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AndyCW

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Everything posted by AndyCW

  1. AndyCW
    Awesome!!! Why two s-bricks? Did you bypass the current limits on the battery boxes? v/r Andy
  2. AndyCW
    Here are a couple of pics of what I was talking about. Using the torque balls (mog parts) is a great solution. There is a reason that Lego went with it for their 9398. v/r Andy
  3. AndyCW
    Using 6 stud links may restrict articulation, so scaling down the crawler may be advisable. What size tires were you looking to use? My current build has 16l parallel lower links, 9l triangulated upper links, and 2x 9.5 springs in series per corner. Great flex and it even has droop. v/r Andy
  4. AndyCW
    Looks great, but gets stuck too easily. I'm amazed at the features, details, and aesthetics that everyone here manages to put into their creations. Mine look terrible. v/r Andy
  5. AndyCW
    That made me smile. I agree with your point about not taking ourselves too seriously. v/r Andy
  6. AndyCW
    I too have used the bar in the back of a tow ball trick to better secure them. The differences between the different towballs is interesting and something I have seen for years, but never thought to comment on. v/r Andy
  7. AndyCW
    How about a Daihatsu Mira Turbo Its got AWD, turbo, and should be easy to model due to the slab sides. Nobody else will do it. You could be the first. The obsession with super cars is a little baffling sometimes. Pick something bizarre instead. v/r Andy
  8. AndyCW
    I use this part all over the place. The two fixed 'ears' make it great at firmly locating other lift arms. I am currently using them on either side of my axle center section to connect the 5x7 frame to the portal hubs. I have about 24 of them in my most recent crawler. v/r Andy
  9. AndyCW
    The sixteen stud links make excellent lower links in a 4-link suspension. The black pieces up and to the left of the 16 links could be used to connect a 5x7 frame to either the portal hubs or another hub. v/r Andy
  10. AndyCW
    Welcome to the Technic forum. I don't have either of those sets, but I'm sure they would make great parts bins to begin your own creations. You could also hold out for the New MB Arocs as a parts foundation. You might want to spend some time with a digital building software suite (if that is your thing) and then bricklink the parts you determine that you need. v/r Andy
  11. AndyCW
    That thing is huge and looks great. What really made me realize how heavy it might be was the interior shot where I saw the floor boards. I can only imagine how much it actually weighs. v/r Andrew
  12. AndyCW
    It looks like a mean little Suzuki x-90. Unless that's an oxymoron. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_X-90 v/r Andy
  13. AndyCW
    Thanks... Here is something a little more recent. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102138&hl=thrasher v/r Andy
  14. AndyCW
    Awesome. The construction is really robust. Where were the u-joints that broke? v/r Andy
  15. AndyCW
    Nice moc. I remember the first time I saw one of these in person. They're huge and the straight lines make them seem even bigger. You could probably go with even less gearing by directly connecting the XL to the drive shaft and having an overall 1.4:1 ratio. v/r Andy
  16. AndyCW
    I think for a model of a mass produced vehicle your truck is admirably robust. Recognizing the level of strength difference between mass produced vehicles and one off tailor made race vehicles is key. Managing our expectations and keeping them in line is often difficult. You have also made me re-evaluate the gear ratios that I use. v/r Andrew
  17. AndyCW
    Thanks for the quick reply. It boils down to what we end up doing with our creations. I let my 6 year old boy drive mine around the yard to find weak points. He can uncover the flaws in what initially looked quite strong. v/r Andy
  18. AndyCW
    Zblj, I am surprised that it is holding together. What voltage are you running the system on? Can it withstand full throttle direction changes on carpet? Can it withstand full throttle/full speed obstacles? Can it lift a tire when accelerating from a direction change? When the tires become blocked, does it stall the motors or break something? Do you think that you would have problems if you went to a bigger tire or one with more traction? Much like a full size off road vehicle there is world of difference between a stock truck strength and a purpose built rock bouncer. I wouldn't be surprised if things started to fall apart once you starting abusing the truck. very respectfully, Andy
  19. AndyCW
    I used his u-joints inside of portal hubs and they have held up. Supporting both sides helps. I tried using them on drive shafts, but the lack of support resulted in broken joints. Placing them inside of the torque tube joints will help. Keep in mind that this is with 2 buggy motors running through the joints. They are stronger than any alternative that I have heard of. v/r Andy
  20. AndyCW
    Ultra4 Southern Rock Racing Series Terracross Lucas Oil offroad racing series Worcs Racing Watch Xtreme Off-Road on the PowerNation or google it. What about UTVs, dirt bikes(motocross), quads, and non-truck based off road racing series? v/r Andy
  21. AndyCW
    Keep the hubs 24:8 (3:1) Change the center section each axle to 36:12 (3:1) Change the key gear ratio off of the PF large motor to 20:2 (1.67:1) This will reduce the load on the u-joint in the ball joint. 15:1 gear reduction on a PF Large seems like overkill. In my experience 5:1 is the middle of the road. Which receiver version are you using? v/r Andy
  22. AndyCW
    The key to having a fast vehicle is weight/power. The PF motors only put out a little power and so weight reduction is a key element. Anytime you make it faster, it has less torque. You could try to gear up the motor with a 20t DB pinion gear and a 12t B ring gear. All other things equal, this will give you 67% more speed, but a 67% reduction in torque. If you watch RC lego videos on YouTube, you will see very few fast ones. v/r Andy
  23. AndyCW
    Are the MOCs in my signature the kind of vehicle you are talking about? I have been using KOH as my inspiration and design ideal for a couple of years. How much of a purist do we need to be to compete? v/r Andy
  24. AndyCW
    I'm amazed that those half bevel gears and CV joints in the rear end hold together. The rear has more torque but the front has more speed. The car has a rear torque bias. Front gear ratio = 1.4:1 Rear gear ratio = 1.67:1 v/r Andy
  25. AndyCW
    As far as I know, the V2 receiver may not withstand 3 cells at 12.6v. You will definitely need two V2 receivers. 2 cells will be fine, but the constraint on the system will be the current limit of the V2 receiver. Yes, all other things equal, a 5000mah battery will last longer than a 1500mah one. A 1500maH battery with a 20c discharge rate can support a maximum draw of 30 amps. This is more than you'll ever need. The setup that you outline has no low voltage protections. Be careful not to over discharge the Lipo battery. You will need a special charger for the battery. My recommendation is a 2 cell battery of about 2000mah and whatever C rating you can find, the higher the better. v/r Andy
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