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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Thank you guys! Good to know there are some folks within the community that are able and willing to do this . I'm quite impressed by some of the designs from @HorcikDesigns, especially the Concept I, so I would be very happy to collaborate with him. Thanks to all the others! @Offroadcreat1ons, I actually like the your line drawing. It does breath the simplicity that I'm looking for. @Saberwing40k, thanks for your offer. I didn't know Paul made such a drawing of the Vampire GT, looks great. @Blakbird, are you telling me you didn't draw all those beautiful renders by hand? @HorcikDesigns, thanks again, I'll send you a PM soon.
  2. Didumos69
    Great idea, I will give it a try. Thanks!
  3. Didumos69
    I'm currently working out some ideas for a final presentation video. One of the things I would like to include, are some sketchy impressions that catch the essential lines of the car. Something like this, but it could also be a more simple pen drawing. It would be awesome if there is anyone out here who is able to make such a thing and would be willing to make them for this project. Of course I would credit the designer in every publication where I use the designs. Source: http://www.scottdesi...-im-working-on/ These are the angles I'm thinking of, but I could provide you with different angles of course.
  4. Didumos69
    Wow, this is tremendous, in size, looks and in functions! I'm also impressed by the fact that you built this all by yourself without gathering feedback - at least not from the community - along the way. I would not be able to that. Hats off!
  5. Didumos69
    This is pretty recognizable. My wife always explains about Eurobricks with: "they even share pictures of their desks and storage boxes" , but when I tell her my latest WIP topic has 37k views in 3 months (of which I claim about 10K ) she falls off her chair .
  6. Didumos69
    That's indeed how it can be done. @Epic Technic made instructions for both cubes in the original topic, but the link to the instructions for the bigger brother appears to point to the instructions for the small one...
  7. Didumos69
    Btw, I think these belong here too (see original topic):
  8. Didumos69
    D.mn it, you're right! I got them apart. I never looked at it that way. I was convinced I had to pull all four simultaneously. Stupid me .
  9. Didumos69
    I put this together without stressing parts. But how do I take it apart?
  10. Didumos69
    I do not really like looking at so many pinholes, but I like it nevertheless. To me - but that's personal - it looks more clean than the stock build. Maybe you could replace the orange liftarm in front of the front window with a black one to get a little more the illusion of a curved window. Wel done!
  11. Didumos69
    Personally, I would never build a car without suspension, because suspension setups are my main interest. But. Lego is all about making 'models'. And to me (sorry, I have an engineering background) 'model' means: Simplification of a system (or thing) that brings about one or more aspects of that system's (or thing's) nature. Models allow us to zoom in on certain aspects while leaving other aspects out. So it's all about what exactly do you want to tell with your model. So from that perspective I think it's perfectly valid to leave out suspension and focus on the things that matter to you. One way to reduce flex / play in suspension setups is to brace suspension arms properly. For example by extending their width to at least three studs. Or by making sure the suspension arm is secured at both sides and not with a single liftarm inside the (6L) suspension arm as is the case in the 42056 set. In stock LEGO sets suspension setups are rarely braced well. EDIT: It is often said that it does not make sense to secure suspension arms well, because you will never be able to compensate for the slack in standard LEGO wheel hubs. However slack in wheel hubs and slack in suspension arms add up, so securing the suspension arms properly will always make a difference.
  12. Didumos69
    I'm affraid the 42000 wheels are too small. The links for the anti-roll bars and the calipers rely on the big inner diameter of the Porsche rims. The wheels of the 8448 street sensation might work though, but I did not test it. if your budget allows, I would look out for a cheap 42056 set rather than picking up individual parts. Not just to build this model of course.
  13. Didumos69
    Make that two: @Paul Boratko's Scorpion and @Jeroen Ottens DB11.
  14. Didumos69
    Blue: Put the axle into place first, attach the links to the bottom ball joints and then gradually bring the upper ball joints and the upper ends of the links closer to each other by rotating the axle and the link. If LDD crashes while rotating the axle, make sure the axle is only connected to one rotation point (so remove one of the L-shaped liftarms temporarily). Pink: Rotate the axle with the 20t gear by 30 degrees. It has been reported by @Paul Boratko that these two don't fit. They really don't fit. The old DBG gears with clutch should fit. EDIT: see this post.
  15. Didumos69
    I overlooked your post yesterday. Thanks! Thank you @Jeroen Ottens! Also thanks for your comments upstream. Your remarks have made me reconsider things on several occassions. For instance your hint to use small panels to get the eye-brow look. I agree the LBG axle distracts from the H-logo. I do want the holes besides the H to be covered though. Behind those holes sit two half pins - blue or LBG - that would disturb even more, Maybe a black 3L pin and a 2L pin with pins covering the holes, but I'm not a big fan of seeing naked pins. With a monotone background, yes. I plan to do that when the instructions are finished; there might still be small changes to the body. I don't know if the background will be white though, I was thinking of grey. Any particular reason why I should use white? Thanks! Thank you for your comment. I don't perceive it as offensive at all. The most special part - to me - of this build is the chassis. It combines the simplest 4-speed AWD sequential drive-train that I have seen, a flawless shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. Btw, there will be separate instructions available for the chassis only. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features, on the contrary, I wanted the body to continue the line of fool-proofness set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs, they would also sit 2 studs above the hood. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. You can carry it by the roof, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the sides and by the bumpers without dearranging any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders such as @Paul Boratko, @Madoca 1977 or @Jeroen Ottens. To me the biggest compliment is that some refer to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880 (see renders below ). Nevertheless your critiques make sense. The hood and the nose were the first elements of the body I worked on. I wanted to have a slightly curved hood, but I also wanted the front to be as low as possible. I left it flat and decided to work on the rest of the body first. And after establishing the doors and rear/side windows I found the flat yet inclined hood to align perfectly with the inclined plane drawn by the doors and rear/side windows, see render below. So I left the hood low and flat.
  16. Didumos69
    Thank you @Blakbird, it would be an honor . Btw, instructions are being worked on by @BusterHaus. Here are some more suspension close-ups:
  17. Didumos69
    I like the rear anti-roll bar . It seems like the rear end of the chassis bends a little under the pressure of the shocks. Can't you add anything to stiffen this thin section of the chassis?
  18. Didumos69
    Thanks! I'm quite content with the suspension. The model has a ground clearance of 2.25 studs. The front can be compressed all the way down to the ground and the back to about .25 studs above the ground. Thanks! Yeah, I think this is where it should end. Thank you @Madoca 1977 for this great compliment! This was not something I started very consciously. Also for me this topic evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference of other builders. Thanks! I'm affraid I have a slight preference for 'in your face' cars over wind-tunnel-shaped cars. Thank you @proran! I think the area you are referring to is typical for the entire body: build a fool-proof construction and capture the essential lines. This also has a cost; the body has quite some clutter, but I hope the lines draw the most attention. Btw, it was only after establishing the lines of the cabin - the top-line of the doors and the bottom lines of the rear/side windows that I got confident in bringing this to a good end. Thanks to everyone who has contributed!
  19. Didumos69
    After some playing around in LDD I managed to construct a 3 strand braid . This will be quite sloppy when you would build it in real life, but the excercise was fun. Anyone else having some LEGO braid ideas? Click the image to download the LXF-file. You can copy-paste the structure and connect it to the already present one.
  20. Didumos69
    Thank you @DugaldIC! I know you know what I'm talking about . Here are some photos of the (probably) final version:
  21. Didumos69
    The 6L side exactly spans the hypotenuse of the (3, 4, 5)-triangle (based on the Pythagorean triple (3-4-5)). So it spans 3L horizontally and 4L vertically, which puts both ends of the slanted section on a perfect 1-stud grid. See also this topic for more of these prefectly gridded angles.
  22. Didumos69
    I finally had the time to scan through this interesting WIP topic. Nice to see the progress and the suspension looks impeccable . One note on the current state of the chassis: If you would use the 6L side of the bent liftarms to lower the mid-section of the chassis, the rear section would be 'in-grid' with the rest of the chassis. EDIT: That would make it more easy to connect the mid to the rear with future additions. The mid-section would also be more horizontal as it is now. I will be following this WIP with great interest!
  23. Didumos69
    Thanks! I'm using the same mechanism in my Hammerhead albeit with the shift lever separated from the stepper.
  24. Didumos69
    Thank you @Attika.
  25. Didumos69
    Wow, yet another amazing car from your hands! I also see the line of improvement, but I do think there is a lot more to gain. I agree with Paul that the floating u-joint is not very elegant. Also the 9 stud width between the seats is not very realistic. I do like the motors position though.
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