2GodBDGlory

The trouble with that is that it will no longer fit inside an O-frame, so you would have to get creative with your bracing, and probably accept less strength.

Jeep Hurricane This is a complex model of Jeep's coolest concept vehicle ever, one that few have attempted to make out of Technic. (I saw about four or so other models) It is a super cool vehicle because it can turn on the spot, do four-wheel steering, and crab steering. Mine was intended to replicate the many steering modes. Aesthetics: The model I think looks pretty cool, with dual V8s, rugged Jeep looks, and a cool enough color scheme. It wasn't perfect, though, and the bumper things had to be pushed out too far to allow the steering to work. Suspension: The vehicle had full double, wait no TRIPLE wishbone independent suspension (The third wishbone was added later to increase stability. All wheels had portal axles, as well. (I am not sure whether the real one had these, but in the images I looked at, the universal joints seemed to be a bit above the centers of the wheels) Each wheel had one hard and one soft shock. Drive: 2XL motors drove one differential. Because of the interesting way this vehicle works, with all the steering, I only really needed one differential between the left and right drivetrains. There was also a switch that reversed two wheels on one side to allow for skid steering in the on-the-spot mode. Each wheel also had it's own worm gear reduction. It also drove two V8 piston engines, just like the real vehicle. Sadly, the drivetrain turned out so inefficient that it could barely drive. No illusions of off-road prowess here. Steering: Each axle was normally steered by one M-motor using a clutch gear. These gears allowed the vehicle to synchronize itself when switching steering modes. A PF switch allowed me to invert or turn off the rear M-motor, which allowed me to switch between crab, 4 wheel, and front wheel steering. A L-motor also drove 13L racks using new worm gears which pushed the front and rear steering racks forward, disconnecting them from the pinion gear and bringing the fronts of the wheels inward. If you then switched to skid-steer mode, the vehicle would in theory turn on the spot. Sadly, the vehicle was way too weak, and the wheels didn't turn as far inward as they needed to, so it only worked in theory. Overall, it was a fun model, but performance was terrible, which was sad for a vehicle that looks so cool. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/jeep-hurricane Sequential 7+R Dual Clutch Gearbox with speed indicator This gearbox took me all of two weeks to build, but I think it was worth it! It has seven forward speeds and one reverse speed, and can be controlled with a single PF M-motor. There are also two friction clutches, similar to Sheepo's idea in his superb Porsche. There is a complex speed indicator, as well. It cannot really be shifted while driving (Well, every other speed cannot), but it works pretty well. I made full photo instructions of it, which I will hopefully post soon. I am currently working on another version that is longer and skinnier, so as to more easily fit into models between seats. I will try to walk you through how this works. The M-motor on the top drives a worm gear which rotates two 2L beams. These two beams press first one of the sets of cams, then the other. These cams are connected to levers that push axles in, pressing first the slightly slower clutch in, then the faster one. These 2L beams are connected with a chain to a stepper, so that for every full cycle of each clutch, the stepper will snap the two four-speed gearboxes up a gear. Then it repeats with the clutches, and so on. I hope this makes sense to you! This gearbox shifts well, but it is huge, inefficient, and the friction clutches might be able to slip under torque. Still, I am very happy with it. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/old-7r-dct I originally had made instructions for this model and posted them on MocPages, but with the new rotary shifters, this gearbox is quite obsolete, so I won't bother to post it here. Mclaren P1 This is my latest supercar (Oh wait, this is actually a Hypercar!), a 1:8 Mclaren P1! It has six RC functions in total. There is motorized rear wheel drive with 2 PF XL motors connected to a rear V8 piston engine, front steering with a PF L-motor, two motorized butterfly doors with one PF M-motor each, a retractable spoiler using a M-motor and a small linear actuator, and a 7+R dual clutch sequential gearbox (An overhauled version of my previously posted one) using a fourth M-motor. Aesthetics: This car had some of the best, most complicated bodywork I have ever made, [EDIT: Only because my previous models had been even uglier!] yet I am a bit unhappy with the front view, which doesn't look as cool as the real one. Still, it looked pretty good, especially because I was copying from a beautiful car to begin with! I especially like the back view, with striking taillights on the black body! There was also a nicer interior than usual, with a floor, nice seats, and a working steering wheel which could be adjusted up and down. Doors: The model had two motorized butterfly doors, controlled independently using two M-motors. The motors were geared down 24:1 with a worm gear, passed through two U-joints, and then rotated a 5L half-beam with a 6L link on it, connected to the door. They open pretty nicely, but because of the amount of backlash in the system, they slam shut. Also, the motors can't quite pull the doors all the way in, so a bit of manual work is involved. I was still pretty happy with them. Spoiler: The spoiler was operated using a PF M-motor tucked behind the rear wheels and a small linear actuator. It worked pretty well, but I should have taken it apart and switched the 12T and 20T bevel gears after I saw how slow it was. (The last image there, the bodyless one, is missing the motor and a few gears) Drive: Two XL motors drive a V8 piston engine, which drives the gearbox, which drives the rear wheels. Steering: A L-motor under the hood drives a 8:1 worm gear reduction, which drives the 8T gear that runs the rack. It also ran a steering wheel, which could be adjusted up and down.There was Ackermann geometry. Suspension: The model had full independent double wishbone suspension, with castor angle and kingpin inclination on the front wheels, and camber angle on all wheels. (Kingpin and Camber seem practically the same to me. Camber seems to be the wheels tilting like /=\ or /=\, while kingpin seems to be the steering pivot tilting like/=\ or \=/. Thus, normally, including kingpin will automatically include camber. That, at least, is my understanding. [EDIT: I now know the difference between them!] Each wheel had two hard shocks. I was also happy that the car had a rigid enough frame to compress the suspension from almost anywhere! Gearbox: The gearbox was by far the best part of the vehicle, as it was a super complex 7+R sequential Dual-friction clutch setup, driven by a PF M-motor, with a speed indicator. It worked pretty well, but it was huge, and the friction clutches would often slip (I think I will not use friction clutches if I ever build a similar gearbox)(Which I am quite sure I will) I will post this gearbox separately soon, but it is really just a somewhat similar version of my previously posted one, but with the two 4/3+R gearboxes placed in front of each other instead of beside, making it possible to fit it between the seats. There was a (Too) small suitcase under the hood, as well as an on/off switch for the battery. Overall, I was very pleased with this car, except that it struggled to drive. It looked better than usual, had a strong frame and body, and had many advanced functions and refinements. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mclaren-p1 Technic 7+R Sequential Dual-clutch gearbox V2 (Still has speed indicator, but that makes too clunky of a name. Oops, my explanation made it clunkier!) When I was trying to put my older 7+R sequential, I found that I couldn't put it behind the seats because it was too long, or between the seats, because it was too wide. Thus, I built a new version of it, with the two separate gearboxes (4 speed and 3+R) placed in front of each other, rather than beside each other, with the friction clutches behind them. It had somewhat different ratios than the old one, but they are pretty similar. If you want to get an understanding of how this gearbox works, take a look at my older one, since I don't feel like typing it all again, and they have pretty much the same working principle. I have not made instructions for this gearbox, but have instead taken extensive pictures, so if you know what you are doing and really want to, you can probably build it. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/old-7r-dct-long-version

Looks great! I'll have to find some time to try building it soon!

I got impatient and added the battery last night. It works great, with significantly better performance than the (likely tired) AAs I was using. Additionally, the camera battery already has a PF plug soldered onto it, so I have a ready-made way to run PF IR receivers from the same power supply! Yes, I may soon be releasing models with 12 RC functions!

Yeah, you don't want it getting halfway through a downshift, realizing that there is now no load, and then shifting up again! The programming would likely be similar to what Sariel did here: http://sariel.pl/2012/02/nxt-automated-gearbox/

Cool to see the theory behind drift cars! I may have to build another one sometime! One thing I did once to lower traction on the tires was to cut an empty toilet paper roll into four quarters, and then put the cardboard around a 43.2 mm tire!

Neat! Using an XL motor would also add a lot more weight on the axle, working somewhat like the flywheel. I just got some Control+ stuff, and I would love to try to make an electronically controlled 8-speed automatic gearbox, using the drive motors current draw as resistance sensors, and a separate motor for shifting. All I need to do is finish my current MOC, learn how to program, and build it... If the programming allows for it.

Wow! That is very original and interesting! The biggest disappointment for me is that one must find room to install a giant "flywheel" for proper shifting, but it is a fascinating idea, which could probably be extended to a four-speed, in exchange for its simplicity! Good work!

I just got my first PU stuff, and early on my to-do list is to try to do a battery mod. I have an old 7.4V battery from a Nikon camera, which I have used many times in the past to power PF models (Even running two buggy motors off it!) It should easily fit inside the battery bay, and I am confident that I can attach the leads fairly easily, but is there any danger that you guys know of in doing this?

Yes, it is definitely a good thing to have variety in sets, but just because Lego is building more cars doesn't necessarily make them boring. Sometimes they are (See the Porsche 911 RSR set), but others are mechanically awesome (see Bugatti Chiron). But I suppose it is hard to put interesting car functions in smaller scale models. With that part count, I would guess 1:10. Does that mean we will get Ferrari-style rims, functionally similar to the Land Rover ones?

I now watched the video. It is quite different from my design, after all! I like the innovation! Perhaps the same shifting technique could be applied to larger linear gearboxes to get three or four speeds?

Interesting. I haven't watched the video yet, but is it working on a similar principle to my previous sliding-worm 3-speed auto? Obviously yours is more complicated, and probably smoother, but is the idea the same?

No, it cannot. My original plan was to hook it up to the steering system such that when you steered, it would unlock the differential, and then reevaluate whether it should be locked or not. I should have mentioned that in the original post...

This is a design I spent a while developing. Open differentials are obviously poor off-road, and limited-slip differentials are fairly challenging to make work reliably. Manually locking differentials are common and reliable, but I thought it would be interesting to go the extra step and create a differential that automatically senses when a slip situation is occurring, and then locks the differential to stop it. This is what I came up with: Yes, it is huge, even when you realize that the whole assembly with the 7x11 frame is not actually part of the lock. Additionally, there is considerable friction, so between these two factors, it is not at all a good candidate for use in MOCs. However, I think it is interesting just as an engineering exercise. The basic working principle is as follows: There is a differential in the center, with the lock, and the two outputs geared to the two wheels. Then, there is a set of two speed-sensing differentials, one on the right, and one on the left. These differentials have an input directly from the drive motor, and an input from one of the half-shafts between the center differential and a wheel. If the half-shaft is spinning at a normal speed, the differential's remaining output rotates, say, clockwise, but if the half-shaft is spinning at double its normal speed, as it would when the wheel is slipping, the differential's remaining output starts to rotate slowly counterclockwise, which then locks the differential. This system is mirrored on each side, to allow it to lock regardless of which wheel is slipping. To continue my previous example, when the output is rotating clockwise, a sort of rotation sensor (using the red 16T gears in the image) prevents the output from doing anything, because if it tried to, it would just stall the drive motor, but when the direction is reversed, the lock is engaged. Unfortunately, although the mechanism was ultimately reliable, it took its time before locking! (I was trying to incorporate it into a model, and to make it lock faster, though still too slowly, I replaced the vertical 8:24 gearing on each side with a 16:16 one), and when reversing, the differential would lock immediately, and then start slipping the 24T clutch gear. As stated earlier, this is NOT a good candidate for inclusion in a model. I was trying, but it was just too inefficient, and provided no real advantage over a manually controlled lock. Still, though, it was a very interesting exercise. There is a video, too

Are there actually plans for a new Buwizz, or is Newest_Tech320 just guessing?

AEV Brute [The AEV Brute is a pickup truck version of the TJ and JK Jeep Wranglers, built by American Expedition Vehicles] This is my latest MOC, built in only two days! It has three L motors driving it, which gave it abundant power! Aesthetics: The vehicle didn't really look too great, but at least it is boxy in real life. I should also say that in some of the images some parts are slightly askew (Like the mudguard in the main image) as the pictures were taken right after some ourdoor off-roading. Drive: 3 L motors under the bed cover drove the four wheels at either a 3:1 ratio or a 9:1 ratio, depending on what speed you were in. All wheels were driven using knob wheels and portal axles. Gearbox: The model had a simple two-speed gearbox controlled using a PF M-motor, a transmission driving ring, and an old differential casing. Suspension: The whole model had long travel, soft live axle suspension, using one hard shock per axle. The position close to the pivot point softened it and increased travel. It was fun and bouncy. (Notice those good ol' dirty tires!) Steering: This model had a basic system using a Servo motor. This model was fun to build, and especially to drive, but it doesn't look too great. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/aev-brute 1:8 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 1LE This is my latest supercar, and my best one, too! It is my second Camaro, and is of the same model, though this one is a convertible, as my last one, though it is way bigger! It has five motorized functions, which I will get to later. But first... Aesthetics: This was a big car, which helps me to include minute detail. I was pretty happy with how it looked, though there was something just a little off with the headlights, which had LEDs. The hood opened and was assisted by a dampened shock absorber, which made it quite satisfying to open and close. The doors had simple locks, similar to what Sheepo has used recently, using a rubber axle joiner and a couple of those pointy pieces. Finally, this model had a first for me, an opening trunk! There was also an interior a bit nicer than my other ones. Convertible Roof: This model had a motorized convertible roof, which used a PF L-motor and a worm gear to operate a four-bar linkage connected to the roof. Steering: There was front wheel steering operated by a PF M-motor through a worm gear. There was Ackermann geometry and a working steering wheel. Drive: The model was driven by two large motors through the rear wheels, with a V8 piston engine. Suspension: The model had full independent suspension with 4 hard shock absorbers in front and 2 in the back (Yes, it looks like there were four in the back, but I disabled two of them after I realized that they collided with the brakes. Because of that, the rear suspension was a little too soft) There was full negative Camber angle, as well. Gearbox: This model had a sequential 6+2R gearbox, made by multiplying a 3+R times a 2 speed (In retrospect, I realize that I was aiming for the 6-speed manual in the real car. I really should have just made it a 4 times 2 (8) speed, as the real car can have an 8 speed auto) It was actually originally built from instructions I found online (Charbel on Rebrickable), so the frame is basically the same. Still, I changed the ratios of the 2 speed so that the working principle is similar to Rage Hobbit's, and changed the shifter, adding a stepper. Thus, it was really quite different. It was shifted using a Servo motor, but because the motor was too weak to gear up, I had to press the remote like 3 times before it would shift, so I probably should have used a regular motor instead. It worked pretty well, though it was a bit unhappy on high gears. Brakes: The model had full disc brakes, driven by a M-motor and some worm gears. It worked decently, definitely better than my Corvette's did. I added fake brake calipers. Overall, I am very happy with this model. It felt substantial, looked good, functioned well, and was more refined than my previous cars. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/chevrolet-camaro-zl1-1le 8070 Supercar full RC Mod After getting my 8070, I decided to do what nobody had ever done before: Mod an 8070. Oh wait, what are you saying? Everybody has already done that? Okay. Still, I felt like trying, and I am pleased with the result. It added motorized drive and steering and a motor to switch the original function selector. Drive was done using a single XL motor placed in front of the piston engine. Sadly, I had to downsize to a V6 to fit it in. Steering was accomplished with a M-motor placed above the steering shaft geared down an extra 3:1 Function switching was done just like a usual four speed sequential gearbox. I used a 24:1 worm gear reduction and another M-motor. Overall, I was quite happy with motorizing it while still keeping all the functionality. Likely this has been done before, but I don't really care. I can't seem to find my image files Mazda MX-5 Miata Aesthetics: The model is pretty ugly. The hood had to be too high because of the steering mechanism, and the rest of it isn't perfect. The rear lights, though, look great, made out of one piece that is absolutely perfect for the real ones!It was interesting to build a red model, but I don't have enough red to do big models yet. Suspension: There is front independent suspension and a rear live axle. Steering: A servo motor geared down 3:1 drives a 2L beam which pushes the 6L links. The white rubber bands on the suspension arms are just there to keep the wheels at the forward end of their backlash freedom. Drive: The model is driven by 3L motors at a 1:5 ratio before the differential. This provided a lot of speed, but I think 3 Ls was too much for one rechargeable battery box, as it would often squeal and turn off for a second. Other than that, it was fun to drive. This model was sorta fun, but ugly and the battery problems were really annoying. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mazda-mx-5-miata

Ichthia Marauder (Fictional Classic Muscle Car) This was my first real attempt at building a fictional car, and I am pretty pleased with the result. I now present the Ichthia Marauder, a classic muscle car. About this creation This was my first real attempt at building a fictional car, and I am pretty pleased with the result. I now present the Ichthia Marauder, a classic muscle car produced starting in 1969, retired in 1985, and then rebooted in 2003, receiving a major update in 2014. This car was produced by the Ichthia motor company, a Canadian car company operating out of Toronto and specializing in performance cars, including roadsters, muscle cars, and supercars. (Those last two sentences were just a fictional backstory; don't believe it or try searching for it on the internet!) The car has a front V8 engine, front and rear live axles, a four speed manual gearbox, RWD using two PF L-motors, and steering using a PF Servo motor, coupled with a working steering wheel. I was pretty happy with this car, for despite its relative simplicity, it functioned and looked well, and showed me just how satisfying a good working steering wheel can be! Plus, it had five seats! (GASP!) IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/ichthia-marauder Mini Jeep Wrangler Trial Truck This is a Mini Trial truck About this creation This is another older model that I built in November 2017. It is a Trial Truck, but at a small scale. An XL motor drives all four wheels at a 1:13 1/3 gear ratio, achieved through a 1:8 worm gear reduction at the axles, and then a 3:5 reduction in the portal axles. This is a bit of a faster gear reduction than I usually like to use for a Trial truck, but this model has small wheels, meaning more torque, and is lightweight. A M-motor steered the front wheels, and the windshield folds down. I think I actually forgot to mention that there is full pendular suspension! Three outdoor images. Yes, I have video, but no, I cannot post any. Sorry. This model was interesting to build, and performed reasonably well for it's size. Bigger wheels certainly help, though. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/mini-jeep-wrangler-trial-truck Chevrolet Corvette C7 Z06 Convertible Add a comment Zoom in This is a large, RC model of the latest, greatest 'Vette. About this creation Aesthetics: The bodywork of this model was definitely the highlight, though I intended for the functions to supersede it. It was my first black model, and this allowed me to use swoopier panels for the first time! I am super happy with the front looks. The corvette logo looks good to me, and the headlights seem great! The lights were crafted from several white and clear slope bricks, and I really like them. In case some people would have noticed, some of the headlight pieces are not official. You see, my grandma once bought me this clone set that had these strange useless light up pieces. However, the rest of the set was clear! Thus, I use some of these pieces for headlights sometimes because I am willing to sacrifice a models "Purity" for an important enough advantage. Another good example of this is the rims, which are made from a Shreddies box, coloured silver, and covered with packing tape. It looks pretty good, and I will likely use it again in the future. The hood can open to reveal a V8 piston engine. Oh the pain that went into fitting it in! The cockpit had a working steering wheel and a speed indicator for the gearbox. I was a lot less happy with the back. Actually, a lot of the stuff I built near the end was sorta sloppy, as the motorized functions were failing (More on that later) and I was convinced the model would be a failure anyway. Besides, I was excited for my next model! (Finished, except for a few pieces that I ordered and should arrive any day now) Steering: The steering used a M-motor in front of the rear axle, a worm gear, and some rubber bands. The steering wheel worked. There was Ackermann geometry, camber angle, and castor angle. The motor struggled a bit. Drive: Drive used two XL motors behind the rear axle. They drove the gearbox, which drove the rear wheels. A series of U joints took the drive around the gearbox to the piston engine, straight through the cabin! Suspension: All wheels had independent suspension with camber angle. Gearbox: The gearbox was a six-speed servo-controlled sequential gearbox. This would have been great, if it worked. It was working fine in tests, but once I added the driving rings, there was too much friction and it didn't shift well, so I often had to help with the stick in the cockpit. Still, it was a good exercise and was educational. A servo motor used a mechanism to push a gear rack, which pulled a rubber-band pusher thing (If you want to really understand the concept, build Sheepo's four speed gearbox with the free instructions.) which shifted the gears. It also pushed along the gear shift stick, which also indicated the speeds by the paper next to it. Brakes: The vehicle had four wheel disc brakes using rubber axle joiners and a PF M-motor. Sadly, the brakes were super weak, and made virtually no difference at all. Still, they were the most refined brakes of mine in any model to date. Overall, this model was a failure, but after all that work I had to post it. The mechanisms will hopefully be improved and find their way into another model someday, but the front does look pretty good, at least! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/corvette GMC Sierra 3500 HD This is a fairly small, functional GMC Sierra HD. About this creation This is a relatively small truck, and has several motorized functions. I think it looks quite good, and all the functions work well. Aesthetics: I think the truck looks pretty good, but is pretty boxy, as a truck should be. The front doors open, as does the hood and tailgate. There are LED headlights, and a GMC logo on the front. This is also my first pickup with rear double wheels, and as such has the protrusions coming from the side. Add-ons: I also built two different bed covers, the flat black one, and the big one that looks like an extended cab. Suspension: The vehicle has full live-axle suspension, and it uses flex-axles in the rear as leaf springs. Steering: The model has a Servo-motor attached to the front live axle to steer the wheels. A couple CV joints and a couple gears connect it to the working steering wheel. Drive: The model has four wheel drive and a V8 piston engine driven by two XL motors. Gearbox: The model has a four-speed sequential gearbox controlled by a PF M-motor with a speed indicator. Transfer case: The model has a two-speed transfer case, to give the model four high and four low gears. It is controlled by a PF M-motor Frame: This truck has the best chassis I have ever developed, as I always sorta thought it was pointless. Well, it turns out that there is definitely a point to having a tough frame, so it will likely become my new standard. I was quite happy with this model, which had strong looks and functionality. However, performance left something to be desired. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/gmc-sierra-3500-hd Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 1LE This is another of my old models that I am posting now. It is a model of the high-performance latest-gen Camaro. Aesthetics: This model looked quite good with the pointy nose and cool headlights. The doors could open. There were actually four seats! The wheels were Lego Truck tires, but with K-NEX wheels on them to work as rims. Suspension: This car had a rear live axle and front independent suspension. Steering. There was a M-motor steering the front wheels. There was a working steering wheel. Drive: An XL motor drove the rear wheels. Gearbox: There was a six-speed manual gearbox. Spoiler. The real Camaro does have a spoiler, but I think my retractable spoiler was unrealistic. Still, it was a cool function with a bunch of beams and stuff getting it to work in the small space. Overall, I have built better cars since, but this one was impressive for its good looks and also for the limited motors I had at the time. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/chevrolet-camaro-zl1-1le-old

Dodge RAM Power Wagon Zoom in This is my first large-scale truck, using the wheels from my new 4x4 crawler, and has many functions. About this creation This huge truck was a big first for me: It was my first vehicle with these wheels, and my first vehicle with six RC functions. Two hard-coupled XL motors drove all four wheels. (I made the mistake of gearing it down too much too early, so when the gearbox jammed, the motors broke two 12T bevel gears, and later a knob wheel!) Also, a PF E-motor ran the piston engine. This engine was a Cummins inline 6 turbodiesel, which I learned is not actually in Power Wagons (A 4x4 magazine misled me. Their truck must have had an engine swap). A Servo motor steered the front wheels, but it didn't actually work, as my V2 receiver from the 4x4 Crawler was faulty, and only the blue channel works. Thus, the steering only works in theory. A M-motor also turned the steering wheel. A L-motor controlled Sariel's heavy duty four speed gearbox by pushing the rubber band loaded axles back and forth with 2L beams. This did not always shift well, sadly. A PF M-motor also shifted a two speed transfer case. Another M-motor ran a pneumatic autovalve and compressor, which controlled a small pneumatic cylinder on each axle which worked the differential lock. Finally, a L-motor ran the winch at a 24:1 reduction, and the transfer case provided a neutral for it to work in. Both axles had floating axle suspension and portal axles, and there were LED headlights. All the doors had working locks. The tailgate and hood opened. This was a fairly satisfying model, both huge and complex. Some of the bodywork (ie, the roof) were less than I would want to do, simply because I was running out of pieces. Still, I am happy with this model. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/dodge-ram-power-wagon Subaru WRX STi A small, RC perfomance based Subaru WRX STi About this creation This model is smaller than most of mine, and has a focus on performance. In order to achieve that, it was driven by two L-motors at 1:3 gearing, and steered using a Servo motor. There was no rear suspension, but there was front independent suspension. There were LED headlights and two IR receivers-- simply because only one channel of my V2 receiver works :(. I was pretty happy with my model's looks, and it was nice to build a vehicle that was not grey, for once! The rear wing was probably exaggerated, but I still thought it looked cool. I used the old Model Team wheels both for their small width and in hopes that the old, less rubbery tires would be better for drifting. It drifted well without the body, and I even got it to do donuts once in a while! Performance was naturally worse with the body, but I was still happy with it. I should also mention that I finished this car some time ago and didn't get around to posting it. This means that I am actually nearly done my next big car, which is easily my best ever! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/subaru-wrx-sti Porsche 911 Carrera S This Technic Supercar, a Porsche 911 Carerra S, has five motorized functions, including a sequential gearbox and brakes. About this creation This supercar is easily my best one yet! It has five motorized functions at a small scale, and a few non-motorized features as well! These nonmotorized functions include full independent suspension using torsion bars and elastics, an opening hood with a knob in the cabin to start it, and opening doors (The driver's door has a lock, but the other side doesn't, as space was tight) There is motorized drive using two PF L-motors, coupled with a Boxer six piston engine, through a central differential for All Wheel Drive. There is steering using a PF M-motor and a worm gear, but I couldn't really attach a working steering wheel in the space I had. A M-motor retracts the rear spoiler using a worm gear and a clutch gear. There are brakes in all four wheels using a PF M-motor, but sadly the brakes were very crude, with just some pieces (Rubber in the rear) pressing on the tire. In the end, I would have to simplify the suspension and drivetrain (Switch to Tatra suspension and RWD) , and simplifying the brakes seemed the better option. Finally, there is a four-speed sequential gearbox controlled using a PF Servo motor. This means that the gearbox is super easy to switch, as you just push the remote lever and it will switch up one speed no matter how long you hold the lever. When you let go of the lever, the Servo returns to the center but does not shift down or up. At this point, you can shift up again, or decide to shift down a speed. The gearbox worked well, though the size kept me from putting in a passenger seat. I will hopefully post the gearbox separately in a few days. I was very happy with this model in most respects, but there were a few problems. First, the looks seemed a bit off. Second, there was only one seat. Third, the suspension was too soft, leading me to not want to use torsion bars in the future. This model was, in my opinion, my best ever, and I am very pleased with the result! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/porsche-911-carrera-s Four Speed Sequential Servo Gearbox This is the gearbox used in my Porsche 911, and is meant to be very easy to control. About this creation This is a four speed sequential gearbox controlled by a Servo motor. This is probably the very best way to control a multi-speed gearbox in Lego, as you just push the stick on the remote forward and you shift up exactly one speed, then release it and nothing happens as the Servo returns to center. Then you can either shift up or down from there. Another advantage is that it is easy to add an auto-clutch (Attach the clutch directly to the servo motor so that whenever it is not in the center the clutch is disconnected, so when you release the remote, it will reconnect)These are some pictures to help you build one if you want to. IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/four-speed-sequential-servo-gearbox Toyota Hilux Trial Truck This truck is easily my best off-road model yet in terms of performance. It has full floating axle suspension using ball joints and large shocks, front wheel steering using a PF L-motor under the hood, and 4WD using an XL motor in each axle. These motors were geared down 3:1 before the portal axles, which had another 3:1 reduction, for 9:1 total reduction. There were LED headlights, and the entire body could easily be taken off to drive with the chassis only. I was pleased with this model's performance, which was naturally much better without the bodywork on. Now, I know that a video is very important for a Trial Truck, and I have one, but I have had no success in posting one. If someone could comment and tell me how to post videos with the simple uploader, I could add video of most of my vehicles I think! IMAGES AT: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/toyota-hilux-trial-truck

And the Buwizz has integrated pinholes, so it doesn't really need a bracing like that. The subtractor setup looks impressively compact, though high torque would probably skip the bevel gears.

Good work! You seemed to successfully combine parts from your previous designs to create a smooth, compact gearbox that, with the right reinforcement, could be very usable in a MOC. I find that with Technic progress is often evolutionary, where one makes something, learns from it, makes something better, and continues learning and improving designs. That's why so many of my old models were so pathetic!

I don't think so. (Assuming you were replying to me?) My collection is primarily made of the Mercedes Arocs (~2800 pieces), the Extreme Adventure (~2400 pieces), 9398 (~1300 pieces), 8070 (~1100 pieces), plus three sets around 400 pieces each, and maybe an extra thousand parts from garage sales, Bricklink, and Bricks and Pieces, for a total of approximately 10000 pieces. And yet even with that (relatively) little collection, I have never even gotten close to running out of those pins!

Are you serious about the 50 000 pieces!? I think my collection would be closer to 10 000! Maybe I pay for that by having only one color (LBG) to build big models with...

To access Bricks and Pieces, you need to click on Replacement Parts in the Support section, then click on Buy Bricks. I would agree with others, though, that if you are looking to build a Technic collection, the cheapest way is probably to buy a number of sets, paying attention to which parts are included, to build up a good stock of the more generic pieces and a good number of specialized ones, and then buying whatever pieces you happened to miss out on from Bricklink or Bricks and Pieces. This is the route I took, starting back in late 2015, and it has served me well for MOCing. I think my Technic collection is worth about $2000, and it has everything I need. I do have to take apart all my MOCs after I make them, but that is fine with me.

Okay, that does sound like a fairly reasonable price for a serious fan.