brunojj1

Eurobricks Knights
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About brunojj1

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  1. It´s not needed in the orange version of course. I have no idea how it happened, probably the color had changed at some time due to an error in the software / coding, otherwise somebody would have registered it half a year ago... Thanks for your attention!
  2. Hi @johpr! Welcome to EB. I´m ashamed about this error - how could I miss that?... I´ve added the orange flex hoses to the inventory of course. Thanks for your attention and enjoy your build!
  3. Headlights: the new design with decent lines is not bad, but IMO there should be some kind of "light" elements however. The rake of the car has gone, it´s a pity .. Why that? I know it would require a lot of redesign, but the rear wheel arch would look better if lowered by 1 stud in relation to the rest, similar to the 42096 Porsche. The lines on the bottom could be glossed over by dark azur flex axles, I´m thinking of your 458 here . In that case perhaps the whole rear axle should move 1 stud lower as well, but that again would cause heavy complications for a chassis redesign... The rear looks a lot better now, coming closer to the role model. A diffuser would be nice of course. Another small suggestion: the LBG ++ liftarms on the roof in black color and the yellow bushes could be replaced by the same parts as well.
  4. brunojj1

    [MOC] “Challenger” The Supercar

    Very nice job, I love this kind of rational placement of functions / motors and compact design of the chassis ! One more suggestion regarding the color combo: the decent blue line could be continued in front and rear sections and perhaps add to the overall harmony.
  5. Suggestions: Try to put everything as low as you can. It will result in a supercar sitting lower and looking more sporty and realistic. I can´t spot any 7x5 frames. Don´t be afraid to get some and use them wherever you can in the chassis. That will help to achieve more rigidity and provide plenty of attachment points for everything. Especially the central column is too thick and way too high IMO. You may want to put seats somewhere at some time. A thick wall between driver and passenger is ugly and unrealistic. I´m always trying not to occupy the center with functions, other than routing axles and wires through a tunnel 5 studs wide only. You can add stability by reinforcing the sides of the car and/or make rigid roof / A-pillar connections. You can put some of the motors / Sbricks / batteries or the gearbox into the space between seats and rear wheels, save space elsewhere. Perhaps the servo could be put in front of the front axle, so you would save space in that area, e.g. to root a link to the steering wheel. Some big progress regarding sequentially shifted gearboxes has been made in the past few years by the community. I would highly recommend @Didumos69 work on this, particularly his latest development of a gearbox and servo-shifted mechanism. A motorized rear wing would be a very nice add-on, please do it! The car´s width is perfect at 25 studs, not possible to go narrower without sacrificing the suspension and no need to go wider at the standard scale (approx. 1:10) in the given setup.
  6. @M_longer Wonderful creation, I love it a lot ! Reminds me of you ingenious crane, a C-model of the Arocs. So posting this just as a MOD of the Mack is at least an understatement if not a misunderstanding IMHO !
  7. brunojj1

    Bodywork General Discussion

    Here some practical guidelines & priorities I´m following when it comes to bodywork: Design your chassis first and keep it as compact and low as you can within the calculated dimensions of the finished model. It´s easier to attach bodywork to a rolling chassis, than the other way around. The chassis always can be reworked to fit in some specific areas, but the main functions already should be there. You need some extra space behind the outer shell of the bodywork for the attachment points, especially if you have to work with difficult „crazy angles“. Choose a color with a wide range of parts – particularly panels and (angled) connectors. Use Technic panels wherever you can and avoid beam-stacking. Use the panels´ individual shapes where they fit (the real counterpart) and find the attachment points – ideally 2 of them per panel. Try to cover the bigger areas first with bigger panels and design everything else around them. Curves are crucial for the looks, especially the outer shapes and wheel arches – flex axles are very usefull to replicate them and often they are the only option available. The curved 13x3 panels are helpful too, but you need to work a lot to find the attachment points. It´s tricky to fill gaps around panels – usually you need to make compromises here. Try to keep the scale as far as possible and minimize deviations to 1 stud if possible. If the MOC is supposed to be a replica of something – use blueprints scaled down to the purpose. Try-and-error is part of the game, there is always a better solution if you are not satisfied.
  8. I´m really impressed . Big applause for this fantastic achievement which I consider as a historical milestone you´ve set there !
  9. So with the new modifications it all goes into the right direction - most I like the idea with the rake, although it´s a bit too much as it is now. The lowering of the roof was really neccessary . IMO the widening of the rear axle is a crucial change too and worth to mention - how easy was it to do? I´m interested in the doors hinges too.
  10. brunojj1

    [MOC]Lego Suzuki Jimny Sierra

    Congratulations, fantastic job you´ve done there ! Did you ever consider to make a Lada Niva on these monster wheels?
  11. The transparent parts stay the same as in the full version. The coloured parts have to be added. LDD file here. The transparent parts stay the same as in the full version. The coloured parts have to be added. LDD file here.
  12. Happy New Year all together! White Christmas didn´t happen last year as anticipated, but what can we do, there are things in life worse than this. Here we go with the major update – the final release of the RC instructions. Thorsten did a tremendous job on this, but it took some time. The bodywork color shown is WHITE and it looks as good as orange IMO, a matter of taste of couse. So now it can be build in the both mentionned colors or in black from original Lego parts only. Motorization options: as indicated in the original video – 3 alternative options can be built. Unfortunately it wasn´t possible to show all of them in the instructions, but only the full version. The downgrade from the full version is not too complicated and doesn´t require too many additional parts. Considering the overall complexity of the build, you can do the adaptations yourself - if you are able to take on the entire challenge at all! full version (2 x XL + 2 x L motors). Although you can´t expect performance anywhere near usual RC cars, the max motorization works fine and the motors combination engages the differential from both sides with rationalized gear reductions – 3:1 at the XL motors and 5:3 at the L motors, reducton at the differential not counted. Sounds ridiculous, but I´m having fun with the acceleration / braking, displaying & driving it on my 1.5m long table in the living room from time to time. 2 x XL motors: recommended gear reduction 5:3, differential not counted. To fill the gaps where the L motors are missing, supposedly 1x additional 7x5 frame + few other parts are needed to make the bottom stable. A tutorial update with LDD file will be posted within the next few days. 2 x L motors: recommended gear reduction 1:1, differential not counted. To fill the gaps where the XL motors are missing, supposedly 2x additional 7x5 frames + few other parts are needed to make the sides more stable. A tutorial update with LDD file will be posted within the next few days. 2 x Sbricks are required in the model – all 8 channels being used. 1 XL + 1L are sharing one channel on each Sbrick. An individual profile can be made yourself by using this helpfull designer tool. Exhaust: the sufficiently discussed issue with the #6797 part can´t be solved other than by replacement. I´ve asked seven studds if he could make a 3D – printed substitute for this part, but it seems he couldn´t find the time. However, the part remains the same in the instructions. I´ve made 3 brick-built variations of which one can be chosen / modified or a different one can be self-made if the proposed are not apreciated. Just my personal POV - the abcense of one single piece never stops me building anything I want, an inevitable part of the game.
  13. Brilliant work again, performed in a very recognizeable style ! Although not being member of Fakeboost, I got the news immediately from a close friend who ordered his exclusive copy already. IMO the posting here on the biggest Technic forum is mandatory. Btw. I´ve heard some builders being accused of posting from 2 accounts, playing ping-pong with themselves and "leading" the discussion into the right direction ... I´m skipping all the 2019 1H sets and presented myself a sealed #42043 Arocs set before it´s becoming too rare and unreasonably expensive. All I can say it was definitely worth it - the best and most complex Technis set I´ve ever experienced .
  14. Thank you for sharing too! I love to read feedbacks especially of this sort. Indeed the model was designed as a platform for further developments and modifications. You can simply leave out any function, use the chassis as basis for any other RWD supercar in 1/8 scale and adapt it to your needs. I´m interested to learn more about your version, e.g. how you attached the rear cover. And btw - very nice job on the the exhaust pipes . If you´d like to share pictures here on EB, it´s recommended to upload them somewhere else (bricksafe, flickr, ...) and post direct .jpg links here (max. width 1K). I´d be very interested in your result with the rear lights and then perhaps consider it for myself some day. I wish everybody a wonderfull Merry Christmas too, all Lego Technic fans in China included !
  15. Attika´s 8880 tribute model really does justice to the original. Plus it has gullwing doors, central differential lock and most of all I love the independently adjustable suspension !