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Didumos69
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Everything posted by Didumos69
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Thank you for your kind words @Kumbbl! To me this build need not be something LEGO would offer as a set, but I'm very happy you recognize this as something quite original. Let me clarify about the use of torsion bars; the anti-roll bars use axles as torsion bars, but these are not stressed when the model sits on the shelf, just like @Victor Imaginator said. But even when the anti-roll bars are active, the stress on parts will be very little because of the immense length of the bars (15L). Using the wishbone axles as torsion bars is a different story. Initially I used the axles holding the upper wishbones as torsion bars for all 4 wheels. I'm used to using axles as torsion bars as I like the non-linear resistance they give. I combined them with soft springs and at that point it was correctly noted by @Meatman that the springs hardly did anything. But it was only after reading @zux remarks on deformed axles caused by using them as torsion bars - together with an increasing interest for this WIP topic - that I reconsidered using torsion bars this way. I reverted to the hard springs and tried to skip using wishbone axles as torsion bars entirely. My final conclusion was the following: The model can do without these torsion bars, but then the rear of the car sits a little deeper in its suspension than the front of the car. If you like a more realistic rake angle, and if you like the rear suspension to be slightly more rigid than the front suspension, then the rear suspension can be advanced by using the upper wishbone axles as torsion bars. I opted for the latter, but this time I only added the least of stress to that axle and retained the hard springs. So this time the torsion bars only carry a small part of the entire weight when the model is sitting on a shelf. This is different of course when you compress the suspension, but so far I have not seen any signs of deforming axles or damaged parts securing the axles. And trust me, I have tested the suspension hundreds, if not thousands, of times. To conclude: You can skip using the wishbone axles as torsion bars for the rear suspension and still enjoy this build. You can advance the rear suspension with torsion bars, but with minimal stress and contained chances of deformation. Btw, maybe this is not the most cheerful occasion to share this, but I am very happy with the fact that @BusterHaus has offered to work on building instructions for this model. This will be quite an effort and will take at least several months. Thanks for starting this @BusterHaus! To conclude, @BusterHaus has provided me with the following nuance in the torsion subject: But in the end everybody has to decide for himself, whether to use axles as torsion bars or not. -
You have a point, but I used some yellow parts to emphasize some special functions. Although I did my best to give this car an appealing appearance and I have been sensitive to what others think of it, it remains to be a 'cut the crap', 'no-nonsense', 'old-school' build in the first place. With big holes and some color-discontinuities. So I will stick to the yellow accents and the small panels in the doors. Thanks!
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While waiting for some parts in the right color I shot a preliminary video showing the end-result. It's a bit shaky and doesn't show all features, but it does show its overall ruggedness.
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Well, you did bring me back to the tooth, which feels and looks good. With a 2L lever next to it the risk of getting stuck when moving the handle down is also eliminated. This is what it will be:
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The axle has to span 2L between the thin 3x3 lever on the inside of the door and the handle, otherwise the handle can't move down, so the tooth part would sit on less than 0.5L of the 3L axle. But I could combine a thin 3L lever with a tooth using the 4L axle with end-stop:
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I'm affraid not. In the space right underneath the space behind the half bush (!!) sits a red 7L liftarm. Btw, when you grab the car by the side, with your thumb on top of the door, the black 15L beam spanning the door settles itself behind this red 7L beam. That way you can still hold thecarth is way. I changed the colors of the door handles and the side mirrors so they match the H-logos. I think that gives some balance.
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Funny, I was thinking of using the same part. The entire lever needs to fall outside the body, otherwise it can't move down. So with this part I would indeed have to use a half bush, but also means I can't put anything in the center axle hole of this part. And with only a 1l beam attached to the pin it feels too much like a lever you see on mixers etc. But with a 3L beam and the 4L axle with end stop it looks OK, imo.
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I think a bionicle tooth will do. I will check. If it works I will have to order a few black ones. A fully inserted black axle would sit against the adjustable seats, tthat's why I used an axle with end stop. Thanks!
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@Victor Imaginator, @Meatman, couldn't get it to wotk with rubber connectors, but there was space for a soft shock inside the door. Managed to do it in a way that I can still grab the car by the side. Think this will do.
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Okay then. I guess I needed someone to tell me. Using rubber sounds like a great idea. Will be hard to do the same as 41999, because the doors are slanted (not laido ut on a perfect 1 stud grid), but I could maybe also use rubber in the door hinges. Thanks for the inspiration! (It's a good thing this build is close to being finished, I'm running out of inspiration)
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This is what I meant to ask feedback on: Opening and closing the doors requires the outer end of the door to be lifted a little, which puts a little stress on the parts that hold the door. When the door is closed it is locked by the #1 connector directly adjacent to the door. I personally like this, because when the doors are closed, they sit very secure. You can grab the car with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb on the top side of the door, which is a very natural thing to do and not possible with many other LEGO super cars. But the opening / closing mechanism does rely on the flexibility of parts, which is usually not my style.
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It's the same old video. I will make a new video when all is finished.
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I'm about to label this build as finished. The doors feel very solid now and I've set myself the goal to finish this before a short winter holiday next week. So I'll leave butterfly doors to anyone willing to mod this build as soon as instructions are available. The only small concern I have is the fact that opening and closing the doors requires the outer end of the door to be lifted a little, which puts a little stress on the parts that hold the door. When the door is closed it is locked by the #1 connector directly adjacent to the door. I personally like this, because when the doors are closed, they sit very secure. You can grab the car with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb on the top side of the door, which is a very natural thing to do and not possible with many other LEGO super cars. But the opening / closing mechanism does rely on the flexibility of parts, which is usually not my style. See timestamp 1:10 of the video below. Any objections?
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I can confirm this. I looked into the LXF and it appears to me that the vertical connectivity is quite far from the vertical gear meshes. This could cause the issue, but doesn't really explain the difference between forward and backward. What you could do, is try to sandwich the diff. See my modified LXF (you have to get the bracing right yourself ). EDIT: This way you can actually do without the axle right underneath the diff, I updated the image and lxf-file..
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Wow, that's a ridiculously cool looking bad guy! I like the suspension and how its partly compressed under the vehicles own weight. Indeed very realistic. I also like the bigger tires in the back. Absolutely stunning that you can build such a vehicle in just one day . Well done! Looking forward to seeing the video.
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I guess it could, and it still might. We'll see. All feels very solid right now, even the doors. If I were to implement gullwing or butterfly doors, it would have to be equally solid. Thanks! I'm curious what you'll come up with. This WIP topic turned out very helpful. I don't think I would have had the same result without all the feedback and support from the ones following this topic. I'm pretty sure actually.
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I don't know, I always host images elsewhere (bricksafe.com) and paste the links into the post. The image then gets automatically embedded.
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Aha, sure. Btw, moderators don't like images in quotes. You can still remove them.
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I'm still waiting fot 4 red bionicle teeth, but apart from that I think I'm closing in on the finish line. I managed to improve the way the doors are mounted, the last improvement on my issues list. In that process I also made the side mirrors fully movable, I also replaced two black 5.5L axles and a #2 connector in the top of the front wind screen with a 12L axle. That created the opportunity to add a fully adjustable rearviewmirror. From now on I only expect changes to improve the building process. Btw, here are also two renders showing a black / orange color scheme. Please note that I will stick with my red / black color scheme, this is only for those (@brickhank) interested in building this model with mostly.Porsche parts. Perhaps this is also a color layout that @Jeroen Ottens wanted to see.
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Amen. Excellent work! So this was what you were working on. Nice to see the shift levers in operation. I also very much like how you can grab the car by the bottom and shake the car without anything falling off. I'd say "grab 'm by the bottom and shake'm! "
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I hope I'm not intruding, but I'm pretty sure that it is to protect the CV-joints closest to the front wheels. The max angle of the CV-joints is quite limited. See this post from Paul and the ones before and after.
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Exactly. Thanks!
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Great! I hope my rugged supercar will be received as something that can live up to the same level of rigidity and operational 'feel'.
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Great! Yes I tried with the small panel pointing forwards, but together with the rear light panel that gavee too much of a rocket-like feel. I wasn't very content myself. The wing was too wide in my opinion and I didn't like the black #3 connectors (and red ones still cost about 2,50 euro a piece). So I thought, why not make use of one of the kite-shapes from the (3, 4, 5)- triangle - nicely displayed by @Erik Leppen in this post - once again. After all, this model is a tribute to the bent liftarm and Pythagoras . If you take a good look you see the longer kite-shape in the way the bent liftarms - that make the angled tips of the wing - are secured underneath the wing. Write down: 44 bent liftarms in this model . You're right. However for some colors I could have replaced that part with a colored bush (and the axle-pin-connector with a 2L axle).
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I think you're right. How about this: Okay, didn't know they were rereleased. I think I'll make them red.