JJ2

Eurobricks Counts
  • Content Count

    1049
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JJ2

  1. JJ2

    Tatra 815 8x8 help!

    You can't put all three on 1 output, I use a typical 3 channel car remote, the FlySky FS-GT3B, on the receiver there are 3 ports + a battery port (you would need a different remote with more channels, more on that later) to have two motors that you can control direction independently of each other you will have to buy two ESC's, I would recommend the HobbyWing 1060 brushed ESC, it's relatively cheap and works well. You would need to buy a servo-wire splice with one female end and two male ends, so you can plug the female side into the receiver motor port and the two male side into the ESC. To get independent motor control you would need a switch that would reverse the polarity of the wires coming out of the ESC, switching the negative and positive, that would be actuated by a servo. Doing that would reverse one motor so you can tank steer, keep in mind after doing that pulling the throttle stick would make it turn in place, lets say the previous forward would be turn left, and the previous reverse would be turn right. For the steering you need two ports, one for the front steering, one for the rear like you want. The total receiver you need for the cheapest option are, 1 for drive, 1 for drive-motor reverse, 1 for rear-steer, and 1 for front-steer, so a total of 4, lights and winch would have to be manual. I would recommend signing up to a hobby RC web-sight, I'll PM you the link to avoid posting here, the people there are a lot smarter with this them me and might have a much better idea.
  2. JJ2

    Tatra 815 8x8 help!

    Okay thanks for clarifying on the drive-chain, since you're using two different drive axles and metal parts, two 540 can-sized motors would work well, you would have enough space with the 8x8 size. I think the 3-4 speed transmission would be overkill because when you get more and more speeds the amount of gears skyrockets and you gain lots of friction with typical Lego transmission driving rings with all the unused gears. I would recommend an un-sequenced transmission inspired by Sariels Heave Duty Linear Transmission but using 3:1 gear ratios and 1:1, the Traxxas Summit, a very good crawler uses a 25:1 and a 75:1 gearbox, mostly the same concept but it uses a more transmission-driving-ring inspired design. Last thing about the transmission, those 550 can motors if you get a high turn version can be VERY torque-y and if you are using two of them you should be fine with only 2 speeds. I would recommend a 35t motor or something around there, they are a good mix of torque and speed.
  3. JJ2

    Tatra 815 8x8 help!

    What scale would you be planning on building in? If you using one motor for each side of the vehicle so you can tank steer along with regular steering I would recommend two brushed 380 can-sized motors for 1/10 but anything larger would stress them without a very large gear reduction, 540-550 can-size motors would work for 1/8 well but would be hard to deliver that torque through Lego parts. If you want 1 motor for both sides 1/10 a 540-550 motor would be fine, for 1/8 a 540-550 would be fine also you would just have to get a higher-turn motor gain more torque but loose speed. I think a Nimh battery would work fine, easier to use and does not take an expensive charger, 6-cell would work fine, for lights a small 1 cell LiPo would be fine. For your controller, I think an airplane-type controller would most likely work fine but I just use the standard 3-channel car transmitter. I think you would need about 6 channels, drive-steering-rear steering-lights-transmission-transmission, but if you wanted a winch and different controlled sides of the drive chain that would be 2 other channels which would cost a lot. If you wanted different controlled drive-chains to tank steer that would require two ESC's which would be a higher cost and would require a much better radio, one that you can program. I would recommend only a two-speed transmission, three speeds would be a little overkill.
  4. JJ2

    Technic Pub

    When is the technic forum theme going to be put back on? still trying to work on it and figure out the polls?
  5. I have the first edition and love it, it helped me so much when I first got it, I would buy this version but I already have experience with the new chapters contents
  6. TLG has replaced a few parts for me, I would just contact them again and tell them what happened, I'm sure they will send another part
  7. JJ2

    Technic Photography

    Amazing photo, what did you use to light up the ground?
  8. JJ2

    [MOC] Jeep Wrangler

    Yet another incredible MOC, I like the suspension a lot, I had an idea like that and was going to use it in one of my crawlers but never did. Because of the way the suspension was made when it travels does it change the steering angle?
  9. JJ2

    Test Poll 2

    Worked for me, using Firefox
  10. JJ2

    Test Poll

    Still does not work for me, I'm using firefox by the way
  11. JJ2

    Test Poll

    This did not work for me, confusing...
  12. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but an Sbrick will get fried by a brushless motor if they were even compatible. Lego motors are brushed so they have 2 wires, while brushless motors have 3 wires, and require a brushless system, the Sbrick is brushed so it will not work. Your best bet is to get a 1100mah or higher Mimh-LiPo battery, brushless ESC, a FlySky remote-reciever combo because it is cheap but high quality, and a 380 brushless motor, anything else with a larger can size will be much harder to deal with, @PorkyMonster has used a 540 in his builds with success though.
  13. JJ2

    Show us your Working Place

    I made a border out of big duplo blocks for my desk
  14. JJ2

    Show us your Working Place

    @Mesabi I have large 2.5~foot drawers with deviders in them and they are full of parts and I use sort them by type of part and usefulness, I don't have any labels and after years of using it I still use the wrong draws 50% of the time or more when I need 1/2 beams or gears
  15. JJ2

    Effe's MOC Corner

    That looks like a 3d printed differential, its like a lego one but has thicker walls so it does not grind
  16. Doing this will deform the tire, I don't recommend doing it, I did it with the 81.6mm over 9398 hubs and they are much larger then they used to be and don't grab the rim very well anymore.
  17. Same here, I thought it was just me
  18. Sounds interesting, I think that you should not be able to use LiPo's though, they give you a huge advantage to people that can't afford them-don't have any. I don't like motor limiting except no Buggy motor's Definitely no Buwizz, Sbrick would be ok because it keeps the same voltage.
  19. Nice idea, this is a thrust bearing, have you considered using GBC balls?
  20. The feet of a massive bird MOC
  21. JJ2

    Technic Pub

    That does sounds fun, I don't know if I will ever race my 1/10 scale anywhere but I will definitely drive it a lot and maybe jump it.
  22. I would recommend getting on craigslist and 5miles maybe even LetGo to try to find a Used RC, I recently bought a Cen Racing Fun Factor Nitro for a whooping $30, I have spent around $40 fixing the engine and now it only needs fuel and a pull start.
  23. @msk6003 you can do something like this But I bought a 3mm brass tube from my local home depot that fit over the output shaft, got some JB weld, and a lego 12T bouble bevel gear. I first hollowed out the bevel gears axle hole large enough to fit around the 3mm brass tubing then I cut 2 small notches in the tubing like this https://youtu.be/3nEcxWDQrhw except I staggered the notches for extra strength. I then JB welded the 12T gear to the brass tubing and put a toothpick in the tubing to stop the JB weld from seeping through the notches, I let it set overnight then took the toothpick out. After that I got some pliers and put the adapter on the motor and using the pliers crimped the tubing on the flat part on the output shaft, don't be concerned about breaking the shaft, try to squeeze the pliers as hard has you can to get it to fit the flat spot. The first time I did this I did not squeeze it really hard and it just slipped off and stopped working. The way the video does it above make sure to use a piece of thick aluminum or steel now paper, the motor will rip through that like nothing.
  24. JJ2

    Thrust Ball Bearing

    Looks very interesting, do you think the liftarms will get worn out quickly? I would think that after a full day of turning they will have considerable wear compared to Lego parts. Maybe you could redesign it to fit bearings so it will last a very long time.
  25. Since you already have LiPo's you will need, an ESC, transmitter, receiver, and a servo To my knowledge every hobby grade RC servo and receiver has the same plug No, it is not, the receiver receives the radio waves from the transmitter and the receiver plugs into the ESC, the ESC receives commands sent from the receiver and power the motor and servo. I would recommend using THIS ESC, it has worked very well for me and has never let me down, just make sure not to loose the tabs that plug into it like I did. I use THIS transmitter-receiver combo and it works great, it fell's a tiny bit cheap but the screen and all the options is great to have. For the servo, it depends on how much toque you want, you can get a micro servo which does not have very much torque or you can get a standard servo with titanium gears that can move a small mountain I personally use THIS one though. For the motor I use a traxxas 550 12T motor and Effermans motor brace found on Shapeways, the motor is very good for Lego, it has reasonably high speeds and has not broken a single gear except weak single bevel 12T's, you can also use a 380 motor but just make sure to not ever stress them, I went through 2 because I over stressed them, when using a 380 its good to stay in scales below 1/10 like 1/12-1/18 but when using a 550 its good to stay in 1/10 scale.