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Didumos69

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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    So there can be no doubt we are talking about a mathematically sound fit!
  2. Didumos69
    It must be related to the incircle of a triangle, which divides each triangle in 3 perfect kites (a square is also a perfect kite). The radius of the incircle equals the area of the triangle divided by half the sum of the side lengths. In case of the (3, 4, 5) triangle this radius is 1. This is illustrated by Erik's dotted triangle a few posts back.
  3. Didumos69
    Which can be easily constructed using 2x4L liftarms. This closes the circle - or should I say 'triangle' - very nicely, thanks!
  4. Didumos69
    There is an even more compact way to get the same angle. The trick is that you need to construct a kite-shape from two right triangles with one leg twice the length of the other leg: I'm afraid you're still showcasing and not proving the theorem. This is the easiest visual proof I know. The green and orange triangles sum up to equal areas in both the left and right situation. Hence the gray squares must also sum up to equal areas. In other words, c^2 must be a^2 + b^2.
  5. Didumos69
    Very nice overview! Although some of them aren't perfect.
  6. Didumos69
    Others probably did, but I never realized this actually makes a perfect fit. This means that you can construct the angle of an angled liftarm - which suites the Pythagorean triple (3-4-5) - with a right-angled 3x5 liftarm. Might be useful.
  7. Didumos69
    This could actually work. You do need to secure the worm gear properly and you will get a lot of slack, as @BusterHaus already pointed out. Instead of using a worm gear you could also play with friction to reduce bump steer, for instance by using to hold the pinion. This approach was also used in the Go-Kart Creator set (31030, LXF in this post) - in a gear / gear rack setup - and manual steering still worked pleasantly. When you gear down, the servo should be able to overcome the extra friction. You might even try to apply the friction to an intermediate axle closer to the steering wheel.
  8. Didumos69
    I updated the extra parts list to reflect the latest changes to the LDD-file.
  9. Didumos69
    I updated the LXF-file to reflect several of your suggestions. I also replaced the 1L beam in the seats with black bushes, because the 1L beam is not available in black. I have all the parts available so when I find the time I will also update the real life build.
  10. Didumos69
    Welcome back! As for the second question: I did some modding on the Porsche and from the lessons learned I'm working on a new MOC .
  11. Didumos69
    Brilliant ! Merry Christmas to you too and to everybody here on Eurobricks!
  12. Didumos69
    Yes, the springs roughly contribute half of the resistance right now. Eventually I expect to revert to the harder springs when I add the body. Then the springs will put in most of the resistance and the torsion bars are only for finetuning. If I would use harder springs right now the suspension would be too rigid. I'm using the torsion method for over 30 years now and I never broke a part with it. When you don't push the suspension to the limit on every occasion the parts fixing the torsion axles should be okay. I have more fear for the axles themselves, also after reading @zux's experience with his RSW model. When people are reluctant to use torsion bars, they can easily skip them and simply use hard springs. I will keep a close eye on the parts at stake here and if it turns out they cause damage I will probably skip them entirely. The basic idea is to get suspension that actually works when you push the car over a bumpy or otherwise uneven surface, not too rigid, not too sloppy.
  13. Didumos69
    Okay, thanks for pointing this out. I will check the torsion axles occasionally. They have not deformed sofar. If they do show signs of deformation at some point I will revert to the hard springs and hope I can hold on to the torsion axles just as a means of finetuning the suspension resistance.
  14. Didumos69
    Thanks! That's for sure less motley than my version. The only issue is that working with DBG feels a little bit like 'my signature', even though I wouldn't want to claim I'm the only one. And most of my liftarms are DBG. But apart from that I will adopt most of your suggestions, like the yellow shift lever, the black dash and seats. And I will drop the use of red and black beams in the chassis. Thanks again !
  15. Didumos69
    In my perception the red Porsche springs are as hard as the usual yellow hard springs. I indeed use red springs too, but with normal hardness. Sorry, wrong emoticon, I'm actually quite content with it . I only do 'too wide' images when the height is under 500 pixels. I think the main concern is that pages don't get too long to scroll and image sizes in terms of MB don't grow too big. But I downsizes it nevertheless . I agree, the substitutes are a pain in the eye, but they do add proportional justice to the chassis.
  16. Didumos69
    To get started with the body in LDD, I added tires that mimic - and match the exact diameter of - the Porsche tires. This gives a nice render showing how 'low profile' (flat) the whole thing is (click to enlarge).
  17. Didumos69
    Good to know this worked out fine for you! Thanks for letting me know .
  18. Didumos69
    The Porsche has hard springs, this one has normal springs. I started with hard springs, but that was far too rigid. Only after replacing them with normal ones the anti-roll bars and the torsion bars started to make a real contribution to the suspension characteristics.
  19. Didumos69
    They fix the axles holding the upper wishbones. These axles serve as torsion bars. I deliberately used normal shocks which are too weak to carry the car by themselves. The nice thing about torsion bars is that their resistance starts subtle and increases fast when they get twisted. This makes dropping the car possible without having the bottom of the car touch the ground. And the shocks actually work as absorbers this way. They absorb the jumping spring effect of the torsion bars. They also make it possible to finetune the suspension by adjusting the way each torsion bar is secured. By using different parts for the front and the back I could incorporate a subtle rake angle. The torsion bars in the front have been secured a little more relaxed than in the back. Here you can see the difference between 'torsion bar attached' (left) and 'torsion bar detached' (right):
  20. Didumos69
    It makes the wheel on the inside of a turn follow a circle with smaller radius than the wheel on the outside. This reduces tire scrub. You can actually feel the difference in playable Technic models. Theoretically the offset I use is a little too much, but it comes far more close to the ideal situation than with no offset at all.
  21. Didumos69
    Yes, I did scale this car. To 1:9 to be precise. The car that I used as a reference is 4.5m long and 2.07m wide and has a wheelbase of 2.7m. This scales to a total length of 63 studs, a total width of 29 studs and a wheelbase of 38 studs. The wheelbase and the width is the same as in Paul Boratko's latest model. It was indeed the red 'FST NML'-car from Zootopia that got me started, but I also mentioned that it might turn out completely different. I simply like to have some design freedom. The point is that where others feel comfortable with bodywork based on 'whatever fits' I have the irrepressible urge to fit everything together legally, preferably on a perfect 1-stud grid. I know we have entered the era of 'closed' bodywork, but somehow I tend to think more in the direction of a minimal body with big holes that show what's inside. Something that captures the essential lines only. Thanks! I'm afraid it will never be finished ... About it being 'low profile', when I remove dashboard, HoG, seats and engine, it can in fact ride upside-down . Here are some images showing the rigidity. Most of the level difference is anticipated by the suspension, only a small portion by longitudinal twist: I realized Ackermann steering by off-setting the steering pivots of the (Porsche) wheel hubs by one stud. Like this: I agree. Seats and dashboard should stick out, they are part of the interior. Maybe the cover top side of the mid-console too. Black seems like the most likely candidate.
  22. Didumos69
    I really enjoyed watching this video! Especially the second half with the slow motion images of the vehicle taking the doorstep. I could have watched that for another 10 minutes . This shows that suspension in a supercar-like vehicle actually makes sense. I also like the ground clearance. Many others throw in a set of suspension arms and a handful of shocks and claim their vehicle has suspension. Great to see someone around who has an eye for suspension characteristics in an on-road vehicle .
  23. Didumos69
    Over the last 7 days I found some scattered moments to make sure the chassis fully embeds the seats and the H-frames supporting them. In that process I also incorporated several 5x7 angled liftarms to reinforce the way the front and rear modules are connected to the mid-section of the chassis. This reduced longitudinal twist significantly and made the red diagonals (based on Pythagorean quadruples) unnecessary. I did hold on to the ones in the back though, simply because they did not collide with other changes, but I might eventually drop those too. As for the HoG steering. I decided to leave it the way it is right now. I tested it with an extra kilo of weight and after gearing down by another 12:20, both steering wheel and HoG still worked satisfactory. It remains to be seen how heavy the build will be when it's finished, so I undid the extra gear reduction for now. That simply feels most playable right now and gives me an overall gear reduction of 12:20. A few more images: LXF-file (with placeholders for the Porsche wheel hubs!) can be found here. Comments and (suggestions for) improvements are welcome.
  24. Didumos69
    I love it! These kind of little functional creatures leave little room for arbitrary design decisions. Well done!
  25. Didumos69
    No it does not. I incorporated this in my ultimately playable Porsche for which I have an LXF-file available. You would need alot of extra parts though. But you could also consider starting with the 'must-have'-mods only and build the model following these errata. You only need a handful of extra parts for that version.
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