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4 hours ago, vectormatic said:

@LipkoIt is rather ironic that my 42000, with arguably the most complicated suspension lego has ever produced...

@allanp

The 8458 was the very first set with this type of suspension. And it was pretty heavy for only 4 shock absorbers...

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I am disappointed with the colour choice, not because the colour is bad, but because it is unlikely Lego will ever give us a complete range of pieces with this new colour.

42039 and 42069 had a similar odd colour choice ... And a few years on, the range of parts in those colours has not improved.

Just imagine if the purple wheel arches in 42069 were instead white, red, or black ?

Edited by iLego

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Guys, the suspension is no that bad. The model is an ""offroader"", so a softer suspension enables it to settle nicely on a rough surface.

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I found the suspension on 42099 to be pretty much spot on. It compresses slightly under its own weight but only by a little which I think is exactly where you want it. If it doesn't compress at all it's too hard. If it compresses more than half way it's too soft. It's tricky to get it just right but rather too hard than too soft. No snickering at the back please!

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@romashkaman thanks, that set was square in the middle of my dark ages

On the topic of suspension travel, i agree that having the car sitting with the spring somewhat compressed is the most realistic, no real world car sits at the top of its travel like most technic cars do. However... Lego springs only come in two stiffnesses, and the geometry options for adjustment are pretty limited, so setting up a model to have it sit about halfway through its travel, while maintaining enough travel to be playable, and have a decent ride height so that it looks proper (which for branded cars such as the landy, porsches and bugatti is a must imho), is pretty much undoable with current parts.

So untill lego comes up with a user friendly adjustable suspension setup (which i would love, but i dont see happening, ever), i think the best they can do is having cars sit at the proper ride height at the top of stiff springs

@lipko, ill trust your judgement that it works well, but im just a bit sour from my Chiron sitting just a tad to low once the suspension settles.

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This could all be avoided if LEGO would just reinvest in longer travel springs. One stud is abysmal.

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I wonder if it would be cheaper for Lego to introduce new springs that are assembled by the end user, with the central axle made from a regular axle (of which there are already many lengths to choose from). This way we can add springs and spacers to adjust the length and stiffness.

Edited by allanp

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Just seen some more of the pictures posted here, it’s a shame to have the bright red pieces under the bonnet. Surely theyd look better in grey of black, but I guess it might be an ease of assembly or the part was available in that colour for another model this year.

so on the roof we have a couple of boxes, on the left at the rear we have a fold down ladder. But what is the light grey box on the right side above the rear wheel?

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5 hours ago, Bartybum said:

This could all be avoided if LEGO would just reinvest in longer travel springs. One ïğżïğżstud is abysmal. ïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğż

I wonder if using the motorcycle front shocks would be a viable route, they have been used before in various crawler type cars with stiffer springs, and 8880 uses two per wheel, maybe those would allow for better suspension then the current 6.5 stud ones.

 

 

5 hours ago, allanp said:

I wonder if it would be cheaper for Lego to introduce new springs that are assembled by the end user, with the central axle made from a regular axle (of which there are already many lengths to choose from). This way we can add springs and spacers to adjust the length and stiffness. ïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğż

All i want is lego coilovers :P so i schlammmm my porsche :rofl:

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3 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Coffin

I thought we’re all in agreement the “coffin” is the box on the roof with the orange handles. What I mean is the box on the right side of the car about the rear arch, opposite side to the ladder which is above the left rear wheel arch

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2 hours ago, Seasider said:

I thought we’re all in agreement the “coffin” is the box on the roof with the orange handles. What I mean is the box on the right side of the car about the rear arch, opposite side to the ladder which is above the left rear wheel arch

Could be a can for extra fuel or water maybe? 

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3 hours ago, Seasider said:

I thought we’re all in agreement the “coffin” is the box on the roof with the orange handles. What I mean is the box on the right side of the car about the rear arch, opposite side to the ladder which is above the left rear wheel arch

I think they are plank for travel through sands or muds.

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1 minute ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

I think they are plank for travel through sands or muds.

Those are the plates on top. What about the box on the side above the passenger side (or driver side in the UK) rear wheel arch?

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2 hours ago, Seasider said:

... Lego have done a good job on the front end. The bonnet bulge is a little high but I think they’ve done a good job of capturing the shapes ...

I agree, whether or nor you like the styling of the new Defender, the resemblance of the Technic set is good.

Generally I like the set, but there are some missed opportunities to make it a really great set:

  • The wheels of the Technic version are very out of scale (especially the width) and they lack a realistic thread pattern. They made new rims, but I guess new tires would have been too costly. Since there are no good Lego alternatives, I wonder if there is any RC tire which has a more suitable size and pattern? Anybody familiar with RC vehicles has an idea?
  • I'm curious about the details of the interior. The seats seems detailed enough and I guess a dashboard will be partially brick-build to look as realistic as possible. But on the other hand, it seems that the rear wheel wells are open, so you see the rear wheels inside the cabin, not a good look.
  • Controlling the winch from the inside of the engine bay seems a bit awkward, but maybe the looks of the exterior and dashboard could not be compromised?
  • Not a big fan of the accessories on top and on the sides. They hide the lines of the vehicle too much and are a bit confusing (see all the cofin remarks). But you could skip the building steps for those I guess.
  • I'm toying with the idea of making the 130 version that will be launched after the 90 and 110, but availability of the green parts will be the bottleneck here. Rebuilding in another color is also an option, but then an alternative for the new panels will need to be found.
  • If there ever was a set that was suitable for adjustable ride height is was this one. A system like in the ancient 8297 Off-Roader from 2008 would have bee great representation of the Land Rover Terrain Response.

Summary: apart from the functions, the scale, the color and the details, I like this set. I guess what I'm saying is that maybe I don't really like the set after all.

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Omg, this thing is amazing. This is a must buy for me. I hope that the color is olive green. We had 1 Technic beam in this color and it would be nice tot have more. This sets has lots of potential tot moc. I see lots of different Technic stuff, IT looks like the complete range. The powerup stuff is nothing for me, for that money i can buy 4 rovers. I need this color for my tractor.

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Am I the only one not liking these new types of axle and bush fake motors? Not a trend I am very fond of..

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20 minutes ago, merman said:

Am I the only one not liking these new types of axle and bush fake motors? Not a trend I am very fond of..

Apparently not. I’m a big fan of them because they allow for smaller detailed models.

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5 hours ago, merman said:

Am I the only one not liking these new types of axle and bush fake motors? Not a trend I am very fond of..

You're definitely not the only one.

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5 hours ago, merman said:

Am I the only one not liking these new types of axle and bush fake motors? Not a trend I am very fond of..

Well, I do like the normal Piston Engines more, but they are way too big. Especially too long. Engines like the 2JZ or RB26 are so popular Engine Swap options because they make huge power in a pretty compact size that fits most Engine Bays. But the LEGO version is as long as a V12, so only a few select Cars could host such an engine. I think in this case the small axle Egine is a good choice. But it should be pretty easy to swap this car to a (Turbocharged) Inline 4 yourself, using real Pistons :wink:.

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The biggest model with an inline 6 using traditional piston engine is the 42030 B, and still doesnt have enough space. The driver's seat is squeezed.

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1 hour ago, Gray Gear said:

Well, I do like the normal Piston Engines more, but they ïğżare way too big. Especially too ïğżïğżïğżlong. Engines like the 2JZ or RB26 are so popular ïğżEngine Swap options because they make huge power in a pretty compact size that fits most Engine Bays. But the LEGO version is as long as a V12, so only ïğża few select Cars could host such an engine. I think in ïğżthis case the small ïğżïğżaxle Egine is ïğżïğża ïğżgood choiceïğżïğżïğż. But it ïğżshould be pretty ïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżïğżeasy ïğżto swap tïğżïğżïğżhis ïğżcar to a (Turbocharged) Inline 4 yourself, using real Pistons :wink:.

Would a 2JZ be just as long as a V12 based on the same bore pattern? That is the way it is with I4/V8 engines AFAIK, the main difference in size is that the V6 engines are wider and need more plumbing, and sometimes a the aux belt stuff is more complicated.

Either way, the normal piston engines are heavily scale dependent, i did the math on this for the GT3RS, and going by scale and piston diameter, the porsche has a 1.6L engine :P On a smaller scale model, obviously you end up with a very different result, and for some models the regular piston engines are indeed ridiculously oversized.

Personally im perfectly fine with the normal piston engine size, for cars like 42000, 42039 and larger (or the old Ferrari 599 and Enzo), it feels about right. I know the scale is probably off if you do the math, but it feels correct to have a big girthy engine in racecars, and with the sump/heads/ancilieries missing, the engine bay of a lego car would look ridiculous with just the properly sized shortblock.

As for the small axle based fake engine, i absolutely hate it. On the corvette Zr1 i found that it is extremely sensitive to "tuning" it correctly, push the yellow half bushes just a fraction of a milimeter to far on or off the axle, and it wont run right, which i think is a big problem, especially on smaller models which might be built by younger kids. I also feel like it is entirely the wrong mechanism. Technic shouldnt be just about building something that moves a bit, it should also be about teaching kids (within reason) how certain mechanisms work, the small fake engine in that regard is a pushrod camshaft, not a crank/piston assembly, it belongs inside a built out V8 with some faux head/rocker bits, not in place of an engine. I can understand lego doesnt want to make custom parts to achieve things like proper boxer engines or a single crank W16 for the bugatti, but if they want a small scale alternative for the normale fake engine, they could have at least put some more effort into it then this.

For me, the small fake engine is a deal breaker, i'll only buy the land rover if i can swap in a proper fake engine, same goes for any model containing the camshaft engine, the corvette will probably end up parts-binned (or rebuilt into a b-model with a proper engine swapped in)

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I love the axle piston engine buy it is to high. Length is ok for a 6 inline. I would like it tot be 4 studs high.

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