Courbet

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content count

    98
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About Courbet

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Extra

  • Country
    France

Recent Profile Visitors

766 profile views
  1. Hi everyone, For those interested, here are the building instructions and inventory files for Akiyuki's mechanical timer demonstrator: http://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/Akiyuki_Mechanical_Timer.pdf http://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/Akiyuki_Mechanical_Timer.bsx Enjoy! Laurent
  2. If i had Akiyuki's skills, i would try to rework his Container Transporter module to make it work without Mindstorm. With mechanical timers, it might be possible.
  3. Hi everyone, I have built a faithful (bar some colors) replica of Akiyuki's mechanical timer demonstrator. It's very fun to watch but a bit of a pain to hear - the clutch squeaks on every end course. Since it's only a demonstrator, quite crude by Akiyuki's own standard I don't think it deserves full building instructions. But it's not a lot of work, I might end up doing it anyway... What do you think, is it worth it? Laurent
  4. Try using 12 non-friction pins to fix the vertical axles on one side of the stepper. Look at Strain Wave Gearing building instructions, the stepper is the same.
  5. I was never gonna built it anyway, as I don't own an EV3 neither the necessary pneumatic equipment. You should still post detailed photos of your work for those (like maybe @Hocki) who might be tempted to complete it.
  6. You're right I checked your Flickr gallery :) Your pictures are very informative, you should edit your post to add the link (and make more photos!) About the necessary offset between turntables, did you try a studless frame using part 64179 (which you must have in large quantities now!) with only a 1/2 offset between the turntables?
  7. Neat as always, Berthil, but not cheap to replicate! The way the turntables are fixed to the frame is very original.
  8. Although Akiyuki used two extra-hard and ultra-expensive shocks, one hard and one extra-hard were all I had at hand when I built my replica. It's obviously better to use two of the same kind but not that crucial. The unloader will also work with 2 soft ones (black or dark grey, much cheaper than yellow ones) - it still works without any shock at all actually! Using shorter shocks might be possible although I don't see a way to do this easily.
  9. @RohanBeckett, thanks for your feedback on the Steering Cup module. I have made the changes you suggest (the first option) on one arm of my module and have tested it in a small loop of two modules with 60 balls to make sure there were around 30 balls to scoop at all time. It did not jammed a lot but when it happened it was always from the unmodified arm so it is clear than your modification is a big improvement and I will modify the building instructions accordingly. https://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/GBC_Steering_Cup_par_Superfin619.pdf
  10. Nothing at the moment. Regarding Superfin, I thought it was your turn to present us how to build the Step Tower module. Maybe I missed it? By the way I second Boulderer's question, what cup part did you use in your Cup to Cup module?
  11. As I understand it, the gap is there to stop the balls drop a little while before the switch is triggered, to avoid any risk of a ball falling outside of the wagon. It works because the conveyor will always advance of exactly 24 links each cycle. It replaces the more complicated clutch system on the loader of his first GBC train, where trigger and conveyor belt were not synchronized. I can send it to you if you PM me.
  12. @Berthil, are you sure your 48 links conveyor belt follows the right pattern for the 20x 7L liftarms? It should be like that: |-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-----|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-----
  13. Thanks for the feedback Berthil, your mod on the train seems quite interesting, I will try it on mine. The lack of guidance for the rear part of the wagon switch bothered me a bit, especially since I could tell that Akiyuki did things differently to me(he put a blue pin on the 11th hole of the 15L liftarm, I could not figure out what it's for) but my trains did not have trouble switching rotation so I left it like this. Looking at your video the entry of your trains on the unloader platform is also much smoother than mine (The 1x2 plate trick?). On the other hand, you have not tuned the loader to the loader trigger (gap area of the conveyor belt at the top when the switch is triggered). Are there no balls falling outside the wagon?
  14. Hi everyone, In the following links you will find complete building instructions and inventory for Akiyuki's latest GBC masterpiece: Cup to Cup type 2 http://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/Akiyuki_Cup_To_Cup_GBC_Type2.pdf http://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/Cup_To_Cup_GBC_Type2.bsx As David noticed, Akiyuki provided a lot of pictures with great definition from almost every angle of his new module, so it really was not a big challenge to replicate it this time. This module borrows a lot from old modules of him, Cup to Cup obviously but also Cycloidal Drive for the input and the Snake Slide of Fork to Fork. The structure of the tower reminds me also of the Bucket Wheel Tower module. On the other hand, the kinematic of this module is brand new and it's a real marvel, Akiyuki is still the master at this game. For the instructions, I saved some time by reusing some submodels I made for the Strain Wave Gearing module which also share input and output with this new one. Although Akiyuki does not hide anything from view in his video or pictures, building the module properly is not the easiest. All the trouble lies with the tuning of all those gears in the tower. I have tried to represent it the best I could in the instructions but I have not tried to build the module following those instructions, so I hope you won't have too much trouble making your module work as it should. I'd appreciate your feedback on the matter. The Indexer should also be tuned to the Cups movement, it's not shown in the instructions but it's actually very easy to do after all the other tuning is done. Also, you should know that my replica does not behave that well at full speed: there are some ball drops in the last cup relay which is less secure than the others. A notch below full speed on the 9V regulator the reliability is nearly perfect and the rate is actually 1 ball per second. I believe Akiyuki shot his video at that speed. Two notches below full speed and this module is 100% reliable. Laurent
  15. Maybe not next week but very soon... Laurent