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Ryokeen

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Everything posted by Ryokeen

  1. Ryokeen
    Most motor shafts are D shaped so 2 maggot screws won't do much, might even make it worse. Think of it that way, the side that got the hole for the screw is also lighter as it got the hole. The tiny imbalance of the weight of the screw vs the material that would be there in the adapter is neglectable. That's why you screw on the motor and why the motos have longer shafts. Also the + shape in the adapter is nice and Zene does it like that, but when i talked to some cnc operators they told me that it's actually not easy to make with the depth of 8mm(1 stud). They suggested either use electrode erosion(expensive) or use another shape. That's why my metal wheelhub adapters have an axle part. The lego axle to axle adapters are actually quite strong, i use them in my main driveshaft to connect metal axles and not one broke so far. All in all nice work so far :)
  2. Ryokeen
    That's a 3mm fibre optic cable for diy projects. A bit more milky because it's one that has a certain amount of light going out along the cable. Not the tightest fit with lego pins(as they have 3.12 something mm diameter) but worked well in my Delorean. And i assume it's a lot cheaper than anything from lego (around 8€ per meter)
  3. Ryokeen
    Good thing is, the fibre optics cables look like they can be easily replaced by 3rd party parts. In case one needs other lenghts, or they get damaged.
  4. Ryokeen
    Correction: You can only change any two wires to change direction on a sensorless brushless motor. On sensored ones that will probably blow the esc and damage the motor. The other point is btw valid for any RC model, regardless if it's brushed or brushless, nitro or gas. Today that mostly doesn't happen as receivers/esc have some protection in place in the case that the signal is lost. Old AM transmitters/receivers didn't have such a protection(also they had more interferrence from other signals as there was no encoding) means if you turned of the transmitter the receiver often did random things as it might pick up a very weak signal on the used frequency.
  5. Ryokeen
    Valid point but even with 3D printed parts you tend to print more and more specialized parts. I wanted to see how close i can get to onroad hobby grade RC-cars with using a minimal amount of aftermarked/custom parts. what i did here is more of a proof of concept and it allows me to make any chassis i want but still having proper driven and steered axles along with all bearings. And with the speeds i can drive that thing it actually shows very well how durable and versatile lego technic is. I only use screws for the shock absorber and wheelhub mount as there is just no other way. Apart from that the whole chassis holds only with pins and interlocking parts. And it holds very well, nothing came loose so far. Btw, that experiment does not contain a single 3D printed part :D
  6. Ryokeen
    First, on most RC cars the supsension is mounted ontop of the base chassis plate, that sets the overall diffs a bit higher. Then a lot of rc cars actually don't have one straight driveshaft, but 2 driveshafts going to the front and back dif from a center dif and they go down a bit. Next it's about scale, in my current car i use tamiya parts that are for 1:10 scale cars. Even there if the lower suspensionarm is on level with the bottom of the chassis you have the typical 5 stud high double whishbone supspension with the driveshaft in the center. That means even if the center driveshaft is on the same level, you can use a 36 gear meshing with a 12 thooth pinion. What some cars do(and what i did) is acutally having a cutout at that position in the base chassis plate. So far what i've seen is that Rc cars that don't use an enclosed gearbox(motor to driveshaft) have such a cut out or use smaller gears with a different thooth pitch(mod 0.5 or dp68) and manage to stay on level with the diffs that way. Rc cars that have an enclosed gearbox either have little connections going down to the diffs OR they are in another scale, means the ratio of the car to the motor is different, which along with bigger diffs, gives more vertical space.
  7. Ryokeen
    Yes i do, tried without a last year and even 2 buwizz buggy motors on 3s started to melt axles and holes, so decided to avoid that. More info here: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/198381-rc-bricks-hybrid-car/
  8. Ryokeen
    @Lixander nice to hear that it works now, so it was just reversed. Weird but well at least it works. With DC motors(2 Wires) and brushless(3wires) as long as the brushless is sensorless, you can just swap the cables for hard wire forward/reverse. The Geekservo died cause you switched the Signal cable with the negative polse cable :D so there was power applied, not good. About the punch setting i use 75% but might go lower as full throttle doesn't have enough grip anyways. Also to my suprise, 2 x 36tooth(at least from cada) sanded down a bit and connected with 2k resin hold up very well. No wear so far, but i tried my best to enclose the motor pinion to main shaft gears and lubed them. And as we use a very similiar motor, that's what i archieved today with full throttle on a parking lot : But i think without ballbearings in the wheelhubs, the parts might melt quickly.
  9. Ryokeen
    @Krzychups Hmm if the gearbox shaft is D shaped(so with one side more flat) you would just have an adapter that has an 1 stud axle hole on one side and on the other side a 1 stud 6mm hole with a place for a maggot screw. The screw presses on the flat part of the shaft and thus locks it. Problem might be that for 3D printed, it might need to be thicker than 1 Stud or it might break.
  10. Ryokeen
    Did but want to print some other stuff aswell an i'm not sure yet what will fit, so i might need some more prototypes.
  11. Ryokeen
    For that type of motor the first 2 digits are the diameter and the 2nd 2 digits is the lenght. Actual brand is a Robitronic Razer Ten Combo The 36xx and brushed 540 motors(not sure about others) got the nice property that their mounting holes are made for m3 screws with a distance almost perfectly matching 4 studs. So i use something like that and anchor the axles with the chassis. But i will switch to a 3D printed adapter once i bought a 3D printer and know how to work with it :D
  12. Ryokeen
    ONe reminder, as soon as you put metal gears on metal gears, you need to lube them, especially on high rpm. Plastic on metal should be fine, but still some try lube never hurts(or use dry chain lube)
  13. Ryokeen
    3652 size, about timing, no clue :D i know what it is, but i think the motor i use doesn't have an adjustable timing. The motor cutting down in RPM every few secs is a bad sign. What kind of ESC are you running ? My motor needs at least an 50A ESC
  14. Ryokeen
    Maybe the gearing is to low(so you need more reduction) for 94mm tires. Or the motor itself isn't working properly. I had a quick run with a SkyRC GPS logger(but only with 3wheel drive..one axle broke) on a 3250kv with 7.6:1 reduction and 82mm gears. 40km/h is easy to reach at ~ 3/4 throttle. Since yours is almost the same kV either the motor got issues as it should not get hot at all(mine never went over hand warm after a full 5200mah 2s LiPo). Or the ESC isn't working well. But motor to warm is either to much load on it, or something is blocking/timing is off.
  15. Ryokeen
    @Lixander Looking good and damn i need a 3D printer for a proper and sealed motor mount. Doing an enclosed gearcase with lego only is..clumsy. Btw. did the pinion gear help ?
  16. Ryokeen
    Could also be the esc or the size in general. I use a 4-pole 3652 motor and that one is pretty smooth even for a sensorless one.
  17. Ryokeen
    So my little wip/prototype that will be used for a shooting mechanism with compressed air. A quick release valve that can be operated with a servo(lego, cada, geekservo). The requirements were that one direction closes the valve and the other opens it while returning to the neutral position of a servo should not alter the state of the valve itself. That was to prevent strain on the motors and not have to spend battery life on a closed valve during pressure buildup. Also the opening is only triggered by the servo, but the rubberband does most of the jop, so it works equally well with different servo speeds and opens faster then a servo moves. The valve itself works by tube squeezing but with rolling 1L beams to lessen the wear and make the valve close easier. Little demo video( no idea why it won't embedd): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifIEb_PFvII
  18. Ryokeen
    Depending on the metal part you want to connect(i assume it's some axle/driveshaft) you could try to mill an already available metal lego compatible axle to the needed diameter, like 3.2mm. You wouldn't get a a full round shape but that shouldn't matter much if you connect them via common RC shaft conectors(metal sleve with maggot screws).
  19. Ryokeen
    That looks like a cada part. 3L Liftarm with pins at the end. Cada has them in a couple of lenghts same for the 4L flip-flop beams.
  20. Ryokeen
    The looks, that's it.
  21. Ryokeen
    @Krzychups For the planetary gearbox, keep in mind that differentials also add up to the overall reductions. With most lego diffs that's another 28:20/22:14/28:12 reduction on the drivetrain. So double planetary gearbox might be to much as then you need higher kV again and it might be better to get more torque with the planetary wheelhubs than with such an early reduction right after the motor. You mean from the motors shaft to the first set of gears on the reduction stage ?
  22. Ryokeen
    @aFrInaTi0n watchout they might be drift tires :D
  23. Ryokeen
    @Didumos69 nice improvement, should at least keep the axles alive longer. I use a couple of them(and other parts from them) myself and i'm very pleased.
  24. Ryokeen
    Nice an clean chassis, with from what i can see, minimal custom parts to make it work well. I'm impressed how much tech you got cramped into that scale, i always need way to much space. Hat's off And yea sadly it seems such MOCs don't get that much attention, but honestly Lego should buy out your RCDeck and make proper small scale RC cars. Some of us experiment with custom electronics, rc components and such but yours seem to fit well into the building blocks, plug and play mentaly
  25. Ryokeen
    @Lixander yeah that adapter looks like the hole is a bit to big. The adapter is intended as a sleve where you put the screw through the pinion and through the adapter(the hole) pressing onto the flat part of the motor shaft. So a bit bigger hole in the adapter won't be a problem and tightly screwed and with a drop of locktite that won't come off. Unless your adapters got 2 holes, you just mounted them wrong ;)
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