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ColletArrow

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by ColletArrow

  1. I would love to see dark red windows! Also, if TLG were to release a set true-to-the-film, we'd be getting official LEGO BR MK1s; the ubiquitous British passenger coach. Not that there aren't plenty excellent MOC versions, much better than TLG will ever make, already out there. Again, if a set is released true-to-film, black wheels would be more correct. I actually think such a model would look nicer with them anyway, as the later GWR locomotives always had black wheels as far as I know. As much as I would love for a true-to-film version, I don't really mind if they don't try to make Olton Hall; I think at this point, any steam train is welcome. I've been getting exited over GWR locos now though, I might have to build my own...
  2. Stupendous! The amount of functionality crammed into this model, whilst keeping it highly detailed, is outstanding. I especially love the moving pantograph and doors. Well done!
  3. These look good incredible, good work! How wide is each lane in studs? It looks like a Unimog can just fit down them. I like the red colour tarmac used for the bus/bike lane as well, it adds another layer of realism to the scene. Well done.
  4. That looks really nice! I'm sure when it's built in real bricks, not so many of the lines between the parts will be visible, making it look much neater. When you fire up LDD, do you start a new project in standard mode (top toolbar is a light-ish blue), or extended mode (toolbar is black)? The latter has a much wider range of parts, and no restrictions on colours whatsoever. Although I don't think it has the older train wheels you're looking for.
  5. If done properly, i.e. with proper steam wheels and in dark red, unlike the previous version 4841, I think it would be a really quite good set. I presume it would be a model of the locomotive used in the films, GWR Hall class 5972 Olton Hall, which would be quite nice to MOD back into dark green. If TLG does it at all though, how likely is it we see something looking similar to the last edition? Definitely. I'm really hoping they do release one now, which of course means they won't. As has become my motto recently, we'll have to wait and see.
  6. Do you mean this was added to the T&Cs after your order was placed, or was it there beforehand? Bricklink lists "Seller provided a shipping fee that was too high (not clearly stated in T&C)" as a valid reason for cancellation. However, if the information on shipping was there before you placed the order, I'm pretty sure that's a legally binding contract and you have to pay for the goods/shipping (Bricklink states here that "If you place an order in a store, you are obligated to complete the purchase."). I think there's something about Non-Paying Buyers and consequences, but I can't find detail about it. Here's a link to Bricklink's information about Non-Paying Buyers: https://www.bricklink.com/help.asp?helpID=72. Note: I am in no way an expert on this topic, I've just trawled through Bricklink's help pages a bit. I advise you to do the same, and maybe email bricklink, to weigh up your choices.
  7. Excellent! A simple yet brilliant themed module. My only issue is that the tiny spacecraft are almost lost against the highly textured background, but when they're moving it's not so bad. Well done!
  8. That's good work, concealing the fairly steep embankment. I love the amount of greenery on this layout, it gives the trains a world to run "in" rather than "on". Well done.
  9. LDD is an excellent tool for this, you just have to have a catalog (BrickLink, Brickset etc) open to check the colours of the parts you're using. RE Power: Seeing as you would want to power this beast from XL motors to give it a chance of actually moving, in order to power the driving wheels you would need to put them in the boiler with a link through a turntable-style part (e.g. 61485 and 60474). That may cause unwanted forces as the motors try to turn the bogies when the wheels get stuck, so the tender sounds the best option. How wide are you planning for this? Also, perhaps you could set up a WIP thread, where we can collect ideas for you (if you want them, that is!).
  10. Might I ask what locomotive (if any) your model will be based on? I would say that having both sets on swiveling bogies would be far better; it will significantly reduce the front end's overhang on LEGO's R40 corners and points. If you do go with the Mallet-style rear-set-fixed-to-the-frame, the front pivoting set will need to be on a double-linkage (like the front bogie of the Emerald Night) rather than a single pin. Also, the nose will stick out a mile when it goes around. If you can live with that then go for it, I'd love to see what you come up with.
  11. One of many benefits of LEDs is that they don't wear out easily! When I was referring to "daytime", I didn't mean running them all day. It was just if you wanted to take photos of the buildings as if it were daytime for the minifigs rather than nighttime, you might not want the "outside" streetlights on. But if that's not going to happen, then yes, all in one circuit makes the wiring significantly easier.
  12. I'm following this topic with interest, as I like both the process and result. Are you going to implement switches, such that the interior and exterior lights are separate? That way you could still appreciate the inside details in 'day' time, when the outside lights wouldn't be on. Either way, it's looking excellent so far, and I can't wait for more!
  13. I really quite like the interior of this model; it's slightly different to what I've seen in the past, and just feels 'right'. I especially like the well-placed stairs and walls on the first floor and the open-plan design for the second. Even the rear looks nice to me. The bold colours are certainly different, but fit well for the building's environment. Excellent work overall!
  14. Much better than the previous versions! How much range/responsivity is still possible with the receiver? I might have to try this design nest time I build one.
  15. I think you've done a really good job of the nose, certainly better than I could ever do! I like the colour schemes and the interior detailing. I agree that perhaps just one row of bricks underneath the carriages would make them look a little less high. It would certainly be interesting to see it in real bricks, at least one end, just to see how the nose shapes up. I'm not entirely sure how (if) you could improve the buildability without having a detailed look at the model. Overall, though, good work.
  16. Very good, I like the presentation and apparent function of the machine. To improve it further, could you add a gate just before the balls enter the mold? It should close when the mold is opened, and only open again when the mold has fully shut. When the mold opens and a ball runs straight through it looks a bit odd, e.g. the yellow ball at 0:08 that comes out after the red and black ones have. That might also address @Captainowie's issue. Apart from that, I love the idea behind this module. Well done!
  17. Hmm. It's a shame to have to break up the cab roofline, but it should definitely improve reliability. Could it be possible to change the receiver's position such that it protrudes out the engine compartment's roof rather than the cab's?
  18. Whilst that would be really nice to see, a model of a relatively well known (read: big) locomotive would end up being fairly large at that scale, and (assuming you mean steam locos) LEGO don't produce any wheels close to the size that would be necessary, and wouldn't create a new part as it would have practically zero use elsewhere. The alternative could be to produce a narrow-gauge loco, but how many of those are well-known enough to appeal outside the train-fan circle?
  19. Different builders will scale trains differently, especially given that loading gauges are not consistent between countries/continents. (E.g. here's a British Rail class 08 next to an American something: https://www.derbysulzers.com/lamco101.jpg). I find 6+ or 7 wide is best for British trains, and scales well to my 2007ish standard 4w cars and 6w trucks. For everyone considering 5w cars and trucks, there's some excellent inspiration (and instructions) in @de-marco's impressive thread in town: I think that 5w cars are definitely the way to go, they just take a little more effort in designing and building.
  20. I was wondering how long it would be until another of these showed up! I love the cab and roof shaping, and the fact you've squeezed all the PF into it - I know it's a challenge, I've built several of these beasts myself. Out of interest, how good reception do you get with the IR receiver tucked away like that? Do you think you could build a chassis using an M or L motor and a sliding/floating middle axle? I think the wide wheel spacing from the standard train motor makes it look odd, especially without the connecting rods that are so obvious on the real machines. Also the wheels feel a little small, but that's impossible to do anything about really.
  21. Really you've just got to try different systems and see what works for you; what flows well for one person may be at odds with another's style. My own system works as my collection is small enough for me to know roughly how many of part x I have in colour y, or which colour I'm most likely to find loads of part z to make a mock-up. I think it is definitely possible to over-organise; if you go too far then you spend more time finding the relevant container, as well as sorting out new/dismantled parts into them, than actually building. It's all up to your personal style of work, I suppose.
  22. I wouldn't know where to start with building a MOC like this! The techniques involved are really impressive; I love how the headlights have been fixed in place. The angled side windows are pretty awesome too. Well done all round!
  23. I think the 7750 was also sold in Austria and Switzerland, you can see the country list at the end of the catalog from 1982 https://images.brickset.com/library/Catalogues/c82eutr.pdf On the sticker sheet you have the Swiss Rail logo " <-|-> " OK, so this has been bugging me. If 7750 wasn't released in the UK, why is the British Railways "double arrow" logo represented (2nd from the right)? Especially since no steam engine ever wore that logo*? I suppose the latter is because that was the logo in use at the time. I would love to see what they would have done with today's privatised mess. *Not entirely true - the Vale of Rheidol narrow gauge line in Wales ended up owned and run by BR. Therefore, their steam engines wore BR blue with the double arrows logo, the only ones (I think) to have done so.
  24. I went from a big-box-o' parts to sorted by colour, which even though simple helped immensely - my boxes were smaller, and I knew roughly where to look for a certain part, so it greatly sped up my building time whilst keeping it interesting. For me, searching for the parts is half the fun; I'll often come across a different part, and think "how can I use that instead?". Occasionally I'll keep a pile of miscellaneous out, so if I want a few random bricks to make a test or a support, or I don't care about the colour, I can pick one out at random. It will take a little longer to clear up, but not nearly as much as an "overly-organised" system would.
  25. 10: 10 15: 6 25: 4 19: 3 22: 2 9: 1 A very difficult one, as usual; how do I compare a clock, a bridge and a car? Nice to see the variety though. Good luck to all who took part!
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