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Everything posted by Redimus
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It's not too bad if it's one or two, if you end up having to use a lot in a row (one of my early layouts I ran out of straights and needed a couple of long straight sidings for the Yellow Freight set's container crane), it gets really loud, and worse still, sounds a lot like a derailed train.
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I would stick with Lego's own track at first. I don't think the ME track is cheaper than Lego, and is really intended for the more hardcore Lego train enthusiast. I've no doubt their products are good, and I've no doubt that in time davidmull may well come to dececide he wants/needs the extra options offered by ME's tracks, but right now, all it does is confuse the issue when he's trying to just get started.
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Very smart.
- 11 replies
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- power functions
- shunter
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Mearsk is a great build and looks great when you're finished. I got mine for around what andythenorth quoted and I haven't yet regretted it. It's the only official Lego build I've seen that even comes close to the lever of detail I'd like to see. Personally I have very little interest in the current freight set. The loco looks a bit small and weedy (and not as nice as the electric from the last freight set to my admittedly European eyes), and the wagons all either look lazy of daft (that cattle wagon....). I have to say I do like the look of the van and loading dock though. If you haven't got much track or rolling stock though, you're probably better off getting the cheaper and far more complete freight set, and hoping that the Mearsk set doesn't get too much more expensive in the near future (prices have been reasonably stable in the time I've been looking). Also, there's nothing stopping you looking up the instructions online, and using LDD designing your own version (using easier to find colours) and ordering the bits on Bricklink. I build a couple of extra (slightly redesigned) wagons and a couple of (considerably redesigned) containers to complement mine.
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That's a nice build. My only suggestion would be to bricklink for one of the older 9v era buffer beams, because the magnet was separate (not many buffer stops include a coupling lol).
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I need to build up the courage to modify the points to remove that bloody awful exit orientation. Fed up of having to seriously restrict my choice of tracks for the HE because it falls off the more wobbly bits.
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Can't speak for the EN, but the Mearsk is a really great build, and the HE isn't bad either.
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A member who mostly posts in the Technic section... I bet he knows almost as much about lego train building as I do about lego technic building (which is near bugger all, which is a shame, because a better knowledge of motors and gearing would really help my MOCs).
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Maybe he's not as comfortable with the shops (especially bricklink, which can be very confusing on the first attempt) as you are. And even if he was comfortable with them, he knows nothing about the track, and probably doesn't want to risk spending money on the wrong thing, so this question was totally valid.
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It's 'for the boy', yet you have some obviously AFOL builds, lol. I like your style!
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Yeah, all the same colour.
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Flexy is not very good. It looks kind of ugly, is hellish loud when run over and provides a lot of extra drag. If you aren't using 9v (doesn't sound like you are), you can use any all of the currently available track together, along with any 9v era track (same track but with metal topped rails)
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I've tried both fixed bogie floating lone axle and fixed axle floating bogie and have found the latter to be the more satisfactory, both for looks and operation.
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The standard solution is to have the powered bogie pivot under the tender with an extra set of wheels attached to the tender. It worked well on my Q class which arguably has a smaller tender than a King, so should be fine with a little extra space to play with. The King isn't a bad choice, as they have very large sticky-out cylinders which is easiest type you can manage with standard Lego techniques.
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Some PF cables are backwards compatible on the underside of the end bricks, but not all. I think all the standard cables are, all the cables leading out of something arn't (so if you want to use old cables, you'll need to buy the shortest available loose PF cable for each end).
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There's nothing stopping you buying the current none-electrified track and using it for PF trains to run alongside your existing 9v stuff, just don't expect the 9v to work on the PF stuff. What part of the world are you hoping to represent? If it's European (and especially British) you will really struggle to fit the PF Battery pack and receiver into a decent looking representation of anything steam. If the US, you'll probably have plenty of space for it, but you'll run into the problem of long locos on toy curves. Personally, I'm all for 9v, even though I only got into it last year, it didn't take me long to realise it was the only reasonable way forward for my choice of rolling stock.
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I don't think Emerald Night is worth the money. I got started by downloading Lego Digital Designer, trying to design my own loco from scratch (with no real idea of tolerances) getting fed up then borrowing one of Murdoch 17's designs (or in this case redesign of the Loan Ranger set) and modifying it extensively. He's even provided LDD files for all his designs: Click Me! (Something I keep meaning to do myself.) Since then I've gone on to design some 6 wide (standard Lego train width) coaches for the engine (see first picture), then gone on to design my first entirely own design loco (although with a lot of useful ideas and discussions from this forum) based on a Southern Railway Q class and a rake of trucks, all in 7 wide (which I think looks a bit more natural than the Lego standard, see second picture). (I've build more trucks since then... should really photo them!). If you want any of my designs (which I haven't already posted here), feel free to PM me, although bare in mind some f the designs haven't yet been published because the LDD files no longer reflect reality! That said, I really recomend designing your own, you will learn a hell of a lot more through trial and error and you'll love the result a hell of a lot more too! The custom rods used for both engines come from another regular on these forums, zephyr1934, and pretty much any and all parts needed that weren't already in my collection came from the same place his store is in, BrickLink.
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Horizon Express 8 wide building suggestions
Redimus replied to edsmith0075's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Whilst we're on the subject of modifying HE, has anybody managed to do a fully articulated coaches (for argument's sake, 2x the base set) that don't ride off of standard Lego points when in standard parallel sidings or passing loop configurations? I've tried several ideas and none have really improved it. -
Do red train bases exist?
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I'm reasonably certain it does actually, there are one or two jobbing Thomas stand-ins, and as none of them are mainline certificated, they have to go by road. Infact I'm reasonably certain at least one of them is officially licensed by the production company behind Thomas (or was back when I still attended these things), Brit Alcroft. These tend to be the events with the 3d faces (one such event happened early in Tornado's existence resulting in Tornado wearing a Thomas face when in post works grey). It wasn't very convincing... Thomas was based on a London Brighton and South Coast Railway (LB&SCR, then later Southern Railway) E4 class, of which sadly there are no survivors. Due to their similar look and numerous survivors, the London Midland and Scottish Railway's (LMS) 3F 'Jinties' tend to be used for Thomas events, all of which remain working locomotives for the purposes of Thomas events.
- 15 replies
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- Steam engine
- Thomas the tank engine
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London Transport 0-6-0pt Pannier ex-GWR 5700 (WIP)
Redimus replied to Srbandrews's topic in LEGO Train Tech
That's what I did with the Q class and it works well, although the clearances between the brackets they're attached to and the wheels are minimal, which means you can't really allow for pivoted or floating wheelsets (you could use less brackets but I chose against that due to less structural integrity and the holes that would have left in the footplate along the side).- 26 replies
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- gwr
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Horizon Express 8 wide building suggestions
Redimus replied to edsmith0075's topic in LEGO Train Tech
I've been thinking about that too (although I'd probably go 7 wide), and honestly, I think it needs a complete redesign thanks to the nose not being upscaleable and the fact that it isn't really all that close to the TGV's overall shape. -
London Transport 0-6-0pt Pannier ex-GWR 5700 (WIP)
Redimus replied to Srbandrews's topic in LEGO Train Tech
I can wholeheartedly recommend zephyr's rods (hmm, that sounds a tad risque), they really do make a massive difference. As for your own MOC, my only criticism is it looks a little too... how to put it... Ivor the Engine. You've got the details, and some of the proportions, but the whole thing looks a bit on the short side. Otherwise great build and nice attention to detail.- 26 replies
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Yeah, but considering Novelty was an abject failure of a locomotive that took part in the Rainhill trials, and the Rainhill trials already have a very famous Loco to remember them by, I doubt that's what they're selling us. Also, it can be be described as a light passenger loco, not a heavy haul loco.
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In the space of less than a year I've gone from 'yey, official Lego train sets' to 'pfft, how childish', thanks to my ability to steal everyone else's good ideas and make it look like my own work, lol. (Also, as a Brit (which is technically European), HE and the Yellow freight set appeal to me a lot more than the blue freight set.) As a result I wasn't all that interested in the current train sets (outside of any possible new Creator set), but your idea suddenly makes me very keen to pick up one just so I can see what I can build out of it. It may well have been, but all we see is a huge lump of gibberish.