SavaTheAggie

Eurobricks Knights
  • Content count

    827
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About SavaTheAggie

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Trains

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ikros.net
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Extra

  • Special Tags 1
    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/style_images/flags/train4.gif
  • Special Tags 2
    http://brickzone.net/images/eurobricks/staff_stuff/moc_tag.gif

Recent Profile Visitors

1717 profile views
  1. SavaTheAggie

    Trix Brix review

    There's a video on my Flickr that illustrates the clutch. TL;DR: the top studs aren't bad, the bottom anti-studs only work in specific orientations. --Tony
  2. SavaTheAggie

    Trix Brix review

    Take a look at the inside of the rail on the right side of the image, near the joint. That might help illustrate what I'm trying to say regarding the tape. --Tony
  3. SavaTheAggie

    Trix Brix review

    I think 9v is dead and it isn't worth the effort. There have been 3 different LEGO train systems since 9v died. I think any manufacturer considering 9v is asking to lose money. And without new motors, power regulators, and track power connectors, having new 9v track is an exceedingly short term solution. Beyond that, the texture of the 3D print, I would imagine, would interfere with the tape. The top of the rails are smooth no doubt, but the 9v motor picks up power off the inside of the rail, and there are several places where the inside of the rails are not smooth in the least, covered in grooves and artifacts of the 3D printing process. --Tony
  4. SavaTheAggie

    Trix Brix review

    I've posted a review of my experience with a few Trix Brix products on Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHskM3uSFy There are a few videos, plus pictures of my attempt to ballast them. The main review write-up is here: I can't say if I'll buy more, I'd much prefer injection molding. But my builds are very club and display oriented, and my views are colored by that. --Tony
  5. SavaTheAggie

    [MOC] Santa Fe EMD F7A Warbonnet #315

    Thank you all for the kind words. It was a fun build, but admittedly she was a proof of concept, allowing me to move forward with my plans to build a full Texas & Pacific Texas Eagle consist. The windshields are held in by grill tiles, which are held together by magic, force of will, and the magic of friendship (and a hefty dose of work by Nate Brill). Instructions will be soon found in my Bricklink shop. My goal is before December. --Tony
  6. SavaTheAggie

    [MOC] No. 111

    Well done indeed. --Tony
  7. SavaTheAggie

    [MOC] NYC J3A 4-6-4 Hudson - Empire State Express

    This looks good, well done. The Empire State Express has been on my list, though I've been thinking of building it more recently for reasons I won't get into here. I hope to see yours in real brick someday. --Tony
  8. SavaTheAggie

    PF tracks/switch not lining up?

    There is a flaw in the power function all plastic switch design. The curve turnout doesn't quite match up (a mm or two off) with standard geometry. --Tony
  9. SantaFe_F7_315-01 by Tony Sava, on Flickr I have finally finished my F7A locomotive, just in time for the NMRA National Train Show in Kansas City. Full Gallery SantaFe_F7_315-18 by Tony Sava, on Flickr My design started with modifying the windscreen design pioneered by Nate Brill, working it around the Technic element I chose for the headlight shroud. She runs well, powered by two standard PF train motors. Building the Santa Fe version was actually more of a proof of.concept, my ultimate goal is to build a full Texas and Pacific "Texas Eagle" consist. I may also build a Texas and Pacific freight F7, as they were painted differently. Video of the Warbonnet in action may be found here: --Tony
  10. SavaTheAggie

    (Work in Progress) EMD F7A in 8-Wide

    I couldn't decide if I should start a new topic, but since I don't have a large number of pics, I concluded here was best. I have finished my EMD F7A, complete with stickers by Okbrickworks. EMD F7A Santa Fe Warbonnet by Tony Sava, on Flickr EMD F7A Santa Fe Warbonnet by Tony Sava, on Flickr I currently have no plans to make a matching B unit for this locomotive, this was more of a proof of concept. However I am planning A+B locomotives and a full passenger consist in the Texas & Pacific "Texas Eagle" livery. --Tony
  11. SavaTheAggie

    (Work in Progress) EMD F7A in 8-Wide

    Real world progress. Santa Fe F7A WiP#4 by Tony Sava, on Flickr --Tony
  12. SavaTheAggie

    Name of the fictional Lego train company?

    The best place to start, in my opinion, would be the Emerald Night. On it's tender it gives us the name of the LEGO railway that operates it - LRTS So now what does that stand for? Obviously "L" is for LEGO. "R" maybe railway or railroad. Maybe rail? I'm guessing "S" is system. "T" could be train, but that seems superfluous if "R" is railway, etc. Maybe "LEGO Railway Transit System". --Tony
  13. SavaTheAggie

    BrickTracks: R104 Switch Kickstarter is LIVE!

    I backed the project as soon as I saw it. --Tony
  14. SavaTheAggie

    MOCer's will you buy the new train sets?

    I'd buy a set with a steam engine in it, but I have little interest in buying a box on wheels. --Tony
  15. SavaTheAggie

    Okay, help me with PF train motors

    I'm grasping at straws here, but is it all possible they aren't going slower, but they don't have enough grip? Is it possible the o-rings on he new motors are more slippery than the older motors? Maybe try swapping wheels and see if that makes and difference. --Tony EDIT: I reread the original post and realized my answer doesn't really make much sense. Sorry. Have you attempted to power the motors with a traditional IR receiver? Do you still have the issues?