pow

as we're in finetuning mode.... Is it perhaps a good idea to move the rotor blades outwards by one stud? So that there is a larger hypothetical total area over the entire rotor? It is easily possible with the current hub design.

Hi @trabidoni, nice creations you share. I use deepl.com for translation ...most of the time to be honest. But this greeting is hand written. And yes lego is very expensive in my opinion. And designing in 3D is just great fun. Do you use rebrickable for sharing/selling your creations? Best wishes

Ahoy captain.

Hi @apemax i can confirm that instruction maker isn't working on wine. 'tried some other wine versions like lutris-fshack and proton but none of them fixed that problem. I can imagine that some other switches (there are a lot in lutris) may be helpful. Or fiddling with some libs in wine? Best wishes Marco

motorized curtains? no way! and that you managed to use liftarms and technic stuff everywhere (except a few spots) for the exterior is very consistent.

@aFrInaTi0n first: I really like the videos you make. Producing content is not easy. And you even managed to create a unique style. second: i have tested the stepped servo and it really has 3 or 4 steps between center position and max rotation (90°). The positions between 0° and 90° are also somehow weird. They don't follow any logical pattern. Albeit that issues the servo is working properly. But you have to use the new MK (Black Logo) App, a newer Batterybox and the newest stepped Servo. I can imagine, that a lot of people tried the Stepped Servo with the old (Blue Logo) App(maybe) and/or an old Box? In my opinion MouldKing is not communicating very well what they are doing/planning. Oh, i made a very(!) boring video while testing the servo... If you're brave enough to watch germon dudes. The Steinchen-Werkstatt explanes the visual difference between the three generations of stepped servos from MK in this clip (Link with timestamp):

i like how minimal it looks (small builds quickly look overloaded). Great work! BTW: i heard some crack noise when steering. Could something like that https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32054 (used as a slipping clutch) help with that noise?

Holy Bimbam! BTW: https://rebrickable.com/colors/ has a list to. ...as I have just learned.

I think Jurss' idea to install larger wheels was very smart. And Jundis: looking over the drive train again helped clear up a construction site that had been giving me a bellyache for a while. Thanks for your ideas. What do you think, doesn't it already look quite usable? Unfortunately, 42110 delivers only 2 black Technic disks. The rims on the front wheels look a bit puny.

I haven't read all the posts now to be honest, so apologies if this has already been answered.... Mould King meanwhile produces a proportional servo. Since I have only tested it with MK boxes so far, I cannot say whether the servo is Lego PF compatible. But I assume that it is. Cheers :)

@Void_S you're kidding?! Why Lego, why? ;)

24 Hours Race Car (42039) also had some green parts. What I miss about the Monster Trucks are gears - at least two would be nice. if this stuff had at least one tiny little technic function (I don't know e.g. wagging the tail or opening a door or the mouth a bit) then they would be perfect and inspiring to kids. I mean in the end it's still technic. Just my opinion.

the bodywork looks very organic. The steering on the trailer is ingenious! Do you calculate the torque vectoring based on the speed?

Oh i missed the car when it came out on thursday... I like your clean art style. The steering is a 1x4 Technic brick with ball-pins and rockers connected to it? And it's steered by a pin i guess? best wishes

Hi Tomik, just to get a feeling for the space left i have this question: Is the battery box already integrated? It looks like the piece in front of the wings, behind the cabin. does one of the motors fit on top of the battery box?

The tail rotor is massive. But I think it's cool what functions you squeeze into the small rotor! The cockpit looks nice and tidy. The whole thing is brilliant. And the wheeled stretcher aka transport bed has changed compared to the video. Very detailed now.

yep, i was amazed at how well pushrod configurations work. I had tested a configuration with 32005a Technic Link as the rocker. That looked incredibly good. The suspension also felt very direct. Disadvantage: It consumes a little more space.

@Jurss that is a really good question. The wheel somehow works and there isn't much to choose from. But why not trying to open up the fender a bit to support larger tires as well?! I just bought 4x tire 35578 with 37x14mm. This is the only tire that still somehow makes sense based on the shape. Everything else is too big or too wide. And if this tire fits, then any smaller tire will fit as well. So everyone can decide for themselves which tire should be mounted. I've created two renders - for size comparison. Tire 35578 is the one mounted as rear wheel. Your comment was very helpful Jurss. Hopefully I get the tire baked in. You people are awesome!

The video quality is awesome. Á propos quality: The most important detail... There was a (some?) person who patiently taped all the road markings on the floor. Respect for that! I ask myself if there could be some topic for groups to promote their events. Maybe with some rules like adding maximum one promotional photo and/or video and maximum 5 sentences to describe the event. Or does something like that exist? ...sorry a noob question :) Best wishes

@gyenesvi Ah you are speaking of "42099 C model 'Beasty'" at rebrickable?. Did you use the rocker configuration to get more travel into your suspension or a softer spring - or both? BTW: i tested some other configurations but only this survived in a backup file, It looks slightly more like your configuration and worked pretty well (the rocker pushes the long end of a 2x4 L-shaped liftarm which itself pushes the shock absorber with the short end). oh yes, as soon as you try to build to scale, the problems start. With the small car here, I took the liberty of building a racing version or hot(!) hatchback for this reason. Because of the differential, the rear axle is much too wide to pass as an everyday car. Hi @Jundis thank you for the introductory kind words. I know this kind of communication as giraffe language. A very great and non-violent way to communicate. You have a good eye for details as I find. And I am grateful for your criticism. Let's put it this way: decisions have been made Because what I find clean, may seem ridiculously untidy to someone else. Here is a photo of an earlier very untidy state of this suspension and the whole car itself. Jundis, you mentioned the lower parts of the swing arm. They are one of the oldest parts of the construction. i haven't touched them for a while. Possibly I can rearrange the area. But it depends heavily on the "housing" for the differential. Which is build completely out of 2 types of axle-pin-connnectors. The idea to hide the shock absorber came up because I find the colors of the parts too flashy. they make the build look too busy. In a very early attempt I tried to integrate them as a B-pillar. but that didn't work because the spring effect was zero. In the end they ended up in the roof, since there is a supporting structure under the roof anyway. Another reason is that there is simply no room to put them elsewhere. Here is a photo of the left C-pillar. It folds way inward. And the battery box consumes a lot of space too. As i wrote i'm very thankful for your hints on the build. I will definitely keep an eye on the Swing arm design. Since I haven't looked at optimization potential there for a while. And if you have the feeling it could be cleaned up, others may think that as well. Best wishes

Hi i'm working on a feature loaded 80's style hot hatchback, because... Brick builded cars have always been super popular. But somehow the developers usually try to reproduce real mechanics. In my opinion it sometimes would be more fun if the function would follow the form. Like in the Batmobile 76139, for example, where the front wheels don't move back and forth through the fender when steering. They rotate on the spot. I asked myself: can I do something like that? Can I build a super compact car without sacrificing features? So I challenged myself with the task of building a 1:18 scale car, based on parts from the Land Rover 42110. The following functions should be included: - manual and motorized version - manual version with hand of god steering - motorized version uses 2 M-motors (one each for steering and drive) - rear wheel drive - swing arm suspension at the rear axle - differential - individually sprung front wheels (rubber band) - Virtual pivot steering like in the mentioned Batmobil (Step 100 in the 200MB large instruction https://www.lego.com/cdn/product-assets/product.bi.core.pdf/6362924.pdf) - all doors, hood and tailgate can be opened The Result so far looks pretty clean and simple i think. You can imagine it took me a while to reach this state. For example, to make room for a 3x4x8 bricks sized battery box like the BuWizz 2.0, the spring had to go under the roof. The suspension looks pretty good, i think. And hopefully hides invisibly under the roof. Wohoo!! Oh and you can't imagine how long it took to develop this simple looking thing like the drivetrain-differential combination in such a tiny package not influencing other sections of the car too much. Mantra: if it looks simple it took some time to develop. And what i have learned so far is that building on tiny space means, changing a single part can lead into a rebuild of large areas around. That was super frustrating sometimes. I now have the greatest respect for people who fill such gaps with any complex mechanics. My car is simple compared to stuff you people here on eurobricks often(mostly?) show. What do you think? Best wishes :)

@gyenesvi i expected to find a CNC-Version of this part. The Lego version is stable enough to withstand jumping. The material was abraded due to rotation. In my opinion a well lubricated CNC version would be perfect. But you guessed it: there doesn't exist something like this. i would address this problem by putting a lego axle in two ball bearings. Here are a few quick designs. The white round thingies at the red axle-pin-connectors should mimic two tiny ball bearings. The rest is known stuff. The blue connectors are placeholders. They are to suggest that the red connectors are somehow held. It is just a stupid idea. No working concept. The pictures are inspired by this photo: Source: https://www.1000steine.de/de/gemeinschaft/forum/?entry=1&id=309567 PS: another Link with nano bearings for trains:

What i have learned from this topic is that geek servos are meant for RC. I thought they have to be used with Lego PF. But @FriedlS has some interesting point: The buggy motors produce a lot of heat. If that heat is able to escape within the cables into the (melting) plug. This could worsen the heating issues even more. So air-streaming the plug and cables might be clever. @2GodBDGlory That could also be a good question to start a new topic with: How to keep buggy motors cool?... @DrJB the chart was copied from philohome. It's mentioned somewhere in the comments. Best wishes and a good start into the week.

May be doing a 2nd Version with reinforced wheel mount? ...if possible. Are there any (technical) museums interested in such a thing? BTW: the color scheme is cool!

@2GodBDGlory that's a good idea. But i can't help that much more on that topic. my knowledge ends exact here. but for general amusement I dug up this old topic about melted plastic.