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MikeTwo9398

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Everything posted by MikeTwo9398

  1. MikeTwo9398
    The pivot point for making the wheel go up and down was an axle supported on both sides. For the wheel I used an axle going through 2 beams, but the pivot point there was a black pin.
  2. MikeTwo9398
    I once made an attempt to. My cargo were the walls of the Rough terrain crane 42085 set https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/170913-moc-truck-with-inner-loader/ It's hard to get the wheels stable without making the trailer to wide.
  3. MikeTwo9398
    The same as for the 42140 more pictures can be found here: https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC01_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC02_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC03_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC04_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC05_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC06_NOBG.jpg https://www.brickmerge.de/img/sets/l/LEGO_42139_WEB_SEC07_NOBG.jpg
  4. MikeTwo9398
    Looking at the video it is hard to see what is going wrong but first check if the red levers are correct positioned in the red moving driving ring (building steps 31-33 starting at page 75). What also might help is activating some (or all) of the other motors to make the gears rotate, that might shift the driving ring into the correct position. What I did with my 8043 is changing the two 16 gears, used for switching, into a 12 and 20 tooth (placing the 12, step 29 page 72, on the motor axle and the 20 tooth gear in step 35 page 79). This way the motor needs les torque/power moving the shifting levers.
  5. MikeTwo9398
    Very nice looking and fast riding Trophy truck. When I looked at the video the back axles seems to bend through (at 2:09) This might cause more damage to the crossaxles. I would strengthen the rear axle so it doesn't sag. I have made a Trophy truck aswell (based on Madoca1977 Baja Trophy Truck) and yes with the buggy motors the axle started to worn out after a while. I geared it down to gain more control of the car and gave it more power to drive over rough terrain.
  6. MikeTwo9398
    22: 10 4: 6 23: 4 17: 3 11: 2 25: 1
  7. MikeTwo9398
    Looking at the terrain I think the Zetros performs very good. I agree with @Ngoc Nguyen the hood popping open must be frustrating....
  8. MikeTwo9398
    @Jim (or anybody else) can you show us a picture of the Zetros next to the Arocs 42043. I would like to see if the scala of booth models fit.
  9. MikeTwo9398
    In this video new elements are shown for the 42129 https://youtu.be/AI4SA6keh8A?t=1274 Did not check complete video (was only interested for the 42129).
  10. MikeTwo9398
    Found a few other pictures. Also the backside of the box showing the position of the m-motor.
  11. MikeTwo9398
    I did use 3 LiFePo4 batteries and 3 spacers with a SBrick in my Baja Buggy. The buggy has 1 servo, 1 LED and 2 Buggy motors (each on 1 port of the SBrick). So far nothing got damaged. Powering Locomotive motors will probably no problem. Just make sure the voltage does not exceed the 10.8 [V]. The only problem I encountered, was that not every battery box worked.
  12. MikeTwo9398
    Don't know if there are white axles in this set. Look at the speedbuild video from Brick Depot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFOyAjlmB3U
  13. MikeTwo9398
    Reading the story I made this drawing of what I think you did. If not please add a picture so we can see what you are doing. At the bottom I draw the current situation. The motor drives the right part of the middle differential, the front axle wheels and the middle differential will rotate. If you block the middle differential the small gears in the middle differential will make the back axle rotate (left side of the middle differential). The back axle will rotate in the correct direction! To make it work correct the motor should drive the middle differential directly on the 24 gear side (or the other side). Both left and right of the middle differential will start rotating. If you don't flip the back axle differential the front and back axle will not rotate in the same direction. Good luck...
  14. MikeTwo9398
    It is possible you did nothing wrong. A differential will alway rotate the axle with the lowest friction. Hold both front wheel still and see if the rear wheels start rotating. In case the rear wheels rotate in the wrong direction remove the differential of the rear axle and mount it back 180 degrees rotate.
  15. MikeTwo9398
    These are the trucks I made. They have the same scale as the Mercedes Arocs 42043 . The airport refuler: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/153209-moc-airport-refueler/ And my 4x4 Truck with Innerloader: The cabin is the same but the chassis became shorter and is missing the gear box from the Refuler. I improved the wheel suspension on the front axel, but kept the steering mecahnism the same making it possible to have a short turning radius. http:// https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/170913-moc-truck-with-inner-loader/ For this truck I made building instructions. You can find it on Rebrickable.
  16. MikeTwo9398
    This was used in the in past with the 12 Volt train series. Like the picture below. I never tried to use it in a technic build.
  17. MikeTwo9398
    Wondering what Lego will do with the feedback.... These are my answers 1: No or all brand 2: Futuristic vehicles (video games), Robots 3: 250 euro 4: Great Ball Contraption 5:Technology; Control+; Building Experience; 6: Control + but then with a simple remote controller; Control + simple switch (Switch in between battery and motor/light); Lights/sound as we had in when 9 Volt started 7/8: Yes; Like remote control 9: Ability to connect motors in parallel in case feedback is not needed. (and added points mentioned in #6). 10: Flex cables as used in the 8479 Barcode Truck 11: Yes
  18. MikeTwo9398
    16: 10 26: 6 3: 4 7: 3 19: 2 6: 1 Good luck to all.
  19. MikeTwo9398
    Did you try to use another battery box? When I was experimenting with LiFePO4 batteries I found out that it was not working with all of my battery boxes. A few showed the same results as the video shows. I could not find out why, maybe older/newer type of battery boxes caused it.
  20. MikeTwo9398
    Yes, i know. Now I have more time to read what is shown in the other forums. Normaly I only read "technic-and-model-team" (By the way still not working )
  21. MikeTwo9398
    Same here , Well good reason to look in the other forums ....
  22. MikeTwo9398
    In my Buggy I use 1 battery box, 1 Sbrick, 2 Buggy motors for drive and 1 servo for steering. It works fine for, say, 20 to 30 minutes with rechargeable batteries. Placing 2 battery boxes in parallel is possible, but you have to put them in the same position and connect them both to the SBrick or put 1 cable in the other box. The only benefit you have is a slightly longer driving time, but your car will have to move more mass. If you are using 1 battery box, make the design so that you can easily change the battery box. If you really want more driving time, you can use 2 battery boxes and 2 SBricks. Connect 1 Buggy motor to each Sbrick.
  23. MikeTwo9398
    I build similar car but with a solid axel on the back. I used Madoca1977’s Baja Trophy Truck as guide line. Here you can find what I made Baja Buggy
  24. MikeTwo9398
    Or you sure it's the V2 receiver and not the power supply. I have one batterybox that also does funny things when the power consumption is to big. Reading your story the motor uses more amperes when driving on a carpet.
  25. MikeTwo9398
    Very nice, big vehicle. But I was wondering about the design of the 2 speed gearbox. When I build a multiple speed gearbox the red gears always seem to slip in the coupling. I also see that a central differential is not used. I did not use that on my 4x4 refeuler truck and that caused broken gears and couplings in my front axle differential. The 2 speed gearbox looks simple can you show us the gearing of this model?
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