ecmo47

2014 train in tree. by Scott Roys, on Flickr Here is what I did last year. Just got the tree up for this year but do not have the train in yet.

Very, Very nice! I'd be very interested to know you solved some of the stability issues. I have built Cavegods AT-AT and I do not think that it would stay up with a motorized neck. How did you build the legs? How do the ankles attach? Interior shots of the head to see the movement mechanisms? Again, GREAT job and thanks for sharing!

You should try an S-brick to control both motors. Should save you a little space. Also since your planning on using it to run long trains, why dont you put one set of motors/controls in a second engine so you have a pusher?

I have just completed Wall-e. I've done Chris McVeigh's neck mod. It does a pretty good job of correcting the floppy head problem. Here's the link to his website: http://chrismcveigh.com/lego_mod_guides_2015/wall-e_head_mount.pdf I've also powered it up per the PPung video...sort of....I used a lot of different pieces than he did. Here's some tips/difficulties that I ran into: 1. The motor mounting is tricky at best. The motors have to mounted upside down so that the track moves smoothly around the round shape of the top of the motor. If you mount it right side up, the sharp corners of the stud holders (what do you call the bottom of a brick?) will catch on the track. This leads to a weakness that I fixed as best I could since you can only use one Technics pin to hold it to the 9L LBG Lift arm that holds the gears. This is the ONLY mounting point since there are no studs on the motors and they are upside down. If you look stop the video at 00:13 you will see the right motor already starting to drop from a lack of clutch power. The best fix that I have currently have is to use a 2x12 plate across both motors for the most clutching power. 2. Yes the treads slip pretty easy. I increased the tread by sticking a bunch of 1x1 round plates to the treads. Think studded snow tires. 3. I don't know how PPung did his neck connection but I had to move that joint up one entire brick so that the battery box could fit inside. It will not fit otherwise. Cant tell the difference with the head/neck positioning. 4. Working on a Lego built boot to pot the plant. It's a little big but looks pretty good. At least it does on LDD! 5. For me, the lowest hinge joint is still too loose. No fix for that yet. 6. I called Lego CS and they are sending me the "kit" to fix the neck. Will report if that does anything that I haven't already done. 7. Going to try to get an S-brick in it before the weekend of 14-15 Nov when I'll take it to a small show. Not going to promise any pictures as my digital camera just died. Might have to resort to some iphone snaps.

Good looking locomotives! Keep up the good work! One thing I noticed is that none of your pictures show brick outlines. Are you aware of this function? Makes building MUCH easier! Activate it by the following steps: - Click the "edit" tab in the top left corner of the screen. - Click on "Preferences" at the bottom of the drop down menu. - Select "Outlines on Bricks" at the bottom of the next menu. - Click "OK" - Restart LDD to activate new preference. Brick outlines really helps me with my model building. Much easier to see where structure problems may exist.

I think you mean a benevolent MOMarchy!

Great layout! Very impressive in that everything is scratch built. Love the transfer table. Is it powered in anyway? I see that everything is 9v so that would be pretty difficult to accomplish. What are the dimensions of the whole set-up? How many people contributed to it? What kind of sting did you use for the powerline? I need some of those to gussy up my layout. Are all your trains 8 wide? Enough questions! Thanks for posting.

Fantastic! That model went from "that's nice" to "Wow!" The double motors on the tender look pretty natural unlike the first version.

I wasn't expecting much when I clicked on a link for a 0-6-0T. After the initial speechlessness, now I cannot find enough superlatives to describe my amazement. Wow! Awesome! Spectacular! This creation really shows that there are few limits to the possibilities of Lego. Great job! Looking forward to more of your creative works.

Looking good even with using the light grey dishes! If I didn't already have them, I would not bother with changing them. Adds to the "weathered war machine" look. Is the neck next? (Say that three times fast!) I did some mods that are detailed in this thread: http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/11365/ucs-at-at-ready-for-duty#latest One note of caution is that attaching the neck to the head is tricky and delicate. Refer the above thread for some advise on that. Others have made AT-AT models that have interiors but this one is too darn fragile (and heavy) to waste time on that. You would have extreme difficultly opening any door or hatch to show it off what's inside. Too much man-handling will turn your pride of the Imperial fleet into Rebel victory very quickly! Untitled by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Very nice! I'm sure that students would not be amused by the handcuff motif! I think that this building would look fantastic if you repeated the second level and made it 4 stores tall. Love the little shop. I'm sure they do a brisk after school business in ice cream and candy.

If you ever had to climb the water tower to defend your sisters honor.......... Great build! Looks just like many midwestern small town water towers. I'd like to see a close up of the roof and how you did the splayed legs.

One note on the expensive and rare 8x8 LBG radar dishes. Just buy 2 for the head as the "bulge" is important for the style of the head. The four needed for the feet are not necessary. Substitute part #6177 (8x8 LBG round tile) as it is more accurate to the design of the foot. Best of all, they are plentiful and cheap!

Oddly enough, that has not been a major problem for me so I have not bothered to make changes. I have never had the model up more than 24 hours so dont know if they separate over time. The thing I did beef up was the technic frame so that the top beam was study enough to be a handle that would hold the weight of most of the model. The part that helped the most was 32555 (Technic, Brick 5 x 5 Right Angle (1 x 4 - 1 x 4) which you can just barley see behind the red 3x5 Technic "L". DSC01169 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

I have built (and re-built) this model many times. Can you be a little more clear on your question? DSC01211 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Museum3b by Karen Metz, on Flickr Here's is your Museum!

Not sure you should park it on the stove!

It is an all or nothing deal. Once you start, you cant really quit due to uneven road bed height.

I love it! The alley way makes a nice brake from side-by-side and looks completely natural. Nice place for a clandestine meeting! I also like buildings that get away from the 16/32/64 wide pattern. While may layout is dominated by official Lego Modulars, I have built my own bases for them so any future buildings do not need to be stuck to a standard 32x32 plate. Can we see a shot of the back? The spiral staircase fits right in for your design! Gives an older feel. Al lastly, I hope nobody was injured in that accident in front of the barber shop!

Alright! More resources! I did not know about the Brickish organization but maybe that's because I'm on the wrong side of the pond. My curve design is fairly study, especially if you add the 1x3's on the inside of the curve which ties the 2x4 wedge to the end of the 1x10. One thing is that my design is just the track bed and ties. Adding the ballast will up the part count dramatically! The Birckish design is probably a lot less pieces but looks like it may sacrificing durability and doesn't account for the ties.

Thanks for the links! That Micheal Gale link is exactly what I was looking for. One a side note, I just noticed that my parts list didn't included one very important part - the track!

It was in the Allen Smith Flickr album of the NMRA 2015 show. Lots of really great trains featured there!

DSC01330 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01328 by Scott Roys, on Flickr As stated, straight track isn't hard to figure out. Here are the parts needed for ONE 16 stud length: 4x#3020: 2x4 DBG plate 8x#3023: 1x2 DBG plate 4x#3030: 4x10 DBG plate 3x#4282: 2x16 DBG plate (These are expensive! Any 2xXX plate will work but I found the 2x12's to be most economical) 8x#3070b: 1x1 Reddish Brown (or Black) tile 8x#2431: 1x4 Reddish Brown (or Black) tile I build in 4 track sections. I stagger the 4x10's so that they overlap the track joints. The biggest plate available is 6x10 but they are, by stud, more expensive than 4x10's. As stated the 2x16's are expensive so, to do a 4 track length section, use twelve 2x12's and three 2x16's to cover the 64 stud length. Next up, the switches and some ME track curves. If anybody has a better (cheaper/less parts) option please post! Thanks. Also a quick plug for Railbricks e-zine. Issue #1 had an article on ballasting options. Check it out!

Here is the parts list for ONE section of curve track: 4x#4477: 1x10 DBG plate 4x#50304: 8x3 DBG Right Wedge plate 4x#41769: 4x2 DBG Right wedge plate 4x#41770: 4x2 DBG Left wedge plate 4x#3023: 1x2 DBG plate 4x#3024: 1x1 DBG plate 4x#3623: 1x3 DBG plate (these are optional but do add stability when attached to the inside curve) 8x#3070b: 1x1 Reddish Brown (or Black) tile 8x#2431: 1x4 Reddish Brown (or Black) tile 22x#3068: DBG 2x2 tile (this is approximate and you can use any color for 1/3 of the them) Most of these parts a pretty cheap but the numbers add up quick. One section has about 62 pieces. A full 360 degree circle will have 992 parts! I would like to use Dark Brown but Lego does not produce the 1x1 tile in that color yet. I might have to take the reddish brown pieces off for a better shot of construction from above.

Hi! I'm in the process of revamping my layout. One thing I wanted to change was to make the track bed look as realistic as possible. Namely, I wanted single spaced railroad ties instead of the Lego double spaced tie. Single spaced ties are easy to do on the straight sections but the curves present more of a challenge. I looked around the forum for design ideas and didn't see anything specific so set about to figure out the problem myself. Seeing some of the great layouts on here (Texas LUG, PennLUG) I knew it could be done which makes the battle a little easier. Here is what I came up with. DSC01329 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01331 by Scott Roys, on Flickr