Mechbuilds

Wow this is interesting. Love how you manage to fit so much function inside a microscopic space scalewise.

Awesome! Gonna watch this thread for sure.

Update: Rear bed and rear axle + rear part of the chassis complete.. To do list: -Power transfer -Front axle -Finish the chassis -Interior

It's been a while since i've posted anything.. Time to resurrect from the dead.. With a new project. "shocking".. Okay so since @keymaker did the chevy build, i've finally found the truck shape i'm looking for. So after a little bit of copying and also receiving some help from keymaker himself, i've managed to start my own project. Dodge ram pickup: Note: The front mask is missing a couple of pieces.. Need to order those gray 1x1 bricks so i can fill in the gap next to the front headlights. But i'm very pleased how the front maks turned out. It also has that curvy shape on the grille and the vertical gray line that the dodge has. Now i'm quite stuck with the chassis. Since the keymakers chevy chassis is shorter and narrower than this dodge, i needed to widen the front axle.. While this size increase will let me add more functions like springs for the suspension and a differential to make this thing turn, i'm still facing my greatest weakness.. I can't really make solid axles.. here is an LDD of where everything needs to be: I've toyed around with a similar steering solution than the @rm8 FJ-40 has and it seems to be the best solution to keep the wheels straight when the suspension/chassis is flexing when crawling rocks. But if i have a steering rack, i can mount the servo inside the chassis and give me room under the bonnet.. But that also has issues.. The axle will be very bulky and it will steer when suspension/chassis is flexing. I did check for room under the hood and if the servo is mounted on it's side, there is enough room for it to be there and the hood to close. I'm not really looking for insane amount of flex but just a working suspension so the thing is driveable.. The mustang wheels help to get better geometry since i can get the tire very close to the pivot point. What makes this a challenge is using no hubs but an axle connection instead. The jeep tires really fit this scale and makes the pickup truck look more realistic to scale instead of having "monster truck tires".. Any suggestions on the axle and suspension will be appreciated.

Somebody should make an RC version of this so it actually walks.

i'm not even mad.. That B model is heaps better than the original and it actually has functions!

beautiful!

I know i'm late for the party but yeah a different subforum for contests would be great.

This looks very interesting. Did you already try this upgrade on the chevrolet? Do you get any issues with it? Does the servo get it's 90degree angle without problems while using these CV joints? And what about the driveshaft, does it have any issues now that it's not in the center?

looks better than the lego's verison.

That picture looks like the chevy is transporting some tires for a dumper :D

I would love to see more upgrades to this moc.. Or even a bigger scaled version of this with better suspension geometry. I'm already subscribed on your youtube channel and waiting what the next big reveal is. I really like trail trucks.

I would advise you to watch LPE power in youtube and learning proper geometry. We have a LPE power discord server where we discuss our mocs and improve our building styles. I would also be active if you need any help on future mocs trough discord. At this scale it's extremely difficult if not impossible to get proper geometry to the front axle due to the nature of the U joints.. Wish lego would make an U joint with a 2 or 3 long axle sticking out after the pivot point.

Is that 7 long beam under the steering rack necessary? I think it collides with the gear a little.

Your builds are constantly improving by a lot. And i love it that you're active! My only wish is that you keep using power fuctions and buwizz so i can build your mocs

Little bit more stiffness to the body and it's awsome!

You should replace those black studs into the 1,5 studs for a better connection on the linear actuator.

Interesting solution indeed. I might use that leaf spring on the rear axle instead. For the front axle though, it's acceptable to use springs.

Got really close with this one but sadly it also has problems.. It tends to stick like that and keep the bodywork and chassis tilted.. This is why i'm going with springs or pushrod. Independent suspension is childs play to make. But solid axle suspension is damn near impossible.. Also the axle is giving itself caster upon compression which is also bad. I've looked for inspiration on this. The pushrod suspension is much better because you can hide the springs inside the bodywork.. Sadly i can't just copy this suspension for this and even this suspension has issues since the long beams are connected via axle/stud so parts tend to bend when the suspension flexes.

I do need up and down movement as well.. The madocas wrangler only has flex but no up and down. i've gaven up on leaf springs. Either torsion axle or normal springs and preferably normal springs.

This is a pretty cool idea.. Sadly when i built it, it still was too wobbly and too soft for the suspension. Was thinking about a pushrod suspension style so i can pretty much hide the springs in the chassis so the axle is visible without coil springs.. I'm still having issues with the suspension geometry so the axle keeps tilting weirdly when it compresses. Would love to see somebodys solution to this issue. I've tried: 3 link suspension, 4 link suspension, leaf springs, normal springs, longer springs.. Also a big issue is that i want a fake engine on top of the axle. So space is very limited. Also an issue with the steering is that if the suspension flexes, the steering tends to steer when the axle is tilted sideways. Steering rack will give more percise steering but it has issues with suspension flex because the axle tends to stay in place while the suspension flexes so the steering rack naturally moves. Having a ball joint and servo setup instead of steering rack would eliminate this issue but it's next to impossible to have it behind the axle so it must be connected to the front of the axle. Which is different than the T ford has it.. Also servo placement would be a nightmare with the fake engine being in the way.

Already tried that. Couldn't get it to work.

Hey guys! I'm currently trying to build either a T ford or something old vintage car/truck like that. So far i've been stuck with trying to build a working suspension for these axles. I've tried leaf springs and all sorts of things but they always have issues. Either the axle tilts diagonally when suspension is compressed, axle gives itself caster, springs bend and stick because of wrong geometry.. All sorts of issues. https://www.mediafire.com/file/0cbm836eart98fw/T+rear+axle.lxf/file https://www.mediafire.com/file/zxy7sg6oiaubepr/T+front+axle+updated.lxf/file Note: The axles can be modified for better link placement. I've been stuck with these axles for a while now. Asked for help from many experienced users with no avail. If anybody knows how to attach these two axles into a frame/chassis so the suspension works, please give it a shot! What i was looking for is a working suspension with good flex for offroad.

Looks great but that engine and enginebay needs work.

Start watching @nicjasno's videos on youtube. This alone will make you 100 times better.