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amorti

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by amorti

  1. So I found a charge cable. I have no idea what it came from but there it was hiding in a moving box since last time we moved. I even got the controller to charge from my PC. Turns out you either need a cable to connect it to the phone, or to root your Android device if you want to connect via Bluetooth. Do I want to root my phone? I have no idea. Will a PS4 controller connect easily?
  2. Vaseline is petroleum jelly. Petroleum products eat ABS plastic, acid or not. Or did I miss something?
  3. I've been using this stuff for a while. It's safe. https://granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=170
  4. Sadly I have nothing which takes that plug, no EV3.
  5. I bought a used ps3 controller to use with my android phone... but the battery is dead and I didn't realise it needs a specific charge cable. So I'll let you know if that works, when it arrives :D
  6. @astyanax they're strong enough for greyhound, which I have running on two buwizz and with +30% Chinese L-motors which really do give some 30% extra power and speed. Not sure there's much more you could reasonably ask a U joint to do. I did splash some silicon grease on them for good luck. Silicon in case if splash on plastic parts
  7. Good point, and quite possibly, so I'llqualify my statement. I can personally attest that dielectric grease has caused no damage to my Lego pieces over a long enough test for me to be happy to use it in any moving parts. Shouldn't be a surprise either since part of the product's design brief is to not damage plastic wire insulation. For the same reason I would have no reservations about using red rubber grease in any application which demanded a thicker grease. Might be too thick for most Lego applications though. I've used gt85 to shine up motorcycle fairings (also ABS but not quite same because painted on the outside) with no ill effect. Not tried it on Lego and even if it says safe for plastic on it, the risk would be your own as any spray has propellants and those can potentially give you problems. @Didumos69 it's not pure but maybe it's something you'd consider? I've now fitted some of these in the front axle. https://a.aliexpress.com/_dVVIOhk The quality is... Well, it's a bit alie. They fit loose on an axle, but they neither slip nor damage the axle. Just a little looser than old CV joints I'd say. They turn freely. They don't break!
  8. OK, you know what to do. Replace the broken one, and any others which have become loose with new parts. Lubricate before you clip them together! I recommend silicon grease (you might find it called red rubber grease, dielectric grease) for lubricating as it's plastic-safe. Silicon sprays such as GT85 will help but it's thin and won't last so long. Do not use mineral based greases such as lithium grease, wd40, or Vaseline as they are bad for the plastic.
  9. Might be tricky. I think the length of the wishbone changes quite a bit, and you'd be relying on the old CV joints (which probably won't give enough angle) sliding up and down on a CV axle.
  10. Turntable are really hard to get open, with much better retention than a usual 3-pin hub. I've never had one pop out. However, I guess if you didn't lubricate the turntables, the retaining clips could wear out? I did order 4x turntables to have as spares "just in case", but I haven't needed them.
  11. Whichever way you cut it, that's a lot of blocks and RC parts for not a lot of money. Anyone recognise it as a stolen moc? I'm guessing not since it uses control+ style motors. Not a lot of MOCs with those in so far.
  12. Like it! Might the off-road motorcycle tyres be suitable to give it a bit more clearance? Corresponding extra length of swing arm would make the suspension softer, more off-road suitable.
  13. Chinabrick maker sembo released an "Andi" sport car. A lot of alternative brick fans hail it as an independent designed: no stolen moc here! But they're wrong. This is as stolen as any of the more blatant copues. Both axles, the steering, the drive unit, and quite possibly the entire chassis are lifted straight from Madoca's Icarus. Anyone interested can see around the middle of this video. https://youtu.be/1Bq126q14LA Understand if mod wants to remove the link, I've specifically kept it as a text link.
  14. Didn't he do that with an auto brand beginning with "L" who already has a (probably exclusive) license with Lego? You can play smarter than that.
  15. If cost is a concern, I guess you maybe don't know there's another way to get all the pieces for this build for sensible money...
  16. It's clear that it's massive. I'm assuming you lost count of parts long ago, but how heavy is it? 12* XL motors! Bet that takes a few battery boxes. I'd like to see it move.
  17. It's possible. The rally car is definitely quicker on alternative apps, as the Lego app only gives the motor part throttle.
  18. True, although Ducati is well known for engine sharing across platforms. I'd be surprised if a V4 hypermotard never happened.
  19. @agrof looking good! Of course, now you've done the front fender like that, it needs to become a HyperMotard...
  20. That's some great mechanisms, I particularly like the crab @Lipko
  21. @Lasse D it's not specifically a criticism of your work. Call it Olden Days Syndrome if you like, but I'd rather have the toy teach me something about how the real thing works, rather than just have the same inputs and outputs. I am equally disappointed that Lego couldn't manage a boxer 6 or W16 engine. Let's not get started on linear actuators which give a smoother action than pneumatic cylinders, but lose all the simulated realism of a hydraulic system; or too-basic suspension setups (I've not looked into how it works on the Sian, maybe it's better). Apparently though I'm in the minority, because gearboxes seem to sell well, and none of them in the 1:8 UCS sets have anything to do with reality.
  22. Ford already uses a 10 speed automatic in a Mustang with the engine at the front and the driven wheels at the rear - as I imagine you already knew ;) Manual models with complex gearboxes aren't really my bag, but I'm impressed anyway. While the mechanism isn't realistic, it's great that you got 10 actual gears with decent steps between them, in the right order, so at least the effect will be realistic.
  23. Currently all you have is the friction of one axle to hold on a pretty large track assembly. I'd be looking at ways to incorporate a small turntable for each set of tracks to pivot around, it'll be smoother and more secure. It's always going to be a problem to go from an XL motor to an 8 tooth gear, but you've exacerbated it by leaving that half stud of space and so the teeth of an already weak gear are only half contacting each other. You might do better by skipping that first reduction. Put the power through two pairs of 8 tooth gears instead; spread the load more.
  24. I do like the idea of a lipo battery, very nice. The lower weight will be a big help in getting up hills that Lego models should never have tried I think I'll wait for Lego to come with that tech though. 3D printing and sourcing my own battery and charger etc is a bit further than I'm willing to get involved. If you could take a 3S battery and regulate it down to 10.4v to suit the electronics... Now that would be something.
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