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nerdsforprez

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by nerdsforprez

  1. nerdsforprez
    Agreed. If you are serious about building a very very large crane, I would definitely NOT buy tons of sets. You will waste a lot of money. Having built recently a very large crane: I can tell you BL is the way to go. A couple of other pointers..... you will needs TONS of pins. Try to use the blue 3l pins as much as possible, they are not much more money but much stronger. Not just longer but thicker as well. ALso, look at the pricing and availability of 13L and 11L liftarms compared to 15L liftarms. Obsviously you will needs tons of them..... but the cost effectiveness of using 11 or 13 over 15 is sometimes many fold. For example, 11L in white are about a third of the cost of 15L on BL (average) --- and the difference that you get out of all that is only a few studs. I don't think you get much if any more strength, so 11L, for the white masts above were used instead of 15L. For main booms and luffing fly jibs..... 15 L are not much more expensive than 11 or 13L, is I used 15L. If you truly decide to build the large crane, do a little homework, think of an acceptable counterweight, etc.... because these are all things that will come into play building a large crawler crane.....
  2. nerdsforprez
    So..... I had some time this morning to test out my hypothesis. I was right. The mechanical advantage offered by the pulleys is enough to lift heavy things...... IF the clutch gears are removed. Again.... the lifting power of the model is restricted by the clutch gears, not by the lack of mechanical advantage from the pulleys or lack of power from the L motor. Here is a video both of it lifting over 800 grams and also a little tutorial how it is done. It is a really easy fix, took my ten minutes. Also, no damage to the motor whatsoever. And.... just to add....there was no slipping of gears. None at all. Motor was fine. I do quite a bit with Lego in terms of pushing the limits, and IMO this little lift in no way pushed the limit to make the gears slip, closer to stalling the motor but still quite a bit away from even that happening......
  3. nerdsforprez
    Done and done. Answering @Erelender's original question, it would be fun to have a little competition and guess how many 15L black liftarms were used in this project. Any guesses?
  4. nerdsforprez
    I believe I have seen these exact containers on brinklink under the new shop.
  5. nerdsforprez
    A joy to look at, learn about, and, I am sure, to play with. It really is quite a feat when your fans can sit and enjoy your models, coffee in hand, like we are reading s good novel or something. Let the stories continue, great job.
  6. nerdsforprez
    What would you search by? One can post it under a number of different titles. I am the one who mistakingly also double-posted (I guess triple-post) this. My bad I should have looked and seen what was posted earlier in the day. But for @erelender I am not sure what he would have searched for. He posted it under "music machine" - I posted it under something completely different.....and completely independent of knowledge of his title and came up with something completely different. So even though our search function is great. Sometimes it doesn't "work" even though it "works"
  7. nerdsforprez
    Saw this video today.... Just had to post. Simply amazing. Honestly, I post as a potential GBC in Lego jocularly. Not sure all elements in Lego can behave in such a manner as to make this possible. But what fun if it could! Would be another great group project.
  8. nerdsforprez
    SHERP is nice and all..... and your version is lovely. Although I think the vehicle itself (not your version) is not much of a looker. Personally, I would like someone to make the Gheo-rescue vehicle. Like the SHERP, it can become amphibious with a little help.
  9. nerdsforprez
    When I saw brick "booty" I had to look. Have to be honest, little disappointed what I saw
  10. nerdsforprez
    Saw this on mocpages. Wonderful build. Love the chrome
  11. nerdsforprez
    I was looking at the wheels today as well and wondering exactly how big they would be. Well, not even close to as big as those that I used on my NYM's Unimog (pictured below in my signature block; they are about 137 mm); but, as has already been pointed out, certainly larger than the Unimog and PP tires. Well.... interesting piece of information.... the thread we have here about third party tires, started by efferman http://www.eurobrick...opic=70865&st=0 has a couple of pictures that give us an idea just how much bigger. Efferman, in the very beginning of the post uploads some pictures. These tires are about 108 mm in diameter, almost exactly the size of those on the new Xerion.
  12. nerdsforprez
    The mesh of the gears is pretty strong. I don't think that anything is going to get stripped. And yes, it increases the chance of burning out the motor but if one is careful I think they are fine. Perhaps I will try and open up my 42042, change the clutch gear out, and give it a try. All you have to do is be right there when trying to lift anything, if the L motor is stalling, help it with the lift or simply switch it off, change the gear, etc..... no motor is going to burn out with such little time being stalled. In preparing the video already posted, all together, I am sure I contributed to several seconds of stalling the motor.... no damage that I am aware of. This has me curious though. @philo would be a good resource for this.......how much stalling of a motor does it take to burn out a motor?
  13. nerdsforprez
    Oh my goodness..... such a welcomed change. Can anyone remember 42025 and when a stubborn beast it was to turn on and off! Just look at the instructions and you will know what I am talking about.
  14. nerdsforprez
    Agreed. And there are several who have adapted some RC components to Lego already. I fit in a small RC motor into sheepos mustang and it sped it up quite a bit. I know @boxerlego has done a lot of that stuff as well. I have posted before the minds-i system here....on this forum and I swear it would be relatively easy to replicate it somewhat. I have already done this with one of my crawlers. used screws to replicate the minds-i system and it works quite well. I didn't do anything special for motors..... just two XL motors.... but when I crashed the crawler it never broke apart. details: http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/422162
  15. nerdsforprez
    Yea! You are right! I mean.... I can be wrong... but I am almost sure that it is because of the clutch gear. The motor sounds robust and strong when I try and lift the 8288, not slowing in RPMs or anything, but it begins skipping because of the gear. Truth be told, I lifted an 8070 (video on my youtube channel) with the 42009 (my version) with nothing but a L PF motor. Yes, the mechanical lifting advantage was more because I had more pulleys. But about a year ago, when I tried to lift the 8070 with the 42009 stock it failed but only because of the clutch (and the gear ratio is pretty much the same as the 42042). I would be willing to bet if one took out the clutch gear it could lift the 8288.....in fact.... wondering if it has already been done. Going to youtube now.........
  16. nerdsforprez
    err.... apparently we are discussing the exact same thing "You have to look and see how much and how often it is ACTUALLY being sold. 8421 only sold 8 in the past 6 months. And not anywhere near their current average price. average price was around $330." --- @paul_delahaye - "This is the average price new in box sets have sold for in the past 6 months" Also.... I don't really think anyone out there is investing for like their retirement or anything. If you only liquidate like one large adult set for like twice what it is worth (ex: SW UCS set = 200$x2 = 400$ = 200 dollars profit, give or take after all fees) is enough to buy another adult set. Like the OP mentioned, he/she is only interested in getting money back from money invested in hobby, or at least just making a buck or two to supplement what is being spent on hobby. No need to go searching for gold or pontificate who will be the next Apple for that......
  17. nerdsforprez
    I have already posted this.... and I am not trying to be redundant..... but the following applies here, In order to make this video: it involved playing with 42042 a lot. As you can see, I build the main boom larger. Added two sections. Easy enough right? yea..... but what I discovered is that at 722 grams 42042 could not lift 8288. But it holds it just fine (and more) with the proper counter weight. And... the pulley set-up is strong enough.... as well as the motor. Then what is the real problem? any guesses? If lifting capacity is NOT restricted by the motor or the pulley system......then what is it?
  18. nerdsforprez
    I kinda disagree with the above. Being a Technic afectionado, I am not sure the Technic flagships do that well. We are seeing such great new flagships (check out the Technic forum) and more adult-themed, that even the 8110 (unimog) is not that special anymore. When it first came out, it was (i think) the first licensed Technic set and the first one over 2000 pieces. Now we have one coming out at nearly 4,000 pieces. Licensed sets all over the place as well. Adult builders of Technic found many many things wrong with the set. 8421 was replaced with 42009, but better. Just like your argument with SW sets, that they can be replaced, that is exactly what happened with 8421. Yes, BL average prices are X, but that is not the number to be looking at. People can set the prices at whatever they want. You have to look and see how much and how often it is ACTUALLY being sold. 8421 only sold 8 in the past 6 months. And not anywhere near their current average price. average price was around $330. Set originally sold for 150. So you are barely doubling your investment (and this is all NEW, not used) in over ten years. Not really a good investment. As someone with a brickpicker account and over 10,000$ in sets, Technic has the worst performance out of the genres of sets I own. SW, Large Creator sets are the best.
  19. nerdsforprez
    I personally think this is a great topic. Another reason why.....is we get alot of new members asking a similar question here on the forum. Always something along the lines of: I'm new and am trying to decide what Set to buy to learn or build up my collection or... (whatever). What set should I buy? Responses vary but generally state one of two things: (1) set x is good/bad because it is/is not a good build Or (2) set x is good/bad because it does/does not have a good part assortment. Rarely do we broach the topic of C models and IMO it needs to be in the discussion of sets we buy more often. I personally would have never bought 42038 had it not been for the b model and @buster haus's C model
  20. nerdsforprez
    @zblj - plus one for this comment and others that are similar. While constructive feedback is recommended, just plain criticism is not. If, as a forum we become too critical then beginners will not post. We can loose a lot of diversity and new talent that way. If that happens, the whole community suffers. But, agreed.... More than just a uRL is needed. Also, just for the OP's information, when posting a link to YouTube, just delete the "s" and the whole video will appear in the post, not just the URL
  21. nerdsforprez
    Yea... you got it. And I lifted ten pounds dead weight...... when I didn't have to worry about all the balancing required from the quad lift. Honestly, (and I think I wrote it somewhere) I may consider buying Efferman's turnable and install it. Although I built my own, it was the weak point when lifting any amount of weight. The booms handled things just fine.... but at ten pounds the turnable began to give way......
  22. nerdsforprez
    I have been back for only about three years now, and I agree with this post. I mean, I think that you need to start off with several sets... but it looks like you have already done that. After having several sets, and around 6-7,000 pieces (which it looks like you already have), I would focus on only buying the parts you need for your builds and buy only through bricklink. I used to go after tons and tons of sets and honestly, I have many parts that likely I will never use. I simply do not have the time. For some, who can build a ton, like put out a huge MOC every other month or so, buying tons of sets is worth it. But for most of us, just get a collection of 6-7,000 parts, and then bricklink what you need from there.
  23. nerdsforprez
    No title needed on this one. Instantly recognizable. Shaping, contouring is just about perfect. Great job on this build.
  24. nerdsforprez
    Agreed. I thought about buying tons of liftarms to widen the tracks, easy to do, many examples of others doing it. But costly. As with any real project, I had a budget in which I targeted to complete this baby. The rising prices of 15L liftarms didn't help any. In the end, I decided against it..... but good point to highlight.
  25. nerdsforprez
    Perhaps I should state this again. This pic was done for show. I literally turned the grinder on for two seconds for the pic and that was it. Real cutting was done completely safe.... during the day :wink: -- I have worked with metal for many years. But point well taken.... I hope no one views the pics and tries to mimic the for real not knowing that I did not do the real cuts under different conditions!
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