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16 hours ago, 9v system said:

WOW that new module from akiyuki is amazing. @Courbet say you have the instructions done by next week?

 

Maybe not next week but very soon...

Laurent

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Not often do I write to this topic, but I have to praise all the contributors. I just completed the version 2 of the Zigzag stairs. A robust GBC module that I completed in two days and a further 2 days of testing with no spills. I guess I have spent weeks on the version 1 of Zigzag stairs to no joy. I admit my eyesight and lack of muscular control may have contributed but I am quite happy with this module. Thanks!

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Posted (edited)

Wow Yoann & Courbet - that's gotta be a record, well done 👍😀 ⚽️ 🏀

Edited by OneMoreRobot

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Incredibly fast. Of record.
A question. What is the piece that raises the balls. In the video of Akiyuki are transparent, in yours they look orange and in Yoann's half and half?

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2 hours ago, FernandoQ said:

Incredibly fast. Of record.
A question. What is the piece that raises the balls. In the video of Akiyuki are transparent, in yours they look orange and in Yoann's half and half?

I have to use the pieces ref 20482 (as akiyuki) I have 2 that are of color pearl gold because I had only 2 trans clear under the hand.

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Hi everyone,

In the following links you will find complete building instructions and inventory for Akiyuki's latest GBC masterpiece: Cup to Cup type 2

http://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/Akiyuki_Cup_To_Cup_GBC_Type2.pdf

http://bricksafe.com/files/Courbet/akiyuki-project/Cup_To_Cup_GBC_Type2.bsx

As David noticed, Akiyuki provided a lot of pictures with great definition from almost every angle of his new module, so it really was not a big challenge to replicate it this time. This module borrows a lot from old modules of him, Cup to Cup obviously but also Cycloidal Drive for the input and the Snake Slide of Fork to Fork. The structure of the tower reminds me also of the Bucket Wheel Tower module. On the other hand, the kinematic of this module is brand new and it's a real marvel, Akiyuki is still the master at this game. For the instructions, I saved some time by reusing some submodels I made for the Strain Wave Gearing module which also share input and output with this new one.

Although Akiyuki does not hide anything from view in his video or pictures, building the module properly is not the easiest. All the trouble lies with the tuning of all those gears in the tower. I have tried to represent it the best I could in the instructions but I have not tried to build the module following those instructions, so I hope you won't have too much trouble making your module work as it should. I'd appreciate your feedback on the matter. The Indexer should also be tuned to the Cups movement, it's not shown in the instructions but it's actually very easy to do after all the other tuning is done.

Also, you should know that my replica does not behave that well at full speed: there are some ball drops in the last cup relay which is less secure than the others. A notch below full speed on the 9V regulator the reliability is nearly perfect and the rate is actually 1 ball per second. I believe Akiyuki shot his video at that speed. Two notches below full speed and this module is 100% reliable.

Cup_To_Cup_GBC_Type2.JPG

Laurent

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Thanks Courbet, nice work on the instructions, looking forward to building this great module.

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Can we please ban Akiyuki from using the reflector cups.... soon, only millionaires will be able to build these modules!!! :laugh:

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11 minutes ago, RohanBeckett said:

Can we please ban Akiyuki from using the reflector cups.... soon, only millionaires will be able to build these modules!!! :laugh:

Unfortunately, that is the saddest part of this story...therefore no cup-to-cup v2 for me. Thanks for the instructions anyway - this module is a true marvel indeed.

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I wonder if this part could be substituted (bricklink 2850)?Part No: 2850  Name: Technic Engine Cylinder I've seen this used to carry balls in other GBCs. They turn them upside down & the balls sit on them very nicely.

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My version of Cup to Cup type2 of Akiyuki, made from the photos and video of its web.
For the setting I think the best are the photos of the structure for the front and back. Put the axles, gears and cups in the same position and luck.
Now with the instructions of Courbet the realization is easier, but for the final adjustment what commented in the previous line goes very well.

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On 20/8/2017 at 2:49 PM, RohanBeckett said:

Can we please ban Akiyuki from using the reflector cups.... soon, only millionaires will be able to build these modules!!! :laugh:

Regarding the price of the cup, I was lucky and bought 14, almost two years ago, to make the Cup to Cup type1, for less than one euro each.

It is clear that I am not a millionaire, but today they are very expensive like the balls.

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Posted (edited)

Thank you Laurent and Yoann, I've also build the train version 2

I've made a few improvements because I could not get the switch to work and wagons got stuck, I list them here:

I've made a better guidance of the rear part of the wagon switch, it was hanging loose and dissipating energy instead of directing it to the PF switch. The change is in the picture below, a 7 axle with 2 pieces 1x2 thin liftarms and behind that a construction to keep it in place. I also changed the battery box connection, much easier to remove to change batteries now.

36387131820_36d8be0864_b.jpg

After the above change still 1 PF switch refused to work and the other occasionally did not work. I tried all the PF switches I had in house. I have opened the switches and filed away the little points that give the resistance when switching. The only resistance the switch now has is the inner sliding contact. After this change the PF switches work flawlessly in the wagons together with the above improvement.

I also added a 1 x 2 plate to the entrance of the loader and unloader. The wagons do not get stuck on entering anymore and entering is much smoother now.

36645107111_c1963666e9_b.jpg

The whole track is also 1 brick high except the rail switch, these are 1 plate lower so front wheels of the wagons have better traction when leaving the rail switch.

I may take it with me to Lego World but then without the middle train switches, they do not work flawlessly. The loader and unloader with one wagon and not too long track has capacity enough to move the balls. 

Edited by Berthil
typos

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9 hours ago, Berthil said:

Thank you Laurent and Yoann, I've also build the train version 2

I've made a few improvements because I could not get the switch to work and wagons got stuck, I list them here:

I've made a better guidance of the rear part of the wagon switch, it was hanging loose and dissipating energy instead of directing it to the PF switch. The change is in the picture below, a 7 axle with 2 pieces 1x2 thin liftarms and behind that a construction to keep it in place. I also changed the battery box connection, much easier to remove to change batteries now.

After the above change still 1 PF switch refused to work and the other occasionally did not work. I tried all the PF switches I had in house. I have opened the switches and filed away the little points that give the resistance when switching. The only resistance the switch now has is the inner sliding contact. After this change the PF switches work flawlessly in the wagons together with the above improvement.

I also added a 1 x 2 plate to the entrance of the loader and unloader. The wagons do not get stuck on entering anymore and entering is much smoother now.

The whole track is also 1 brick high except the rail switch, these are 1 plate lower so front wheels of the wagons have better traction when leaving the rail switch.

I may take it with me to Lego World but then without the middle train switches, they do not work flawlessly. The loader and unloader with one wagon and not too long track has capacity enough to move the balls. 

 

Thanks for the feedback Berthil, your mod on the train seems quite interesting, I will try it on mine.


The lack of guidance for the rear part of the wagon switch bothered me a bit, especially since I could tell that Akiyuki did things differently to me(he put a blue pin on the 11th hole of the 15L liftarm, I could not figure out what it's for) but my trains did not have trouble switching rotation so I left it like this.

 

Looking at your video the entry of your trains on the unloader platform is also much smoother than mine (The 1x2 plate trick?). On the other hand, you have not tuned the loader to the loader trigger (gap area of the conveyor belt at the top when the switch is triggered). Are there no balls falling outside the wagon?
 

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@Courbet the 1x2 plate trick did the smooth loading.

I have new PF switches, they probably need more force to switch so I had to do something.

I did a dry run and the load trigger gap seemed 1,5 times faster than loading the balls in the wagon. I will look at it a again to synchronize but no balls fall outside the wagon when loading.

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2 hours ago, Berthil said:

I did a dry run and the load trigger gap seemed 1,5 times faster than loading the balls in the wagon. I will look at it a again to synchronize but no balls fall outside the wagon when loading.

@Berthil, are you sure your 48 links conveyor belt follows the right pattern for the 20x 7L liftarms?

It should be like that: |-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-----|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-----
 

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The link to download cup-to-cup in PDF, seems not working. Made this night an update in Windows10, is there another source to find the PDF, 

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18 minutes ago, Courbet said:

@Berthil, are you sure your 48 links conveyor belt follows the right pattern for the 20x 7L liftarms?
 

Yes I did but probably did not look well during the dry run, I see now in my own movie the gaps sync with loading, just now need to sync it with the wagon. Although I'm not sure what the gap does, the belt has capacity enough to fill te wagon till the top.

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2 hours ago, Berthil said:

Yes I did but probably did not look well during the dry run, I see now in my own movie the gaps sync with loading, just now need to sync it with the wagon. Although I'm not sure what the gap does, the belt has capacity enough to fill te wagon till the top.

As I understand it, the gap is there to stop the balls drop a little while before the switch is triggered, to avoid any risk of a ball falling outside of the wagon. It works because the conveyor will always advance of exactly 24 links each cycle. It replaces the more complicated clutch system on the loader of his first GBC train, where trigger and conveyor belt were not synchronized.

2 hours ago, Excal1bur said:

The link to download cup-to-cup in PDF, seems not working. Made this night an update in Windows10, is there another source to find the PDF, 

I can send it to you if you PM me.

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On 8/20/2017 at 2:55 AM, Courbet said:

In the following links you will find complete building instructions and inventory for Akiyuki's latest GBC masterpiece: Cup to Cup type 2

Can you send me the LDraw files for this one and the new train module so I can make renders of them for the first post?

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