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amorti

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Everything posted by amorti

  1. amorti
    There are posts above regarding making the battery box much more accessible. If you've already got the model built, you'll have to torture a few pieces but it's still possible to make the modification at this point. To note: rechargable batteries are heavier than regular batteries. Ofc we should be using rechargable cells because of the environment, but the performance of the model does suffer from the extra weight.
  2. amorti
    I do think the grease makes a big difference. Without grease the weight all hangs at the bottom point if each turntable and there will be white plastic powder there when you open it up. Don't use mineral grease only silicon grease!
  3. amorti
    The motor is the one I referenced which I've been told can do 1,200 rpm. I assumed that was with a different planetary gear inside the motor and the advantage that MK uses stronger motors than Lego, but if they're also boosting it to 10.4v to get that speed it starts seeming much more plausible.
  4. amorti
    While we're busy not discussing knock-off brands but only their PF parts... Mould King (yes, they publish stolen MOCs, yes I know that's bad) has released a revised set of PF motors with translucent dark orange front covers. The servos are still the usual Chinese junk which only does left/right/middle-ish (they overshoot the middle each time they return). But I will say the motors in them are powerful, noticeably stronger than Lego servos. I've unscientifically tested the L-motors which are both noticeably faster, and noticeably more powerful than those from Lego. If you put Lego motors on buwizz Fast mode, it's still not quite as fast as these Chinese motors in Normal mode, and the Lego motors will still stall easier. The consequence of course is they must be using more amps. You can tell this as it's much easier trip the buwizz protection in ludicrous mode with these motors, than with Lego's motors. You can also much quicker find the weakest link in your drive train... Mould King also recently released a model (yes, it's a stolen MOC, yes I know that's bad) with L-motors which can allegedly spin at 1,200rpm, which is about the same as the slow output of a buggy motor. I doubt any purist will be interested, but I bet there are MOCs out there which would benefit from more powerful motors. If anyone out there has the facility to do a proper test, I'd happily send out one of the new orange L-motors and wouldn't be too bothered if the testing killed it.
  5. amorti
    You'd need LDD to use its instruction set I'm afraid. It generates automatically. Rocky is indeed on rebirckable, I absolutely recommend it. There's a thread on here with a few mods too.
  6. amorti
    The skipping seems to be because for a moment on each shift, the box is between each gear. This means the resistance "sensor" has nothing to sense. Have I got it right so far? Does it help to put two bands where you have them, and another on the other side? Might damp some of the shifter's movement... maybe. Apart from that I'm thinking of ways to get the system's impulse to shift, to stick. Something perhaps like a 4x4 round plate with system triangles making 4x traps for the shifter? IDK, seems complicated but might be what it needs to give a detent.
  7. amorti
    Honestly I'm surprised it works at all. Maybe it's helped by how long the wishbones are? It can give a bit of forgiveness in the tolerances since the wishbones are relatively flexible. You'd probably get away with it using the old CV joints because they can slide along an axle, but it's definitely not ideal and I don't see it working well with the new joints. Although even then you do have one old one at the bottom... so maybe? You'll have to test it yourself to see if it works when you also add steering.
  8. amorti
    Well, LDD is free software so it won't hurt you to download it. I've built this from LDD's automated instructions which are kind of ok, although It's made more difficult because the "biscuit piece" isn't in the inventory. In any case, you can build it. Worth knowing that the steering, while very very clever, isn't perfect. If you crash it will nearly always skip a tooth, then you must reset it. It's not avoidable with the steering setup, and is caused by the inherent freeplay in a turntable. Even with that proviso, it's well worth building the model. If you didn't already build rocky from 42099, go do that too - well worth the few euros for the instructions :)
  9. amorti
    It's amazing how much hype Lego can create for a car which will do little more than look nice while it gathers dust. There's also been a leaked video of the Chinese "xyen" model. You'll find it if you want to.
  10. amorti
    Gotcha. Yeh, a standalone controller would be ideal.
  11. amorti
    Yes makes sense. It's not a portal hub though, that's the ones with hear reductions inside the wheel "hanger".
  12. amorti
    If the second steering rack isn't driven then I'm not sure it'll serve much purpose. However, they do use an "idle" steering rack as you've drawn here on Lego set 42099 so maybe it does "something" - if you have space left over you can try it out, but I wouldn't put too much effort into keeping that space free.
  13. amorti
    They make those, it's called a PS/xbox controller ;)
  14. amorti
    Even if you could do that, it would be a digital control which defeats the point of Buwizz. Try BrickController2, you can use a PS4 controller for your buwizz.
  15. amorti
    Not sure where to begin because of incomplete diagram, but I can say it won't work. Yet. Cv joints need to be in the same plane as the pivot, both up/down and steering. If you fix that, it's still going to be a lot of power to put through old type CV joints if using them for steering too, and they may not take it. Even if they do, they won't allow much steering angle. Try using new type CV joints instead. Two steering links isn't a bad idea, it can increase strength and reduce slack. However I can't figure out if what you've done will work due to view angles. The racks need to be driven at the same speed (ie by the same size cog) in opposite directions. Seems like you have the first rack off the servo by an 8 tooth but the further rack on a 12 tooth gear? It would move the second rack quicker and they'll fight each other.
  16. amorti
    Pittman arm, maybe?
  17. amorti
    Silicon grease works well, it's employed in as wheel bearing grease in my Greyhound model from Didumos.
  18. amorti
    You joined up just to post this on a 4 year old thread??
  19. amorti
    That looks brilliant and it's very impressive how many functions you've got in it, not to mention how well they work. You'd be selling cheap at £8 mate, plenty of guys charging $20+ on rebrickable for vehicles with fewer functions. I don't see any issue with poor rear visibility. This isn't a station wagon. Same with the engine popping out the front. It's obviously not a scale replica of anything, so you can design fun stuff like letting the pistons be seen moving while playing. There are Aston's with a front mounted v12. No big deal there either.
  20. amorti
    The other positive: you don't need a central differential. With Lego's open differentials, you need all 4 wheels on the ground to move. With two separate drive trains it'll keep moving if any 3 wheels (or two of the same axle) are touching the ground.
  21. amorti
    Take for example didumos's Greyhound moc. Each of the 4 wheels is independently powered by an L motor. Two of those are on one buwizz and two on another. Even so with the motors not connected at all, it'll pull straight. Your idea will work just fine ?
  22. amorti
    Looks great! The steering linkage is very clever. Is that a rubber 2L in there? Does it work better with a normal 2L liftarm or is it allowing for a bend? Plenty of videos on YouTube about using hydrogen peroxide to clean up yellowed old plastic parts, worth a look in your case.
  23. amorti
    So what's it for?
  24. amorti
    There are indeed bolts with finer and coarser threads, and the ones with coarser threads will go in and out faster. But that's because the nuts are also coarser threaded. The Lego gears all have teeth at the same pitch.
  25. amorti
    Like a ball screw, the worm in a worm gear may have a single start or multiple starts – meaning that there are multiple threads, or helicies, on the worm. For a single-start worm, each full turn (360 degrees) of the worm advances the gear by one tooth. So a gear with 24 teeth will provide a gear reduction of 24:1. For a multi-start worm, the gear reduction equals the number of teeth on the gear, divided by the number of starts on the worm. https://www.motioncontroltips.com/worm-gears-what-are-they-and-where-are-they-used/
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