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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Okay, decision time. Even though I like the suggestion of @Jeroen Ottens to make the doors black - it makes them blend with the rest of the cabin and emphasizes the red curves running from head to tail - I decided to stick to the sharp red/black division. I like the inclined plane drawn by this division and it adds to the appearance of the whole build. Black doors add too much to the buggy-vibe and even though I like the buggy-vibe, I want this to be a supercar in the first place. I decided to go for the DBG/LBG seats. They stand out, but not too much and come the most close to something 'earthy' without being tan (I don't like tan). The bluish gray seats are also a nice reference to Nathanael Kuipers concept car, a car that serves a s a great source of inspiration to me. Blue seats would also have been 'historically right' (e.g. 8865 and many other models), but appear slightly to toyish to me (I like to think this build is not a toy ). With the presence of DBG/LBG in the seats I also decided to revert to the DBG H-logos in the grill and the trunk door. Another thing I've been working on: the spoiler (or rear wing if you wish). It was said - by @Lipko and others - it would nice if the spoiler would curve around the body more. This time I took a good look at 8880 - consciously - and this is what I intend to do. I deliberately avoided the use of the expensive red #3 connector. Please let me know what you think. This is how it was: And this is what I intend to do:
  2. Didumos69
    Don't worry @brickhank, I know the main structure of the Porsche is a flaw. I'm happy you know the difference now. @Paul Boratko is a great chassis-builder (also a great bodywork builder even though I'm not very keen on the looks of this particular model). In the end my mods only treated symptoms and not the actual cause. Also for me it was a good choice to move one to my next build. This brings me to another subject. If I'm correct the gearbox of the Scorpion uses red clutch gears also for trasferring drive on axles rotating at different speed. It also uses quite some gears spread throughout the rear half oft the chassis. So my question to the ones that have build this model is: How does the gearbox perform when it comes to friction? Is it easy to get everything to run smoothly?
  3. Didumos69
    Wow, thank you all for thinking with me! You have convinced me that I should go with a color that doesn't stand out too much, so white and yellow are no go's. I'm still thinking of building a second 8880-colored version later and will leave the white seats for that one. I''m also sensitive to the 'earthy'-argument, but somehow tan colors are not my favorite. Although I agree that tan matches a leather-look, it feels like aged and worn out or rusty plastic to me. So that's no option either. I like the suggestion of combining blue with white, but in the bottom half of the seat there are bushes, gears and special parts (for the adjustment mechanism) that are only available in bluisch gray. Final argument that I'm sensitive to is that I should use a color that's already present. So altogther that leaves me with two options: DBG/LBG or blue/LBG (blue is indeed already present by means of blue pins). I have a slight preference for DBG/LBG, but I don't want to uncheck the blue option completely. @BusterHaus, what a great initiative. I did update the chassis yesterday; I made the LXF reflect the changes I made to the suspension and a few other changes I made during building last week. Here is the latest LXF-file. It also includes some changes to the way the bottom of the rear window and spoiler are mounted. Last weekend we had friends over and when they grabbed the car by the spoiler, the entire spoiler and rear window came off. So now you can also "grab 'm by the spoiler" . If you are serious about putting effort into instructions I guess we are going to have to exchange some information. To build the entire chassis for instance, it is required to start with the mid-section - the shifter and the gearbox - and work your way to the front and rear modules. About the black 3L pins. In the chassis these can be replaced with blue ones, except for the ones in the dashboard and the seats. I also included these changes in the latest LXF. @Jeroen Ottens, here is a version with black doors (and fully LBG seats). I'm afraid I like the red doors with a black top line more. Now that I look again I don't know; the black doors seem to melt together with the rest of the black top. I need some time to decide on this. So, to be clear, these are the two options I will eventually choose from:
  4. Didumos69
    Quite some people - @Jeroen Ottens, @drakmin, @brunojj1, @Appie - have suggested to change the colors of the seats to make the interior pop-out a little more. So I made some renders with blue, dbg, white and yellow seats. I think the blue one pops out quite nicely. But then again, the DBG one would be a nice reference to Nathanael Kuipers Concept Car - imo the most inspiring Technic car ever. I didn't change the color of the dash because it disturbs the straight-cut black-red division of the body too much. What is your favorite?
  5. Didumos69
    Lovely little creature and excellent engineering! Simple yet powerful. I was already wondering what your new avatar was about. My son only needs one more pull-back engine to build it!
  6. Didumos69
    Sorry, don't have any spare Porsches laying around . I remembered you mentioning you don't have this center diff, on several occasions. Thanks! Thanks! Yeah, without torsion bars would have been nice. At least the hard springs now really add something so the torsion bars and the parts securing them are not stressed much just by the weight of the car. This was the case with the soft springs.
  7. Didumos69
    Very creative and orginal positioning of bent liftarms, I love it!
  8. Didumos69
    I regard that as a big complement! Thanks! I plan to offer instructions, but that will take a while. Thanks @Victor Imaginator! If you need an old diff (24t/16t), send me a PM and I send you one . I have quite a few. Update: I reworked the hood to make enough space for the front wheels. I also tweaked the suspension. Turned out that pairing soft and hard spring for the front suspension is too weak. So I had to revert to double hard springs for the front suspension, just like for the rear suspension. All works fine without using the axles holding the upper wishbones as torsion bars. However, to get a subtle rake angle I did reintroduce the use of torsion bars for the rear suspension, but this can be skipped when people are a afraid of damaging the axles. Todo: Improve the way the doors are mounted, restyle the rear wing and recolor the seats. Here are a few images taken with daylight. I personally like the fact that all mechanisms can be observed through the gaps in the body. You can for instance see the front and rear diffs,
  9. Didumos69
    Thanks for thinking with me. The point is that the heart of this model lies in the sequential gearbox and in the suspension setups with 2 stud travel. I decided to not make any compromises with regard to those features. Fenders - especially in the front - would either limit the suspension travel or rise far above the hood. Bigger panels are 2 studs thick and would certainly cause problems. I even plan to move the small panels 1 stud inwards as they already collide with the wheels when compressing the suspension while steering. Thanks! I did not look at 8865, but I do see the resemblance. It's funny, because with a black-yellow color scheme there is as much resemblance with 8880, which was in the back of my head, albeit unconsciously. Like 8865 and 8880 I did try to make a body from mostly beams. So perhaps that's also why there is so much similarity. But in my case I could make use of bend liftarms (I like to see my build as an ode to the bend liftarm). I will make some renders with blue and white seats and see how that works out.
  10. Didumos69
    The wheels are indeed big, but when compared to this car - that served as a reference for the proportions - they are actually too small. Anyway, my suspension relies on the Porsche rims, so the 8070 wheels are not an option. This morning I also geared down the steering. It is now geared down by 12/20 twice, it was only geared down by 12/20 once. This was necessary because of the extra weight of the body. Here is the LXF-file (with placeholders) representing the current real-life build.
  11. Didumos69
    Thanks for the feedback guys! I will try with a different color for the seats. My fear is that it will disturb the whole appearance - I kind of like the two color scheme - but I will give it a try. I agree that the rear wing could be done better. I've already been thinking to make it more like 8880. I will give that a go too. @brunojj1, yeah, the pictures are not good. I couldn't wait with posting some pictures, so I made them without daylight. When all is finished I will make some good pictures.
  12. Didumos69
    You're welcome @agrof. I'm happy you understand my line of thinking for this build. Concept car is indeed the right term. The 5.5 axles along the sides of the wind screen are an exact fit, 6l axles don't fit. The roof is quite inflexible .
  13. Didumos69
    I know this is a bit of an offbeat bread. I wanted to catch the essential lines only and have deliberately left in big gaps. I'm not going to add flex axles, for they are far to flexy and loose for this model. This build can actually roll over without anything getting displaced. Different color seats is worth trying. I don't know about the doors. This way the black cabin makes an inclined plane all the way from the bottom of the front wind screen along the black top line of the doors to the rear window. @JJ2, I can change the title when I edit the OP.
  14. Didumos69
    Thanks! The real model sits slightly lower because the suspension is compressed a little due to the vehicles own weight. But the clearance is still about 2 studs and the travel about the same. Here's a short preview video (I just noticed I still have one panel missing in the right door ).
  15. Didumos69
    Yep! That was my objective and it worked out quite well . Thanks! Two things I need to fix: The doors are not mounted firm enough and the hood touches the wheels in turns when the suspension is compressed . But I'm completely happy with the looks .
  16. Didumos69
    Yes I'm very pleased with the result. It looks better than I expected. And it's an absolute thrill to put together! One thing I need to improve: the doors. Trunk door is working fine, but side doors are not mounted firm enough.
  17. Didumos69
    Thanks! Yes, I will stick to the Porsche tires. I'm not very keen on going third party. The motorcycle tires are not an option, see this post from @schraubedrin. The roll cage behaves as expected . I had to make a few changes to make it buildable, but without affecting its sturdiness. Btw, I could replace the 15L liftarms underneath the side/rear windows with axle connectors as was suggested by @Lipko a few weeks back. The spoiler no longer depends on the angle made by these beams, so it only serves as decoration now. I made this change a long time ago, but decided to wait until I could build it for real. (A few parts still didn't arrive, so I used a few parts with different colors, but I will fix that later.)
  18. Didumos69
    Finally I received most of the parts to build the real life body! And of course I started building right away! So far no big changes to the design. I improved some connections and I had to lift the HoG by half a stud, it is now attached to a 5.5L axle with stop. I also reverted to hard springs for the rear axles and dropped the use of the axles holding the upper wishbones as torsion bars. I placed yellow bushes at the ends of these axles as a silent witness . I plan to do the same for the front axles, but in that case with pairs of soft and hard springs. These images show how some of the slanted liftarms are secured. Everything 'in system' .
  19. Didumos69
    Very promising suspension setups! I suppose the black axles inserted into the CV-joints for the front axles slide in and out the CV-joint while compressing and expanding the suspension. Maybe also while steering. If this is the case, then the black axles are likely to pull the CV-joint out of the diff over time. When transferring drive, the axles don't slide in and out of the CV-joint very easy. @PorkyMonster posted a nice way to secure the CV-joints recently.
  20. Didumos69
    Yes, I do. Either a photo sequence, or - if I find someone willing to make them (any volunteers?) - full-blown instructions. This project has generated more attention than I expected. To make it accessible to a wider audience I'm also thinking of dropping the torsion bars. They may cause damage to the axles involved, as has been reported by @zux. This was also a concern of @Meatman. Instead I hope to be able to tweak the suspension - and obtain a subtle rake angle - by using double hard springs for the rear axles and pairs of soft and hard springs for the front axles. But I can only test this when I know the weight of the body and I'm still waiting for parts. I wil hold on to the anti-roll bars though, as they are far less likely to cause damage. They are not stressed under the vehicles weight.
  21. Didumos69
    Very nice to read this background story and a great end result. One of the details I like: the way the flex axles underneath the headlights flow into the wheel archs. You've achieved something to be proud of!
  22. Didumos69
    ! This is very recognizable, every time I took it apart it was always a surprise how it would behave. But after many refactorings I got quite confident in getting everything to run smooth again. I have to say I really appreciate how you and some others have taken the challenge to put this together from the LXF-file only. I hope it feels good to get to know how to take off the engine and the rear axle and such things. Such excersises give a better understanding of this model alltogether. In my opinion that's more fun than building by the book.
  23. Didumos69
    Excellent! I especially like the fact that you have taken a fantasy vehicle. Funny note, as far as I know the designer behind the Zootopia vehicles is J Mays, known from the 1997 New Beetle, the Audi TT, the 2015 Ford Mustang, and the Aston Martin DB9. https://www.google.nl/amp/jalopnik.com/how-disney-s-zootopia-got-its-cars-from-legendary-car-d-1762567392/amp
  24. Didumos69
    I designed it to match the other mods in the ultiametly playable version. But if you want to use this in the stock build or in the errata-version then you're right.
  25. Didumos69
    Locking up the axle won't do any harm I think. The linear clutch is there to protect your gears when the gearbox halts while you push your model along. But the chance of a halting gearbox is reduced to almost zero by the 90 degree limiter and the extended change-over catches. However, you should get it working with the linear clutch. The drive train is somewhat complex and makes getting all gears to rotate freely quite a hassle. This is why I have chosen for a far more simple drive train in the Rugged Supercar I'm working on. To locate friction I always start with removing the wheels. Then I rotate the drivetrain by hand. To feel what's going on in the gearbox I usually set the DNR-gearbox in neutral and push the 20t thin gears in the H-frame by hand. I push those gears until I feel the friction. Then I keep on pushing, but just not enough to set the gears in motion. At this point I check all gears with my other hand. You can feel it when one is troubled by friction. Hope this helps. To avoid the shifting HoG from slipping you really need to make those changes to the vertical panel.
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