DLuders

It probably fits on this forum. What is the name of the robot (on the left)? Judging by the height of the Technic Figure (on the right), the robot would be scaled as being 3 meters tall! That Lego Man thinks that he's important -- that's why he placed himself upon a pedestal!

@ SNIPE: The blunt end of the 8L "Technic Axle with Stop" part (which you want to use for a plunger) won't fit all the way into the hollow Support cylinder, because it's too wide. If you inserted a Technic Axle into that bottom hole (where the 2x2 Brick portion is), air will escape around the four grooves around the axle. The only way to do what you want is to saw-off the top of the Support and insert the pieces. That's what The Lego Group has to do when they manufacture Lego Pneumatic Cylinders; they are molded together. Instead of trying to dissect Lego parts VIRTUALLY, you really need to buy some REAL parts from Bricklink and save yourself a lot of time.

@ SNIPE: The 2x2x11 Support has a Lego Technic Pinhole in the bottom (where the square 2x2 brick is), but one can see into the central (hollow) cavity. So, a long Lego Technic Axle can fit in there. Why don't you BUY one yourself and see for yourself?

Yes, it chews the rubber up, but who cares? The USD ~$0.25 rubber part can easily be replaced. Even real differentials have some maintenance requirements, and wear out. I can't think of an easier way of improving the climbing performance of a stock-Lego 9398 4x4 crawler than locking the differentials. Just jamb those rubber parts into the differentials, and you're done! If you want to restore the differentials to their original state, just pry them out. Better tires would help that 9398 model too, but some "Lego purists" don't want to use them. So, the rubber part is a cheap, easy, 100% Lego solution. .

Interesting! Be careful about using JB Weld epoxy around electric motors -- it has magnetic properties and may affect the motor's performance. See this Eurobricks post for details. Perhaps a non-magnetic epoxy would work adequately, so as not to affect the motor's magnetic field.

The proportions of the modified 42000 model now seem closer to the real F1 racecars, such as this Ferrari below. Perhaps the front wing should be widened more on the model (to prevent "running up" onto the back of other racecars when drafting):

Looks real good!

Those blue Lego Boat hulls are the 57789c01 "Boat Hull Unitary 74 x 18 x 7 Complete Assembly with Light Bluish Gray Top" parts:

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Fresko's fully-motorized Lego Technic 9395 modifications have been posted on Rebrickable. He also posted his Lego Technic V8 "Engine with Noise" (with the Lego Digital Designer (LDD) .lxf file) on Rebrickable. Thanks for sharing them, Fresko!

No, because the "sprung weight" of a Lego car is fairly light. If you drain the Shock Oil out of an RC car's shock absorbers, however, and then tried to do jumps with the car, you will quickly "bottom out" the suspension. Springs only push the car back up when you hit a pothole; the shock absorber's damping capability make the passengers keep their teeth!

@ Sheepo: Can you design a modular, Lego-based Jeep Hurricane axle? It has a Split Solid Axle....

From this HowStuffWorks article, "Unless a dampening structure is present, a car spring will extend and release the energy it absorbs from a bump at an uncontrolled rate. The spring­ will continue to bounce at its natural frequency until all of the energy originally put into it is used up. A suspension built on springs alone would make for an extremely bouncy ride and, depending on the terrain, an uncontrollable car. "Enter the shock absorber, or snubber, a device that controls unwanted spring motion through a process known as dampening. Shock absorbers slow down and reduce the magnitude of vibratory motions by turning the kinetic energy of suspension movement into heat energy that can be dissipated through hydraulic fluid. To understand how this works, it's best to look inside a shock absorber to see its structure and function."

The 75347/ 6168c01 "Support 2 x 2 x 11 Solid Pillar" is indeed hollow on the inside; I am holding one of them now. However, the bottom (square) portion is just like a regular 2x2 brick; one cannot insert anything (other than a round Technic Pin) in that end. I suppose that the uppermost (round 2x2 plate) area could be cut off to insert something inside of it, and then reattached with ABS glue that one can get from a hardware store:

He must mean the 41677 "Technic, Liftarm 1 x 2 Thin" part:

Nice use for that 45590 "Black Technic, Axle Connector Double Flexible (Rubber)" part (which averages only USD ~$0.25 in cost). That part is not rare at all; it's being produced in 2013 sets and appears in 60 different sets. One could not build a compact, Limited Slip Differential with all-Lego parts with less than $0.25 in improvements.

That cube reminds me about this Lego Technic Dice (posted on TechnicBRICKS):

The A-pillar (on the windscreen) is made using the 40244 "Support 1 x 1 x 5 1/3 Spiral Staircase Axle":

On his website, Nico71 (Nicolas Lespour) recently posted this Lego Technic All-Wheel-Drive Rally Car. He wrote that "This supercar has the following functions : Steering with Hand Of God and Steering Wheel Suspensions All wheel drive Transmission with 3 differentials Fake V8 Engine Openable Door and roof Removable optional motorization "The removable motorization is made with a special translated frame, on which the motors are connected. The two L motors are mounted on this frame, the lever operates a 12-tooth gear on a rack pinion, then the rack moves the frame. In first position, the motors are not meshed with the transmission, in the second position, the 24-tooth gears on the motors are meshed on the central differential of the transmission which drive the car." It has a lot of features -- see more on his webpage and on his .

I like the details and minifigs that you use -- is that guy leaning over the railing because he's seasick?

The 2506 Lego Ninjago Skull Truck seems to have a nice selection of useful System and Technic parts (from this Bricklink inventory).

It looks really sharp, and is very agile!

I like how the thrusters work -- simple yet elegant. I wonder what the ducks would think about this if it was placed in that pond in your local park! What waterproof camera housing was used for the underwater shots?

[bUMP] On Rebrickable.com, kub0slaw posted this Lego Technic "Monster Truck powered by 2 XL motors and 1 Servo motor". It has a Lego Digital Designer (LDD) .lxf Building Instruction file , or step-by-step printed Building Instructions on his Brickshelf gallery. Kub0slaw wrote that his "MOC [is] powered by 2XL motors (propulsion) and Servo motor (steering), other features: - 4x4 drive - return to centre - front and rear suspension - easy on/off switch - you can open the doors - easy body removal (only 4 pins) and battery access - PF lights can be easily mounted - aggressive look ;) As usual click...to see more photos. LDD hasn't Servo motor and battery box - you can use either 84599 or 88000-1 2D instruction has all most everything :) Enjoy" ( )

Nice Lego Technic rock crawler! I'm guessing that you did not use any Differentials in the drivetrain, since your MOC was able to climb some STEEP rocks with those 3rd-party tires. I like how you used those 98341 "Ring 4 x 4 with 2 x 2 Hole and 4 Arrow Ends (Ninjago Spinner Crown)" parts as wheel covers -- they make the Rock Crawler look wicked! Do you have any other photos showing the details of your MOC? I tried glancing at the underside during the "Bloopers" part of your video to see the gearing....