RohanBeckett

Eurobricks Knights
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    755
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About RohanBeckett

  • Birthday 12/15/1975

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Technic

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Interests
    Technic, Space...

Extra

  • Country
    Australia
  • Special Tags 1
    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technicgear2.png

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1510 profile views
  1. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    really like the last video... sometimes it's nice to just concentrate on an individual module, to see how it flows... there's a few interesting ideas in there that I'd like to try out one day! :)
  2. Berthil covered the most important rules.. But here are some other useful guidelines: Strive for reliability, when building to exhibit with others. Make sure you've run your module for a few hours non-stop, in a small loop, to REALLY find out how it jams, or spills balls If you can't solve a few ball spills.. at least design your module to contain them to a small area for collection. Make sure mechanism are well built, and well braced... don't have an essential part hanging by 1 or two studs, if it keeps getting knocked off Try to make the motor quick-changable - ie: it clips easily to the module - don't build over the motor. If it breaks down during a show, you want to be able to swap out for another motor Have your module geared, so that when powered via a train controller, it runs correctly, when the dial is turned to the right. Or, if running off battery box, when the power switch is pushed *away* from the connector. If possible, design the output to be directionally flexible - it makes it easier to align to the next module, or can help when turning corners on a layout It's ok to have input a brick or two lower, or the output a brick or two higher... ... but don't have a a module that outputs *too* high... balls bounce, and will most likely bounce/spill out of the next module
  3. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    all it needs is a better counterweight, and the operation would be much smoother!
  4. RohanBeckett

    Lego GBC Spiral Lift Module

    Another great module Sawyer! You are really coming up with a lot of good mechanical ideas!
  5. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    I was nice to my 4.5v motors.. and they are still running... 30+ years later ;) really need to make a 'vintage' style GBC, using all 80's parts/motors!
  6. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    When I used your step module.. it's still geared inside.. so even more than 4 phases! I dislike seeing a motor in a GBC straining harder than it should!
  7. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    one thing I found with mine - and it's probably the design, is that it definitely worked better, when all 5 steps were NOT in sync it was much less load on the single motor driving them all, if the 'virtual crankshaft' was balanced Not sure how long you could stretch this design, and have an alternating up/down on each step
  8. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    The small flexible stepper reminds me of the chained Maico Stepper I made: the one-armed pickup-and-put module is quite interesting to watch! and of course, the wheel slider is very impressive!
  9. RohanBeckett

    LEGO Technic Turbo Polyp / Kraken

    if you had posted this - even unfinished to the TC14, I would have voted.. and you probably would have had a fair chance of winning/placing! ;) (although I guess too many non-technic parts!) can't wait to see the next update video!
  10. 5 : 10 1 : 6 8: 4 6 : 3 12 : 2 7 : 1
  11. RohanBeckett

    [GBC] The Akiyuki Project

    Thanks... to be honest, I mostly used it, as I have 4 train motors spare, and figured these were *designed* to run at high speed, for longer periods, than the PF/M motor, with it's planetary gears inside And I'd be less upset if I killed it after a weekend of non-stop running, than any other motor! :) vs As it happened, I ended up running it only on 1/2 power, on a Train Controller.. so no fear of that happening The Actuator was very much essential to fine tune the gap between the wheel and the tubing. if I altered the speed, I would sometimes have to alter the pressure.. But once everything was set just right (sometimes took a few minutes of adjusting), it was set to run for hours.
  12. RohanBeckett

    [GBC] The Akiyuki Project

    agreed - running a ball around in your hand is the quickest way to find if the clips are interfering... you'll know straightaway when you feel a bump My Ball Flinger - although much smaller in scale, uses the same technique... and after bracing it very strongly, to prevent vibration, and tubing movement, it became quite reliable
  13. RohanBeckett

    [GBC] The Akiyuki Project

    My Ball Factory Board is: an 810mm x 460mm sheet of 12mm ply it is edged with pieces of dressed-pine, 11x30mm, to give rigidity and to act as a ball spill tray I drilled 4.5mm holes to fit the 3L axles into, to lock the baseplates into place, with a bush, and 2x4 plate with holes Obviously the size can be anything you want.. I had envisioned eventually buying/making a perspex box to house it. Not much imperial left here in Australia... diagonal TV/LCD sizing (24", 42") is about the only mainstream remnant left
  14. RohanBeckett

    What motivates you guys to build Technic?

    I neeeed to move zee ball, from here <--- to --> here, using zee most complicated way possible! :)
  15. RohanBeckett

    GBC General Discussion

    Very well done! Hopefully the more the feature it.. the more likely we'll see a 'box-o-balls' set for sale! :D