2GodBDGlory

I suppose they could use those, but my guess is that it not durable enough for an official set--those flex axles can pop out at the ends relatively easily. Also, it wouldn't be as realistic, since all Wranglers since 1997 have had coil springs all around. Either way, though, would make a cool set! This is probably my favorite 2021 set we have seen yet!

In situations where width is not a problem, one could try to keep grime out by covering the hub with a part 2695

Yes, I doubt that there will be an engine or any sort of drivetrain. While this would be great, and is certainly possible in a fan model, I would expect the suspension to be prioritized in this model, being an off-roader and all. Both drive and suspension would be best, but if it comes down to one or the other, I would prefer the suspension. After all, there really isn't much technical complexity in an undriven piston engine, but it is at least moderately challenging to get dual live axles in a vehicle this size.

Bigger Ford Focus RS This is a small, performance-oriented car, but with some minor complexity. About this creation This is a fast, small model of Ford's hot hatch. Aesthetics: It looked awful. There are LED headlights. Drive: It is driven by two L-motors geared 1:3. One motor controls the right rear wheel, and the other, the left rear wheel and the front two when AWD is engaged. This is done by sliding a wedge belt wheel on an axle to connect the front wheels. Steering: There is simple servo steering. Drift Mode: By switching to RWD and releasing the power from the inside rear wheel right after I started steering, I could get a bit of drift. This is to mirror the Drift Mode on the real car. There is a YouTube video at: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/big-ford-focus-rs Smaller Ford Focus RS Here is an absolutely tiny car, with great performance! About this creation This car was made as a challenge to make a car using these tiny wheels. I also built the whole thing easily in under 24 hours! It has RWD using two L-motors at a 1:5 ratio, steering with a Servo motor, a battery jammed on top, and a couple weighted bricks at the back to keep the rear from hopping up when accelerating. The body was simple, light, and looks decent. I was very happy to be (barely) able to make it in its characteristic blue. This thing was a blast to drive, and even drifted better than my bigger Focus, despite the latter's specialized drift mode! I have a YouTube video at: [EDIT] I was so pleased with this model's performance that I built about three other models at similar scales with similar drivetrains. In my opinion, light weight, medium power is often more fun than high weight, high power. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/small-ford-focus-rs Land Rover Defender Aesthetics: They ain't great, but I think a perfect, beautiful body wouldn't be in keeping with the Defender's rugged spirit, anyway! Drive:There is one XL motor on each axle, that first does a 36:12 (3:1) ratio, then another 3:1 in the portal axles, for a total of 9:1 Steering: There is an L-motor geared 9:1 on the front axle steering it. Suspension: There is a long-travel live axle in both the front and the rear, suspended with rubber bands to make it lower friction. It was very soft, leading to rollovers aplenty! The model was good Off-Road and fun to drive. I have a video of it at: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/land-rover-defender 1:8 Porsche 918 Spyder This car is intended to improve again on my previous best 1:8 supercar, my Ford GT. It has eight RC functions, plus a few manual ones. About this creatio Aesthetics: I think this car looks better than most of mine, but I am still not a master at bodyworks. There are LED headlights, which can be switched on and off using a discreet switch in the central console. Opening Stuff: The hood opens with a discreet lever in the cabin, and uses two hard shocks to allow it to pop up nicely. There is also a little front trunk, with a helmet, a spare shirt, and a toothbrush! The doors have locks. The rear engine cover can open as well. Interior: The vehicle has my most complete interior ever, with black on the floor, front, back, and doors of the car. The steering wheel works. The parking brake works, there is a speed indicator, and the seats are adjustable. There is another discreet switch, this time at the bottom of the wall behind the passenger seat, which turns the car on and off. Suspension: There is fully independent suspension using torsion bars, rubber bands, and optional hard shocks (More on them later). All that spring power is needed because of this car’s immense weight! The suspension has Camber angle, Castor angle, and Kingpin inclination on all wheels. Steering: A Servo motor steers, with Ackermann geometry, and a working steering wheel. Rear Wheel Steering: A separate M-motor slides a unique coupling at the rear of the car to allow the rear wheels to hook up to the front steering. It is geared down to keep the rear wheels from turning as much, as in real life (Mine is barely noticeable, but the real ones only steer 3 degrees, so it is fine) The coupling uses Bohrok eyes and some beams to allow the rear wheels to hook up regardless of the position of the front wheels. Drive: Two XL motors drive all four wheels (AWD with a central differential), and a micro V8 piston engine, which is way too small and too far back. The gearbox was an immovable barrier to the engine. On a happier note, the car could actually drive in all gears without skipping! (There was an occasional skip, especially in seventh, but it was quite good. Also, it was unhappy driving forward in seventh, though reversing was better.) Brakes: An M-motor controls the disc brakes and a working brake pedal. The brakes were too weak—they are something I should improve on my next models. Gearbox: This car has another 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox with speed indicators. It is mostly just a somewhat improved version of the one in my Ford GT, so for more info, check that car out. It has two 4/3+R gearboxes, plus clutches to choose which one is being used (I kept the unrealistic but efficient quad-clutch setup, where I disengage both the input and output of the idling gearbox). It is driven by an XL motor, which had a little simple stepper thing with only two sides to help it snap into real gears. There were also conventional steppers to control the two sides. Suspension Adjustability: An L motor for each axle drove a worm gear or two to lower a hard shock per wheel onto the suspension to offer some extra stiffness, which the real car can do. Spoiler raising: An M-motor uses a couple small Linear Actuators to raise the rear spoiler. Spoiler tilting: An L-motor tilts the spoiler, as you could probably learn from the heading. An axle slides through the gear on the top of the spoiler so it can be used in any upward spoiler position. Overall, I am very pleased with this car. It had piles of functions, a nice interior, looked good, and just as important but easier to ignore, all the functions worked well (Except for those brakes, but who needs strong brakes in a vehicle this slow?) There is a video at https://youtu.be/-tzC7DgNZlk IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/porsche-918-spyder Mini Technic/RC truck This is a small off-road truck with a body from a regular RC truck. [EDIT: Disclaimer: I am not suggesting that folks add hobby bodywork all the time. Why build Lego if you don't even want to try bodywork? I just did this once to see how it would work.] About this creation This model was inspired by my brother's new RC truck, and it's removable bodywork. Drive: Two L motors drive all four wheels at a 5/3ish ratio (Really, whatever 3:1 followed by 3:5 is) Steering: There is simple servo motor steering Suspension: There is full live axle suspension--long travel in the front, and shorter in the rear, just because the receiver was in the way. Overall, I think this model was less than exceptional. It wasn't as fast as I hoped, mostly, though I did like the idea, and putting 4WD on a vehicle this small was fun. There is a video of it at: https://youtu.be/rWdjqYxfrcY IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mini-technicrc-truck

Well, I say it is good news if there isn't enough room for independent front suspension! That way, if Lego is going to include suspension, they will have to include a realistic solid axle (either pendular, or, hopefully, live-axle)!

Is there really that much advantage in PU motors over PF ones? It seems like an awful lot of trouble to use the new motors, rather than a classic Buwizz+ PF approach.

I believe that he is talking about the third-party adapters that have been recently released. You can check out this video for details. (Summary: PU extension wires, PF to PU adapters, and PU to PF adapters. They work about as you would expect, but are fairly expensive)

Uh oh... This is the first I have heard of this issue. Is there a discussion about it somewhere?

I seriously respect this model. It takes on a commonly built car, at a commonly built scale, yet manages to create something totally unique! The emphasis on realism in the mechanics and the well-thought out bodywork really make it stand out. I am sure it would be fascinating to watch the live streams, but I simply can't justify the time. Great work!

When I first saw this model, I assumed it would be a pretty-looking racecar model, but instead it has seriously impressive functionality, as well as a good bodywork! There are also a lot of interior details that add to the model. Good work!

Hmm. I don't have a multimeter, but maybe I could borrow one.

That is very impressive! The size is unbelievable, and it looks like it must have been very tedious to build. The audacity of both your project and the historic one are commendable.

I think that there are capacitors (If I remember correctly from grade 10 science, they are the cylindrical components with two leads on the one end?), and I could possibly replace those with ones from a broken V1 receiver I have. They have a different appearance, though, so they may be different between the two versions.

Okay, that makes sense I may have to, thankfully, prices have dropped since I last checked a year or two ago. I think it does this with all batteries, but I am not sure. I can check Thanks for the advice!

I was wondering if I could get any advice on ways I could fix a V2 receiver of mine. I got it from a used 9398 Crawler a few years ago, and ever since I got it, it has had a couple of serious "quirks." The first, and most obvious, one is that the red output only runs Servo motors and LEDs, but no other motors. This is annoying, but since my MOCs usually have at least one Servo, I can work around it. The second problem is that if the drive motor is put under too much stress, the motor slows down as if it had a brake being applied to it, and the receiver starts to emit a squealing sound. If I stop sending IR signals and wait a second or two, the system resets, and I can drive again until the receiver gives up again. Right now I have it in a Quad Bike model with a single Buggy motor for drive, powered from a PF rechargeable box, and it will drive mostly fine on a hard floor, but only for a few seconds on carpet. I have taken the receiver apart and had a look inside, and tried to clean a few things up, but there is no improvement. If anyone has any advice about the cause of this problem, I would appreciate it. I have a soldering iron, and I'm not afraid to use it.

Yep, the Jeep Wrangler absolutely still has two live axles. In North America, at least, the light-duty vehicle world has only four dual-live axle vehicles left: the Ford Super Duty trucks, the Ram heavy duty trucks, the Jeep Wrangler, and the Wrangler's pickup variant, the Jeep Gladiator. It is certainly possible for Lego to fit in the suspension at this scale. See this model of the same car at similar, if not smaller, scale. I certainly hope they include it, since it is a very characteristic feature of the Wrangler. It would be all too easy for them to simplify to a rear-wheel drive car with independent front suspension and a trailing arm rear, as in many other small off-roaders.

I quite like this! Great looks are joined with (presumably) solid performance. My favorite detail is the use of the radar dish on the rear axle to simulate the differential cover! I have often been annoyed that Lego solid axles rarely look like real ones, but that one detail does lots towards improving this!

I did a similar thing a while back, where I just took an old transformer (originally used for charging something or other), cut off the end, and attached the positive and negative ends to the positive and negative plates of a spare AA battery box. I now have it screwed onto the bottom of my desk, as a constant, switchable PF power supply!

Is what you're saying that Servos are drawing power while they are in the extreme positions? If so, it would not be a problem for this gearbox, because the way it works is that it rotates 90 degrees, pushes the gearbox into the next gear, and then returns to center without shifting anything, because it simply ratchets over the gears. By the way, I have since taken inspiration from other builders and made a far more compact and reliable gearbox with the same mechanism that can be used with those Chiron selectors--this old design is a little primitive, I think. Thanks for commenting!

Fascinating video! I am glad I found the patience to watch it. Like you said, the coolest thing is finding the maximum possible power output for a Lego motor. Right now I am working on building a massive pickup truck with an 8-speed automatic gearbox. It has fully electronic control, with a Powered Up hub controlling both drive and shifting, and so I essentially have full control over when the shift points will be. Knowing this, I can fine-tune it to offer me the peak power! Sadly, I don't know if there are any spec charts for PU XL motors yet... Anyways, if nothing else, I discovered the real reason I need to study Calculus: To improve my Technic models! One less sophisticated, but very tough (suitable for a tractor, I suppose) 2-speed automatic can be found here:

Ford GT This is my best 1:8 supercar to date, in my opinion. It has eight independently controlled RC functions, including another 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox. About this creation Aesthetics: The car looks pretty good I think, though not perfect. There are some gaps in the back; those are just there because they are there on the real car. There are LED headlights, and the engine cover opens. Interior: The interior has three-way adjustable seats, which can slide forward and backwards and tilt the bottom and top parts independently. The steering wheel works, and the dashboard and central console are recreated from the real car. There is a speed indicator hidden inside the small black tire on the central console. Suspension: There is full independent suspension using two hard shocks per wheel (The hard shocks have grey tops) It is a little saggy. There is camber angle on all four wheels, and kingpin, castor, toe-in, and ackermann geometry on the front axle. Drive: The car is driven by two XL motors, through the rear wheels and the gearbox. It also drives a rear V6 piston engine. Steering: There is steering with a Servo motor. There are fancy angles mentioned in the suspension section, and a working steering wheel. Doors: Both butterfly doors can be opened using their own PF M-motor. There are manual locks to keep it in place when shut. Brakes: The disc brakes are powered by two small pneumatic cylinders, one on each axle.The discs are made from wedge belt wheels with small rubber track inserts in them, and the calipers employ two rubber axle joiners per wheel. The pneumatics are powered by a PF L-motor through an Autovalve, where it pumps and switches simultaneously, and the switching is controlled by the motor's direction. Gearbox: There is another 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox in this car. It is totally updated and now uses Chiron shifters. The gearboxes are now set on the sides, with the clutches in the middle, allowing for an efficient use of space. Formerly, both gearboxes were always running, as even when gearbox A's clutch was disengaged, it was still driven from it's output. Now, there are not only clutches on each gearboxes input, but also on the output, so as to maximize efficiency. There was a speed indicator hidden in the black tire in the central console, and the gearbox was driven by an L-motor. Track/Street modes: Just like the real car, my model can be switched from Street mode to Track mode. In street mode, the suspension is raised and the spoiler is down. In Track mode, the car is lowered and the spoiler is raised. Also like the real car, lowering the suspension hardens it up a lot (Mostly because it is only bending pieces at that point) This system is driven using another L-motor and pneumatic autovalve. The front axle uses a new really big cylinder, and the rear axle and spoiler each use an old large cylinder. Spoiler tilt: The spoiler can be tilted using a M-motor. It drives a worm gear which drives a 20T gear. This gear is the one in my collection that is the loosest on axles, which is important, since an axle connected to the spoiler must slide through it. Overall, I am very pleased with this model. It looked pretty good (For one of my cars!), functioned pretty well, and actually drove happily sometimes in most gears! As far as I know, it is also the first Technic supercar to use all eight RC channels! I think it is my personal best model! Please ask in the comments if you have any questions about how it works. You can see my (amateurish) video at this link: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/ford-gt Hummer H2 This is a very large Off-Roader, with the emphasis on functions, not performance. About this creation This is my first big, functional Off-Roader in ages, it seems, so I am glad to make this model. It isn't my most refined model, but it looks OK, and has interesting functions, and drives! Aesthetics: The model has a blocky body, like the real one does. There are opening doors, a swing-out spare tire, the rear liftgate, and a hood that I am ashamed to say opens the wrong way. (I discovered this late in the build process, and I was so short on grey (And just wanted to be done) that I left it that way) There is a simple interior, but with FIVE seats! Drive: There is 4WD with two XL motors. It could drive well in at least some gears. Steering: A Servo motor steers the front wheels. That's as fancy as it is. Winch: There is a winch driven by a PF L motor through a 24:1 worm ratio. I used a little trick to be able to manually slide an axle through the 24T gear and out of the winch piece (Which allows axles to slide through it). This allowed me to pop the hood, slide the thingie, quickly extend the winch, then reconnect it and power it back in. Adjustable suspension On Wikipedia I learned that the H2 has an "Adjustable rear suspension". I didn't know whether that meant height-adjustable or hardness-adjustable. I went with height, using a PF M-motor, a worm drive, and small levers connected to the rear shocks. The height difference was minimal. Suspension: There was front independent suspension, sprung using torsion bars (Like the real H2), and also rubber bands for extra stiffness. There was a rear live axle with two hard shocks. The front was longer travel than the rear. Wow. The pictures of the suspension are pitiful. Gearbox: There was a simple 4-speed sequential gearbox using the new Chiron shifters. It was shifted by an M-motor tucked in the front, driving some U-joints, which drove a stepper (Yes, that is a modified white knob wheel in the picture. In my defense, one of the knobs broke off naturally in the line of duty, so it isn't like I savagely mutilated a flawless element) There was a simple speed indicator. (Again, I gotta take more pictures. It also might not hurt to let the model survive at least 24 hours before I rip it to shreds and start on the next project. That way I could actually take MORE!) Drive Mode Selector: There is a fancy dancy drive mode selector that allows you to choose among 2WD High, 4WD High, 4WD Low, and 4WD Low all differentials Locked. This is controlled using a PF L-motor with a stepper. This stepper turns a longitudinal axle that controls the five variables. In each position it pushes an exact combination of variables, while the others are kept in their default position by rubber bands. I hope this makes sense. Overall, I think this was a cool model. I liked the drive mode thing, and the winch disconnect. It looked fine, drove decently, and was fun to make. The weight really hurt the performance. There is a video at: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/hummer-h2 Hennessey Velociraptor / Ford Raptor This is a model of the Ford Raptor and the Hennessey-modded version of it, the Velociraptor, which has an extra axle. About this creation This model is meant to be small, and a good Off-Roader. Hennessey Velociraptor This six-wheeled truck had lots of torque and good floatation for off-roading. It really could have used more ground clearance, though. Aesthetics: The model looks decent, and I think the FORD grill looks OK. It is pretty simple, but everything opens that should. The interior is very basic, lacking even a steering wheel. Suspension: There is front independent suspension with two hard shocks per wheel. The rear suspension is a live axle suspended with flex axles-- it was surprisingly responsive! There were also pendular bogies on the back, using small turntables Steering: There is a basic Servo front steering affair. Drive: Two XL motors drive all six wheels at a 9:1 ratio. There is a heavy duty universal joint in the back, and there are no differentials involved. Ford Raptor This was a modified one with a different rear suspension, which drove at a 1:1 ratio. It was a much worse off-roader, but was still [EDIT: The end of this sentence has been lost to history.] I have a YouTube video at IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/hennessey-velociraptor--ford-raptor 1:8 Honda Civic Type R This is my latest 1:8 supercar. It has a couple functions that are new to me. About this creation Aesthetics: I think the car looks pretty good, which is probably because it is a simpler looking car than, say, a Ford GT. [EDIT: Really? It may be simpler than a Ford GT, but I would go so far as to say that the CTR is notoriously hard to build, with all its random angles.] The windshield isn't raked enough, though. Opening stuff: The hood, doors, hatchback, fuel cap, glove box, and center console open, and there is a 60/40 folding rear seat. The front doors have a fancy auto-locking-when-you-shut-it lock, but the rear ones are simpler. Suspension: There is front independent suspension with four hard shocks and a torsion bar. This axle has castor, camber, and kingpin angles. There is rear multilink suspension with camber angle. (Dear me. I forgot to take bodyless pictures!) Drive: There is a transverse motor/engine/gearbox/differential setup for this front-drive car. It drives well in the lower five gears, and [EDIT: The end of this sentence is gone, too!] Steering: There is servo steering with Ackermann geometry and a working wheel. It cannot steer far, though. Brakes: There are four wheel disc brakes, as usual, powered by an L motor. There are also fake brakes that stay level when the wheels turn, like the ones in my Bugatti Chiron. Noisemaker: There is a M-motor geared 1:9 running an inline 2 piston engine to get some growls, like the rear one's louder exhaust setting. Adjustable hardness suspension: There is a long, skinny pneumatic cylinder on the rear axle and two small cylinders on the front axle, that harden the suspension when extended, and soften it when detracted. An M-motor powered an auto-compressor, like Sariel's design, to pump whenever the air pressure got too low, and another M-motor flipped a pneumatic valve. Gearbox: There was a six-speed sequential gearbox controlled using three Chiron shifters carefully synchronized, and a six-speed Overall, it looked good, had fun opening stuff, and drove well. I am happy with the gearbox, but the steering and adjustable suspension weren't the best. Sadly, I forgot to take some pictures I really should have. There is a Youtube video at: IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/honda-civic-type-r

Do you think my RC setup would modulate speed by varying the voltage? If so, I could block the trigger to prevent it from exceeding 9V.

I have tried that, but it is mostly just a very bulky solution, that couldn't really fit in the light, compact models I wanted to use it in.

Cool! I see that you used the steering module from the old RC sets, along with a PF Servo! That is a very unusual part usage these days, but it appears effective! As for the radio-control, I have a little experience with that sort of thing. My brother got a Foxx S911 RC truck a while back, and, despite a relatively low cost, it can allegedly hit 50 km/h! I was looking for some higher performance Lego stuff, so I spent about $50 CAD (more like $35 USD) to buy the complete electrical system from that truck from some replacement part outlet, and then modded the stuff to put it in Lego models. The main problem is that the original motor has way too high RPMs, so it will always destroy the first axle I attach to it, before I have a change to gear it down. Because of this, I am thinking of running my two Chinese Buggy motors off of that RC system (at 9.6V), with the original Servo, sometime.

Speaking of tires, from what I hear (I haven't seen the images), the small tractor tires could be absolutely perfect for the Monster Jam trucks. Could they find their way onto them in the end?