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Everything posted by Aurorasaurus
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I'd think at that scale with 2x buwizz motors you could gear up the buwizz motors rather than down..
- 9 replies
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- hoonitruck
- lego
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Well, I've put a few hours on some more of them and (admittedly it was going 26km/h sometimes) the wheel hub seems to have gained more wobble, like the old two part ones. I was using extra lubrication, as well. I'm talking about the side to side wobble of the wheel attachment points relative to the rest of the hub. But that's, IMO, a huge improvement over the old hubs which would have just melted or come apart, like they did in the buwizz peugeot 9x8 mod.
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Its hardly a world record breaker lol, the buwizz team got 60km/h... As for the weight of the tires, in my hands they feel lighter than the same diameter lego ones. They're from a chinese manufacturer called "Injora" if anyone's curious, I found them at a great bargain on aliexpress. Anyway, thanks for the praise!
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Well, I finally built a bodywork I don't absolutely hate for my 26km/h car: So while I don't actively despise it, looking at it from above is not pleasant. But at this point I'm just happy to have not torn the rear suspension apart and turned it into a trophy truck. I suppose that'll be next. It doesn't need the rubber bands on the suspension, but I like the extra bounce they give it. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions, are most welcome and appreciated.
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Hmm, I could try other things in the future, but at the moment for the time and money it costs it seems just buying original lego tires is better value. As for the 3d printed mould, thats not really the issue so much as filling it consistently. The high weight comes from the walls being very thick, so It would be easier to remove the inside of the mould. The part that would be in contact with the surface is 4.6mm thick, and doesnt feel as strong as I'd like. Thicker is simply too heavy. The tire also smells like silicone, which I'm not enjoying. Your method is an awful lot of work, but it seems to be turning out better. Also, I didnt realise other people on yt were making tires the way I am, I just kinda thought about it for a bit lol. How heavy and large is that tire? Lego rim for comparison?
- 706 replies
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- wheels 3rd party
- 8110
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4 PF L motors for drive, 1 PF L motor for pneumatic diff locks, 1 PF servo for steering. Its fairly quick for what it is, an offroader, but I dont like it much. It also has awful approach and depart angles, I placed it on that rock. But it can climb 45 degrees no problem. If anyone wants more photos in the next day or two I will probably still have the model assembled.
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No worries :D Some things I'd warn about with a system like this: 4 or 6 motors already provides plenty of torque. But also, using the fast output and gearing for more torque will get you a lower speed than the slow output. The internal ratio of the buggy motors is 17:23, 1:1.352. With lego gears that I assume one might use, you can get 20:28, 1:1.4, or 12:20, 1:1.66. So both times you're slower than the slow output, the torque gain is marginal and unnecessary, and the extra complexity from these gearings adds another failure point. I dont think they brace as nicely as 28:28. 20:28 certainly doesnt, and 12:20 does, but the pieces are physically too weak to deal with the power 2 motors. However, thinking like this might be wrong, If you're able, doing things is the best way to learn, IMO. So go, try push that magic pole a little further. Best of luck.
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3 motors on one axle isn't something I've tried, it might work. Something to think about is that the weakest link will always break first. So for my model that was the 12t gears, until I changed them. If you're using CV or U joints with differentials, the easiest point to break will usually be the cv joints popping or slipping out of the diff. If you can combat that, then you can worry about melting stuff.
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From my experience, 2 buggy motors on one axle is safe, 4 melts things. I only broke parts when I crashed, this time. The chassis is 4x4 from the slow outputs. The DBG differential that take 3 inner gears isnt really built for that much stress, I'd advise against using it if you have other options. If you scroll up a bit, I was using 12t gears earlier. Unfortunately, because I'm not using planetary hubs, the gears are handling a lot of torque. The 12t gears skipped a lot, and melted parts since skipping teeth forced the gear to places it shouldnt be. Handling has been a long term thorn in my side when using 1BW motor per fromt wheel, so figuring out a way to get the caster angle is really what really reignited the flame for this project. Thanks for the praise.