johnnym

@ozacek: I don't think it looks bad - it's like @Mechbuilds wrote: a bling bling tank ! Though I still prefer the Cheshire Cat version . Hey, maybe add some PF LEDs pointing to the tracks, might give a cool light show during drive.

@Arioh Looks like I also overlooked that last question. I just uploaded the digital version of my modification of your drift car mod as Studio file and linked it from my original post: I also finally started to build your drift car from the LXF - in dark-azure. I have about 10 to 20 % or so - it just takes longer to build from a digital model alone - and am already missing some parts . Fortunately I just made an order on BrickLink that will bring in some of the missing parts. The quick-detach rear (and also front - but I haven't yet built that) is interesting - I would have fixed that with a friction pin instead of a stud, but I think kids will like that, because when crashing their cars into walls or other cars the front or rear might easily fall off, simulating the effect of a crash.

Well, at first I hesitated a long time to buy one, but after buying one and using it I was totally overwhelmed by its performance with PF motors. Before that I've bought multiple train battery boxes and a V2 PF IR receiver which about summed up to the price of a single BuWizz, not to speak of the amount of batteries I went through. Well, I'd say it was worth it to check out what PF offered in this regard, but a second BuWizz maybe would have been the better choice. The only drawback at first was that I could only use it via a tablet (now phone), but I quickly got familiar with the virtual controls and there are also other means like BrickController2 and a physical controller - I just didn't have one that worked out of the box. From how I see it now, I should have bought two BuWizz 2.0 at the same time to benefit from the reduced price - which I'd also recommend if you plan for multiple/bigger MOCs, or four of them, if money is not an issue for you. I'm thinking about racing with your friends, your kids, your siblings kids, etc.. It's cool to watch and control by turns, but racing together should be even more fun. That depends on what MOCs you want to build. If you want to start with cars in the 42093 Corvette scale, a single PF L and PF Servo motor is already enough to have some serious fun. See for example my Palomino or my mod of the blue car of 42098 which both can get pretty fast without a hitch - sorry I don't have a video of it, but trust me . Or see @kbalage's 42093 A (2 x PF L) and B (2 x PF M) model motorizations. A single PF L is also enough to propel bigger scale models like my RC Buggy. Or look at @Didumos69's Greyhound with only three more - i.e. 4 x PF L (though 2 x BuWizz 2.0). IMHO these relatively small PF L motors have more than enough power for even bigger models. I'd also recommend to buy a second PF Servo motor, because you might want to keep an existing model built and create another one at the same time.

Not sure if that's the right thread for this, but I didn't find a thread specifically about LEGO (Technic) tyres/tires: Replacement parts are now available for the 1989 Batmobile (76139), unfortunately the new tyres (69 x 28, element ID: 6262361, design ID: 52985) are marked "sold out" ATM. Did anybody get four of them yet as replacment parts?

Look closely at 0:41: On the left side (rear) between the red 28z gear and the thin red liftarm(s) there's a black part/liftarm, at the right side the red part (= thin liftarm(s)) is right from the black part and left from the black part there's nothing to see. If there was a 28z gear as on the left side, it would have to be clearly visible. I think there's also no room at this side, as the motor casing would be in the way. **** Doh, sorry, I didn't notice that I wasn't at the end of the thread when answering, as I entered this thread from my mail digest. Sorry for the noise.

@Jurss: Thank you very much, glad you like them. And I might repeating myself, but I really like these old panels - I think the ones with the large holes have even more appeal - they seem to be just made for futuristic cars. And they're dirt cheap on BrickLink.

I made some shots to show off some tyre variations. I also made a colorful red version of the 8081 in light of @Madoca 1977's recent vintage monster truck with that cool color gradient. So here we have Fischer Technik tyres on LEGO rims on the red 8081 and the same tyres as before but on different rims on my mod of @Thirdwigg's 4x4 mod of the 8081 (the idea is from @HorcikDesigns and the look from the side is great IMO): The Fischer Technik tyres on LEGO rims also look cool on this one, they have good size and proportions:

@HorcikDesigns: Now that's a cool SUV with lots of details worth mentioning: I didn't notice the third door in your preliminary version from some time ago, that's an interesting solution with the links and the third pillar. And you also made sure the rear lights are still usable with the third door opened. That's something I missed completely in my face lift mod. Just noticed: the upper axle connector of the third pillar is trans-red, right? So a third rear light. It would be cool, if more parts were available in trans- colors, e.g. those small upper panels. What did you use to connect the window edges on the front doors, are these pneumatic hoses? BTW the inclined shape of the doors and the upper part of the cabin is a nice touch. I like how you made the front fenders pointing down again at the front to visually connect to the white bumper parts. Say, why didn't you use the inverted slope at the rear fenders? Or did you want to have the visible studs as continuation of the arch shape? The shape of the center part of the front bumper with the grill looks really good. And the modular bumper is a nice idea. Any chance for a digital model? I'd really like to see more details of the front and rear axles.

The Turbo Racer's car, an AMC Ultra (AMC - Apollo Motors Company) Since I own a Buggy motor I always wanted to create a fast car with it, but couldn't came up with a useful chassis. I thought about a standard RWD setup but then remembered @rm8's AWD prototype and knew it's gonna be this one. I started to build it from the shots available in the video and after some fiddling and a lot of forward/reverse in the video I got a working chassis. The first drive in my bedroom was just hilarious! Man, I didn't thought a Buggy motor would make such a difference. Using one genuinely feels like cheating. But what's a chassis without a body? I wanted to have a race car, so didn't want to recreate what @rm8 did. I thought, why not do something futuristic and through 8386 and an 8272 I had a lot of old-style - but looking more futuristic than the newer ones - red panels and thought that this could be the first application for them. It is a little tricky to use them as they only have pin holes on one side but it also wasn't that important for me to create something sturdy. The resulting body is actually V2 already, as the first version was too low at the front and kept scratching the floor during drive. So what's in it? A PF Servo motor for steering, a Buggy motor for propulsion and a BuWizz for power and RC. I use the old 49.6 x 28 VR tyres with matching rims as wheels. I really like their looks and especially that also the tyres have two "faces", not only the rims as in modern LEGO wheels. I have two complete sets of these rims and spray-painted four of them in black. ATM I am still undecided which rims to use, the white ones or the black ones. I'd like to add some bigger rear lights and maybe some illumination for front and rear lights and maybe an illuminated power core in the future. Ditched that, these cars use turbines and nothing else. @syclone: Hey, would you mind to create an opponent for this one? I instantly thought about your futuristic racers mentioned in: Finally two shots from above and below: On the last shot you can see the steering mechanism, which is also the weak point of that design. When cornering a lot, the connection of the wheel hubs and the steering rack can get loose over time (5 mins of driving or more). I haven't yet find a solution for that. @rm8: Say, how did you fix them, because when looking at the hard driving in: ...your connections seem to be more sturdier as what I experienced when driving my AMC Ultra. The Police Interceptor - an MM Falcon PS (MM - Mars Motors) A super fast car like the AMC Ultra needs a worthy opponent on the road. And this MM Falcon PS is the latest in highway patrol and interception. This car is using the same setup as the AMC Ultra, i.e.: A PF Servo motor for steering, a Buggy motor for propulsion and a BuWizz for power and RC. The chassis is also nearly identical, except for the front axle, which I modified a little where wheels and steering are attached. So far I didn't have the problems as with the AMC Ultra's front axle: even after excessive driving the steering rack stays connected. So I'll most likely change the front axle for the AMC Ultra, too (when I rebuild it - as its chassis was used to build the MM Falcon PS' body on it).

Definitely not strictly Technic but see for yourself: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/community/newsview.page?msgid=1166622 What is the impact of that move? I'm a little shocked to say the least. UPDATE: Ah, sorry, didn't saw that: ...as I usually enter Eurobricks via "LEGO Technic and Model Team" only.

Bigger diameter => more speed? But I think the old tyres and rims would look better, but even if still available from LEGO, they most likely won't fit with the new XL and 36z gear between.

@Arioh: Sorry, didn't saw that update until now. I'll see if that can be done from Studio. @Thirdwigg: Cool mod! Suspension in such a small car is nice to have . But the opening doors really made me smile .

@kbalage: Nice video as usual! I like the front modification most. The overall shape now seems to remind me more of a tuned corvette model, though I don't remember the tuner. IIRC it was a Corvette with a longer than usual front and lots of power, maybe from Hennessey or Callaway, can't say? Say, what gearing do you use? I see 24z at the PF L motors and a differential with 28 teeth, what's between? I don't use a differential in my motorized mods/MOCs (42098 blue car mod and Palomino) in that scale and that gives a nice speed-up. As I haven't used them with differential I can't say if the drive characteristics would change much. Would be interesting to see a comparison between with and w/o differential.

@Madoca 1977: Your models are always so amazing and this one is no exception. One PF XL on each wheel was exactly what I had in mind some weeks ago, but I couldn't put together a rigid steered axle so gave up on that. Now I think I'll reconsider it and just build yours. BTW, I like the black version best - mostly because of that cool looking color gradient. I think I haven't seen that anywhere else before, so 80ies, so cool! Not to forget: nice ride over those smaller cars . Thanks for filming @rm8!

Thanks! You made this an easy mod for me as I only had to change a few things. Indeed, especially when the car turns over. Maybe they should be removed for safety reasons.

Funny idea! Would you please also post a picture of the underside?

@sirslayer: Sorry, but I don't know what you are talking about - also partly in your post before. I merely gave you an advice, how to easily find out and show the scale of your mod(s) compared to the original 8081. And I wrote about what I assumed might be the reason for the (at least for me) confusion about the scale - the small wheels on your car as presented here and here. For reference, here once again what I wrote exactly: ...still wondering what you read out of this.

@sirslayer: If unsure about the scale of your mod - and to be completely honest, from the first two posts in this series with "small" wheels attached, it was really hard to see that this vehicle is nearly as big as the original 8081 as you wrote here - why not create a 8081 replica for comparison? **** I recently purchased a complete 8081 set. I wanted to use this one for a family picture together with my other two 8081 mods. But instead of the original tyres and wheels I wanted to use the old 68.6 x 40 balloon tyres and matching rims (spray-painted black) for their looks. During planning the build I changed my mind, as I concluded that the setup (RWD, pseudo front independent and live axle) of the original 8081 wasn't enough off-road for these wheels. So I searched for a close alternative... ...and found it in @Thirdwigg's 4x4 mod of the 8081. Nice build and mechanics BTW. Geez, that was the most complex front axle assembly I've had so far . Unfortunately I saw a lot of toe-out with the used wheels. This was so much, that it was hard to move the car forward. Not sure if I did something wrong during the build or if this is due to the other wheels. Anyhow I now use two rubber bands to have a slight toe-in, which at least allows forward-movement without much force but also hinders the steering. Well, it's not so important, as it's currently more of a display model. When I reached the steps where the body is built, I got the idea for a different body. And this is what came out: It's still a four-seater, but one with open cab and more angular body (i.e. like Bollinger B1/B2). The resulting body seemed familiar, maybe I've seen this in another 8081 mod or I had a Jeep in mind, don't know. I also changed the normal doors for tube doors. And to allow for more suspension travel at the front I also did remove two cylinders - but there's still more than enough (envisioned) power available. The fenders were extended by one stud on each side and the front bumper was removed. The front also changed a little: the grill bars are vertically aligned and it has four headlights. The remainder is pretty much @Thirdwigg's 4x4, so therefore not for the contest, but just for fun. But still, here are a few comparison shots with my 8081 facelift:

Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)

I think for the small shock absorbers you can do that in Studio by using the distinct shock absorber parts available. I haven't checked, but maybe there are also distinct parts available for the pneumatic cylinder?

@miata92: Thanks for the credits, though I think you better refer to my V10 muscle car thread instead from the looks of your RC muscle car. BTW, great that you managed to get it motorized, I had some doubts I could find enough space in mine. what gearing do you use for propulsion? I see ?? => 8z and 12z => 12z - most likely ?? is a 24z, right? About the steering, what was the problem with my design - actually pretty much identical to the 42093 Corvette's one - there? Will wider wheels also work at the front with your design? I had a similar steering solution in another car - i.e. PF M motor and hockey spring - but when used with my BuWizz it often shut off power (I assume due to stall protection), hence I went back to PF Servo motor. The sideskirt solution looks interesting, I think I'll try that with small modifications on my Palomino. A digital version of your MOC/Mod really would be great for studying your design.

Awesome how you could densely pack everything in there and still keep the differential in addition. Maybe you'd also like to motorize my Palomino in a similar way? But with BuWizz (or SBrick) you can start slow and increase speed "over time" - which could avoid that problem. But right, it's still better to support the gear axles from both sides. If there's no room in front of the gear, would it be possible to make an additional support (2L or more deep) at the rear, so the end with the gear attached can't move too much? Aha, now I recognize it, you're using a pin w/o friction and axle there. If possible I'd use an axle (with stop) instead - maybe 3L with stop? Nice driving! **** With the LXF of the non-RC version at hand and after studying the details of your design, I developed some ideas for modifications in Studio. Here are renderings viewing the front and rear of my modification. Instead of an attached spoiler, I use sort of integrated spoiler - @JunkstyleGio: that part indeed looks cool on this car , great idea! I also changed the rear axle to allow for wider wheels. And I also changed the main color to red, though I'll try to build it in dark-azure, as my red fenders are still in use by my El Camino. Studio @Arioh: BTW the brick-built fenders used in the LXF look really good and are a drop-in replacement for the panels. Nice work. I think the best thing you did, was moving the rear axle up.

OMG - it has a face!

Even cleaned, I have a feeling that the black ones are still not as well working as the old gray ones - even when using the spring from a gray one. I think they also have more slack than the gray ones. And one of the two I have doesn't work as good as the other - maybe I damaged something when taking them apart, I don't know. But still they're working better now than when they were dusty, so a success. Thanks for the advice.

You're right, but I'm more of a "do it right later if it works good enough now" guy. There comes a problem with that: most of my models are WIP constantly. It reminds me of something, but I can't say what... ....or wait, yeah, the Cheshire Cat from Alice's Adventures in Wonderland It looks interesting and different - I'd keep it for the uniqueness alone. And looking back at the other two versions, I'd stay with this one, it's more attractive.