SD100

Could you just cut the pin in half instead?

My bank account is fearing the day you release these things...

Man, I should really have bought all my parts before I posted this... Now were all gonna be fighting for the green on bricklink...

I've managed to put together an LDD parts list, with a few exceptions. LDD does not seem to have 1x1 brackets, so on the trucks in this model those were replaced with 1x1x2 w/ studs on side. Also, the 2x1x2 bricks in this parts list are dark green instead of just green. One of the 4x4 plates with 2x2 cutout is light grey instead of medium. It took my computer almost an hour to go through all the steps to get this PDF made so I'm not going to regenerate it any time soon but this gets you a list of *almost* everything you need. Parts list is for the locomotive, tender, and auxiliary tender. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YqtkDdP87d_BeGD4VoUIl8vmNQ0mxDex/view As another note, the 1x1 cheese pieces in Step 8 interfered with the large gear when I tried to build it IRL. I don't know if there is a newer version of that large gear, but due to that I omitted them in my build. Da Mangos didn't know what he started on here, lol. But it is an awesome engine, and all credit still goes to him.

Thank you!

You wouldn't still have them sitting in your downloads folder by any chance would you? Putting them from paper back into the computer would be too much of a hassle...

Or at least if Damangos is gone maybe someone who has the instructions could shoot them out to us, maybe?

Some great trains there. You happen to know if there's pics of that dark red steamer anywhere else?

Nice. If you're set on realism take a fan off and make it a gp38. It does look great with the high hood though.

A lot of detail right there. Real nice. Were you intending to emulate a Progress Rail rebuild or did you just like the radiators that way? And is that supposed to be an antigrav dewitt rebuild alco or am I hallucinating?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uvNncq3c2ZvjwfVs5 Here you can see how the motor rests on top of a 2x3 plate with holes. The green bricks are 1x2s with stud on one side, 3 of them hold the motor. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRvTfG1dyWZCCUGJ6 Here you can see the array of 8 jumpers that hold the motor mount on top and allow it to attach to the top plates of the boiler, and the boat weight in the boiler. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zz5WRMSH7P2p7Rkw7 And this shows the gears and offset achieved from the technic beams the same was as JANGbricks did, at what is here the grey and white technic bricks, but with the standard frame retained. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cLRxdJd3NprPFzeQ7 And here is my slightly more elegant firebox solution Icemorons, How did you achieve the 1/2 stud offset? Trainfan, the R40 curves really seem to give it trouble. A boat weight in the boiler helped a little bit for me but any unusual curve transition still throws the lead truck off the tracks. I am still trying though, I have at least one more front truck redesign I have to try.

I just copied the video, after some experimentation I don't recommend his method, you can put the motor in the exact same place if you keep the stock technic beams. I can take some pics of my setup if it would help you.

Looks like the instructions are down again... :(

I put a boat weight in the boiler, and all it does it derail. on normal r40 curves it rides right up the side of the rail and over about 50% of the time. I've redesigned the lead truck about 10 times but no luck yet.

Thanks all. That was exactly the information I was trying to find.