2GodBDGlory

It does seem that way. It seems that the big-selling themes get new minifigure molds en masse, but Technic doesn't get much. This does have pluses though, because too much specialization can stunt creativity. (I do still get excited about our new parts, though. Why can't Lego make a few more clutch gears, and a 32T gear?)

Neat! The size is the biggest turnoff for me, but you did make a small one too (presumably less smooth), so I guess you have all the bases covered! I like to see some innovation in automatic gearboxes--I feel that this is a ripe field for innovation.

Hello, As I have mentioned before, I have made many models in the past, before I started using Eurobricks. I formerly posted my stuff on MocPages, but when that site ceased to function (for me, at least), I started posting on here. Fortunately, before the site went down, I backed up all my posts in a Word document. I am unwilling to put in the massive amount of effort to adapt the format of around 70 posts or so to Eurobricks, but I can easily enough copy and paste my MocPages descriptions onto here, and add images to BrickSafe. So, I will probably gradually start adding my old stuff onto this page. Naturally, a lot of the stuff is unimpressive, since I have learned a lot over the years, and even the technically impressive stuff is probably ugly, but at least I can reference past models of mine intelligently, and there may be some posts of interest to viewers. Technic Dodge Challenger Delete | Edit Add a comment Zoom in My first model to be posted on here is a Dodge Challenger, at about 1:12 scale. It has four motorized functions using Power Functions. About this creation This model has front independent suspension with two hard shocks per wheel and a rear live axle with one hard shock per wheel. A PF M motor steers the front wheels using a worm gear, while an XL motor drives the rear wheels through a six-speed sequential gearbox and a U-joint. A M motor shifts the gearbox (Which is similar in working principle, if not construction, to Sheepo's), using a worm gear and a rack. There is also a speed indicator. A PF L motor drives the rear brakes from atop the rear axle by rotating beams that pull other beams to press rubber axle joiners against the brake disks. It also turns a PF switch to turn off the drive motor and keep it from stalling. The doors can open, but there is sadly no interior, as the gearbox was simply too big. Even though this is my first MOC to be posted on here, I have been building Technic models for over a year, and I will likely post them over time. IMAGES AT https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/112-dodge-challenger Honda Civic Type R This model, a Technic Honda Civic Type R, which is one of my favorite Japanese cars, has four motorized functions. About this creation This car has full independent suspension (My first well-scaled car with it: the Civic has small wheels in real life, thus meaning a bigger car than my others with the same Lego wheels)with castor and camber angle. It also has motorized steering using a M-motor and a worm gear, Rear-wheel drive (I later learned it should have been Front-wheel drive) using an XL motor, a four-speed sequential gearbox with a speed indicator using an L-motor, and an interesting piston engine. The piston engine can run slowly using just the drive motor, or faster using a PF E-motor through an adder. LEDs also go on in the engine bay when you start the E-motor. Now, back to the gearbox. It is for the most part your standard two-beam controlled four-speed, similar to Sariel and countless others's but with a stepper. However, it also has two beams that are pushed forward and backward at the front for the speed indicator. The hood can open manually. The two doors on each side can be opened using one dampened shock absorber for each side (The front and rear doors on the same side are linked). This model, in my opinion looked and functioned pretty well, but there was no fourth seat because the gearbox's stepper took that space. I should also mention that this model is actually older than my Dodge Challenger, because I am now posting older MOCs. Also, after I finished this model I got more PF, so my later creations are more complex. I hope you enjoy this! P.S. I was unable to post my video because it gave me something about a fatal error and a 30 minute timeout. Maybe my video was too long (about four minutes). IMAGES AT https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/112-honda-civic-type-r

Instead of using an O-ring, I often use small plastic parts I cut out of the bottom of a 4L ice cream tub. I cut a strip, punch a bunch of holes in it, and cut several segments with holes in the middle.

I have been experimenting with several different designs, which I will list here: 1. 2L worm with 12T gears, 3-speed. This gearbox has very weird spacing, and friction issues 2. 2L worm with 24T gears, 4-speed. This gearbox is way too big 3. 1L worm with 12T gears, 9-speed. Probably too ambitious, the worm skips against the gears sometimes, it requires grease to work well, and it has slightly weird spacing Probably I will go back to the original, simple design, and try to refine it more.

Also, low torque in the drivetrain makes it less likely that your gears are going to skip--most important in complex gearboxes

I just built a little mock-up car, and it revealed some flaws in the gearbox. The tuning was off, so it would only get into third on downhills, but more worryingly, it would often skip, with the worm between the 8T gears. I think I will try to upgrade to 12T gears, which would add strength, and keep the worm firmly seated on a gear more of the time.

No, I have not noticed any problems with torsion. If you did expand it, using a 16L or 32L axle, that could become a problem though, I suppose. I should try that soon. I did use a few different springs, two soft, and one hard, to get the right rate, but perhaps it could be more sophisticated. ^I want to get rid of that box, but I don't know how... I can't see the whole setup clearly, but I did try something similar initially. If I see correctly, this gearbox would cause every other gear to be the reverse of the other ones, because the 8T gears are stuck in different directions by the 12 and 20T gears The 1L worm gears probably would take more load, but they would have a hard time grabbing on the next gear, because they aren't long enough, and they don't slide nicely on axles, which would make shifting less smooth. I agree that it can get stuck in those bushes, but my reckoning was that the one end of the spring setup would get stuck in the worm, but it wouldn't push very hard, because it could just rotate the 1L beam along with the axle. Though on further thought, I guess the bush and worm would always rotate at the same speed, so that wouldn't cause a problem either, and would probably be better, even if only because the axle would be less likely to slide out of the motor.

This gearbox design just came to me last night while fiddling with gears. It uses a worm gear's tendency to slide along axles to create a compact 3-speed automatic gearbox. There is essentially a long axle with a worm gear and several springs from Lego shocks (two soft and one hard). On each side of this axle are longitudinal beams with 8T gears sandwiched between them, which mesh with the worm gear. If the worm is to the motor side of the axle, it directly drives the output through an 8T gear, if the worm is in the middle, it runs a different 8T gear, which drives a 16T gear, which drives a 28T gear, which drives the output, and if the worm is on the far side of the axle, it drives the output through two stages of 16:28 gearing. Half of the 8T gears are actually idlers, and only function to press the worm into the 8T on the opposite side. The shifting happens when the worm gear "decides" that it is easier to not run the output (because it is stressed), and instead inches down the axle against the springs, causing it to mesh with a different gear, at a slower ratio. The video may help you understand how it works. The gearbox is fully functional, but somewhat clunky. It could be expanded to have more speeds, but this would require an axle longer than a 12 (I have ordered a 16L and a 32L, but they aren't here yet), but there might not be much practical benefit, since gears get exponentially lower, and complexity and size increase. It would be interesting to try this relatively compact gearbox in a car, but its space efficiency might be annulled by its mechanical inefficiency, what with the worm gear and all. Please let me know what you think of this gearbox!

Yeah, he definitely went above and beyond expectations. That whole thing with the light brick is just great!

I bought a set of four a while back, at about $10 CAD each. It was painful, but the best option available. Prices may have gone down since, as they tend to do with new parts. Why, back in 2018 the new transmission driving ring extender cost $7ish from Lego. Now it is only about 50 cents!

I suppose it is time for me to toss down my opinion on all this Control + stuff. After all, this is the internet, where everyone gets to post their opinion, even if nobody cares! The system has some interesting functional upgrades over PF, mainly in how it allows for more flexible "servo" motors, and the options offered by the programmability. Plus, the motors are somewhat more powerful, and the bluetooth control gives better range than IR does. Plus, prices are quite reasonable on Bricklink, even if they are stupid from Lego. The main issues are as follows: There are no extension wires, which severely limits flexibility, and we are limited to four outputs per hub, and if you want a smaller hub, you only get two outputs! If If I wanted to recreate my 1:7 Bugatti Chiron Moc with PU, I would have to use at least four hubs, which would be ridiculous! I used only a single rechargeable battery for mine, which took up far less space. This issue is made worse by the fact that there is no way to power two motors from a single output. The touchscreen control has some downsides (getting a phone, setting it up, and poor tactile control), but it allows for plenty of flexibility. Perhaps Lego could cook up a simple remote for those who only need simple control, and leave the touchscreen for the more complicated models. Plus, the motors are bigger! The final downside, which will likely be rectified, is that there is no rechargeable battery. As an alternative to the PU system, I would have much preferred an addition to the PF system, that would still allow for advanced servo functions and programmability. This would require a smart motor, similar to the new L one, and a receiver roughly equivalent to an SBrick, with bluetooth control. Lego would also have to figure out a way to get six leads into a standard PF plug, but only on the bluetooth receiver and smart motor. I looked at the plug, and I think it would be possible. Of course, it is far too late for Lego to change this, so we will just have to hope that Control + improves enough that we can keep the advantages of PF, along with the advantages of PU Thus ends my rant.

Good video as always. I am glad you were able to make it for this set after all! Also, I'm wondering why you changed the name of your YouTube channel?

Okay, now that I look more closely at the images, I can see that.

That is a good-looking model of one of the best attainable sports cars out there! I don't know how much space you have in the car, but if you could power it with two L motors instead of two M motors, you would gain significant power. Good work!

That's great news!

Thanks for posting this review! It might be the only one on the web at the moment, and I especially appreciate your doing this because this may not be a cheap set to open, if unopened ones become hot collectibles! Good job!

Wow! I just checked prices for those PU components on Bricklink, and they are shockingly cheap! I take back some of my former comments (on other threads) about the ridiculous prices. Perhaps someday prices will get low enough that I can try out the system!

In my opinion, the most exciting part released since I got into Technic in 2016 has been the 35188 rotary shifter, because it allows for far simpler sequential gearboxes, without making the build process unduly simpler. However, it has the downside of having fixed geometry, meaning that we cannot build certain gearbox designs. In some scenarios, I find myself wanting different geometries, but Lego will almost certainly never make a slightly different version of the same part! Have any of you ever had problems with this limitation?

I'm just wondering... Has there ever been this much activity on a topic in such a short time? It seems to me that this could be record-breaking!

I'm glad that we can at least have the instructions for this set, if nothing else. I was more likely to try to build it out of my collection that to buy it outright, so I am glad that this set design was not entirely lost.

Wow! That is impressive and complicated! I would have had no idea where to start on a project like that, but I think you did a good job!

Great work! This is a well-engineered, good-looking, and good-performing model of my all-time favorite vehicle!

Also, given the hills the car is climbing in the video, it probably has more torque than is necessary for driving on flat ground.

Wow! The gearbox is impressive, and although it is probably too impractical for realistic model cars, it is fun to see it in this form!