Void_S

It's me again, and let me share some progress: http://bricksafe.com/files/Void_s/42069-extreme-adventure/42069 Replica.lxf Remains only : Steering rack, gears and axles Suspension Rear axle Possibly differentials (I didn't observe them) Rear part of the hull (those doors-hatches on the sides) Interior And off course - the gearbox It was a surprise for me that all four tracked "wheels" mounted on the small turntables that allows them tilt for a some angle (that limited by liftarms ). So, I suppose that it could be easily removed and replaced by a wheel hubs P.S. Green parts are just placeholders. --- Update ------- Hurray! Finally, after some time of reverse-engineering meditation I put "one and one" together and recognized what does mean a strange icon below the left-side HOG gear (right-side is for winch) and why it has a pair of 6L links and "a some assembly made of a LBG 5x11 panels inside the trunk" contais so many extra-panels... Well, my hat's off to you Mr. Milan Reindl! Bravo! It's a really HUGE spoiler I suppose, so I'd like to hide it

As I see, there is no replica of 42069 here, mostly because 42070 was much more desired, so we have an amazing creation of dokludi, that impressed us by the skill once again. However I didn't find anything for "Extreme Adventure" so far, so I stared my own attempt. It's only a thin frame mostly, but the size is correct and you can check how big or small it: 54 x 21 L without tracks. LXF file is already here: 42069 Replica.lxf P.S. Not so interesting, but I found that the rear door has loops on the right side, so it opens to the right and a spare wheel (sprocket actually) looks like a handle of a locking mechanism. Plus I found that it's a some assembly made of a LBG 5x11 panels inside the trunk.

Did I miss any news about possible adjunction, or is it just a discussion? I'd love compact S-motors that could be used for some functions that didn't require large and strong motors, when even M-motor is extra. I didn't face this picture with 3x3x3 XS-motor posted by mocbuild101 before, so I had some other ideas: S-motor. 3 or 4 studs length hull that could fit some small motor possibly with a reducer. It's about the same that this "XS-motor" idea. XS-motor. 2 studs length: one for mounting dark bluish gray drum and one for a micromotor - with no any reducer. A kind of "flat / short motor" that cold be easily attached directly to the necessary assembly. Exactly like paul_delahaye said.

Hmm... What if use 2x4 brick without a short side, inner stud-holders (those three cylinders in the middle) and a hole for the cable as a cover for this micro motor? It should be 2x5 brick with motorized axle as result, I suppose.

Two (bought them once), and use since I got my BuWizz - they turns each and every to a roaring monster. Even slow crawlers may run through hard obstacles with burning tires on a "pedal to metal" mode Btw, where is the poll chart (like "none" / 1 / 2 / 3 / "4 or more")? I like voting by radiobuttons

Well, will it work if I publish some RC monster with just a couple of LEGO bricks attached somewhere? I see that it perfectly meets your requirements

Just received my BuWizz and I'd like to say that I faced no issues with connection and firmware upgrade. It works amazing and only thing that remains is customization of a controls layout for a perfect results. Also, I faced one unexpected situation - MOCs with Buggy motors, now they really needs some brakes Probably one more servo or M-motor, disks, rubber liftarms (Attika's amazing solution) and some LEDs for a brakelight would help...

The same opinion: shorten ex-XL motor also should be more authentic to a real electromagnet used at scrapyards: relatively flat (short) cylinder, mounted on a jib with thread or chains: Anyway it's amazing thing, too bad that not enough useful for only Lego parts (they are 99% ABS, that useless for magnets )

You can put it at the outer side of the rim, not between the rim and hub

And I just realized why: it's 8880 but two-wheeled!

Wow! It's amazing, especially the rear turret, that mounted at a kind of track, as I see. It's literally "Building Better MOCs"!

Well, you're pro then (I prefer 4-wheeled ones ) and doubled + doubled wheels anyway looks much better and realistic P.S. Looking forward to see something interesting once, curves of the Connector Bike are so curious...

Nice observation and clever ideas how to resolve this disproportion: "updated" bikes looks very realistic, but let me add that some bikes has narrower front wheel (because of stability, handling requirement etc.), so sometimes it could be enough to make a custom (watch out for purists ) rear wheel only. Also, it's interesting, that there is an opposite situation for cars there: it's wheels are abnormally wide I suppose that one of possible reasons is a balance between the size and cost: smaller bike with bigger wheels is big in total, but contains less parts and cheaper in production and for customers. Take a look at your MOCs: White&Red is so cute (I really like it! ) but geometrically less then original 8051 and another one, White&Black that shares the same wheels, needs much more parts for a chassis and even more for a similar livery. So, realistic look versus economy...

Another question (my BuWizz still didn't come): how it works with Servo? I watched a lot of videos and didn't observe any difference for a max steering angle between slow-normal-fast modes. Is it true of did I miss something? I suppose a possible reason is different voltage on power (outer) pins, not on control (inner) ones that controls this parameter for Servo (and other stuff as well). Did some one check these (inner) pins on slow-normal-fast modes?

I expected such inconvenience since TLG called two completely different gears by a same name: "Clutch gear". Seems that you're talking about combination of a black 12T gear and white 24T Clutch gear (Slipping gear), whereas Madocca told about combination of red Driving ring 2L and 16T Clutch gear that placed behind this 12T-40T combination (16T partly invisible). Hope that he put a Dark-Gray 16T instead of a new Red that could add even more friction.

Yes, and I suppose that space between upper (red) and middle (white) triangle panels may perfectly fit it: like a thin headlight line and huge "maw" below for a better cooling. It should be very aggressive! Also, possible I'd swap these triangle panels to make a completely red half bumper - half front spoiler with a while bonnet (or trunk?). Just my opinion And now, with seems to finished bumpers, I'd like to say that length to width ratio looks much better. Way to go, Aventador2004 !

Well, maybe a stupid question, but how it works just with a Lego LED? I suppose that it must be activated from the application and there is no way to set some socket active by default and use it like a simple power source like it was for LiPo and other PF batteries (LED requires power on the main and control lines both). Isn't? I'm still waiting for my piece of power and wondering if someone has already tested it.

Well, it's "911 Panamera" actually . It sounds and looks like a hybrid of those two cars, and yes, all possible engines for Panamera are V-type: V6 and V8.

Yes, because this part (32137) and especially connections with it, that pretended on a kind of multi-functional and easy-to-use in 1999 sets, turned out to be a weak and unsuccessful at all. So, it was discontinued immediately.

Fixed, thank you. Almost forgot about this variety for the LiPo

Right, it's combination of 42039/38 and 9397 sets, following to Jonfensu replies. So not, it's not a C-model. Moreover it even looks much bigger than just a single 42039.

It's here:

aeh5040, it's so close, that even LDD allows it with a small exclusion: you won't add one of a black pins (only 3 of 4 could fit here) because of a small delay between the 2x4 L-Liftarm and 5x7 Frame:

Egor, thank you for a great review! My little inner gremlin is happy and will avoid of BuWizz disassembling. To recap, let me provide a sort summary in English: First of all, the power: Slow mode - 5.2 V. Unfortunately it's only mode that works by default without BuWizz app loading, so it's a voltage, provided as a power source only. Otherwise you'll need to control BuWizz and another device (Sbrick or IR receiver) as well. Normal mode - 7.3 V. Initially it was about a usual voltage of Lego power sources (or supposed to be at least), but now it's lower. LiPo (for reference) - ≤8.3 V (8.3 - only fully charged). In the middle between Normal and Fast modes, as you can see, but will actually should be closer to Normal mode during the play. Fast mode - 9.3 V. And no Ludicrous mode, as we didn't beat a necessary amount :) There is a chart that could help with a better understanding: It was higher for a prototype, but Egor explained that one of his BuWizz bricks burned down because of two buggy motors installed at this green Off-roader that drifted so nice. Therefore it's not so monstrous now, but stable and shouldn't burn something :) Hopefully they will adjust these values a bit in further. And other values from 18:39 time point: Output Voltage: 5-10 V, stabilized Max continuous power total: 40 W Max continuous current per channel: 3A (each channel has an independent motor driver DRV8833) Max current per channel: 4 A (a peak one) Battery capacity: 6.5 Wh (two 850 MAh batteries)

Wow, what a brilliant design! It looks great even despite the size - even pure legal connections could make a trick. Well done jaschka xxl ! Regarding photos - try http://bricksafe.com or https://www.flickr.com/ resources. You may upload a lot of photos (I really wait for it) without consuming of free space at the forum (it's quite limited and I feel that Jim is coming ).