Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ejayb

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?


  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for the reply Ts. One more question, does it have the same annoying whine as the train motor?
  2. I do have a train motor loco, I should have mentioned. Using a custom controller in the powered up app PoweredUp, I find that will begin moving on straights at power level 18 (out of 50 I believe?) but will shall on the switches. 21 will get it around the switches but then it's already running too fast.
  3. Thanks Thomas I'll be moving less, lighter wagons over level tracks so hopefully 1 will be enough. What gear ratio did you end up with? What range 'speed' are you usually running in the app? I'm hoping that running the motor closer to full speed reduces the whine from the controller. Do you have a thread on the build?
  4. What kind of wagons are you moving? Was two motors necessary?
  5. Following in, has anyone used the 88008 motor?
  6. ejayb

    Lego 10277 - Crocodile Locomotive

    A quick knock up. The front end and the height makes it look a bit silly.
  7. I apologise Lok, I thought only the Technic L and XL motors did speed control. I understand that you have the battery box mounted to two long Technic bricks. How is the motor attached? And what gearing did you use?
  8. 20 is slightly longer than I'd like, but it's not 30 or 40. I also don't have the skills to design a decent model myself. Your example is very nice, but I want to use the 88013 motor for the speed (not power) function.
  9. The crocodiles body is about 20 studs long, a mod based on that might be the easiest and cheapest option.
  10. ejayb

    Lego 10277 - Crocodile Locomotive

    Do the running issues from from the main body and the driven axles or from the two articulated sections? Has anything tried running the body by itself? I'm thinking of buying the croc and building something with just the body for slow, shunting in an R40 yard. Taking inspiration from Ge 2/2 and a local tram among others.
  11. Can anyone point me to some examples of short locomotives powered by the large technic motor 88013? I'm imagining it standing up in the cable driving the rear axle and using roads to transfer power to the front.
  12. ejayb

    [WIP] LEGO Train Layout: Old Bukit Timah Railway Station

    How many sidings will you have? Are those wagons a little big for shunting?
  13. ejayb

    What To Do With R40 Curves

    Maybe a PU L-motor loco would be a better option for me, probably cheaper than several large radius switches
  14. ejayb

    What To Do With R40 Curves

    A couple of comments mentioned using them for slower parts of the layout, but R40’s are a problem for slow, shunting moving, causing the train motor to stall I don’t have a problem with off-brand parts that Lego don’t sell, but I’m undecided about things they do. I assume Lego’s employment and environmental policies are much better than a no-name company trying to produce them as cheap as possible.
  15. Those who have higher radius curves, what did you do with your R40’s? Retired them? Use them on less important parts of your layout? Mixed curves (R56, R40, R56, R40, etc)?