Nazgarot

I would add a sprung cylinder (either modify with a "damper spring" or use rubber bands) as a pressure switch, connected to a pf switch controlling the pump. I would probably drop the tank, and rather use a large cylinder for pressure switch and also let that be the reservoir. But that depends on what cylinder you are using for the suspension. I used a similar, but double working system, as a proof of concept for a medium sized tipper truck with lifting rear axle. On this I used small cylinders to simulate air suspension and a medium cylinder for reservoir and pressure switch. That combination worked well for anything up to the size of the 42043 Arocs. -ED-

This will be the perfect parts pack to finish the Dosan Moxy dumper I've been working on and off with for a couple of years. Moxy MT 36 - https://hum3d.com/360-view/?id=190334 I never managed to solve the placement of linear actuators as they where to short. I recently bought the 42100 and was planning on using the XL LA's form that to complete my solution, but I really want to keep the 42100 buildt... But this solves it all! Those fenders will also be a perfect fit! I also like the suspension of the Moxy way better, but I might be biased being from Norway... :) But really, the Moxy has some very innovative solutions for off-road performance. It has much better ground clearance, better stability and the pivot point is on the cabin side of the articulation hinge. I've seen Volvos on their side in situations that the Moxy keeps going without trouble, but it should also be said that the Moxy cant keep up with Volvos on better surfaces do to not having any suspension on the rear axles. The Moxy has double un-suspended pivot arms on woth sides with one common diff for all four rear wheels. This makes it a lot more stable when loading very heavy rocks, as well as giving it much more stability in side slopes. The cabin is however fully suspended with independent suspension for the front wheels. This in combination with the pivot point being on the cabin side of the hinge and very low makes for a very stable and flexible off-road vehicle. The low pivot point for the cabin section and the upward sloping rear frame also helps a lot with stability. I have made the whole rear body, as well as the front suspention, and I am currently working on a good way to supply drive to the front wheels with their unique suspension in a compact model. I have a solution for mounting the XL LAs, but as I said the current ones was to short. I'm so hyped to continue this build with the new parts! -ED-

Very nice model! I would love to get instructions or a LDD model of this! Guess it should be possible to modify it to fit with the 42098 car transporter... That would be cool! -ED-

I'm sorry, but this is an English only forum. There are many ways of putting lights on a model. Everything from original Lego LEDs to custom Arduino microcontrollers with leds connected. I suggest looking closer at this thead if you are looking for the later: -ED-

Hi. Sorry for the delay. I forgot to update this. Here is my design for a built compact torsen diff. I use the "horns" on the side to wrap two rubber bands around it to keep the braces in place. This is a link to my brickshelf where you can find the LDD file. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=579050 PS: This is quite a old design and might be improved with newer parts. -ED-

Could anyone try this? It would need a little more clearing for the piston, but should work very smooth even though it doesn't have the correct firing order... I have no idea if there is enough space for it, but it should not be much bigger than the original. -ED-

Remove the lifting-cylinder and test it without a load. It may be the seals in the cylinder as you say it worked the first few times... This seems a bit heavy a load for a single cylinder. I would try doubling it after having checked the cylinder. The sudden drop when the pressure is released is also indicating this. A cylinder in working order should not be able to drop the load that fast except if you designed it to actively lower. -ED-

I have more parts than I can ever use. For me this was a really nice build, a very good starting point for mocs, and a few nice ideas for my own creations. Among other things it triggered a new idea for how to control a gearbox combining several known methods in a new way (more on this once I have a working prototype). I find it a nice parts package as well if it can be had for a good price (i.e. wait a year or two). Surprisingly few parts are in the ugly greenish color... And there is quite a number of useful parts as well as 5! really nice rims for making advanced suspension setups on mocs. All in all I found it well worth it. But only for the right price. No way I would have bought it unless it was 30% off normal retail price. -ED-

Well, thanks anyway for taking time to post the picks. I'll have to do some research on this. Could be very helpful in future builds if I can find out why it works. -ED-

That would depend on whether you have limiters for downward travel on the lower arm. If not it could be a problem in off-road situations when one front wheel is spinning freely in the air and there is a lot of torsion forced working on the suspension. With a limiter for downward travel on the lower suspension arm there is no possibility of this. This was a problem on some old Chevrolet Corvettes, where the rear axle could collapse under the car in sharp turns because the only thing limiting downwards travel was the shock absorber... -ED-

Just start a new thread and name it something like; "WIP: Romashkaman 42110 Rebuild" That way you can collect everything about your rebuild in one place. Just ask if you need any more help. -ED-

This would be correct if the steering rack was behind the wheels, but with it in front it should be oposite unless the KPI angle shifts the wheels more/less sharply due to height of attachment of the steering rod changing as the wheels are turned... Se illustration of typical ackerman geometry. May it be an anti ackerman setup for some reason? I can't say it will be a problem, but a deeper explanation of why using an anti ackerman or why I'm wrong would be nice (I always like to learn something new). :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry -ED-

The way I see it 4 XL pull to much power and has to be geared up in order to get a decent speed. 4x L would be more efficient as you could gear them down and still have a decent speed. But thats just my opinion, and you may very well prove me wrong. :) Looking forward to the result. Are you making a WIP thread to let us follow your build more closely without cluttering this mod thread? -ED-

This seems like a good rebuild. But I can't understand why you would use 4 XL motors with their low RMP when you have a Buggty motor available... Even 4 L motors would be better. -ED-

I made somethig similar a long time ago. It works and is quite compact, but the chain really isn't a good solution... It was made before the introduction of technic rectangular panels and the longer pneumatics, and was never put to use in a model as I didn't like the look of the over sized pneumatic cylinders... I have also been working on a solution using the long axles from the crane sets and a sliding 12 tooth gear to engage the third section after the second is fully extended. In this setup I am also planning on using a second gen mindstorms brick to mix motors so that the string maintains height when the boom is extended. I will probably not get this done in a long time as I lack building time, but the ideas are free for all. -ED-

Is it yours, or have you build it? I'm asking because I'm considering buying the instructions. -ED-

I was on a Lego sale hunting for 42100 for € 270. Of course it was sold out... But I managed to get 42081 for € 70, which I think is a very good price even just for the parts. I intended to part it out as it has quite a few elements I need more of, but looking at it I'm considering to build it. I never liked the A-model, and had never before looked at the B-model, but seeing it for the first time I'm positively surprised. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it worth the time to build or is it just another run of the mill build? A-model on top, B-model on bottom. I also found a quite interesting C-model MOC of it... Anybody here have any experience with it? -ED-

How do you get correct ackerman geometry with this steering setup? It seems to me that this makes the outer wheel turn more than the inner wheel... Is there something I'm not seeing with KPI angle that affects the geometry, or is there another way you are getting the angles right? -ED-

Very interesting solution. How much weight are you expecting this to handle? -ED-

I was expectong you to drop some... :) I am just building it. Have found a few quick mods I wanna make, like a 1 stud easy lift. But I would really like to make a more realistic suspention setup for this model. It deserves better. -ED-

It make it a lot easier to do a aftermarket (or factory) lift for the car... The Lego model suffers from this. It's very hard to apply a lift (above 1 stud) without rebuilding the frame... -ED-

Use plasti-dip! It can be pulled off like a thin rubber layer after you decide to return them to original. I use it among other things to increase grip on lego tracks. -ED-

I was expecting something very different, far more superhero like... But this is very cool! Nice idea, and even better execution! =D -naz

Looking forward to this. It's a great idea! -ED-