MinusAndy

I have about 20 of that last one! That’s a good shout

I want to avoid making the swing arm too bulky and blunt so definitely not 90 degrees. I’ll be investigating the huge pile of bionicle technic parts I have acquired as there are all sorts of curved lift arms in it. I have a propensity to overbuild and make large Mocs so I’m trying to keep this bike more concise. Colour wise, I’m going to try and use existing stuff I have rather than buy a load of bits.

I think hicas actually steers in different directions to the front wheels depending how fast you’re going? Ie low speed it’s in opposition for tighter turning and agility and when you’re going fast it switches to making it crab slightly.

Yeah. If I can make some sort of knuckle on the end of a bent lift arm that could work.

Yeah I agree, this is literally me hanging it together so I can get it working.

I tend to get obsessed with either a mechanism or part of a vehicle. Then scale to wheels, or a specific feature. Then I sketch it out on a big bit of card, based on sizes from Sariels model scaler. I like to sketch it together out of whatever bits then I improve one side at a time until I realise my mechanism is deeply flawed, tear down, repeat. One side at a time works well for me.

For this competition I wanted to build a bike around these wheels that I got in a bargain eBay set a while ago. I wanted to keep to a small build with a few decent functions. I wanted to build Kaneda from Akira’s bike. It has a really long wheelbase and hub centre steering with a weird opening front faring. I also wanted to build a bike with a radial engine, so I’ve decided to combine the two and build a long, low bike with a large radial engine and hub centre steering. Ive started off with this hub centre steering setup.

Clearly Suzuki were mad in the 80’s! Remember street hawk? A Suzuki katana, the motorbike with a pop up headlight. you could possibly do hub centre steering from outside the centre line using a vpp?

Me neither but I’m going to have a go. You should too, I figure a good way to learn is to do this comp. worst case, build half a car.

I’ve been thinking about this to make the day at work pass quicker. Could you do something like have a rack setup on the rear wheels and have it controlled by the difference in outputs across the diff? I was thinking of it in terms of four wheel drive and running some sort of system like that across the centre diff? For a 2wd system this idea seems to work on paper at least. I’m thinking that if you could take from each side of the diff and run those in opposite directions back into another diff, the casing would only spin when one wheel was going quicker than the other and that output from the casing could drive a rack that is spring loaded back to centre? I’ll try and build it in ldd as that explanation is probably about as clear as mud. The red diff is the regular drive to the back wheels, The yellow and blue sides provide drive into the sky blue diff in opposite directions so cancel each other out when driving straight, Then if a wheel rotates quicker, the sky blue diff case will move, You could take this movement and use it to drive a rack or pushrod steering system, you'd need some sort of torque soak as the sky blue casing will continue to rotate while you corner. This would work like a semi open diff as the soak would create friction between the output axles. The difference between the wheel outputs will be sent to the purple lift arm which rotates around the light grey axle. It will only be a pushing force due to the friction pin in the small bevel gear. I reckon the push will be ideal for hicas, especially if you have it sprung to centre. It should work in a correctional manner. I hope the above helps.

Thanks man. Fortunately the a10’s undercarriage is really simple and robust with no fancy linkages so I could make it as straight as possible. I’ve snapped a few of those thin bevel gears in the mechanism though.

Thanks! It’s starting to come together despite some serious time setbacks (binging the mandalorian)

I tried the new colour scheme on the tail today. I’m missing a few parts but overall pretty happy with it.

Fantastic. I saw this on tlcb earlier and was hoping it was on here too. The interior door panels look great.

Great shaping. The front view, I could tell it was a sirocco immediately.

It’s cos kids don’t care!

I think it only works in one direction as if you spin it the other way the worm will want to shuttle the in the opposite direction. I guess you could make a floating worm and have another gear, like say a crawler gear that engaged when you drove the motor the opposite way and put an extra cog in the chain to bring the drive back to the same direction, that would work like a kickdown when you reversed the input. or you could use the system to provide a realistic low reverse gear.

Looks a bit like the Johnny cab from total recall!

Those new panels on the front of the bonnet will be a game changer for me when they come out in more colours. They will be fantastic on 3mm hose for making wheelarches and panel edges. The same goes for the new 3x2 beam with the curved beam. Perfect for stringing onto stiff hose and making compound curves. This set as it is holds no interest for me aside from those parts.

I only have three motors so that wasn’t an option for me. I like mechanical treebling though and I’m trying to improve my skills so I can build more compact stuff. The small car competition on here was quite inspirational in terms of seeing how much stuff people could squeeze in.

I finally got her up on her undercarriage today.

More WIP. I’ve put these three tan knobs of god on the back of the plane as it counters the backlash from the limited input range on the joystick. I’ve added the three main function switches as extras on the back as well as in the cockpit so everything moves in there and on the control surfaces. I’m much happier with the distribution box now, it’s more organised and smoother than it was and thanks to a couple of threads on torque on this forum I now think I understand why I was losing so much power whilst driving the turbines and the undercarriage.

Fantastic! Could you build a pipe dragon for it too?

Is there a strimmer cable that would work for this? It’s not hollow so you couldn’t put flex cables through it but it might work nicely for supporting axle holes