[REVIEW] 42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS

[JunkstyleGio]

[ddeklerk]

[snip]

Step 5 is replacing the pin connector with two bushes. Step 269 is correcting the gear sequence. Step 74 is implementing the 90 degree limiter. And step 151 is the change-over-catches fix. But what is the modification in step 275?

[Catalinanmb]

4th to 1st gear stopper.

[JunkstyleGio]

That were all my built in MODs..

Remember to replace the blue pin-connector in step 66 by a yellow (non-friction) one.

With all the mods there is no direct need to replace the white slip-gear.

Remember that the chassis might give a little "rattle and hum"but that will be corrected by the weight of the rest of the model!

[Didumos69]

That were all my built in MODs..

Remember to replace the blue pin-connector in step 66 by a yellow (non-friction) one.

With all the mods there is no direct need to replace the white slip-gear.

Remember that the chassis might give a little "rattle and hum"but that will be corrected by the weight of the rest of the model!

I would be a bit careful on drawing conclusions like 'no direct need'. I think it would be a good idea to at least try without the white clutch gear first.

I would really encourage anyone building this set to replace the white clutch gear with an inline friction clutch, use the gears that come free to gear up the engine and use the 16T gears that come off the back of the engine to replace the friction-generating red clutch gears in the gearbox, while giving them there own axle. This reduces friction substantially and is way more fun. See also the 'Minimal version' sections in the OP of my ultimately playable thread.

Edited July 5, 2016 by Didumos69

[M4X1994]

A Sunday afternoon + evening and two evenings after work... Finished at last!

I knew it was going to be big, but I had no clue the Porsche would be this large! Here is a photo (smartphone + evening + subpar lightning) of the finished car, next to Nathanaël Kuiper's Predator. With both of these models next to each other it really makes the Predator, which I thought was huge before I got this Porsche, look small!

Only 'mod' I ended up doing was switching the gears for the proper shifting sequence.

Not sure if this was mentioned before. I am no car expert but I did notice that the center sticker on the dashboard lists the modes going from P to R to N to D, from top to bottom, which is just like the real GT3 RS. So they did do that correctly, but still managed to switch around the sequence (D N R, instead of R N D) on the actual lever between the seats! Just thought this was interesting.

[Banone]

Hello everyone,

I bought this set and it is my first lego technic set ever. I'm having an issue with the "drive" mechanic. I wasn't certain where to post this so I hope I'm not completly wrong here.

So to the problem at state: When I rotate the wheels the big grey gear connecting the motor block and the shifting mechanic does not turn so the cylinders do not move (I removed that part after I noticed it wasnt working) and all other

parts won't either. I uploaded a video here: https://vid.me/Y1iO

Can someone give me a hint as to where I made a mistake here?

Thanks in advance!

[ddeklerk]

You did nothing wrong Banone, that is expected behavior with the differential. The resistance the gearbox exerts on the differential is greater than that of the other wheel axle. Therefore the differential will not move. Try it again, but while holding the other wheel axle.

[Didumos69]

Hello everyone,

I bought this set and it is my first lego technic set ever. I'm having an issue with the "drive" mechanic. I wasn't certain where to post this so I hope I'm not completly wrong here.

So to the problem at state: When I rotate the wheels the big grey gear connecting the motor block and the shifting mechanic does not turn so the cylinders do not move (I removed that part after I noticed it wasnt working) and all other

parts won't either. I uploaded a video here: https://vid.me/Y1iO

Can someone give me a hint as to where I made a mistake here?

Thanks in advance!

The first thing that comes to mind when I look at your video: you should test by rotating both wheels in the same direction, or at least block one wheel while rotating the other.

Edited July 10, 2016 by Didumos69

[Banone]

Okay first off thank you very much for the very helpful answer, my understanding was completly wrong about the behaviour thank you very much. One more question though. When I rotate the wheel with one blocked the grey shifting part kind of "jumps" at a

certain point does that mean something is just blocking it?

I made another video: https://vid.me/xaTw

[ddeklerk]

That piece should not be engaged from the looks of it. I can see that the one on the other side is engaged, and only one should ever be engaged at any time. It is skipping because of resistance. Make sure the orange 2l liftarms with the links that go to the red changeover catches are at a 90 degree angle.

Edited July 10, 2016 by ddeklerk

[Banone]

Sorry for asking probably simple questions but it seems like there is an issue with my shifting mechanism. For explanation:

Origin position --> Working no jumping --> Shift one time --> Still working only one engaged --> Shift second time --> Both are engaged and one jumps.

I made another video: https://vid.me/OYLl

Is that something I can somehow fix without removing too many parts?

[Didumos69]

Sorry for asking probably simple questions but it seems like there is an issue with my shifting mechanism. For explanation:

Origin position --> Working no jumping --> Shift one time --> Still working only one engaged --> Shift second time --> Both are engaged and one jumps.

I made another video: https://vid.me/OYLl

Is that something I can somehow fix without removing too many parts?

There are some known issues with the shifting mechanism causing the orange paddies to be off there supposed 90 degree positions, which in turn causes gears to be double engaged. It will be hard to fix this without moving many parts.

I summarized most issues and solutions here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=136251&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

Edited July 10, 2016 by Didumos69

[ddeklerk]

It could be that you are not pulling the paddles far enough. When I first built my Porsche, the only thing that I modified was the step 5 friction fix, and the shifting worked as intended as long as I pulled the paddles all the way.

[Meatman]

After finally completing my model and adding some of the necessary mods, I must say that this isn't as impressive as I thought that it would be.It's very large which is impressive, but mechanically is is kind of weak. The steering is very hard to work and the wheel is hard to get at and out of proportion. This model should have 100% used some type of hidden HOG steering. Too much force is needed to pull the paddles back and get the proper position and I hate that I am grabbing the rubber bands. It has some nice styling points, but then again, it has some really ugly gaps and places where nothing flows. Like the curved panels in the rear quarters over the new style wheel arches overlapping them and the big gaps behind them where the taillights are at. I think if Lego spent more time polishing this model it could have been one of the best ever.

And did they use the tan 3L frictionless pin in the rear curved panels because a blue one would stick out too much? Also that 3L orange liftarm in the rear decklid just kind of hanging there using friction to keep it in place is cheesy.

Edited July 10, 2016 by Meatman

[ddeklerk]

And did they use the tan 3L frictionless pin in the rear curved panels because a blue one would stick out too much?

In the interview I think they mentioned that that pin was chosen for building reasons. I believe you attach the panel to that frictionless pin first, and than swing it back and attach it on the other pin. Looking at the instructions again, and it does not explicitly tell you to do it, but I guess they wanted you to do it that way. The panel does not slide over the wheel arch completely, so you need to attach one of the two pin holes before the other. Still a pretty lame reason to use a frictionless pin though.

Edited July 10, 2016 by ddeklerk

[Meatman]

In the interview I think they mentioned that that pin was chosen for building reasons. I believe you attach the panel to that frictionless pin first, and than swing it back and attach it on the other pin.

I must have missed that part in the video. So this way there was more play in the movement I suppose.

It could be that you are not pulling the paddles far enough. When I first built my Porsche, the only thing that I modified was the step 5 friction fix, and the shifting worked as intended as long as I pulled the paddles all the way.

What I am noticing is that parts seem to be really bending more than I thought they would have to in order to complete the shifting process. Maybe I am wrong, but this seems like something that if an afol would do, people would call them out for stressing parts.

[Didumos69]

After finally completing my model and adding some of the necessary mods, I must say that this isn't as impressive as I thought that it would be.It's very large which is impressive, but mechanically is is kind of weak. The steering is very hard to work and the wheel is hard to get at and out of proportion. This model should have 100% used some type of hidden HOG steering. Too much force is needed to pull the paddles back and get the proper position and I hate that I am grabbing the rubber bands. It has some nice styling points, but then again, it has some really ugly gaps and places where nothing flows. Like the curved panels in the rear quarters over the new style wheel arches overlapping them and the big gaps behind them where the taillights are at. I think if Lego spent more time polishing this model it could have been one of the best ever.

And did they use the tan 3L frictionless pin in the rear curved panels because a blue one would stick out too much? Also that 3L orange liftarm in the rear decklid just kind of hanging there using friction to keep it in place is cheesy.

Did you apply all of these MODs? Getting rid of the friction-generating gear and replacing it with a simple 90 degree limiter helps smoothening the shifting mechanism. Part of these MODs is dropping the upper two silicon bands which makes the operation of the paddles more user friendly.

Edited July 10, 2016 by Didumos69

[nerdsforprez]

After finally completing my model and adding some of the necessary mods, I must say that this isn't as impressive as I thought that it would be.It's very large which is impressive, but mechanically is is kind of weak. The steering is very hard to work and the wheel is hard to get at and out of proportion. This model should have 100% used some type of hidden HOG steering. Too much force is needed to pull the paddles back and get the proper position and I hate that I am grabbing the rubber bands. It has some nice styling points, but then again, it has some really ugly gaps and places where nothing flows. Like the curved panels in the rear quarters over the new style wheel arches overlapping them and the big gaps behind them where the taillights are at. I think if Lego spent more time polishing this model it could have been one of the best ever.

And did they use the tan 3L frictionless pin in the rear curved panels because a blue one would stick out too much? Also that 3L orange liftarm in the rear decklid just kind of hanging there using friction to keep it in place is cheesy.

. Yea.... Many of the shortcomings of the set you discuss have already been improved upon. Kinda a moot point to complain about them now. Check out the link pointed out by @didumos69 for details.

[Lipko]

What I am noticing is that parts seem to be really bending more than I thought they would have to in order to complete the shifting process. Maybe I am wrong, but this seems like something that if an afol would do, people would call them out for stressing parts.

No, they wouldn't. People are much more forgiving with MOCs than with the Porsche. For example no HOG and unreliable gearboxes is okay if the model is big and looks good enough.

[brunojj1]

No, they wouldn't. People are much more forgiving with MOCs than with the Porsche. For example no HOG and unreliable gearboxes is okay if the model is big and looks good enough.

That´s true, even if I still agree a lot with Meatman´s disappointments. If a MOC has a striking appearance - mostly due to a somewhat neat bodywork with right proportions – “into HOF immediately”! Who cares at this point what is inside the beautiful package… The Porsche additionally does need tons of painted cardboard around it highlighting the orange body even more for this reason.

But I think most of us here agree that the interesting playful part of Technic building (and designing) in first place has less to do with a shiny surface Barbie dreamworld out of plastic. The functions driven by hardcore working mechanisms and playability of the finished make it real Lego Technic - that´s fun!

I can “forgive” many shortcomings, nothing is perfect – if the model fits the big picture. But I still can´t get the point that “the ultimate building experience” is supposed to be improving the Porsche by yourself, starting with the wrong gear shifting order deliberately placed into the building instructions(?) The Claas Xerion is the ultimate Technic model, IMHO. The Porsche is not – put it on the shelf forever and clean the dust from time to time. Or do what you want It´s “on top of everything! What do you guys want more?" (quoting designer´s interview) ?

Edited July 11, 2016 by brunojj1

[Lipko]

I also agree with that in general, I was only reflecting to that specific comment. Playibility, good construction are not of interest, only in case of the evil TLG with their Porsche.

Okay, I also think that official designers should have been better but still I see double standard here.

[brunojj1]

I also agree with that in general, I was only reflecting to that specific comment. Playibility, good construction are not of interest, only in case of the evil TLG with their Porsche.

Okay, I also think that official designers should have been better but still I see double standard here.

Of course double standard. I would give you my vote if to be chosen as a good TLG designer - only such reliable and fool proof Technic toys should be the high professional standard to look up to - best example is your "simple supercar" and especially the new telehandler which is really great!

[Lipko]

You are too kind. My models are too simple for their size, it's not too hard to make reliable models this way. And they are not fool proof, even if that's always my intention. Principles and intentions alone don't make a good designer, and I still haven't proven my skills, even if I have the feeling in the over-emotional state of plublishing models.

[irekk]

Great review JIm. Sariel's review was bit more honest, because this implementation of transmission is pile of ʇᴉɥs. Is awesome display model, but playing without steering other than poorly reachable steering wheel, even less comfortable gearshift paddles makes it bit awful to play with. However it looks sooooo lovely i don't regret spending money on this set. I totally understand the pricing. There's no other set with working transmission like this one. Not many of them have working steering wheel, but definitely there's only just few who look that charming. For people who loves to mix their sets, it's a big NO NO set.