JonathanM

Love the use of the linear actuator base in the front axle. Great part usage!

:) Look forward to it! I think this would be the first push back with a fake engine I've seen? It looks great too!

Weird how these 'photos' (renderings I guess?) have odd colours. e.g. in 42084 B model it looks like the 48989 pin connector with 4 pins is in DBG, where as in the A model it's clearly LBG (and very likely, as it's never been in DBG). Thus, I conclude that the DBG axle+axle connector on the fire hose is possibly just LBG as well?? Same with the half bush in 42071 B-model (in center) looks DBG, but is probably LBG.

Yup - that's what I was meaning :) You can do it in 4 studs wide easy enough. A few pics of something I hacked up here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FEiHuWACMV5fpJhp1 It looks like it'll fit with what you've got OK enough - it's 1 stud longer by the looks at the front. It's possible to get that one stud back - you'd need to use a thin lift arm across front of engine (maybe the 3x5 triangle, at expense of 5L width for one spot - a thin 3x3 T would be nice, huh?) and then two 12tooth bevel bears instead being driven by just one wheel (as the axle won't go through - TLG needs a 1.5L axle!) Would be a bit trickier to make it strong maybe? Anyway, I reckon it is doable, and would be really cool :)

It'd be neat if the fake engine worked, but it'd need to be another stud wider (or 2?) for that I guess? Maybe with thin lift arms you could get away with just 4 studs wide (I think the fake engine needs 3, or maybe it's just 2?)

Unfortunately seems to be LBG based on other images around.

Just finished building this (I got a bulk lot of lego from a collector at the start of the year - it had about 2/3rds the parts for 42043, and I finished it off via bricklink). What an excellent build - really lots of fun. I love the little details, e.g. the use of the bionicle tooth to help direct the pneumatic hoses when threading them down through the turntable - an excellent touch! Has anyone tried modifying the gearbox to be a directional one? Space is not super tight, but it is still not clear to me whether there'd be enough room as yet (1 stud more height would make it a bit easier I think). I was thinking to keep the controls on the same sides as they are already. The right side (pump/trailer dump) seems easier - the left side (crane rotation, stabilisers) trickier due to the gearing down (which could really be a bit more I guess - could use a worm gear and sacrifice the ability to manually move?)

Thanks for the excellent review. Superb pictures as usual. Milan has done an awesome job at designing this. The B model also looks really well thought out.

First off, I tend to build mainly off instructions, rather than design my own MOCs at this stage, so my main thing is grabbing out all the bits I need for a project from a list. That's quite different from designing+building, where you'll want a range of common parts at hand most of the time. Still, I think that basic principle still holds for my case as well, though the categorisation might be a bit different - usually I'm pulling parts off a rebrickable list, so sorting someone close to how that does (which is a not really consistent aside from broad categories) works best for me. I initially sorted very granularly. All axles separate by size (and in a few instances, colour), pins separate, and pretty much every other main part (connectors/liftarms etc) sorted on their own by type (all colours combined). I used the tray with bins similar to Leonardo da Brick above. I find them too small generally - each little box is too small to get my fingers down into easily to pry out the bit I want, and particularly for some things like 1/2 lift arms, they get stuck next to each other on the bottom of the bin and it's hard to pry them out. It might work better for those with smaller hands maybe! Plus, you typically end up with hundreds/thousands of some parts (connectors/liftarms/pins/smaller axles) and few of others, which can mean unbalanced bins. Now I've started mixing stuff together into larger bins - I use sistema storage containers (common brand in NZ), with sizes from 1.7L up to 28L. Mostly I use the 1.7L and 3.8L ones - two of the 1.7's fit in the same space as a 3.8, and same for the larger bins. They come with white bin trays, but usually I don't use them for storage, though they are useful for sorting while tearing down. I then just group a bunch of parts together in them. Sometimes it'll be just one part (e.g. all 7L liftarms) others it'll be a selection (a bunch of large panels) though I'm thinking of doing panels by colour, as that tends to be how they're used. 2L and 3L perpendicular connectors together in one, black 2L and blue 3L pins mixed together in another. I still have a bunch of smaller trays, but find I much prefer the larger boxes with a mix of items, still roughly grouped by type. As Erik Leppen says above - group common stuff with common stuff - don't mix in rarely used things, as you'll constantly be moving them out of the way.

This is looking great - top work! The improvement to the spray arms really helps.

Great review - the pictures are really incredible, and show off the bright colours superbly. I don't really mind the colour use internally - many of the recent sets do it, and I can see how it might help those that are perhaps less careful when building. After all, Lego has been doing this for ages, though usually with just black/light + dark bley mostly. I think the chosen colours here are just brighter than usual which kinda works given that it's bright all around. The orange 2L beams are a bit odd though given there's no other orange in use. I like that the colour range is expanding, though ofcourse we'll need a number of other parts to make these colours more useful for MOCs. The gearbox here is interesting. How is the connection from the switches to the clutch ring made? Is it with a liftarm or via gearing? I think it strikes a reasonable balance between remote control and the switching required, though could see that operating the crane might get tiresome if you need to rotate it. An extra motor for that would make it more playable so that you could completely use the crane from the remote, but I don't see an issue with a separate switch for outriggers and going back to drive mode. Will unlikely be purchasing this one, but that's OK - plenty of other sets to spend $$ on! (42069 definitely) Thanks for taking the time to do an excellent review! Can't wait for 42069 :)

I notice the red 3L pin with stop on 2L perpendicular block on the right behind the front wheel is not inserted properly in that video.

That steering is a thing of beauty. Great work!

Pretty sure it's 99781 as it's sitting on an angle. Nice work compiling the parts list!

Wow - must be tricky to make sure you have enough parts sourced for however many sets you need to do! Looks awesome.

Interesting that there aren't that many of the newer parts pin with pinhole 15100 (18) and axle with pinhole 22961 (6). I think there's quite a different use of these parts between the different designers. There were more of each in both 42066 and 42054. I wonder if there'll be lots of them in 42069 given it's higher part count.

The thing I loved most from the 42069 video was the fast winch. So many Lego winches are so damn slow. Realistic, maybe, but not fun to use. This one seems a decent speed. Also, Milan is clearly (and rightfully!) proud of his creation. Both A+B models look like they'll be fun to play with.

Confirmed - this is correct.

http://rebrickable.com/build/set/MOC-8003/?color=1&ignore_print=1&ignore_mold=1&ignore_altp=1&ignore_non_lego=1&set_1=42056-1&set_2=&set_3=

I reckon most of the reason is that the builds are getting denser. I feel like there's much more structural form-locking being done in newer models compared to old. The CLAAS and 42066 are recent builds that showed this quite strongly I think - part of it is no doubt the new pin-hole with pin/axle parts that allow tighter form-locking. Having just taken apart the CLAAS B-model I often had to look from a few angles to figure out which was the next bit that should come off to get it apart! I suspect the reason 42068 and 42069 have such high part counts is just that they're quite dense. 42069 also has the tracks, rubber inserts, and no doubt quite a few system parts in the jerry cans. 42070, on the other hand seems quite sparse structurally in comparison (e.g. quite open rear end), thus the lower part count.

Page 116 seems fairly straight forward... Try going here: http://lego.brickinstructions.com/en/lego_instructions/set/42039/24_Hours_Race_Car and copy the link to the page you're having problems with.

It's on the box.

I assume they are medium blue from 42066?

Maybe it's as simple as it was going to be 42067 as part of 2017H1, and they thought they already had enough so pushed it to H2 but it was already too far along to change the stickers. It would be neat though if there's more to it!

Very cool. I'm going to be on the lookout for cheap rubber connectors in bulk :) I'm sure you've thought of using axles with stops (alternating from each side?) to help with the rubber slipping off thing (or maybe even half bushes on 6M axles?), but I guess they're not cheap either when you'd need a whole heap :)