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allanp

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by allanp

  1. allanp
    +1 for flex system. Non colour vomited axles, connector pegs and gears. I can see the appeal but I think they could design better alternatives to these, like a 8880 style cv joint without the 8880 friction and larger, deeper, 8448 like wheels but with a firmer mounting and better look.
  2. allanp
    Here's how I'de like it. Studded for chassis construction and gearbox housings to reduce twisting and increase rigidity and studless for everything else. Maybe some brick built details like seats would also be good. I doubt we'll see brick built chassis again any time soon as studded beams cost more to produce.
  3. allanp
    I can't wait for the flagship backhoe they'll make with 10 or more of those long cylinders!
  4. allanp
    That's correct.
  5. allanp
    i think the upcoming Jurassic park sets could have been a good opportunity to bring back monorail.
  6. allanp
    I thought it was fun to motorise the 8862 b model, even though steering was still manual. I see it as being like any other motorised function. In this case (if I remember correctly) there was 4 stages of 1:3 gear reduction, the first stage being a belt, making a total reduction of 81:1 without the use of worm gears, which meant a fast low torque motor was easily capable of driving the model and the front crop scooper upper thingymagigger. I think that's much more interesting mechanically than an IR controlled motor>16t>16t>16t>bevel>bevel>16t>16t>function. The fast spinning belt right next to the slow but powerful big wheel with the crop thingy turning right in front of that is a little mesmerising. I don't think being wireless would have made the function any better.
  7. allanp
    Yes, the large front wheels can be motorised.
  8. allanp
    I think mindstorms was 1998.
  9. allanp
    Dear lego
  10. allanp
    Should really be thinner with a slightly larger, deeper wheel so that two can be directly pinned together without any spacer. Also, by being large enough to be able to place the steering pivot inside the wheel you will effectively eliminate any of the axle bend seen in the Arocs and would take some strain off the steering.
  11. allanp
    That totally looks like the face that pops up in the Exorcist, good job
  12. allanp
    I'de use very fine wet and dry sand paper and then protect the rod as well as replenish the seals with silicone based lubricant. Try to avoid anything petroleum or alcohol based.
  13. allanp
    Fantastic MOC. Getting a live steered front axle using a realistic drop link is always difficult but you've made it look trivially easy
  14. allanp
    I guess Burf2000 gets the one for most weight carried.
  15. allanp
    ELEVEN!!! Those who get the reference, I salute you!
  16. allanp
    Glad I could help That's a good tip, I always do that.
  17. allanp
    To make the loop, tie it round a pencil with a double knot then remove the pencil to leave a loop. Then, on step 18 of the instructions (page 46) hook the loop onto the 2L axle placed on sub step 3. The string does not pass through the loop. If you look closely at sub step 4 you will see that that's where the loop is attached. Hope this helps.
  18. allanp
    I can see the motor, look just above the sticker for the bed tipping function.
  19. allanp
    One thing I really liked about 8880 and 8865 steering arms was that they they had long steering arms (which reduces the effect of slop in the system) with built in ackermann geometry which made much better steering.
  20. allanp
    Should work. That diff has 28 teeth just like the old bevel driven diff.
  21. allanp
    In the past I have used 2 12 tooths and a 14 tooth in a differential to create a limited slip diff.
  22. allanp
    Unimog was 4 years ago. I think it's a Mercedes cycle. Bring on more Mercedes sets! I like Mercedes now
  23. allanp
    Should only need one PF channel for the servo. The adjustment is done manually and only needs to be set once unless you want to adjust it remotely.
  24. allanp
    Here's a quick mock up. The servo moves through it's full range using the bang bang remote. By turning the 12t double bevel gear on the far right side you can adjust the speed at which a heavy load like a crane boom comes down. It's very precise, you can adjust it so that you have to pump it a little to get it to come down. This quick mock up has a flaw though. To properly place the servo it really needs to be 1 stud higher and half a stud back. It works great but the position of the servo makes the spring want to push the yellow connector of the top of the valve, but it gives you the idea of what I mean. Hope you find it useful
  25. allanp
    Remember that to properly move a valve using a servo that you should gear it down by about 2:1, 20:12 is close enough, because the valve does not move as far as the servo. This will in effect increase the servo resolution. Alasdair's solution of mechanically limiting the valves movement is probably the best solution if you have room for it. You can limit the valves movement very precisely by using a lever that is adjusted by a 24t gear mated to a worm gear to give you infinite adjustment. Then use a spring as the link between the servo and the valve so that the servo can move to it's full range without being over strained. This works great because you can activate the servo so it opens the valve, allowing the load on the cylinder to drop. Then slowly adjust the worm gear until you here the faint hiss of air that Blakbird was talking about and boom, your heavy load will lower nicely and controlled every time, even with a bang bang remote.
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