MikeTwo9398

Thanks for the comments. I first wanted to place it directly after the cabin but could not come up with a proper locking. Looking further I came up with this position. Putting the batterybox here made it is easy and quick to exchange. And it provides also some pressure on the rear axel. Although sometimes during a rough ride the batterybox jumped out of its position I don't own a Buwizz but on this position I believe it fits perfect. I always seem to have a problem embedding a youtube film or a link to another topic like @Zerobricks did in his comment. What am I doing wrong?

Hi everybody, I always wanted to make Madoca1977’s Baja Trophy Truck or something similar…. Well here’s my result. Now here you can see it in action…. I wanted to use buggy motors to drive the Baja buggy. (Unfortunately I only have 1 Lego Buggy motor, but for this model I bought 2 buggy motors from CADA). The front of the Baja Trophy Truck's chassis is the same as Madoca. The rear wheel drive is my own design. This also applies to the seats and cabin. The cabin is not as strong as Madoca's and also lacks the roll cage. I wanted to see if this model has a bit of speed and agility. As it turns out, I can barely drive the model because it is so fast. It drives on all kinds of terrain. The buggy drives fine with the normal 1.2 volt rechargeable batteries. But driving through the grass is a bit difficult. I once read a topic on this forum about lifepo4 batteries and thought let's give it a try. And to my surprise, it really drives everywhere like crazy. Topic "do-you-use-12v-or-15v-batteries" The buggy has : 1 Servo motor for steering 2 Buggy motors for driving (1 on each rear wheel) SBrick for control Battery box with 3x LiFePo4 and 3x dummy batteries (Work also fine with normal (reachable) batteries but has not much speed when driving through grass or very rough terrain) Building Instructions Nowadays I want to be able to rebuild my own models when I break them down, so I make a digital copy of the model. I always did this in LDD but since it is no longer updated I switched to Stud.io. It took some searching but now I am able to build the models and making the instructions is also easy. Here are some examples Since Madoca has provided his Baja Trophy Truck with free instructions, I want to share my Baja Buggy's instructions with everyone for free. Here you can find the Building Instructions and Studio file I'm not good at designing beautiful bodywork, but building this Baja Buggy has given me hours of building fun. Making the instruction toke me a lot of evening hours, but I like the result. Sorry for the experienced builders, the instructions are step by step as Lego does nowadays, this means that there are a total of 663 steps (about 500 pages). It is certainly not a professional design, there are some steps in the Studio file that do not fit completely, but it fits perfectly when building. Some work in progress Compare Here are some pictures showing the model compared to the famous 8466 4x4 Off-Roader and the 42110: Land Rover Defender. And a few renders of the Baja Buggy More pictures can be found here.

Recently I bought a set of 4x 3.2V AA 14500 LiFePO4 rechargables including 4 x dummy at 123accu.nl. I also purchased a charger for this. I built a Baja Buggy with 2 buggy motors (unfortunately not from Lego but from CADA), a Lego servo motor all controlled with a SBrick. The buggy rides nice and fast but with the LiFePo4 batteries it goes so fast that I can hardly control the buggy (I just have to practice a bit). Another advantage is the lower weight of the batteries, unfortunately the capacity is lower than the 1.2 [V] rechargeable batteries. I want to make a topic of the Baja Buggy (based on Madocas Baja Trophy Truck) but first I need to make a video where you can see the batteries in action. Here are some pictures of the batteries: Voltage with GPO rechargeables Voltage with the LiFePo4 Batteries in the Lego battery box

Familiar question in the Landrover 42110 topic. But first check if the central differential is standing still when you rotate the back wheels. If so then the front wheels will rotate in the other direction because of the differential. Rotate the front and the back wheels at the same time in the same direction. Then the central differential should also rotate. If the 2 axles of the back side rotate in opposite direction then check the 2 differentials in the rear part of the Hauler.

You could try this (not tested just an idea). https://bricksafe.com/files/MikeTwo9398/steering/Steering_option.jpg/800x450.jpg Servo 1: select steering mode Servo 2: Both axles rotate in the same direction Servo 3: Both axles rotate opposite If no mode is selected with servo 1 then funny things might happen

When I tried to make it RC I used all kind of gears that are in the set. Added the same kind 8, 12, 16, 24 colored tan, black and dark gray gears. Used a modified servo motor controlled 3steps Gearbox from @Sariel. Played with the car and was working good on a flat surface, but gearbox was not strong enough driving outside. Then I rebuild the car and did not know which gears I added and which are original. I only flipped the differential and was surprised the gears did not crack anymore.

I have build the Land Rover for the second time after several attempts to make it RC. With the second build I maybe only switched some gears of my own collection and flipped the differentials 180 degrees and there is no cracking of gears this time. So I can confirm @kbalage story that it is possible to build it with cracking gears.

29: 10 59: 6 30: 4 53: 3 47: 2 24: 1

29: 1059: 621: 430: 31: 25: 1

Found the instructions, I believe 2 days ago, and used it yesterday to motorize my Lego Land Rover 42110. Already tried several ways to make the Land Rover remote controlled with controlled gearbox but your gearbox is working the best. I changed one (actualy 2) thing and used another axle as out put. I replaced the axle next to the output axle with the 16 and 24 gear by a differential. This way I am able to use both ends. I also added an extra 8 teeth gear on the opposite side of the 8 teeth gear in your gearbox to prevent slipping the 8 teeth gear on the differential. I am using a buggy motor so I have to gear down a few time to make the car move. At the moment it's driving but has no torque when climbing.... I am thinking of changing another part of you gear box to make one speed very slow with more torque to climb. The other thing I changed is using my broken Servo motor so I can use the normal remote . The servo does not return to the middle position when I stop using the remote. Just giving a short click on the remote to the other direction it's stops in the middle when going to the opposite direction.

Yes I have the same issues. I think almost everybody. If you change the gear setting friction becomes less. You can have also cracking gears. In the long 42110 topic a few causes are mentioned. Just shift the low friction gear and the car runs very nice.

I thinks I know what happens. But first check if the red differential is standing still when you rotate the back wheels. If so then the front wheels will rotate in the other direction because of the differential. Rotate the front and the back wheels at the same time in the same direction. Then the red differential should also rotate including the fake motor.

1: 10 18: 6 5: 4 7: 3 19:2 23: 1

I have the same clicking/cracking sound only in the gear setting when the pisitons move at it's fasts. I noticed that the gears shown in the video from RacingBrick at 4:00 are slipping/jumping over each other. And there is no gap ..... Everything else mentioned here is OK.

Then I was luckier. I bought the last one today at a local store for €158.30. They only had 2 and already regret that they did not order more of them.

4: 10 8: 6 1: 4 2: 3 3: 2 6: 1

I have read this sad news yesterday morning. I am happy to have met him a few times at LegoWorld in Utrecht. I followed his designs for several years. I build with mostly technic parts but his designs are incredible. He even made me buy the instructions for the Truck T18. My condolences to his family and friends.

Or just the start of a new generaties of controlled gearboxes. New motors can be used as a servo motor.

You saw it already. Ask Technivor in his topic: MOC Freightliner

Hi everyone, This is a new project I am/was working on. I build an trailer capable to load high objects. For now it’s finished but I am not that pleased with the looks. In Dutch it’s called a “Binnenlader” as far as I know in English it “Innerloader”. It’s used to transport high objects like prefabbed walls. Some transporters use this kind of trailer to have 2 loading floors (Double Deck Trailers). The bottom of the trailer is very low to the ground. The trailer can be loaded by crane but it is also possible to load a carrier that can be load- and unloaded by the trailer. The carrier can be separated from the trailer. This is done by lowering the trailer, open the tailgate, and drive forward leaving the carrier standing. by My model automatically opens and closes the back door when the trailer is moving down or upwards. Don’t think is done with a real trailer but I wanted to make it remote controlled with as less motors possible. I was able to only use 1 motor. Have a look at the video and photo's:. http://youtu.be/D-oJ6EqskxQ

4 years ago I had the same problem with my Barcode truck 8497. All the insulation of the wires was gone or had broken down. In 2014 I bought a few new original Lego wires (several lengths). I just checked, but it seems that they are also slowly decaying. The electrical cable of my mobile crane 8421 is still okay, but it also looks like it will also crumble. When I bought the original Lego wires they were in there original package. They may have remained good because of that package.

3:10 4:6 10:4 12:3 1:2 11:1

May I ask where you work and what kind of job you have .

@blondasek I think you are right. You need 6 pins with axle. It's correct in the instructions but the needed materials in the instructions are wrong. Althoug I had 3 3l-pins left over. 2 not used at building step 738 and 1 not used at step 1036. At step 1036 I used a 2l-pin instead of 3l-pin.

My ugly TC6 entry: Wiggle truck. http://Wiggetruck 01