Redimus
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The prototype does have a rather short and fat boiler, which makes the second version more accurate, especially with flatter smokebox door and handrail on the smokebox door. But I have to say I too still prefer the first version. I really don't see the point in keeping the boiler and basically rebuilding everything else when it's only the boiler I'm not entirely happy with. I spent a lot of time getting the chassis to work in a way where there's a little bit of footplate beyond the sides of the cab and tender in the same way there is with the prototype, and to still ensure it was the same height along the whole engine without fowling the wheels, and I'm very happy with the result. The one thing I'm very happy about the second version is the slightly larger smokebox, which I'd all but given up hope of achieving.
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Update. Given it a bigger boiler. If anything, this one is a little too big. LDD file.
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Very nice.
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God, I'd love to be able ot set up in the garden... (well, it's more of a yard but there is *some* grass...) Sadly, the Chavs would have a field day. The joys of living in the north of England...
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Even on an open layout, finding line of sight csn prove a hit n miss affair (especially if the sensor is dlightly obscured, looking at you Yellow Freight Engine). I started goung over to 9v track powered because it makes designing stesm locos easier, but having had a full layout of it for a few months now, im seriously considering abandoning IR entirely.
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Thanks for the input guys. I'll do some experiments with the suggestions on boiler and chimney when I get a chance. As for the footplate whilst I'm aware that it's a bit wider than I would have hoped, I have already spent a lot of time trying to achieve what I wanted and really can't see how I can get closer to teh required effect at the moment. I'm sure that can be arranged.
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Again, I don't think it's wide enough, but that is an excellent potential chimney for future projects.
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Con Rod: I'll use a set of the custom ones zephyr produces. Tender axles: The rear wheel is permanently attached to the tender, the other wheels (the motor) pivot, so making it around the curves *should* be OK. If it doesn't work, I have a plan B. Tender coupling: Yeah, I'm aware the tender is probably too close (although the fact it's attached to the already pivoting powered wheels may or may not help), I just need to swap out what kind of Technic bar connects the two halves of the tender coupling to make it fit round curves. The advantage with this design is it allows it to look nice and close coupled when merely on display. Hmmm. My plan was to make the main 'bulk' (ie cab and tender) 7 wide, and allow some bits to be wider, which I've achieved. It took a *lot* of work to get the footplate right so it was consistent along the whole engine and tender and allowed for the very slight plate along the side of the tender. It's possible I could move the splashers (wheel arches?) further in to be a little bit more in line with the wheels, I'm not sure that it would overall improve the look. Fix one thing, break several more things. The other problem is keeping the footplate strong enough to be viable and still clearing the wheels. This is something I will be able to experiment with more when I build it in real Lego (clearances aren't always perfect on LDD). ------------------------ The main thing I would like to fix is the smokebox door. I had hoped to make it flat (like the prototype) and have a handrail of some sort (like the prototype) and it just doesn't seem to work no matter how I try it.
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Modifying track geometry and homemade 90 deg crossing
Redimus replied to v6TransAM's topic in LEGO Train Tech
At the moment I have a layout I'm happy with, but in future relays I may try it. -
Modifying track geometry and homemade 90 deg crossing
Redimus replied to v6TransAM's topic in LEGO Train Tech
I like the change to the points. Quedtion is, am I willing to do that to my 9v ones? -
JopieK, already motorised, standard 9v rail powered motor under the tender. Murdock17, I considered that, and it looked rather good, but it doesn't fit the relatively short and fat chimney of the prototype.
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Done some of the tweeks suggested by you guys. I think it's close to being considered done for now, although I probably won't be investing in actual brick until next month. The tire used for the chimney is held on using a single stud at the moment, not sure if that'll work IRL (I had to kinda trick LDD to achieve it), I'll probably have to use 2 rather than one. I could have used the 1x1 round brick, but I didn't like the stud sticking our on top.
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Yeah, the chimney and dome do need looking at again. I kinda just whacked em on as place holders whilst I got on with he more difficult bits.
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Ohh! Worked it out! Left, in place and side view, right, finished article!
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I forgot they ere there as well, I've used one to make it appear the robot yellow robot arm (representing a bent pipe coming from the boiler) is connected to the footplate. I'll just used dark grey for the buffers, I think anything larger looks too big. As for the smokebox door: I've tried moving the attachment point one plate's thickness lower, but it looks, if anything worse.
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That's rather surprising. I'll just use a yellow one, pretend it's part of the pipe. And yeah, I probably should use the 2x1 cheese wedge! The only real issue I have is I've this method used, with the smokebox door pretty much perfectly central, and I can't work out how they've done it. I have also toyed with using the flat round plate instead of the radar dish (the original's door is pretty flat, I just wish they did a tile version so it didn't have all the studs sticking out.
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Well, goddamn... That makes life easier!
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I've considered all of those and while it gives a better curve, it also renders a larger boiler, this isn't *that* big of an engine, and while it doesn't really matter as long as I looks OK on the loco, as I build more locos, oddly large boilers on smaller locos will become more obvious (and although I probably will end up rebuilding old locos, I'd rather not plan to do that in advance!). Anyway, it's not perfect, but here's what I've come up with using cheese wedges (with a fair bit of help from google image search and flickr): And, because why not, a look inside the cab: I need to do a detailed how to for this boiler type at some point, even with the pictorial help online, I still needed to work it out myself before I could use it. Before I do that though, I need to make sure it actually works!
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I've decided to make a set of Southern Railway (ish) 7 wide (ish) freight wagons and a loco to go with, and to that end, I wanted something fairly simple to model while I get the hand of 7 wide building (so far, it's a b******d). I've selected the Maunsell Q class 0-6-0 tender engines and so far, it's all going OK (after a lot of farting around getting the footplate to match along the whole engine without fouling the driving wheels). The Prototype. Progress so far. Unfortunately, I'm really having some issues with the boiler. I've tried using the 4 wide round parts, but there seems to be no obvious way to connect them to the front and back without some ugly gaps and too many compromises. Do you guys have any suggestions as to how I could make that work? Alternatively, I'm gonna try the 5 stud wide cheese wedge built boiler I've seen online, but I'm not entirely sold on that either. Also, does anybody have a suggestion on 2 similar methods to build a boiler I could combine to show the slightly wider smokebox?
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I bought a couple (and a half) of official sets (a full yellow freight set, the wagons, truck and a crane from the same set and the HE (technically 2 sets, but it's one train, so I'm counting it as one). After that, although I've been tempted by others but not bought any because I'm slowly building up a load of MOC stock. At the moment I have 1 steam engine, a couple of coaches (a third is in the process of the bits arriving) and I am in the process of slowly designing the rolling stock and loco for a roughly 7wide steam era freight train (Southern Railway-ish).
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It's also relatively expensive (although not Maersk/EN expensive) because it's been discontinued for a while.
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Or go for the red one, with it's snazzy red battery box. :P
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I think the general opinion is that it'll be replaced next year, so you have a bit of time still. My opinion of the Creator trains is that the Maersk one probably is the best looking (just won it on ebay, w00t), with HE not far behind. As a lifelong fan of steam, I am really unimpressed with EN. The coach is lazy, and the engine really doesn't look much like the prototype, or anything else to be honest. No way would I pay what I just dropped on Maersk for EN. As for which freight train, I'd probably go for the yellow (which should still be available on ebay for around RRP). I like both locos, but the yellow one, being European in outline, and (IMO) a little more realistic is probably my fav, both sets have 2 nice trucks, and one rubbish one (although the cattle truck in the blue set is a lot more rubbish than the rather basic car flat wagon). I can't say which I prefer for the cargoes or side vehicles, but the one place that the blue one totally wins out for me is the loading facility. The Yellow one is nice, but the blue one is basically a whole diorama (and I like the use of the old rails). Of course, all this could change if I ever pick up the blue set.
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That's prototypical of the 9Fs, they really did have that huge gap.
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I got the freight one (well, the freight one for the time, the yellow one) then built from there. The Horizon Express is a pretty poor choice for a first train, not only does it have no track or power functions, it's only really half a train. Later on though, the HE is *well* worth getting.