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JonathanM

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Everything posted by JonathanM

  1. JonathanM
    Nice work! Intrigued to see how it goes :)
  2. JonathanM
    Chassis looks great. Agreed that the second outriggers are a nice possibility, but are probably not needed. Very nice use of the bionicle torso piece - that looks to be a useful part to have on hand!
  3. JonathanM
    Looks great! Hard to tell what the panel stack looks like from the render, but the larger 3x7 at least look good I think. I did a slightly different version but I think yours is fine as is - my intention was to use 5L beams to replace the 11L across the panels, but I think the 4x2 you use might be better, assuming the support for 'engines' is still doable. LXF is here in case it's of use. Have built in the brick and it works fine. It still slows slightly at the maximum movement of the joysticks, but I think better than without the 12:20 reduction. The motor cable is *just* long enough. I routed it under the left large panel inside the 9L white liftarm and under the 11L. Then down the left hand side pretty much exactly where you'd expect it to go. One thing is the 20T gear needs swapping to the other side of the 12T bevel (and 4+5.5 axle replaced with 10L) as in the above in case you haven't done so already - it clashes with suspension arm otherwise. Also, you need to move the 5L liftarm that does the rear rotor tilting - see LXF for how I did it. Really looking forward to see results - the renders look fantastic! I'm tempted to reassemble with instructions to get the improvements :)
  4. JonathanM
    Wow, those renders are great! I like some of the other changes you've made as well to fine tune things. Regarding the #2 connector, you could replace the black pins connecting the 11L beam to the pin joiner between the panels with a 3L pin with stop pushed up from underneath. That way the panels + sides could be attached either side and then connected to the 11L beam afterwards? The 13L beam can then go on after. (Also, if you swap 11L for 13L you could put another pinhole with pin in the last pinholes facing down, and extend the 5L axles that hold the vertical beams behind the battery box to 7L, through the pinhole and into the second panel to reinforce things further). Also, make sure you remove the bush on top of the 3L pin with 2L axle + pin where the 5L beam pivots above the 11L referred to above. The 5L beam needs to move up and down on that axle/pin as well as pivoting on it. I made the same mistake and it took me a while to figure out :) For the drive, I think the XL motor could work, though I wonder if it might have too much torque if blades are held :) An alternate is you could make use of your (good IMO) change to use the perpendicular pin joiner instead of the second dogbone. I think you can have the M motor horizontal, facing forward, feeding via 12:20 bevel through the pin joiner piece (pinhole closest to dogbone) to a 12:12 bevel onto the main shaft. You'd need to use a 20cm extension to the battery box though which isn't common. Jonathan
  5. JonathanM
    Looks great! Not sure if it's an error, but I clicked on the 2 L motor conversion, and the images look like it has the buggy motor instead. Maybe slideshows mixed up a bit? The images for steps are excellent. I think the number you have is excellent for newcomers, and closely models what LEGO does. Maybe not ideal for an experienced builder, but that's not who you're targetting I think (a more experienced builder can always just click 3-4 images ahead anyway!) Great work!
  6. JonathanM
    Hi Steph, Finally had time to finish up the LDD with the various changes. Link here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pqbOh3jCqXFTBRNgLK7XxPMOEHmKjooF/view?usp=sharing This includes the various changes above, optimised a little bit. I made liberal use of groups - not sure if this makes it easier for instructions or not - was just easier for me to hide chunks of the model at a time, and also for rotating parts etc (which I'm not very good at so it takes ages). Maybe it will help @Ivan_M with instructions. Cheers, Jonathan
  7. JonathanM
    Ha, I love how it scurries across the table! Great work!
  8. JonathanM
    This turned out great! Very original. The stickers really add to it as well. Look forward to the final video :)
  9. JonathanM
    I think they just didn't have a nice, small set in the $10-15 range except for the pullbacks, such as 42020, 42031, 42044. 42084 fits that nicely. Also, we know they've pushed sets back years before (42068 was going to be 42051) so I think it was a later decision, but they realised they had a nice, small set complete that could be released this year instead of next is all. Note that it also is in the same scale as the hovercraft I think which is a tempting purchase for those that get 42084 maybe?
  10. JonathanM
    Hi Steph,Yes - the reduced torque is a slight issue, though it is compounded greatly by the rotor not being optimal - your rotor works far better. I've managed to make another one that is slightly smaller and works I think as well as yours - it uses the same pivot points, is 2L diameter smaller, but it is not as strong, but appears strong enough. Not as elegant either! I find with both they need to be about 0.25-0.5L off the 10L axle to get perfectly smooth, else the 6L links hit the previous blade mount still. With that, you can hear the motor start to struggle a bit at the extremes of movement (right joystick up, left to the top right or bottom left) Please excuse the hastily shot video (handheld by someone who hadn't had coffee yet...) http://youtu.be/zYO3dm35QMY For the front, it's about the same stress overall maybe, while also still being stiff enough - part of that is the 11L beam running across between the red panels in front of the battery box, which is connected to the longitudinal liftarms in the bottom frame with pin + pinholes via the axle through the seats. The nose construction is then reasonably stiff as well - there is some small range of movement (maybe 2mm by tilting the assembly a little front to back, and some flex left to right due to the bottom frame twisting) before the A pillars are put in place, but once they're there it's quite solid.
  11. JonathanM
    This is superb - you've captured the lines (and perhaps more importantly, features) extremely well. If it wasn't a C-model it would still be so. That it is built using limited parts is a true achievement! I look forward to seeing more of it in future. :)
  12. JonathanM
    I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but @grohl was the designer of the 40th anniversary logo:
  13. JonathanM
    Is this for TC13? Very cool model - the shape is excellent! I like the use of 2 'mid'-engines and the drive train - well done! The pullback motors are placed up the other way from normal I think, then connected to gears above the red clutch gears?
  14. JonathanM
    Wow, this is great. The drive train is very interesting - nice to see an old school linear gearbox updated with powered shifting and for the dual drive trains. The use of connectors on the bodywork and seats is inspired - the row at the side of the bonnet and along the top of the sills really helps give it shape - nice work! Also great to see the steering wheel on the right side (both senses of the word!) :)
  15. JonathanM
    Hi Steph, Some photos showing some of the modifications. Rest can be viewed here https://flic.kr/s/aHskuEfbCf Mods (mostly minor) are: 1. Removable battery. 2. Minor front nose change to remove small stress on panels - it makes roof a bit higher so needed to change windscreen at sides which also fit with less stress. 3. Larger wheels from the heavy lift helicopter 42052. 4. Drive chain changes to make it more compact. Note that it's geared 20:12 faster than your version which is a bit much for the M-motor. M-motor is also moved back 1 stud as a result. Suspect an L or XL motor would work better at this speed. Would be tricky I think to get the 20:12 gearing back in I think. 5. Use of liftarm instead of axle for winch gearbox changes. 6. Some modularisation - e.g. tail can be removed completely with 6 pins and an axle. Still more can be done on that I think. Will hopefully get time to work on LDD over coming week. Jonathan
  16. JonathanM
    I've just built @steph77's helicopter which mostly uses DBG (and white). I didn't have enough panels in white so used red, and then also switched the DBG to black, mostly due to part availability (the DBG was tied up in sets not parted out). To be honest, I felt the black is a bit boring after building more recent sets that use DBG/LBG or even red for chassis - somehow they have more interest during the build for me? It tends to be easier to photograph as well for cheap cameras, whereas black parts aren't as distinguishable (this is good in some cases, ofcourse!) Sure, not realistic, but it's plastic so I don't mind :) I wonder also if it helps make instructions more legible on print/PDF?
  17. JonathanM
    That bendy arm is ingenious. Am wondering where I can make use of it elsewhere!
  18. JonathanM
    This is really great @Aventador2004! It has a beautiful simplicity to it yet the flex axles really give it a dynamic shape. I suspect that simplicity only comes from a lot of hard work on revisions :) Very nice!
  19. JonathanM
    Hi Steph, I built it over a few days, so not sure how long in total - most of the time was spent playing around with alternate build methods, and disassembly/reassembly when I built things in the wrong order. It's nice pushing the 7L/8L axles through above the joysticks and see everything stiffen up. The tail rotor is super smooth - really nice design with the wheel hub. The LDD is excellent. Only maybe one or two pieces not 100% right, but in those cases it was obvious what it should be. e.g. axle used instead of a pin in one case, and a beam across the panels at the front that wasn't possible to place, but wasn't needed. By the looks there is some modifications since your last photos - the beams holding the winch design is a bit different, and you had a seat on the left. Also you put some ribbed hoses in the top that aren't in the LDD I think - everything essential is there though :) I managed to get a solution to battery replacement - still needs a bit of iteration on the connections to tidy it up a bit so will work on that over the next days. Agreed regarding the rotor design - I have a couple of other modifications to the linkage connections, but it still sees some vibrations at extreme ends of movement, when you push the left joystick hard into corners. The motor is losing torque there as well as I have it geared up 20:12 from your design currently which is too much for the M motor I think :) I'll add back in the 12:20 and see if that makes it have enough torque. Fresh batteries will probably also help! :) Will try and do up the LDD and take some photos over the coming week. Jonathan
  20. JonathanM
    Hi Steph, Have built the helicopter - what a great build! I learnt a lot doing so - thanks very much for sharing the LDD! I've made a few modifications along the way to make the build a tiny little bit more modular, and am working on making the battery box removable at the moment (mostly as my batteries are close to flat from playing :) Will add my changes to the LDD file as I get them into shape, in case they're of use to others. Thanks again for sharing the LDD and developing a really excellent technic build :) Jonathan
  21. JonathanM
    I reckon everything belongs. I find I enjoy the mix. Some stuff I just skip over if I'm not all that interested in it. Different people/personalities contribute in different ways. I read just about all of @Didumos69's posts as they often contain some ingenious part usage. In a different way I enjoy @kbalage's posts as I can guarantee some awesome photography or videography with technic figures to boot. These are just two examples in a cast of hundreds that I enjoy reading. At the moment I'm building @steph77's awesome helicopter, and making some modifications as I go which has been really challenging and fun as well! :) Agreed that the forum doesn't need splitting up. Also I'm another that never hits the main page - technic subforum only :)
  22. JonathanM
    Love the bucket boost - it seems very reliable!
  23. JonathanM
    I think the most useful for a (new) builder is either: 1. I have it built, now want to modify. So what disassembly steps then new steps are needed (i.e. your last one). 2. I don't have it built, but want to build it incorporating your mods. What do I need to change during the normal steps? As you say, the first one may well be easier/quicker than the second, but it depends a bit on the model. In terms of format, video is possibly quickest to make if it can be done in one sitting, but I think photos are maybe easier to build from, particularly to newcomers. On top of this if you have the LDD available as well, then that's a bonus - it's particularly useful for more experienced builders who may wish to alter based on part availability, or to improve things (e.g. 42056 showed multiple people working on improving various aspects, and at least from outside it looks like there was quite some collaboration in the end?) - but I don't think the LDD is much use to most newer builders.
  24. JonathanM
    Actually I meant the five, white 2L pin connector with slot that were in the inner ring. Rotate them about the 4L axles so that the slots (on the top of the bricklink image) face forward so you can see the slots, thus denoting the 10ths. But your new solution is way better anyway! As is the pendulum in black - the white/black combination really pops. Great work!
  25. JonathanM
    I guess a double reversing gearbox would be best here so both LAs can be used at once in either direction. There seems like there should be enough space I think.
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