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Mechbuilds

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by Mechbuilds

  1. yeah but with a linear actuator it doesn't matter if you hold the button for too long as it won't damage anything.
  2. Only way to achieve high sales on rebrickable is either to make the most amazing moc ever that surpasses everything made in there or lower the price to less than 10€ and accumulate more sales. People want things cheap. Pretty much 5€ is a price that sells more. over 10€ and the sales slow down.. over 15€ and you get occasional 1-2 sales per year.
  3. Use the small actuator. Wormgear will be slow AND if you oversteer it, it'll break the model because it won't stop. the small actuator has a clutch to prevent this.
  4. @NoEXIST Any updates on this? I can't wait to see how this turns out! I wonder if a chassis can be made that's bigger and uses larger tyres. Perhaps even RC motors.
  5. How do they handle torque if a gearbox is made to drive 6 oars per motor?
  6. Now use this technique and make a viking boat.
  7. You are a very generous and awesome person for providing the instructions for free. This chassis is very modular. And performance seems to be great! This is definitely a build i'm going to make next.
  8. I'd like to message the designer who made the blue raptor. Can't find who designed it from google.. Instructions for the blue one would be awesome. I wonder if he'd share them.
  9. Orange is a horrible choice by lego.. They should have made it blue.. C'mon lego! Blue is a ford trademark color. Nobody wants orange pieces.
  10. Can anyone help me with a gearbox for my chassis? Basically i need a gearbox that has a speed for crawling and a speed for moving around. My axles have planetary hubs so i need to speed up the motor output so it won't just move on a snails pace. But i also need a slow speed rock crawling gear. Space is very limited. chassis.lxf I was toying with the idea of having a lockable center differential.. But i'm not sure if there is enough room.. The lower J beams can be removed if needed but the links need to stay there.. The chassis can be extended by 1-3 studs if absolutely needed. (will affect rock crawling negatively.) I'll be using buwizz.. For motors i'd prefer using two L motors for higher speed and combined torque. But XL motor is fine too if it's sped up a little bit by gearing it for higher speed and lower torque. As long as there is a gear for crawling.. M motor for gear selection is cool but not necessary. I'm terribad at making gearboxes. Don't understand them at all. To me they're just boxes of mishmash and magic.
  11. Actually it's quite logical.. You want the rear tyres to loose grip in order to drift. So you need to take weight out of the rear axle so the tyres have less grip. Very interesting method of making a drift chassis. Instead of using the normal servo steering system, you've basically used a tank steering system. Looks like it's working quite well! Will you release instructions on the chassis?
  12. Some progress made on the chassis. I'm quite happy with the steering and suspension.. After i figure out some sort of gearbox for this, i can start working on the body. EDIT: Yeah the point of the suspension is to have a stiff up and down movement by having the center control arm push the axle down. But still a soft tilting motion when crawling over rocks thanks to the soft springs.
  13. Update: i like this enginebay design but i'm not sure about the bodywork. I feel like it's too wide which will make it challenging to build the rest of the bodywork.. I feel like i could make the bodywork better..
  14. I'm back! I'm currently working on a trail truck. With some help i've managed to modify an upgraded version of @Attika's Ultimate pickup's chassis. Now that the chassis is done, i'm trying to figure out a gearbox for this so i get fast speed for travelling and slow for crawling. The suspension is soft and saggy so i need to make it stiffer. My plan is to add additional springs to the center control arms. That way i can keep the long springs and get good suspension travel while getting no sag on the chassis. Doing this will allow me to have softer spring tension when the chassis needs to flex. But also give me a stiffer suspension in the center so i can put more weight on the chassis. Pictures:
  15. Please share this engine in this thread: Instructions would be awesome! Great work!
  16. Can't wait till you start pumping out larger mocs and maybe RC.
  17. Clean, compact and eloquent. Great work!
  18. How about using these and just putting a beam to connect them? EDIT:
  19. don't be so sure.. I'm trying to build a truck that's capable of rough offroad terrain.. I really like the shape of the axles efferman made. I just need the suspension setup to work... shame that a servo can't be thrown into the front axle but needs a steering shaft instead.. Doesn't help that it's only 1 stud spaced above the drive axle... I'd rather have the servo on the axle itself and just carve a hole for it in the chassis.. Man for the shape and size of these axles, they're quite sturdy.
  20. By looking at the spring mountings, when the suspension is compressed, there is some flexing to the spring part which will damage the part over time.. Can a hinge be added and use smaller yellow springs instead? I might use these axles for a build.. Send me a PM if you figure out. Love the shape of the axles though. Very slim and not bulky at all. EDIT: Also not a fan of mounting springs with an axle because axles always loosen when in use. Studs are better if you can find a place to mount them with it.
  21. Wow that axle looks amazing. Please add it to the axle collection thread.. How is the suspension attached to that axle?
  22. Would be nice for future axles added in this collection to include the suspension so we can see how to attach it to a chassis.
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