johnnym

Ok, I thought if it doesn't break it would be allowed It's some fiddling, but it "works". But still better that you found an alternative to bending parts. Nice one, especially the side profile of the tracks - it captures the look of the real tracks very well I think. Well, I can't really tell. The gray tracks add a little more contrast to it. The black tracks might be closer to reality. Ever tried black and gray alternating? Might look strange, but I could imagine that it will create some interesting effect when driving.

Wow! Love it! Cool how a few changes give the blue car from 42098 a totally different look. The rear end came out especially good in the shown perspective. Nice example. I already wanted to ask for that. Much obliged. I think I'll give it a try.

Using a 3L axles with stop instead doesn't help? In order to make enough room for the stop, It could be necessary to change the 3L axle connectors near the sprocket wheels for 2L ones and use a +1L longer axle to connect to them. But maybe then the U-joints pop out instead...

Thanks @iLego! With the El Camino front, 1971 Chevy Chevelles are now also in reach. I'd love to see someone taking my El Camino as basis for such a build. Exactly, they ease up things near the wheels, though they therefore (could) also hold one back to come up with another design - so a mixed blessing actually. But for me personally the advantages of them are prevailing.

Yeah, the 8048 is a great set for useful parts and usually pretty affordable. I could re-use a pretty good amount of its parts in my RC buggy.

Cool! I really like the body shape. As @Lipko I'd also like to see more pictures about it. To be completely honest I'm not so much interested in the technology beneath it , but it looks very sophisticated and like a great building experience. Do you have an idea about how many parts are in use?

Sorry, I was away for a few days. But this is more or less, what I had in mind. Except that I assumed the black parts close to the sprocket wheels could be used rotated 90°, but obviously the height difference is too big to do that. Congrats on this machine! I'd really like to see it in action. From what I see here: ...I should have everything, except for the dozens of bevel gears with pin hole, but maybe pulley wheels could also work there instead.

Very interesting! Thanks for sharing the detailed photographs. If I ever change from the open frames with ball joint to "normal" frames on my off-road version, I think this would be the way to go. Nice work and keeps the promises from your first pictures. Hopefully you'll also create a digital model. This pickup asks for motorization and I'd be willing to do that.

You're right, it really looks good that way. But when you move the fake engine up, you'd also have an engine there. And you could use bricks to detail it even more than the two PF L motors would allow. Other idea: Why not use the U-joints first - BTW, are CV-joints out of the question? - and make the 90° direction change (not down but to the left and to the right) directly near the sprocket wheels? I think this would also save you two gears per track. You would be wondering how often I - of course only after building - notice a mechanism's non-functionality. But to my defense, I only started this technic building in February or so.

Did anybody confirm that the new XL motor can be also used for steering like the new L motor?

Why not moving the PF L motors behind the battery box and the fake motor up. I can't say for sure, but maybe there's enough room to connect them to the sprocket wheels with a single 90° angle avoiding the U-joints. Or you could use the same method as in the 42095 A model. But when you hard-couple both PF L motors, how can you steer the vehicle?

I'd like to present my latest creation: It's WIP and should resemble a Chevy El Camino or - if you like - a Courcheval Hacienda from Interstate '76 Nitro Riders. I took the Superbird as basis for this model and invested two evenings so far. The rear axle was moved two studs back. It has a vinyl roof: ...openable bed cover and openable tailgate (though a little unrealistic, as the bumper moves down with it when opened): ...and I plan to also motorize it. The bed itself is a little holey, but the bed cover keeps it in the dark. I'm currently missing some parts in the correct colors to complete the front section. What do you think about it so far?

Also motorized my mod of the blue car. Gearing is a little different compared to my motorized Palomino - 36z => 12z => 12z instead of 28z => 20z => 12z - making this car noticeably faster: This is still preliminary, as I have some problems with the steering: the tyres touch the parts were the front bumper is attached when turned to their left and right extreme positions respectively. The car is still fun to drive - although better used outside in BuWizz's ludicrous mode.

Two pictures showing the quick & dirty propulsion of the motorized version: The PF L motor is only fixed at the bottom front - so far no issues after a some driving inside, but I should fix it more firmly.

More or less exactly what I was thinking about. Maybe a more realistic reason is to not only cash once on a LEGO set, but to cash forever on a LEGO set (like in software subscriptions).

Do they include the 42077 "base" model?

Looks promising and it's a pickup - really like it! I hope you'll participate in the TMC1 contest with that model. I already wrote it: it's gonna be a pickup fest! Looking forward to the remainder of the body and maybe some more detailed shots of the suspension design? How's the articulation with those steering arms (pictures please )?

@ace_klimax: Cool functions and look (IMO w/ and w/o stickers)! Great MOC. Who would have thought how versatile the 42077 set actually is? BTW, would you mind sharing your digital model of the 42077 rallye car? I'd like to "archive" my modifications and building on an existing model would make this much easier.

But is there a mechanical difference between those two examples? BTW, I only tested with my double-bevel 12z gears so far.

Sorry, bad weather => no pictures. But I have created two new paint jobs for the Palomino: Red with white stripes: Studio, LDraw Red with a little more black: Studio, LDraw

I think that describes it best. Thanks for the hints, I'll give that a try. When I received them, I didn't take the black shocks apart, as I assumed there wouldn't be dust inside of them, so just used a paintbrush to de-dust the accessible parts. I now took them apart using the method described in: ...and indeed the black ones are full of dust. Time for a bath...

Ok, thanks for the clarification.

In light of this thread I checked my unused 20z bevel gears and found that you can even feel the rattling when holding one gear between thumb and pointer finger and roll the other one around it. The interesting thing is, that I could only feel that rattling, when both gears have different axle hole "types" - i.e. left hand left gear type and right hand right gear type as shown in: ... if both gears are of the same type, they don't rattle when rolled around each other. This corresponds with the situation when one gear is a 12z bevel gear, the right axle hole type gears rattle much more than the left axle hole type gears. So maybe another way to differentiate the good ones from the bad ones before assembly. IIUC there should also be 20z bevel gears with right axle hole type that work smoothly (when meshed?), but I didn't find one not in use that works smoothly with the ones having the left axle hole type. Here I've always referred to @Zerobricks picture. I also wonder if there are 12z bevel gears available that "match" the new 20z bevel gears? So far I didn't find one out of the ones I have available though.

Nice look! Also great you're using PF equipment. Say, do you use a subtractor or does each motor drive one track alone? Hope you'll provide instructions. I'm not an expert, but bigger sprocket wheels allow for a bigger radius which I think makes the tracks run easier around the drive wheels. From what I experienced on my first tracked vehicle - though using the old tracks - I also think your tracks look too tight - unless this is due to all the supports. The problem is, one additional track part will usually have a (too) big effect, alternatively you could move the front wheel and support one stud back. But you should still try if it makes a difference, when your vehicle is ready to drive. For mine I saw a considerable difference between tight tracks and not so tight tracks on carpet.

OK, I thought they were only connected to the differential. So when motorized you would put one motor on each other end of the drive lines? That really works, i.e. driving with one side only? Now that's cool! Oh, that's useful. Sorry to bother you with a problem of mine, but could torque flex also be the reason why my black buggy (described in the part beginning with "I also created a V3 model [...]") lifts the front wheel when doing sharp turns?