MinusAndy

I’ve been thinking about this for a few days, I reckon that the whole point in building Mocs is that there’s always another turn of the screw to be made. I mean the whole process, if you’re a grownup is basically relaxation/distraction so why not tinker? It’s not like it’s important. I know for a fact that whilst my rs200 is “finished”, there’s a few things I’d change, and one day I will. The beauty of Lego is the finish line is totally flexible. Maybe a moc is only finished when it’s been photographed and dismantled.

Yeah I’ve tried loads of things like wheel rims and curved bricks but that way seems the best, especially in terms of getting rotating parts inside. Luckily the Hawg is pig ugly in real life so the model gets a bit of slack in that department. I tried using curved panels when I first started building it but they didn’t work as well as using the radial parts inside.

Yeah I know man, I’m not up for using system for them and I figured I’d use a similar technique on other areas like the nose so as to make them fit in as a building style. If I can get the ends to blend in more I think it’ll help. If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears.

I’ve had a busy weekend and redesigned the retract system, the rears now have a single common worm drive in the fuselage. They don’t lock but the force taken through the leg when the plane is stood on it is three studs behind the pivot point and it pushes directly on the main spar. I’ve slimmed out the back of the fuselage as it was too bulky before and built the nacelles into one solid unit. I still need to work on the reliability of the front retract as it often catches on the side of the door. It also needs moving one tooth round on the worm gear as it needs to be more vertical. I’m pleased with the stance of the plane, redesigning the undercarriage forced me to address that issue.

I’d recommend using the wheels from 8880 on it as those are way too wide for an 80’s car, even a group b monster like that.

I’ve had this exact issue and went for a three tone camo scheme of lbg dbg and black to get around it. Maybe you could go camo?

Those brown three way connectors are great, especially combined with the axle version. I really struggled to make radial and round objects without them. Great advice. I’m going to have a look at those. Fortunately the A10 has really simple robust undercarriage and the rears do not fully retract so you can land with the wheels up. The undercarriage doors are directly linked to the leg so they can be blown down by the wind if the system fails. Here’s the original design with the worm gear in each pod and the new version which is much simpler and works so much better. and the new version with a more appropriate door design too. Thanks for looking.

What a monster! Love it!

I’ve made the decision today to re design the rear retract mechanism. At the moment I have low torque high speed coming from the central distribution box and a low profile worm drive mechanism in each wheel pod. This relies heavily on thin bevel gears and they snap easily. Also, it’s very tricky to get them synchronised with each other. I plan to move the worm mechanism to a single one in the centre of the fuselage at wing height, then undercarriage driven with one axle out to each pod. I think it will need a locking mechanism too. Also, I’ve made the turbofans completely modular and they can be removed intact in the spirit of the real plane. All control surfaces are interchangeable with their opposite counterparts. Same with the engines. Pics of revised undercarriage to come.

6:10 17:6 26:4 11:3 5:2 27:1

I think the Porsche 944 had a rear mounted gearbox and a front mounted engine, as did some Alfa’s. Ford did the opposite with the rs200 and it has a mid engine with prop shaft running to the front mounted gearbox.

That has really come together nicely. The farings and screen are great.

Thanks man. Yeah it’s got pretty big. They always look bigger in the flesh than on the plans though!

After a month break from building the hog for TC19 I got back on it today and built the second engine. I’m waiting on a load of parts in order to complete the camo scheme but it was nice to get both engines built and also to add the mechanisms for the control surfaces on the tail plane.

I live in a one room converted stable so space is at a premium. I have an old writing bureau, all drawers filled with stack pack trays with parts in. I tend to group them quite roughly, ie all 3,5,7 lift arms in one box, 9,11 in another etc. I often group parts like connectors by colour, so for example, I’m using mainly dbg on my moc at the moment so I clump all my dbg connectors together. a couple of decent lights are essential, I also have a brick separator and a small screwdriver that I have ground the end into a smooth shape that fits inside pins. for scaling etc, sariels scaler to get things in the right ballpark, then I draw it full size using the scaler and stick the plan to the desk part. sometimes I get the scale roughly right then draw the template basically freehand. I didn’t know about sariels scaler when I built this one so I just went from freehand drawings based on Ford blueprints etc. lego models are always a sort of charicature of the real thing so I quite like to just see where it takes me. Here I have the scaler plan and a scaled up hand drawn version stuck to the desk, plus the all important Haynes manual!

Mesmerising stuff.

https://flic.kr/p/2kxQuUc

Kaneda's Other Bike Features: Balanced Suspension with Single Sided Swing Arms. Hub Centre Steering with Speeder Bike Style Arms. Working Rear Brake Pedal. Two Speed + Neutral Gearbox with Pedal Shifter. Spring Loaded Kickstand. Six Cylinder Radial Fake Engine. Link to video https://flic.kr/p/2kxQuUc

Here is the finished model: Features include: Front and rear suspension. Hub centre steering. Shaft Drive with cool little green discs that spin as you drive. 2 speed gearbox operated by L/H foot pedal. Rear brake operated by R/H foot pedal. Speeder bike style steering. 6 cylinder radial engine. Sprung kickstand. 1 piece removable body. The bike was designed around the idea of Kaneda's bike from AKIRA. So its looooong! with a reclining cruisy riding position, Its not short on power but I imagine its a bit of a handful with all that crankshaft torque. I wanted to build a radial engine for a while and a motorbike seemed like the perfect place for one. Thanks for looking, There are more photos of functions on my flickr and a video to come.

That’s the part. I had no idea what it was. It looks really useful for creating round shapes.

Ahh I’m glad it worked. I’ve not built many things digitally. (Or for real, I only just found out that there are 14t bevel wheels available, this is a game changer for me.) I’ve nearly finished the bike now. The bodywork is about done. I’ve also added a brake pedal and a kickstand. the brake pedal operates by forcing two rubber parts onto a “disc” made from a bevel gear on the output shaft on the gearbox. im not entirely happy with the linkage to the brake pedal but it works ok so I’ll live with it for the weekend and see if I can improve on it. Suggestions welcome.

It almost looks like the mould surfaces are different, one much more matt. Maybe they need to change out their mould tool more frequently. Those variations are what you expect from Chinese copies, not a 350 quid high end set.

Mine is just visual and spins, it doesn’t fire and your system looks pretty similar.

This is exactly how I geared up the gau8 in my latest moc. I used 2 pulleys on each one. in the end I decided on less speed as it was taking too much torque to spin it up as it was a shared output from a motor. That will fly with two hubs though!

This is exactly how I’ve been refurbishing snowboard bindings for many years now, they are generally abs with a few springs and metal parts. So long as there are no electronics, Lego is just some bits of plastic for kids with a few springs in. It’s not a bag of kittens or part of the space shuttle. It’ll be fine.