42160 Audi RS Q e-tron

[1gor]

8 hours ago, Maaboo35 said:

Another loader, I'd say. We've had several repeated subjects in the Volvo range, mainly loaders.

This one could be interesting with new tires

[mpj]

11 hours ago, Maaboo35 said:

Those tyres had better be in the next Volvo set or there'll be trouble, TLG!

Also a Liebherr wheel loader would be nice.

[gyenesvi]

8 hours ago, Aerolight said:

The new hubs are weaker in some situations than the old ones as they do not allow for an axle passthrough.

For that you don't need a CV joint, so you can use the simplest (non-steered) hub. It can now be paired with this steered one at the front, as their speed is the same.

8 hours ago, Aerolight said:

I hope Lego adds elements featuring bearings in the next few years...

Sure, melting may be a problem, but standard motors will never be that fast (again) I think, so don't hold your breath for Lego doing parts with bearings. They'd rather play it safer.

[Jundis]

2 hours ago, 1gor said:

This one could be interesting with new tires

1 hour ago, mpj said:

Also a Liebherr wheel loader would be nice.

Yes please! But in this size, the medium LAs would be used, the 2x11 pneumatics would maybe be too big?

[mirrorbricks]

Hello there, part list if somebody needs it https://bricksafe.com/pages/mirrordecks/42160

[Bensch55]

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Edited July 10, 2023 by Bensch55

[gyenesvi]

2 hours ago, Bensch55 said:

No need to wait: https://tf-engineering.at/wheelhub/

Hmm, interesting, though not clear how these work exactly, there aren't much images about it. On some graphics, it is shown without the 3-pin wheel mount. Then, when built into a model, it is shown with what looks like a regular (old) 3-pin wheel mount, and if so, it accepts an old CV joint for drive, which isn't that useful.. Kind of invalidates the use of the ball bearing itself..

[Bensch55]

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Edited July 10, 2023 by Bensch55

[gyenesvi]

41 minutes ago, Bensch55 said:

They work in the exact same way that the OEM Lego ones do, just way better. The ball bearings reduce the rolling resistance significantly as well as the play between housing and rotor. Also, the small form factor allows it to mount directly to a liftarm, which opens the options for mounting dramatically. 

Ok, thanks for the info, I see it now. Compared to the factory hub, the mounting is indeed a bit better for allowing the liftarm directly. Doesn't that weaken the holding of the female CV joint end though? Or the bearing takes care of holding it well?

[Bensch55]

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Edited July 10, 2023 by Bensch55

[XG BC]

On 6/28/2023 at 8:57 AM, gyenesvi said:

Sure, melting may be a problem, but standard motors will never be that fast (again) I think, so don't hold your breath for Lego doing parts with bearings. They'd rather play it safer.

Buggy motor (maybe multiple) can be fast enough i think.

[gyenesvi]

14 hours ago, XG BC said:

Buggy motor (maybe multiple) can be fast enough i think.

Sure, I know, I have used them, but they have a very bad form factor, difficult to integrate into (smaller) AWD vehicle, without putting it into the middle of the cockpit.. Having those motors in a better form factor would be great. I heard that the motor itself can be hacked into the L motor..

[allanp]

38 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

..... I heard that the motor itself can be hacked into the L motor..

Now ya talkin' That would be great. 

[msk6003]

1 hour ago, allanp said:

Now ya talkin' That would be great. 

Actually both motor's internal DC motor itself has same size. So it's not impossible swap internal motor of both. And maybe it will more awesomer if we remove one stage of planetary gear of L motor(I don't like those company but like mould king did in black furious L motor.)

TMI : spike large angular servo/C+ angular motor also use that motor.

Edited July 10, 2023 by msk6003

[Alex Ilea]

2 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

 I heard that the motor itself can be hacked into the L motor..

Buwizz Camp knowledge, I see :)

[gyenesvi]

7 hours ago, allanp said:

Now ya talkin' That would be great. 

6 hours ago, Alex Ilea said:

Buwizz Camp knowledge, I see :)

Exactly :D I am actually thinking of sacraficing some Buwizz motors to try it out some time..

[msk6003]

One more to many information - Train motor also use same motor too but change is hard because it has shaft on both end.

For set, I hope can make some kind of fast buggy as alternate model which use differential as 2:1 acceleration gear. 

[vliet]

Yesterday I built my 42160 but the front wheels are slightly turned to the left, after the first calibration it is a bit better but the wheels are still nog straight. I tried calibration about 10 times, but still not OK. I checked the instructions and I think I made no mistakes building. Has anyone an idea? I thought calibrating would fix this.

[1gor]

Perhaps it is a question of gears / gear rack alligment; remember that gear has 12 tooth and not 16, so you have to be carefull when puting in cross axle

This makes me problems when I use PF Servo...

Edited August 17, 2023 by 1gor

[gyenesvi]

1 hour ago, vliet said:

Yesterday I built my 42160 but the front wheels are slightly turned to the left, after the first calibration it is a bit better but the wheels are still nog straight. I tried calibration about 10 times, but still not OK. I checked the instructions and I think I made no mistakes building. Has anyone an idea? I thought calibrating would fix this.

I also built mine yesterday and noticed something similar, though I wasn't surprised. It is because the steering system's construction, not your fault. The servo does not go directly to the gear rack, but has a 16T gear mesh in between. In such a gear mesh, it is impossible that both axles are at a proper 90 angle. Since the servo axle is at a proper 90 degree angle by default, the axle going to the gear rack will not be, hence the slight offset. I also expected that the calibration might make up for it, but I think the difference is so small that it is difficult to get it completely centered.

What I did actually is I set up BC2 with a gamepad controller. It resulted in the same offset after calibration, but there I can give it a center offset manually. Setting 10 degree offset fixed it quite straight :)

About the build itself. The structure is super solid, I love the use of all the flip-flop beams, they are a real game changer for building form locked structures. The suspension is also really neat structurally and works really well. The rear's travel is more limited and a bit more stiff to bear the weight of the electronics which is a bit more towards the back. But really nice and bouncy. The shaping also has some nice building techniques for angling the panels (and many nice panels). Without stickers the looks is not that special though, but with adding some red parts here and there it could really be a cool looking one, though not true to the original.

Also some things I don't quite like. First, I am not a big fan of the electronics placement, but I get that with these clumsy electronics, it's hard to do it better (though I expected that there would be enough place to put the hub in the back). The hub takes up a lot of real estate in the middle, and also pushes the motors into the cockpit, so the interior is obscured on one hand with the motors and cables, and empty and feels unfinished on the other hand. Also, it's big, and has a bit of empty shell feeling, not just the middle, but the back and the sides as well have some hollow structures covered up in panels.

But altogether it is a really nice set, good amount of great new parts and electronics for the price. The speed is quite okay as well, drives nice, though still only tested indoors as it is raining all the time..

[Sokolov Edward]

I decided to assemble this model from "old" parts - without new wheels, hubs, CV joints and small panels, as well as connectors 2393 and 72008. For the drive I took ordinary L-motors and a 4-channel remote control from China. During assembly, it turned out that the L-motors are shorter than Lego PU by 1 stud, but this did not lead to any problems. But the steering turned out to be quite bad - it was not possible to get a return to the center even once. I decided to put an ordinary servo motor - it easily gets up instead of an L-motor. But with him I got a problem with centering. In the end, I replaced 2 gray gears 94925 with 3 8-tooth 10928 + axle 3L. The result was a normal steering with a stable return to the center. Perhaps this will help you too.

Assembly of the model with new beams turned out to be interesting. I took the wheels and hubs from the Ford F-150. Thick CV joints replaced with old thin ones. Instead of 4x 2393, you can put 4х 65487 at the attachment points of the following parts. 72008 was replaced with an assembly of 2x41677 + 1x3713 + 1x32062. Small panels are replaced with other parts in place, depending on your imagination and taste. I left the differentials new, but with a "red" gear (12/28) - the Chinese L-motor has higher speeds and the machine drives quietly around the room.

Edited August 6, 2023 by Sokolov Edward

[alexGS]

On 8/6/2023 at 11:00 PM, vliet said:

Yesterday I built my 42160 but the front wheels are slightly turned to the left, after the first calibration it is a bit better but the wheels are still nog straight. I tried calibration about 10 times, but still not OK. I checked the instructions and I think I made no mistakes building. Has anyone an idea? I thought calibrating would fix this.

I found the same - calibration does not seem to work. You’d think it would measure the centre position easily, but no - always ends up slightly left. I think it’s more likely a software problem, since the responsiveness of the steering motor to the slide control seems erratic. It doesn’t ‘try’ to move much of the time, so maybe the calibration process is erratic too.

I was really disappointed in the lack of drive power (forward and back) - but fortunately I didn’t buy it for being an RC car; I bought it as a parts collection and I’m not disappointed at all in the assortment of black-coloured parts at the price :)

I paid NZ$259 which is €144, but I’ve just seen it even cheaper at NZ$235 (€130) although that has shipping to pay (I bought the last one in a local store). 

[Maaboo the Witch]

Here's Sariel's off-road test!

 

[gyenesvi]

I also gave it some testing a few days ago. While true that the climbing could be better, I was pleasantly surprised how good speed/torque ratio it has, it could climb moderate rocky slopes, so if you play around with it, it does not get stuck in a slightly bumpy area. I think they brought out what's possible from the existing electronics components, only better motors would lead to better all-over performace.

On the other hand what I observed is that it can get hang on places where one wheel looses traction, as that axle is out due to the diff, and then the other axle is only powered by one motor, that can stall easily, so the vehicle stops. This could be made better with coupled motors, as then the remaining one axle would still be powered by both motors. That is why I am not a big fan of this motor arrangement.

[Ngoc Nguyen]

Wazzup guys, this is a Technic video from Racingbrick!