[GBC] Akiyuki Train System: Type 2 mods and improvements

[doug72]

Images below show how the L motor is installed and the improved trip bar cross rod.

The cross rod now better supported and no longer droops.

If more info required please ask.

Edited February 13, 2019 by Doug72

[Frequenzberater]

Great work @Doug72! Iam going to modify my carts as well. 

[doug72]

37 minutes ago, Frequenzberater said:

Great work @Doug72! Iam going to modify my carts as well. 

Thanks.

I tried once before to fit an L motor but gave up as thought it was impossible.

2nd attempt:

Took a lot of trial & error to finally fit it. Securing the non drive end of the L motor was the difficult part.

The trip bar cross rod mod can also be applied to M motor version by removing two black pins to allow the 10L axle to pass through.

Tested on scissors lift MOC & speed is much better.

Now added to list of MOCs and improvements on Page 1

Edited February 13, 2019 by Doug72

[doug72]

Just tested the L motor train MOC with my Elevator/ Dumper modules and a big improvement in raising / lowering speed for the elevator which now is 8 secs up & 8 secs down.
Rotary dumper is also  much faster.

[Berthil]

Good work! Start buying more batteries :)

[doug72]

6 hours ago, Berthil said:

Good work! Start buying more batteries :)

I don't use single use batteries anymore - too expensive.
I use rechargable batteries in all my Train units plus computer keyboard / mouse etc.
 Lidl have good low price rechargable batteries along with a fast battery charger that can charge 6 at a time.
I will convert another train to an L motor and use them on the elevator / dumper section.
M motor trains used on the remainder less demanding sections when I put a layout together.

Edited February 14, 2019 by Doug72

[doug72]

Small improvement for L motor type train:

See image - a gap made to allow the L motor cable to pass through and lie flat below battery box.
A 3/4 pin is required to locate the battery box as a full pin would crush the cable.

2nd train now converted and tested OK.

Correction: 1/2 pin should be 3/4 pin

Edited February 15, 2019 by Doug72

[doug72]

On 2/13/2019 at 9:42 AM, Doug72 said:

 

Has anyone noticed what’s wrong with this construction ?

[dunes]

yepp.

both 12-tooth gears on same side. which is wrong.

Edited February 15, 2019 by dunes
12-tooth gears

[doug72]

Correct should be as in photo.

Edited February 17, 2019 by Doug72

[rskamen]

On 10/5/2018 at 10:08 AM, Berthil said:

My updated rotator is finished. Very pleased with the result and now in my top 3 of GBC machines :)

At 1 min. you can see my upper exit switch I had to use because of lack of space, works very well and cannot 'hang'.
I also used a set of Technic pulleys to clear the counterweights from the base frame and use full length of wires as I didn't want to cut the LEGO wires.
It runs 24:8 ratio, hence full circle with entry and exit is 27 seconds, 1 second longer than AKiyuki's version :)

Thanks @Doug72 and @MajklSpajkl for the improvements! I now feel very confident to run it for 7 days 7 hours a day in about two weeks at LEGO World Utrecht.

Would be nice if Akiyuki would also implement the improvements and run it at the next Japan Brickfest 2019 but that's probably not going to happen :)  

Berthil, I am going to take the plunge and begin building a few of the modules for the train layout. I am most impressed with your counterweight and pulley system on the elevator. Do you have any additional photo's, drawings, parts lists, or anything that might help me replicate your pulley system? I will start my train system with the 2 trains, Loader, unloader, passing module, reversing module, elevator and rotary dumper. It might be a little aggressive for me, but I am willing to give it my best try. Thank you in advance for all of your help and wisdom. You were extremely helpful a few weeks ago when you gave me the Lego part numbers for the track sections.

[Berthil]

@rskamen next weekend I should have my mobile studio up again for a different project, I'll make some pictures of the pulley system although in the quoted video it is well visible. Or I will make a short building instruction for it.

Edited February 22, 2019 by Berthil

[rskamen]

4 hours ago, Berthil said:

@rskamen next weekend I should have my mobile studio up again for a different project, I'll make some pictures of the pulley system although in the quoted video it is well visible. Or I will make a short building instruction for it.

Thank you for your quick response. Any close up photos, details, or building instructions would be very much appreciated, If you wish to send me anything directly, my email is:  rskamen@comcast.net.  I will eagerly look forward to anything you can provide. With kind regards, Bob

[doug72]

On 2/12/2019 at 10:38 AM, 9v system said:

this would be the modification i did to the type 1 train car, i changed the m motor to an l motor because the m one didnt have enough power to run the crane loader.

Akiyuki train module with crane

Currently exploring ideas for a more compact & simpler version of this using a type 2 train with L motor and remainder built using mainly studless components.

This module appears to suffer from lack of power & friction when using a type 1 train with M motor.

@9v system has found a solution by modifying the type 1 train using an L motor.

I have now found a video by @Blakbird which uses an additional separate  L motor which is powered when the train arrives and hits a separate PF switch.
When the train is released the PF switch stops the L motor.

 

The train & separate L motor appear to be directly connected for traversing the loading transfer system.
Not clear if they are hard coupled or if not how they stay in sync.

The train just seems to be controlling the loading cycle via the reversing module.

This goes against the concept of the train powering the modules as it arrives at each one.

Question: Is this acceptable or is the @9v system solution better.

===================================================

Currently I have built a test rig to try out different chain types as feel the small lego chain could fail under heavy load.
Has anyone had problems using this type of chain ? Large chain links work but are too wide at 5L.

The old style large chain links with 2 studs are stronger but requires using the old type cog gears.

Thoughts and ideas welcome.

Edited February 25, 2019 by Doug72

[alanburchill]

Here is the Beyond the Bricks video of the Train Loader... 

 

[XG BC]

nice to see that beyond the brick has realeased a new gbc vid that is what got me into gbc in the first place. nice that this guy mentioned the eurobricks gbc forum.

XG BC

[doug72]

14 hours ago, alanburchill said:

Here is the Beyond the Bricks video of the Train Loader... 

Thanks @alanburchill for the video, and the mention of who modified the rotary dumper.
A few hiccups with the passing loop module - I too had problems with it failing until improved by using the @Berthil mod.

I have found that the long trip beams on the trains can be a problem due to droop & have now shortened mine to 11L.

I wish there were such shows in the UK somewhere close to where live near Newcastle Upon Tyne !

Edited February 26, 2019 by Doug72

[Great Ball Pit]

That train crash in the Brickvention Video was hilarious :) #realGBC.

Does anyone have any numbers on the L motor powered carts vs the M motor powered carts in regards to battery life?  Anecdotal is fine.

[doug72]

38 minutes ago, Great Ball Pit said:

That train crash in the Brickvention Video was hilarious :) #realGBC.

Does anyone have any numbers on the L motor powered carts vs the M motor powered carts in regards to battery life?  Anecdotal is fine.

Not at the moment but info on this website might help.

http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

Did a quick calculation & at 9v an L motor should last 60% compared to an M motor time.

At 9 volts L motor = 4.41 watts & M motor = 2.79 watts.

Edited February 26, 2019 by Doug72

[rskamen]

Doug72 and Berthil (or anyone else that wants to jump in) - I am just trying to confirm that the Elevator pdf's and the Rotary Dumper pdf's that are available in Bricksafe are the latest versions? I am getting ready to start building 2 trains, a Loader module, passing Module, Elevator and Rotary Dumper. Since I have very limited inventory - basically an unopened Bucket Wheel Excavator (set 42055) - everything that I cannot scavenge will have to be ordered online. I will built the train unit with the M motor to start. Mayne covert to the L motor at a later date. How do you open up the new style PF switch to remove the indents - in case I cannot find the old style? Keep up your great work.

[Berthil]

 

6 hours ago, rskamen said:

How do you open up the new style PF switch to remove the indents?

 

On 2/12/2019 at 11:31 PM, Berthil said:

Yes although you can see them on the outside but you have to take the switch apart to cut them away and while you are at it cut away more until the switch goes with only the resistance of the electronic contacts inside. Put a screwdriver on the DBG notches on the side that face the inside of the train and thumb the screwdriver down on all three notches until it opens. Not a lot of force needed, just a good sudden nudge. On the side that faces the inside of the train so damages are not visible in case you scratch the switch. You can't get the train to work reliably without the mod.

 

Edited March 1, 2019 by Berthil

[doug72]

7 hours ago, rskamen said:

Doug72 and Berthil (or anyone else that wants to jump in) - I am just trying to confirm that the Elevator pdf's and the Rotary Dumper pdf's that are available in Bricksafe are the latest versions? 

The Rotary Dumper instructions follow my original modification but with changes to the supporting structure.
Many have now been built following the instructions made by @dunes  & @Courbet

The Elevator instructions have had various changes made using the worm drive and counterweights system.
The one developed by @Berthil was changed back to gear drive to meet the ball rate he required for Lego event shows.

One thing you will quickly learn is that Train GBC modules consume a lot of parts - 4L racks in particular plus some less common parts.

I am currently attempting to build a shorter less complicated version of the Akiyuki Crane module but progress stalled at present awaiting more chain links.

As I learnt with the elevator modification, the Japanese  tend to like over complicated constructions - simple is often more reliable.

GBC building can be frustrating at times, complex and challenging but ultimately rewarding.

Good luck with your builds and - any problems just ask.

Doug72

Edited March 1, 2019 by Doug72

[rskamen]

@Berthil & @Doug72, Thank you for your information and advice. I will build slowly and very carefully. I do not get frustrated easily. Being retired, every day is Sunday. I have the time to do it right. I will be going over every word in this forum, all of your good advice, and hopefully some more detailed photos or instructions from @Berthil regarding his counterweight and pulley system for the Elevator module. Bricklink will be my resource for the next few weeks of gathering all the parts I do not have (probably 1,000's). Keep your good information coming. Regards from warm and sunny Delray Beach, Florida.

On 6/15/2018 at 1:49 PM, Doug72 said:

its the same as height as Rotary Dumper with the Akiyuki base., but can be built to any height in multiples = to 4L racks.

In making the Elevator taller, as shown by @Berthil, why is it necessary to go in multiples = to 4L racks? Once you go above the original height as shown in the Akiyuki plans, there is no need for the 4L racks as the train does not go any higher. Am I missing something, or are you just saying it is easier to build in 4 stud or 4L rack increments?

[doug72]

20 hours ago, rskamen said:

In making the Elevator taller, as shown by @Berthil, why is it necessary to go in multiples = to 4L racks? Once you go above the original height as shown in the Akiyuki plans, there is no need for the 4L racks as the train does not go any higher. Am I missing something, or are you just saying it is easier to build in 4 stud or 4L rack increments?

When I made the original modified rotary dumper & elavator modules I only had enough 4L gear racks to make a low height version of the elevator so it had to match the rotary dumper.

Later others built theirs to meet the GBC regulations regarding height & ball rate.

When I modified the original Akiyuki elevator module to make it simpler & more reliable by using a worm gear in the drive system I kept it the same height as before.

Its easier to build in 4L steps with the racks up to the level where the train departs to the dumper. The structure above that is only for the counterweight system.

Edited March 2, 2019 by Doug72

[rskamen]

4 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Its easier to build in 4L steps with the racks up to the level where the train departs to the dumper. The structure above that is only for the counterweight system.

Now I fully understand. Thanks for clarifying that. How exactly is the train unit cabled? Where does the M motor cable attach to? What attaches to the PF Switch? What attaches to the battery box? I am going through my BWE (set #42055 and gathering parts). Once I know what I have and what I need, I will begin sourcing and ordering.

My biggest obstacle is the lack of inventory of parts. I just can't go to my parts bin and "replace" or "try" different parts. Even minor modifications require knowing the exact part, part number, and ordering it. I've paid $US3.00 postage to order a missing $US.10 (10 cent) part.