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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. That part is not available in orange. Also not in white. I optimized parts usage for red or black bodywork. If you want to build this with mostly Porsche parts, then I think it's best to go for an all black body with orange accents. But please note that this is still work in progress. I still need to build the body and I'm sure things will change down the road.
  2. Before I ordered parts for the body I did quite some rework on the self-reliance of the body and the way it is attached to the chassis. Some constructions in the roll cage were only friction-locked. For instance the slanted red liftarms just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels (I like to refer to these sections as the vehicle's shoulders and hips ). Those sections partly relied on connections with 2L axles. To make these sections form-locked I made sure the slanted liftarms are now also secured with 2x4L and 3x5L liftarms that point inwards. That should make sure you can not only carry the vehicle by the roof, but also by the shoulders and hips. For those who are interested, here is the latest LXF-file of the body. And here is the latest of the chassis and here the latest of the complete model (note that this is still work in progress).
  3. Thanks for sharing your WIP with us! A few more pictures would be nice. Best way to do that is to upload your images to Bricksafe.com or Flickr and then simply paste the links into your post as text. The images will be automatically inserted.
  4. I had a little fear for that too, but they don't. They sit there for over a month now and they never showed any signs of sliding out. And believe me, I did compress the suspension a thousand times, also only left or right. The angle averages around 90 degrees. Something different: I made a short ruggedness-test-video. Sorry for the bad quality and the noise - kids are watching LEGO Ninjago in the background - but I think it speaks for itself . https://youtu.be/z0oXcapgf2Y
  5. It is indeed the kind of puzzle that I like to break my head on , The more general observation is that the main gear layout difference between the two variants is that the sequential variant needs a small gear reduction between the clutches and a high(er) reduction between both ends of the diff and the manual variant needs a high gear reduction between the clutches and a small(er) reduction between both ends of the diff. I understand. I didn't mean you should change your setup. I meant to say that in my case it doesn't need to be that compact. I also use the longer type of clutches which adds another stud. But what you could do to slightly improve the play in the red clutch gear in the front section would be to replace it with a normal 16t gear attached to a pin with axle (without friction ridges). Now both ends of your normal pin (without friction ridges) add to the wobbliness.
  6. I made the necessary changes to the chassis to make it ready for the body. This includes the attachments of the bumpers. Only need to replace a few more parts in the dashboard and seats to make them completely black. Now I'm waiting for parts to continue with the body.
  7. Even better. Completely form-locked, does not rely on friction .
  8. Yes they are entirely separate. You only need the 403 parts for the ultimate version. For the minimal version you only need the 30 parts. @RISCy, @Tecon, sorry for this late response. To be honest, I have moved on to my next project, so I'm afraid the lockable doors will not be implemented any time soon. There are by the way two lockable door versions that I know of and the one that I had in mind was in fact @DayWalker's version. In my opinion the one that can be found on youtube comes too close to the left paddle shifter. The one shared by DayWalker uses silicon bands. But the main reason to not include the lockable doors is that I simply don't get to it. You could of course always apply one of the versions yourself. As for the instructions: I do not plan for full-blown instructions. I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4 which are needed to make the body removable.
  9. Thanks! To make mine manual I would move the axles with the 8t gears that mesh with the 24t side of the diff half a stud outwards and replace the 8t gears with 16t gears. And I would replace the 20-12 mesh in front of the clutches with a 24-8 mesh. That way it would more or less boil down to your layout. We've build two gearboxes independently that are each others direct shifting / sequential shifting counterparts . I guess that's the funny finding you are referring to? I would in my case hold on to the centered input axle though.
  10. You're gearbox layout is not much different from the one I developed for my Rugged Supercar - yours is more compact of course - so you could have a look at the sequential shifter I use. It will probably take too much space, but it could be a source of inspiration, see video link below. And you do need to somehow make sure one clutch operates 1st and 3rd gear and the other 2nd and 4th gear. Here's the LXF-file of the entire chassis, but please note that this is work in progress. https://youtu.be/mWmSTUbncdM?t=45s
  11. I like 4x4 gearboxes that take advantage of both outer gears of the center diff. I'm not a big fan of all these half stud offsets, but it certainly is compact. Nice work!
  12. Nice build and interesting suspension! I love your constant pursuit for uncommon suspension setups .
  13. Given the level of detail of this model, I can imagine that applyinmg stickers - even the third-party ones - actually add something. I never apply stickers myself, but that's not important. @brickhank, good to know that you actually finished this MOD. Building Paul Boratko's Scorpion as a next step seems like a good choice to me! And after that of course my Rugged Supercar .
  14. I must have missed his excellent model in April. I love this car, it was a game-changing rally car back in the seventies. Thank you @Thorsten for the instructions!
  15. That is going to be massively interesting! Anxious to see what this is going to bring forward. I would combine all tints of blue with white.
  16. I updated the chassis-only LXF-file that I'm sharing on the OP to reflect all changes necessary for the body. Note that it fails two white silicon bands and uses placeholders for the Porsche hubs, rims and tires.
  17. Thanks! Yeah, they heave the same genetics. For this one I'm particularly proud on the drive train. It's simple, runs with minimal friction and the shifting mechanism works flawlessly. Thanks! I can't deny having taken a good look at 8880 when I started with the body, but i didn't look at it since. I quickly arrived at the conclusion that redoing 8880 would go against the flatness of the chassis. That the lines of the doors and the rear side of the cabin - which emerged only last week - coincide with the ones in 8880 this much, must have been the result of some kind of unconscious mechanism. The fact that the H is the 8th letter of the alphabet is a mere coincidence, even though it is a remarkable fact. It must have been the Hand of God , LOL. 8880 indeed has two more functions, but I'm not going to pursue a 8880 revival. I think @Attika has done a great job on that already. Thanks! The chassis is currently mostly DBG. Yeah, let's see what it looks like in real life.
  18. Thank you all for thinking with me . I go with the argument that the characteristic lines of the body go lost in the all black version. Actually, it was not my intention to have a vote on the color scheme, but your feedback is welcome anyway. I will - without a doubt - stick to the red / black scheme, but I will keep the idea of having a '8880 tribute edition' in the back of my mind. The only thing I will take from this at this point is that I will try to make sure that a full black or a '8880'-ish color scheme are possible without making too many changes to the model. I'm more and more tempted to plan for instructions for this MOC and it would be nice if people could pick their favorite color-scheme. The #2 connectors (yellow in the 8880-version) could for instance be replaced by normal liftarms. But I would like to say one more thing. Coming to the current color-scheme and body-layout has been a delicate process of tuning and retuning while trying to stay away from exaggerated finery. The focus is best described by terms like 'minimalistic' and 'concept car'. I would especially like to thank @agrof and @Lipko for helping me staying on the right track and dragging me back to that focus again and again; you're help is very much appreciated ! It is also for that reason that I'm quite receptive to the remark of @agrof on big logo's being exhibitionist. Don't be surprised if I will drop the logo entirely anytime soon .
  19. I don't think I will, but it's a nice thought . Personally, I like the red curves in the red one better, but when others would build this it can be done in black. I'm not going to add the liftarm to the door. It is a concept car with minimal body and I promised some guys not to ruin that concept. I thought black 2L axles were quite rare, but it would certainly look better. The resemblance is indeed stunning! I must admit I had a good look at 8880 when I started with the body, but I never realized it evolved into something that has so much in common with 8880. This was not intended, But now that it looks so much like 8880, I would like to take this opportunity to make this version my Technic 40th anniversary present to the LEGO community! The only thing I had to do to make these renders was some recoloring and dropping the panels in the site skirts. Click to enlarge.
  20. All black would be an option. I scanned quickly and believe all parts exist in black (maybe in this case DBG logo's would look better ).
  21. Thanks! I tend to agree with you. The idea was to have the logos blend more, at least that was as I understood @agrofs suggestion, but the effect appears to be the opposite. I will revert to the red logo's. I do not have a real preference. I needed the Porsche wheels and wheel hubs to realize AWD with ackermann steering, so the choice to go large scale was quickly made. However, the exact scale is 1:9 in this particular build. Update: I made some renders with open doors and open trunk, but in the process of doing that I noticed I had some cleanup to do in the area just underneath the spoiler. I updated the LXF-file behind the link I shared a few posts back.
  22. Thanks! Great suggestions! I made the H-logo DBG. I also tried the narrow H with thin liftarms, but that looked way to fragile for this car. To make this look okay in the grill I replaced the 7L LBG axle in the grill with two dark tan 3L axles with knob. That gives a little more contrast with the DBG H. I also colored the two bushes just above the rear bumper red, but I'm not completely convinced. I also like the idea of having a split between the left and right red curves, just like in the nose of the car. I will decide on all these small twists when I'm building the real body. I'm about to order the parts I need and when I have them I will start building right away. I'm really excited to build this in real life! About the exhaust pipes you were hoping for, I did attach pipes directly to the engine, a bit similar to what @Paul Boratko did in his Scorpion. I'm not so much into these kind of decorations. I like the trunk and especially the black copy of the Porsche luggage bag as an ironic wink to the Porsche . Btw, here's the latest copy of the LXF-file. Feel free to comment on things or change things. One thing I'm not happy with yet, is the way the doors are mounted. I'm a bit reluctant in sharing it, because I didn't build the body yet, so things will probably change. So please don't share it with others. (There are still old copies of my ultimately playable Porsche moving around the internet, which can be quite confusing for people that are interested.)
  23. Nice 'exaggerated' proportions! These communicating axles - nice feature btw - make the body average between the axles. Actually the whole setup behaves like a differential. This type of communicating suspension is quite common in Mars vehicles, but then sideways. For example the Rocker-Bogie suspension:
  24. Okay, thanks again for thinking with me. I agree, but I couldn't help incorporating the idea I had. The spoiler had to be fixed better anyway; it's position relied on a single friction point. So I made a few changes to support the spoiler better and at the same time replaced the black liftarms that hold the spoiler with bent liftarms and between the slanted ends of these liftarms I inserted the H-logo. So now the spoiler and the logo-extension together serve as openable trunk cover. And finally I added 4 exhausts. And this is where I will stop... from now on only cleaning, revising, removing etc., i promise . @agrof, I moved the connectors to the bottom the rear window. For a single axle i would need an 11l axle, which are not available in black. Thanks! Here's a cutaway showing all bent liftarms I used . I count 42 instances.
  25. This means the motorbike tires are a no-go. Thanks for investigating this! Thanks! I guess it is kind of new - as in unprecedented - however I do think there won't be a wide audience for this. I don't think I will do full-blown instruction, unless I find someone willing to do that for me, but I will certainly share the final LDD-file and maybe a photo sequence. That's a great compliment! To me 8880 was epic and served as the bridge between old Technic and new Technic. Thanks for thinking with me! Great to know you have plans for something panelless too! I have taken your advice and completed the black split in the front. I did however hold on to the H in the grill That's also a great compliment Lipko. I would never have thought this project would evolve the way it did. Short update:I lifted the spoiler (as was suggested by @schraubedrin) by one stud. It's still not a wing, but I think it looks better and it gives some space between the rear lights and the spoiler. For the rear light I took @agrofs idea, only a little higher so it does not collide with the wheels when the suspension is fully compressed. I also had to move the slanted red lines more inwards, but I think it still perfectly fits the overall lines - very nicely emphasized by @proran - of the car. Next step will be to add a trunk door. Would be nice if I could integrate a red H in it. Let me show you my a-s-s :
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