ejayb

Eurobricks Vassals
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About ejayb

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  1. I’ve pressed maybe 25 BBs into a 1x2 bricks with a single technic hole and haven’t noticed any stressed cracks (but I will double check now). I have 4 that don’t roll so well. I can see that some of the plastic material has ‘scrapped’ away from the wall of the technic hole which could be causing friction.
  2. ejayb

    Powered Up Lithium DIY

    Two sets of Ladda’s would still cost more than two Znter batteries and that’s before the cost of a charger (which is less convenient). True, the train motor will easily derail at somewhere around power level 75 with the Znter. But for lower speed shunting, the consistency is nicer with a constant voltage.
  3. ejayb

    Powered Up Lithium DIY

    NiZn is probably the best drop in solution but expensive if you include the charger. If I could borrow a set, I would do a comparison with the Znter.
  4. ejayb

    Powered Up Lithium DIY

    The battery cradle with 6 AAA cells is 80 grams, the Znter battery with the Veroboard is 38 grams. The Znter battery is smaller and you could ballast the cover or leave the cover off and lower the box by one brick. Philo also has a graph showing the how voltage affects rpm.
  5. ejayb

    Powered Up Lithium DIY

    I believe so. They have a low voltage cutoff and an active charging circuit. Lygte-info carries out very detailed tests on many charging and battery related items and mentions no safety issues with them https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteryDisassembly9VLiIon UK.html
  6. ejayb

    Powered Up Lithium DIY

    There are two main reasons LegoDW. Cost: I paid 12.48€ for two of the Znter batteries. The clips and Veroboard should could a couple of euros at most. 12 750mAh Eneloop cells would have cost me 30€, plus I would need a AAA charger. Voltage: a) Rechargeable NiMh AAA cells have are rated at 1.2v. 6 * 1.2 = 7.2v. A Locomotive with fully charged Eneloops with run slower than with Alkaline or Lithium. b) A NiMh and Alkaline battery (made of 6 cells in series) will rapidly drop from 7.2v and 9v respectively as you begin to use them. This results in your locomotive running slower and slower. The Znter battery will always output 9.5v. In the comparison above, found here, The smaller 400mAh Znter can be seen delivering 9.4v for 300mAh. A 9v alkaline battery from Ikea starts at 9v, drops rapidly to 7.8 and is then at 6.7v by the time it gets to 300mAh. (I realise this graph isn't a comparison of Eneloops/6*AAA and the Znter but it does represent the voltage drop well, regardless of capacity) On the other hand, Capacity: The Znter is rated for 600mAh but I imagine testing would show 500mAh. Eneloops are rated for 750mAh, so in theory the Eneloops should run a train for longer (although much slower for the majority of the time).
  7. ejayb

    Powered Up Lithium DIY

    Today I made a quick and easy adapter to run my Powered Up hub from a lithium battery. Information for this project came from Philo and Lygte. The battery: The Znter 9v LiIon battery is rated at 5.4wH. I choose this over the ZIPPY Lipo that Philo used because: It can be recharged via Micro USB It has a constant 9.5v output which means train motors should run at a constant speed regardless of charge level It is available on AliExpress, I can post a link to the seller I used if allowed. I cut a piece of Veroboard to fit the width and height of the AAA insert. Then I soldered a 9v battery clip to the columns that touch the pins inside the hub and scratched away the copper in the middle. It took me a couple of attempts to find the best holes for the clip wires. And I added extra solder at the bottom to push against the pins. The battery and Veroboard fit tightly so no extra padding is needed to keep them in place. The result: I haven't had time to do much testing and I only have a single hub so I can't do a side by side. The hub powers up and works as expected. This could be a placebo but I feel like the train pulls better at low speeds and don't loose as much speed through the corners. This may be because lithium batteries handle high loads better than alkaline so the voltage don't drop when the motor is working harder.
  8. ejayb

    7w Roof on 6w Body

    The blue horizontal support should be directly above the vertical ones, set back below the white/grey roof. Ah yes that would be good
  9. ejayb

    7w Roof on 6w Body

    They wouldn’t allow me to have the reddish brown tiled ledge Which panels? What for? I agree the bricks are too thick but I want to keep the brown ledge at the bottom of the opening.
  10. ejayb

    7w Roof on 6w Body

    Thanks Selander. I tried both of your suggestions. Less supports does look better.
  11. ejayb

    7w Roof on 6w Body

    I'm working on an open summer wagon. The prototype has an overhanging roof with a horizontal blue support running under it. I've used jumpers on the end windows and on top of each vertical support to centre a 7w roof. Then I've used jumpers to fill in the rest of the horizontal support between the windows. Is there a better way to do this?
  12. ejayb

    When Do You Order A MOC?

    Amen to that. Yes, but at least sets generally have a good resale value. I'm generally seeing postage costs between 7€ and 14€. I'm adding any stores with postage above 10€ to my filter list. That's my problem, I'm trying to think objectively. Thanks again everyone
  13. ejayb

    When Do You Order A MOC?

    I agree Alex, I need to see if I get the satisfaction of actually building and running the model. Phil and Zephyr, thanks for the tips, I'll keep those in mind.
  14. I'm new to Lego and it is my first and only collecting hobby. While I enjoy putting together a MOC in Studio, I agonise over optimising the build and trying to order from BrickLink. I live in a smaller EU country so most of the of the suggested carts from Bricklink are international and the postage can easily be half or more of the cost of the order. Free shipping from Lego.com is only for orders above 55€ and we only have Pick-a-Brick, not Bricks and Pieces. I'm am happy with the design and I can afford to place the order but I guess I keep asking myself a) is it really finished and b) is this design worth the cost. When did you decide to order the parts for your first MOC?
  15. McDiesel, try this link: https://web.archive.org/web/20180821133535/http://www.moc-pages.com/user_images/80135/1478540833m.lxf