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Attika

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Attika

  1. I don't belive you, proove it by a video. (I just wanna see it working, so take it as a compliment)
  2. "keyring excavator" You are a real specialist of these microscopic creatures. There is a serious performance behind this build. About the hoses: Different colores has altering rigidity as I've noticed, however maybe an aftermarket product would be the best, what is soft enough and can be cut to size. I suppose you don't like thede sort of solutions, but I thing for something remarkable like this cutie it could be forgiven. About the "poorly tuned" engine: First thanks for crediting. Same as above, due to the size I guess irregularity must be accepted as compromise. I'm just editing my first video about the pickups in which this type of engine (in my case "irregular V6") I've been using. Despite I expect a certain number of critics about it after I'll publish it, there is not much I can do about it as we reached the indivisible size with this building technique. There is still an option to cut the pieces, but then the world goes loud from sreaming purists... Anyway it is an excelent build. Hat off.
  3. I couldn't even imagine that something like this is even possible.... I'm... (soon as I find the right word I'll edit the post)
  4. Glad to hear I'm not alone with my "fix it" fixation. @Limga I guess this problem has more to do with the combination of new and old parts like buggy motors. I didn't have any problem around the new PF connections.
  5. I've noticed it too, but I'm too much of a DIY person so just grabbed a pointy knife and pushed it betwwen the wall and the metal tab slightly bending the tabs inward and the problem was solved. They work nicely since for me.
  6. I suppose in a futuristic bike like this the propulsion can (must) be inside the weels. Electric motors, whatever... Even thoug I like smelly, noisy bikes of these days (preferably a big V2) we have to accept the future is something different. And if they will look like yours I don't mind if it sounds like a hair dryer.
  7. Looking forward to see the video. Hope the test will prove the concept right. Pictures are promising. Good luck.
  8. It is a very pretty bike and I mean the technical solutions at the first place. So I take it as you are back in your old shining form.
  9. I have no idea. Never gone that far. For me the buggy motor- Sbrick -RC LiPo combo is the recipe of speed. Didn't even get close to use other RC electronics. But I suppose if you wanna use those RC recievers, ESC (etc) than you should force the RC servo no matter what. If you make a search on youtube: "RC servo Lego" there is a few seemingly succesfull attempt to pair them up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47JsLXTiusQ or PF servo to RC reciever: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vcp_q1wI580 Hope it helps
  10. Hi again, sorry to hear the faliure. The Lego servo isn't that bad, you'll be fine.
  11. I've been silently following the progress from the beginning since it turned out to be an ASTON. Well built chassis with great functions then as the bodywork begun to take shape and I had to admit it was very ASTONISH. Now spectating the rear end I think there is one word to sum up this build: ASTONISHING
  12. Well this series of experiment and the collected data would be enough for a PhD on the subject. Both the project and the video is well done. (you've got a new sub here) Personally I came to the same conclusion when I've built my ripsaw about a year ago. Less weight means more than additional power. Not surprisingly the recipe of speed was the same: 2 buggy motors, sbrick and lipo (buwizz didn't exist yet). Great topic, thanks for sharing it. And an additional for the twist on your name (balage)
  13. As an archer, owning a compound bow (not crosbow thogh) I find the mechanism heart warming. I do have a plan also to recreate a compound bow from technic parts, but it is far in the future. (i guess) There is always something "more important ahead in the queue. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
  14. And that all doesn't matter as long as it is so BEAUTYFUL. Actually it looks better than the real one. I guess there will be a video about a testdrive. (?)
  15. Hi, What I think is the link shows a totally different battery, not what you were asking about. So it is hard to tell. But to clearify the numbers: Sbrick' limit 10.5 volt. Don' go above. Lego recievers are not even worth to mention with any unique power source, they can overheat even from the regular AA battery box. All the lego motors are 12 v motors, using them on 9 volt is a safety issue for extended lifetime. You've been writing so many numbers that I have vertigo. 14.8 volt Lipo is must be a 4S Lipo (3.7x4) but those on full charge give you (4.2x4) 16.8 volts. That will surely fry everything. I'm using Lipo's, infact I'm using ONLY Lipo's for years now. You don't need more than 2S lipo battery that is 8.4 volt on full charge. What matters is the current it is capable to deliver, and even this "low voltage" solutions are sometimes overheating the buggy motors. The next step would be the 3S Lipo what delivers 12.6 volts, but that is gonna kill your reciever sooner or later and/or the buggy motor. If you have the recource to replace these things frequently (motors and recievers) than go on, otherwise use 2S Lipo's and all your parts will last for years. Or buy a Buwizz that gives you 10.5 volt and this limit is not accidental. That is about the top f safe voltage for lego parts.
  16. Very pretty build overall. As I've spent a long time on developing a cranetruck like this (ended up being my first published video) I appreciate the solutions of the telescopic boom you came up with. Beautyful MOC. Waiting for the video...
  17. Thanks. If I get myself to make a proper photosequence I let you know, but at the moment I barely can keep up with my new builds,so it might take some time.
  18. No worries, I didn't mean to stop you on this noble quest, I've just covered some intermediate solutions you might not concidered. But you prooved that your heart is clear, so all I can say you won't be alone on the road. I'm a fan of fast things too, frequently using my rc buggy motors, Sbricks and Rc heli Lipo's. This combination satisfies me speed and powerwise. Feel free to look around on my youtube to see what is it enough for. (the ripsaw and the driftcar I'd offer into your attention) I understand though the limit is way beyond that (if there is one at all)
  19. I guess you have nothing to worry about. Since I came back from my long sleep (almost 20 years) to the world of bricks I experience short periods with no interest in building at all. Some of these took months. At the middle of the first one I went so far that I've listed my whole collection on ebay. Thanks God noone wanted to buy it off from me. But it has a pay off. When the clouds have gone I had a seriously inspired and successful time. It's like in the Lord of the rings. Grey Gandalf disapeared and came back as White Gandalf, a level higher than he was before... Since then every time I loose inspiration, I patiently wait, knowing that this unwanted rest gives me "new powers" But I couldn't figure what triggers the changes. Anyway my battlenet account is in heavy use on those days. My advice: do not force it.
  20. Welcome here, you have quite a plan. Glad to hear that your dark age is over. Few questions? Sbrick as a Lego friendly alternative to replace the IR reciever? It has bluetooth connectivity. I'm a happy user of them. One of our member (imrvai) made an application to pair the Sbrick with game controller trough an android device. Life saving solution for our kind. Pf Servo motor does a fairly good job, you did not mention it, nor your concerns about it. By using that you have no problem with the fitting. I'm using Lipo's too and frequently appologizing for doing so. But I'm happy with the 2S pack (infact I'm using 2 single cell) On long therm it is a safer voltage for PF elements although I know those motors are technically 12 volt designs, the Sbrick has a 10.5 v limit. As far as I know Lego hasn't upgraded it's electronics to be fast because the main user group are children. If the creation goes fast and far the child follows it by runing out perhaps on a road, and could be hit by a car or something. So the reason behind the technology kept down is health and safety. So long story short, I'm one of those who understand your demands, but probably you don't need to go that far to reach an acceptable performance.
  21. It'll take a week to get there, on my timescale it's just a blink of an eye. Yep it's cute on it's own right, just like it is meant to be. 2 PF L motors for a vehicle this size is more than a lot, especially with the 8/24 gearing. Sadly the bottlenecks are the 12t bevel gear connections. So the weight supposed to be kept down. That's why it hasn't got doors. (or am I just repeating myself? No, I hate doors)
  22. No, you didn't. It's not quite ready yet. The one on the pic is the manual version. You probably remember when we came up with the same gearbox? That was made for this at the first place. It is shaping since... The motorized is on the way, will be published together.
  23. Thanks. If you went trough the story above the video, it pretty much explains your concern. " so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. bla-bla-bla" It wasn't made to be an off roader at the first place. My recent project however: But that is a different story
  24. This is the best real size RC toy ever. Quite a challange in Lego indeed.
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