Attika

Hello fellow Technic fans, let me present to you my tribute model to the well known, iconic set 8880 As a new member I should introduce myself, but I did that already in the forum designed for the very purpose so I just link that here http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134093 and we can jump to the main subject. I've been encouraged by a commenter on youtube who is a member here to share this MOC of mine on this forum as maybe this will give you a rest after the frustration caused by the much anticipated 42056. Don't get it wrong, I don't mean to fill the gap it left (I read the topic too and share the feeling), but hopefully can give you a few minutes of entertainment. I admit it is a sensitive piece of history to touch, but I hope you recognize that the respect towards the original model what was driving my hands while I was designing this plastic homage. Probably some of you have already seen the video on the youtube. For those who didn't let me link it: Instead of making a new description I'll use the one that I made for the vid and pepper it with some images: The original set 8880 has been released in 1994. Sadly that time I was living my dark age (life without lego). Now it's been 4 years that I got back in business, dark age is over and this set is weightly responsible for that change in my life. First I was just reading about it on Blackbird page. Long story short I could manage to get one, and as an old school lego fan (being child in the 80's) it straight enchanted me and determined probably my whole life (hobbywise at least). In the same time I really admire the modern studdless system of lego and it inevitably ended up in the demand in me to build a studless version of it. I've built it first in 2013, but in lack of sources (parts and talent) it wasn't really desirable, nor "smart". Since then I keep rebuilding it time to time and always ends up better and better. According this I wouldn't say this is the last or the best of it, but at the moment this is the stage of its evolution. This is where the name I gave came from. A few words about the details: Body: As you can see I did not use panels but kept the wireframe like appearance as it is one of the benchmark of the original set. Speaking of which I have to admit I did change the shape of the front a lot, even eliminated the concealed headlights due to the feeling that time has passed and it's not cool anymore. But to pay back what I took, I've designed a hood what follows the geometrical concept of the boot. If you listen closer, when the hood opens, the headlights are sliding backward. Rest of the body I think speaks for itself. Interior: Not much to say about it, seats, dash , keeping the colour scheme. Gearbox: Now that is a tricky one. That was the first problem I've been facing with as due to the size of the model I needed a narrow 4 speed gearbox with central differential, but I could not find a decent one anywhere. Crowkillers Paul had the 6 speeder, but it was too wide for my car and Sariel's 4 speeder has been designed for two wheel drive. So I've spent the next month and a half to develop a new one from scratch. Of course if there is a central diff it should be lockable, so it is. And it makes a very compact structure with the gearbox itself what comes handy in modular building. Edit: that was years back. From here it seems rediculously long time, but I let you decide. Here is a deidcated video about this gearbox: Steering: Unlike in the original, there is no ackermann geometry in my model, but please blame lego as it is the field where the part developement goes backward. Anyway the front steering is pretty simple, but for the rear I had to use a rod mechanism, since the compact gearbox left no room for an axle to go trough without compromising the aesthetics. It comes however with certain benefits, as with minor modification on the linking can change the steering lock of the rear wheels. I've applied the smalest as I've found it more realistic. The real life 4 wheel steered cars have only 3-5 degrees on the rear. Ground clearence adjustment: No witchcraft, a worm gear and an 8 tooth gear paired up on each wheel to lift and lower the shockers trough an axle. That's it. Friend of my accidentally discovered (by opening the boot) that this coupe can be converted easily to a hatchback... To be honest I did not consider this as a requirement when I was designing the model. I've made a couple of colour variations too as it appeared above. There is more hi-res pics on my brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=562855 Building Insructions: https://bricksafe.com/files/Attika77/8880-evo-tribute-model/Attika_s_8880_EV_Tribute_by_1963maniac.pdf Feel free to share your opinion or ask about it Thank you for your attention. Attika

Nice finding. I've been straight jumping into my porsche to find something. There isn't anything, or at least it has no effect on the outcome. The paddle shifter mechanism operates only with knob wheels right down to the actual rotating shifting axle. So follow it on its way: 1. Due to the nature of the paddle shifter the knobwheel in it (the upper middle on the vertical axle) should be always + (+ means pointing in the "noble" directions, ahead, backward and the two sides 0,90,180,270) 2. So the next knobwheel what connected to it (on the horizontal axle at the bottom of the paddleshifter) is always x (x means the 45,135, 225,315 pointing) (I hope you get what I mean) 3. Here comes the two cv-joint going backward keepeing the x position. 4. That gives us that the knobwheel behind the 8 tooth gear is also in x position 5. What makes the last knobwheel on the actual shifting axle being always in + position. Just as it is desired by the design. So my conclusion is: On the picture the knobwheels are ok. And it is a 3d modeling mistake the the cv is in an impossible position, BUT when you physically build it, you can't go wrong as the whole system conains only elements what can only be turned only by 90 degrees (knobwheel, and cv) I'm surprised to say this, but this time the designers did well, and whoever made the pic for the instruction messed up the picture. But it can't make anyone to go wrong at the building procedure. Did it make sense to you what I wrote? edit: when I say "always" that means the resting system in any gear

I won't stop sharing, since I don't care about money. It messed up the world already. All these people on this blog could spend their time by making money, but they don't. They build and share, So I don't think I'm alone with this. Bottom line is: Stay tuned, more amazing things will come up.... A real porsche? God, that is an unpractical car... We couldn't afford to change the braekepads.... And it's orange too... Interesting idea with the accelerator pedal. I like it. But the brake system should be disk brake, just to be authentic. Sheepo could manage in his porsche. That is about the same scale anyway. Still I never attempted any kind of brake to model, so I should stay quiet

Appie, you should clean that screen But th main subject is great

When I was building mine, I made a check after every and each step, that all the transmission parts are loose enough. At the end it was and it is quite smooth even in 2. gear considering the number of cogs in the system. My point is: there isn't two identically working model. The building process defines the end result strongly here. yep

For you and all of those who don't like to have a cog on the dash: While I was driving (being a driver) An idea came up... It is an actulal modification of my HOG. 1. Instead of using 8L axle with stop, use a 6L axle 2. Secure the 6L axle inside the upper bracket with 3 pieces of half bushes 3. DO NOT use the pinhole with pin in the dashboard. (sothe last step in the video is not happening) 4. get 2L axle connector, a 2L axle and your desired HOG and push them together The result is a removable HOG. When the model is on display and you don't have the HOG on and the upper end of 6L axle nicely hiding in the level of the dash. When you wana play it (sorry, demonstrate it ) you put on the Hog assembly (what we made in step 4.) and it is ready to go... I'm still a digital stupid. If anyone shares the secret, how can I attach a 133 kb pic here you will see better what I meant.

I far as I can see, yes. As you can see on the video, I solved differently to make the body removable, but thepart of the dashboard and the space under that isn't involved neither in Jetro's, nor in my mod. That is the space what is occupied by the hog sys. I got to go to make money, if anyone is trying both mode, should give us a straight forward answer...

The very same design was in my earlier MOC and prooved well. In fact when I've seen for first the Porsche's original steering I tought that it was perfectly capable to recieve my own system in it. And turned out to be true. Remember I wrote today that I have the concept in my had... Just between us the porsche's steering as it is never could leave my workshop. It is just savage. (probably that word was too strong... or was it? )

Got it! the video appeared. There are so many small things to be happy with...

In the meantime I've finished building, recording, editing and uploading (found some pretty bad music too ) so here is my solution for the HOG steering. Uses considerably more parts than Didumos69's used. I've been trying to enhance the rigidity around the rack. I am happy with the result, but that doesn't mean that matches others taste. The steering wheel makes about 2 turns lock to lock, giving a little bit more realistic ratio. There is an 8L axle with stop, what holds the hog. It is hanging out 2L from the dash. If you don't like that way you can use 7L axle, but in that case make sure you put some half bushes on it (inside the upper bracket) to avoid pulling it out. (that can be annoying ) Also if you don't like the gear ratios, you can change any of the pairs. This ratio is tuned as I like it. I'm not good at video insertion, we can agree on that....

Looks nice and simple solution, (in a good way). Let me ask that the pin with the pinhole holds strong enough? For me it seems likely that it will jump under tork... Sorry, as a new member I should be more modest. Don't take it as an offense.

There is a hole between the two 9L beams on the dashboard, that is where I'll bring it out. Using a black 20 gear as hog it wont mess up the aesthetics too much. (not more then if it is anywhere else) As a side effect I'm expecting that it gives the steering wheel a more realistic ratio. Still I couldn't get around it yet, so don't take it as a promise. I've been using this method in earlier MOC's with quite convincing results. Sorry I can't make it now. This afternoon turn out to be busy.

As I see, pulling the paddles to the end is a basic requirement of the design, as that much movement is necessary to make the 90 degree turn on the end of the system. Locking on exact position is a fairly different story. I am curious however what would be the TLG's official statement about this... And for all of those, who would like a HOG, I have a concept in my head. If the stars are alligned I can post the mod sometime this evening (late).

Thank you. I've made the change. Not neceserally sucsessfull, but in the last two days god of digital thingies doesn't like me. Yesterday the brickshelf became unavailable, when I was gonna post my MOC. Thank you for inviting into such a good community.

Hi fellas, I think I find a permanent solution for the double engagement issue. It is a possible mistake in the instructions. Please watch the video I've just uploaded. Thanks for your attention, give me some feedback how does it perform for you. I have no idea how to insert the video here, so I link it I made it finally (I mean the video insertion)

Hi, I've been trying to make a topic on my MOC but running into difficulties with the pictures. As all my pics are on brickshelf I was going to use that as hosting site, but just by luck it is unavailable in the last at least 12 hours. I've been trying to use my google +, but at the preview it says that I'm not allowed to use that image extension. What should I do?

Hello people of Eurobricks, it is good to be here. I go by the name of Attika and I am an AFOL. My dark age has ended four years ago when I bought a set of Technic for my nephew, the 8081. I made the mistake to open it before I handed it over and that was the first time when I've seen a lego differential and uni joint. (Those things I haven't had when Iplayed lego as a child. And I really missed them.) That moment the monster woke in me from a twenty years long sleep. Since then I buy sets and parts. Building from instructions never fascinated me, so I build MOC's, just like I did in my childhood. Couple of months before I've started my youtube channel under the pressure of a friend who wasn't even a lego fan, but he was rather annoying. So as a part of my introduction here is the link to my videos: https://www.youtube....IdoVUIqWFsEmC2g Few more thing left to say, like I'm interested mainly in studless Technic, and I am a hardcore heretic non-purist. I grab this passion from the engineering side and if I find that a non existing part should exist, then one way or another I'll make it. Still if there is any of these modified parts appearing in the creations that I'll post, those going to be highlighted and I'll share the tutorial, how to make them if demanded. I hope we will enjoy each others company here. Ps: My english isn't flawless as it is a second language to me, please excuse that.