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Redimus

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Redimus

  1. Redimus
    Ahh! That's not a name plate (and it wasn't just the later years that those were used)! What you're referring to is the head board for the express the loco was hauling. Here's a few examples. I suspect the reason you thought it was a name board is that the Flying Scotsman was also the name of a none-stop express that ran between London and Edinburgh. Most A3s (originally designated A1 until they were *heavily* rebuilt after being embarrassed by the GWR's frontline express loco of the time) were named after race horses of the time, I'm not sure if Flying Scotsman was also named after a race horse or if they decided to ignore the naming convention for the class and named it after the express.
  2. Redimus
    I really like the A3, probably the best attempt I've seen that doesn't cheat. Can I be cheeky and ask for the LDD for that one?
  3. Redimus
    What's the sticking up and out ridge at the front of the smokebox?
  4. Redimus
    I'd be tempted to lower the whole boiler by a plate or two, as well as shortening the sides of the tank, but otherwise a very interesting little design. If only there was an easy way to motor smaller locos like this.
  5. Redimus
    I tend to prefer to have a 1 stud round plate on top to represent the handle/cap at the top (see the one in my sig for another example), but otherwise I do pretty much the same thing for lamps. It's the most obvious way to represent British steam era head and tail lamps.
  6. Redimus
    I'm not sure how keen I am on a Creator Station. The stations Lego normally do are far from spectacular (although the last two haven't been bad modern station designs), If they did do one, would it include the platform? Would a platform be a separately available build (and would anybody actually want to buy them if they were)?. I could maybe see them doing the station building on it's own, but it'd be hard to make it identifiably a station building without any sign of a platform *and* the fact that, unlike say a firestation of a department store) railway stations tend to vary wildly dependent of country and importance of location. Perhaps it's one of those I don't see it until TLG pulls it out and I'm all over it, but for now, I still can't see it.
  7. Redimus
    Really nice 08 representation, although, as Heppeng said, I'm not sure where everyone is getting the idea it's 6 wide! lol
  8. Redimus
    I think they didn't have enough material for their last issue, so held the stuff back to include in the next one.
  9. Redimus
    I did option two, minus the polarity switch, I just put the second motor in backwards. It's not idea having the hole for the wire the wrong side of the motor, but it doesn't actually seem to affect the train at all., also I used old (and very long technic wires plus short modern wires to convert to the right type of connection, but that was because I happened to have the old wires spare.
  10. Redimus
    Somebody did manage a half decent A4 using only Emerald Night parts. Im not sure I'd be happy with it in my roster (to be fair, I'm not sure I'd be happy with Emerald Night in my roster either), but it was a very good result considering the parts available.
  11. Redimus
    I just work on a default width of (roughly) 7 wide (but not strictly) and play the rest by eye. I prefer steam era UK trains, which are very difficult to achieve the level of detail I want as it is, and limiting myself by insisting on sticking to very strict measurements in a medium that is inherently out of scale with reality anyway seems rather self defeating (especially as I'm still relatively new to this, and really don't know all the tricks yet). Sure am impressed by the guys that do manage it mind.
  12. Redimus
    Everyone always says they want an A4, but I really doubt TLG would manage to do the engine justice without an insane parts count and a build that is a lot more difficult than the usual expert set builds.
  13. Redimus
    Are the buffers/couplings attached to the loco of the bogies? You may find problems going round corners if it's attached to the loco it's self. You best bet would be to copy the Maersk loco's set up of having the lower portion of the steps and the buffer beam attached to the bogies.
  14. Redimus
    So jelly right now... :P
  15. Redimus
    That'd be the one.
  16. Redimus
    I'm not much of an architect, so I've decided to buy the odd City building then mod it to the point where it's actually fit for purpose. Admittedly, it's not the cheapest (my city firestation upgrade has easily cost as much when the original set plus additional parts are accounted for as any modular) but it has the advantage of being basically my own creation and designed specifically to fit where I want it to be. I love the one modular I've bought so far, but it's rather large and therefore doesn't fit where I want to (although ironically, is smaller than my firestation), and is so nice I really don't want to significantly modify it.
  17. Redimus
    Michaelgale's flickr is like a one stop guide on how to Lego.
  18. Redimus
    Has it got the rubber traction (elastic) bands on the wheels?
  19. Redimus
    Yeah, the problem I've had is getting the rest of the trucks to look as good! Cheers! As soon as I've received the rest of the bits for my current project (a very comprehensive mod of the most recent firestation set), I'll ordering the bits for the next two trucks (probably the tanker and one of the two types of van).
  20. Redimus
    Been thinking about this myself, as it's something I'll need to do at some point, my collection of 9v powered locos has gotten big enough where it is no longer always possible to make sure all but one of the locos are isolated at all times. Only reason I have yet to look further into it myself is that the current layout is probably not going to stay as it currently is for long enough to make it worth while yet. As for the actual question, I think the easiest way would be to re-wire the standard 9v motor bogie. Instead of the wires leading directly from the pick ups to the motor, have a wire connected to the pick ups at one end, go out via a drilled hole in the motor bogie and end with a standard (modern) Lego wire end, and another set of wires going from the motor via the same hole to another (modern) Lego wire end. This does not, however, solve the biggest problem with PF, which is sometimes it doesn't notice the signal from the controller (which can prove problematic when the train is about to fly off a curve because it's going too fast). Personally, I think a better solution (although probably more expensive) would be to go with actual DCC, either fitting the chips in the motor or in a similar way to how I suggest using PF with the motor, or to go for a DCC like system designed specifically for Lego (there's at least one thread discussing one particular system in this forum). EDIT, it turns out the thread I was thinking off is designed with PF in mind only, so would need the same modifications anyway.
  21. Redimus
    Just do what I've done... Have your railway in the room underneath a room getting completely rebuilt. The sheer amount of dust dislodged from the ceiling is bad enough, but the builders managed to make a hole in the ceiling two right above the railway, so it's strewn with 'weathering'... Seriously though, it can be difficult to brick build weathering, as it tends to just look like you didn't have enough of the right bit, and I wouldn't paint on weathering after. I've often wondered if the marbled Megablocks stuff locks on solidly enough to standard Lego, and there are enough of the right bits in the right colours to make weathered stuff that way.
  22. Redimus
    Just pick a surface you want to build on (floor, table or tables, or whatever) and start laying track, see what you can do!
  23. Redimus
    *All* of my table divers have been when the HE has bee under loaded. Built the loco, decided to give it a while before I built the coaches, right off the table it went. Due to space issues, ran it as a 2 power car (one powered) three coach set for a while, I over powered it in a corner, my mate forgot the points were against it and went the wrong way. Then I added a second motor, and a brand spanking new set of batteries, and drove it strait off the table again... Since then, the batteries have dulled a bit and it's been able to maintain it's high speed over the curve safely, and anyway, due to it's awkward length and not liking multiple sets of Lego points since I fully articulated the whole rake of coaches, I've put it on static display for the time being.
  24. Redimus
    Very nice.
  25. Redimus
    Yup, reducing the gap was a very good idea.
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