Ashi Valkoinen

For really first you should consider, what are your aims. I mean you would like to be an "amateur" (in the not negative meaning of the word), playing at home with your sets and own creations, or by an exhibitor and attend events where you show (in couple of years) what you've built on your own. For first - and you have the place for this hobby at home - you should not make too many compromises - just grab a couple of Power-Functions (train motor, battery box, remote control, IR receiver) parts or buy a train set - and get started. Being an exhibitor - mostly including a membership in a LUG (LEGO User Group) in your are - needs more compromises, especially if you share a layout with fellow members. Also you should consider what you really want - make fantasy train, MOD sets or collect sets, or design a model-replica of some existing real train. Then choosing train system - in these times the older 9V (DC controlled from metal rails) and newer PF (Power Functions, battery and IR-remote based stuff) systems are available for you. Older sets and systems like 12V (DC controlled from inner metal rails between those rails which drive train wheels) and 4,5V (battery-based, very old system) are available if you can afford it. Choosing scale or the size you build in - 6,7,8 studs wide trains are common, but 4,5 studs wide trains for narrow gauge, and 9,10+ studs wide monsters also appear. The bigger you build the more details you can put into your model, but more bricks it costs, and sometimes driving long trains on LEGO-curves and points is not a trivia. First try to answer these questions for yourself to start this hobby without unnecessary costs and dead ends.

It was a challange to put all those colour details into my RailJet train (and Taurus locomotive's B end still waits for a solution with narrow gray pattern), but yes, it was worth to wait 2 years to collect all those parts. :) I'm really proud of the orange strip around doors - it is made by decals even on the original train, but I used plates to represent them. Hungarian cars, yes, easy to build, but sometimes you simply don't need the SNOT-techniques you could put into more complicated builds. Thanks for your feedback anyways!

However the steam locomotive is the main attraction of this thread, I got impressed really by your solution of two-axle freight waggons. It is simply genious. The locomotive is a masterpiece of LEGO-engineering as well, those very little details built from couple of black pieces around wheels and using hose and pneumatic tube together on the front. Maybe driver's cab insidings deserve little more (but I don't know, on the real thing how many pressure-meters and other things are inside). Question: aren't you afraid losing those tiny parts around wheels during run? Most of them are hold only by one stud, my real fear is on my creations to lose some parts from bogies and derail on them on the next loop...

Nice video of your Horizon Eypress running! Motors and speed: adding a PF-motor won't make the train significantly faster, but it gives the pulling power and traction I need on curves and points. Since my FLIRT trains are driven each with one SBricks and two PF-motors currenty, in weight I think they are heavier then your HE with 4 motors and 2 SBricks (and all weight comes to 10 axles, not to 26 as in your modell), they need on more to keep speed better. I need a single train to lose not too much speed due to drag in curves to avoid derailments when rear train in straights still pushing, or decoupling when front train is getting speed in straights, but rear train still in curves or on points. Profiles: your HE-locos together make an invidual train. I have two invidual trains I want to run sometimes together. With the app 1.6 and older I could put the driving functions on different sliders at the same time, so I was able to run my red and my blue flirt separately, stop them next to each other, where magnet couplers can couple, and then start both trains with a third, common slider (from the same profile). Yes, I know I can add and remove SBricks from a profile, but changing between profiles after coupling is still faster then configuration, on the other hand when FLIRTs are decoupled, I need both train to be driven separetely. For this usage different profiles is the solution, but I hope we get back the function I described above. Thanks for feedback!

I can't add to much for designing, programming and printing, but I fell in love with those long radius points. I really hope that test-parts will function good and after some time these points will be available for LEGO train community. Really thanks for the effort, work hours and euthanism you out into this project!

Previous tests with description of how SBrick should be mounter in trains and how it can be used from smart devices, please refer to this thread: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=115885 After equipping my red Stadler FLIRT EMU (415-001) with SBrick and testing it on different events I decided to put the SmartBrick inside my blue (415-061) Stadler FLIRT EMU as well. The two 9V train motors had been removed and two PF train motors (each attached previously to a 9V one) remained in the trains. The basic idea from switching from 9V to SBrick was that the two Stadler FLIRT units with 8 train motors together needed a really high current to move, and after several tries with paralell speed regulators and more power supplies connected to 9V loops it became obvious for me that making 7 kg of trains consisting of two invidual EMUs run is not sustainable on longer time period, and I can't expect other LUG members to supply me with all those extra cables and custom 230V AC->10V DC adapters under their part of layouts. Other issue was that voltage in 9V tracks depended how far the 9V train motor from power supply was, so synchronising the speed of my two FLIRTs seemed impossible. The two PF-train motors driven from SBricks can deal with the 3.5 kg weight of each FLIRT train, however they really slowed down on sharp turns and points. Each train can run around 3 hours with 6 pieces of 2100 mAh VARTA AA rechargeable batteries. For synchronised run I needed to design a new SBrick profile on designer.sbrick.com, where a slider drived both trains' SBricks' driving output (actually output "D" in my MOCs). After setting up the right polarity (done in profile settings, the two EMUs started into opposite direction for first try) they started to run, the magnet couplers hold them together and there were no problems on straight track segments. Problems started to appear in curves, the rear train, running still on straights was faster than the first one slowed down in curves, so it simply pushed the first one through the coupling causing derailment of the last bogie of the first train. Unfortunately it seems that two PF train motors are not enough to keep up the speed in curves, however with careful driving and slowing down in time the derailment can be avoided. Also rechargeable batteries should be approx in the same condition, a train with fresh or stronger batteries will be faster, however they have approx. the same weight and number of train motors. These derailments and problems (I almost couldn't run coupled FLIRTS on points, the first train leaving the point become faster and decoupled from the rear one) are caused by the not satisfying number of train motors and maybe failures of my train couplings, I'm working on them by now :) , equipping FLIRTs with a third PF-train motor for less slow-downs and a stronger, technic-parts containing coupling system (but still keeping magnets for easy to play experience) Also I need to put EMUs front/tail lights for ends "A" and "B" to different outputs - I can't reach the small polarity reversal bricks to turn off lights between units (see Fig.1. for details). Fortunately SBrick has four outputs - now two for front/tail lights, one for driving and one for indoor lights are being used. Fig.1. Polarity reversal brick to turn off front/tail lights manually on my EMU when the end is connected to other EMU. Not very playable when the train is in the middle of they layout. And let see how the application worked for me. I used a HTC One M8 mobile with the latest application and latest firmwares on my SBricks. Problem 1.: You are not allowed since version 1.6 for Anroid to attach an SBrick port to more sliders or buttons. Therefore when I start to operate Stadler FLIRTS simultanously, I have to first exit from the profile wich allowed to run them separetely (with two driving sliders) then load a profile with one slider for synchron run. It's such a pity that only one slider or button can handle a function. Problem 2.: derived from problem one, application crashed when I tried to reconnect to the two SBricks with a new profile. I don't really now how informatics and programming works, but crashes happened only on the first day of exhibition (7th of April), for the remaining three days they magically disappeared. Problem 3.: Connection lost. It happened quite often, at least three-four times in 10 minutes time gap. When running two trains synchronised and the first stops due to disconnect,well, derailments and broken couplers were the results. Also while App tries to reconnect, the profile screen gets darkened (see Fig.2.) and while it is darkened, you can't handle your outputs - even while the other, connected train is running. The only way to stop if reconnect not happening in short period of time is to exit from the profile. I couldn't figure out the cause of these disconnects, they appeared both while trains were running together, trains were running separately or one or two of them were just staying somewhere with turned on lights only. Fig.2.: One Sbrick disconnected, but other working - and if set to run, still running. Photo is just illustration, taken of different phone and with second SBrick in my Bombardier Talent EMU previously. A short video of the FLIRTs running together with SBrick: Conclusions: Pros +Playability for first - I liked to have my trains run together, controlling both of them with the same slider, then decouple them and let them run on their own way. +Four outputs on one SBrick - I need them more then ever. Increases level of playability. +SBricks can be hidden - no visual contact needed and high range of control - a very needed advantage for bigger layouts. +Not SBricks's Pro, but my FLIRTs now can run on non-9V track as well, ME-models R102s really tempting for smoother run, while I spared 4 of 9V train motors for other MOCs. Cons: -Once it was available to drive an output from different buttons and sliders, it is needed when you need your train solo and synchron run as well. (Or a non-train application - turn sign of car can be driven separately, but when signing warn or get stucked you need to blink them synchronised.) -Still too many disconnect problems, when two SBricks connected to a profile, can't stop non-disconnecting one. (I know, disconnects vary with different type of phones and phone operation systems and it should be hard to write the code which works fine on every device.) -Slider's 80% still not moving a train - not only my heavy ones but any train driven with SBricks. Voltage output function for trains applications should be changed. Please note, this review was focused on the coupled run and my needs, previous review focused more on how to use SBricks. I hope you find useful informations here when you plan to run your locos, motor units together to pull a heavy freight train or carry more passangers in your LEGO-City! My experiences also had been sent to SBrick developer team.

It is a three year old topic, pics surely had been removed from their host a long time ago.

I plan to do so, but I totally depleted my resources right now, the 6 pair of Power Functions led lights will go as indoor lightning of my RailJet train. On the other hand I may use non-LEGO leds, but meh, after so much work on the tram I cannot deal with using non-LEGO solutions. So later I'll add lights, but I can't tell you, when. If you check the video posted above, there are couple of shots from above on curves. The overhang is not really terrible since the front is narrowing, 2 studs overhang from the edge of 2×8 plates under the rails.

Thanks for all of you! I'm really glad you like this MOC, and however I have really lots of MOC trains based on Hungarian rolling stock, I think right after my non-hungarian narrow gauge Končar-tram this CAF Urbos was the hardest thing to design and build. 3D LEGO No problem, every article describes CAF Urbos 3/9 as the longest tram, I'm afraid nowadays journalists takes less effort for writing precise things - and the title sounds well "the longest tram" and noone pays to much attention to two unknown, non-passanger tram. And other journalists just takes the data from a false article, and it goes like this. I wish Budapest buy those cargo trams, there are quite often transports between tram sheds, renewed tram bogies, rail segments, portable temporary switch and other things are transported almost daily on Budapest tram lines. But I'm afraid it is just a dream of mine. :( Fortunately our trams are not covered by full-body advertisements, so no, I can't build 3/9 from various bricks to be covered by decals, but as I did before with quite little money I'm sure I can continue with my train stuff and upgrade this tram to 3/9, or even build a new one once. :D (maybe LEGO is a reason why I never got addicted to parties, alcohol and cigarettes while my university years :D ). And I forgot, a video of the tram running:

Thanks for all comments! 3D LEGO Actually the title "longest tram" is false just like it was with Combino SUPRA NF12B trams (54 metres, in Budapest route 4-6), the title "longest passanger tram" should be used since the CargoTram of Dresden with 5 BoBo wheel arrangement cars are the actual longest trams. But not long, they won't have any work after the factory they served closes in Dresden. Anyways, my LEGO-model is the more economic shorter CAF Urbos (the trans black plates 1×2 and bricks 1×4 and yellow curved bricks were incredible expensive in the quantity I needed), but later could be upgraded easily to the longer tram, four additional sections needed, but they are simpler and a little cheaper than sections with driver's cabs.

Really, really looking forward for R104 and R88 9V curves. Long radius _and_ metal curves \o/

I hope the new project may work. I really miss RailBricks since the last paper. And answering your questions, surely I'll subscribe (and pay) for the magazine and I'm able to make interviews (skype?) with Train Tech guys and write articles. Unfortunately I have no skills for editing and making a professional looking paper, but what I can do I will do it for the community.

Hi all, few months ago I introduced my CAF Urbos 3 type tram, delivered by the spanish company for Budapest public transport company in a LEGO Digital Designer format. Bricklink orders arrived and in the last two weeks I could finally have the tram for real instead of LDD print screens. In this topic I'll show the building tricks I used in the vechile (I dare to say it features some really unique ones) and how it was build. The tram is 8 studs wide, with the length of 7 and half normal length straight tracks. It consists of around 2500 parts in the cost of around 300$-s. The LDD-design took around 40 work hours, the building and getting rid of some failures in LDD-design (such as suspension and coupling) took other 25 work hours. I plan to implement PF-based indoor lights and front/tail lights later, keeping the 9V driving system. So, an overall photo: Tram has five sections, number 1,3 and 5 have wheels, 2nd and 4th one are suspended on the neighbouring sections. First and last section is powered by 9V train motor. First and last section.The yellow bricks, plates and tiles next to the wheels, the bottom and the roof of the tram are built in normal direction, but entire windows, doors and narrowing front wall is built in SNOT. Note the yellow tiles under the door and driver's cab looking downwards and the black hinge plates serving as life-saving-frame. And yes, real tram exactly has the same long nose. Non-driven wheels under the middle section. First I used simple train wheels, but then I discovered that it runs straight on a point set to curve, so I replaced traditional metal-axle wheels with PF-train wheels and axles, because the gauge between wheels can be set up in this configuration to avoid friction and derailments. Front section hinge solutions, hinge parts marked with red circles. The middle hinges prevent the two sides of driver's cab from dislocation. Driver's cab door can be opened. It was hard time to get two of these airplane windows in black, but the real tram has a little window for selling tickets with rounded edges and black frame. So, there it is. Red circles show where the roof and the body of the tram can be connected. At the front there are hinge brick 1×2's to prove the needed angle for front window, other hinge plate 1×2's lock the front window to the roof (yellow ones, no red circles around them). White plates connect the two parts at the driver's cab. On right there are some SNOT 1×1 bricks with side studs in the SNOT window panel. Tricky part was this. The slope 1×2×2/3 is needed at the beginning of the narrowing part, since a simple brick or tile won't fit there without a gap. But the little 1×1×2/3 yellow slopes look forward at the front of the tram, I turned 180° with two headlight bricks inside the structure. A simple pantograph design using hinge plates, cutable 3 mm rigid hoses and minifig hands. Top part is built from two ski plates. You can also take a look at the coupling system, SNOT panels and slope bricks grants you can't see through the coupling from side view, but it allows the tram to take curves. I experienced the most problems with the coupling system. The middle cars have some weight and a single connection with technic beam or plate let the middle car go a little down, get stuck on switches and I hated when the line between black and yellow wasn't exactly on a horizontal line as I expected to be. Also I had no space at the bottom since it is a low-floor tram to build connection between sections, so I had to figure out something on the roof. Two rigid connections are between the cars, one of them is a 2×8 plate, connected with 2 pieces of 2×2 turntables to the wheeled sections. ...and the second connection with a non-shown-here 1×7 technic beam. It also caused problem that the weight of the middle cars often pulled of the 2×2 tile with technic pin from the middle car roof, then I discovered these fantastic 2×4×1 bricks with technic pin (two next to each other on left, locked with 2×2 tiles to the yellow curved bricks). These bricks with 2 studs × 4 studs area connecting to the roof are strong enough not to be disconnected by the weight of the middle car. Only disadvantage that the tram can handle only little horizontal changes - no more than 1 plates / 32 studs slope is allowed. Middle car SNOT solutions. Note that the windows on these sections are a little taller then other windows on wheeled sections. They are one plate higher, and to have this height the SNOT 1×1 bricks under the windows are replaced with non-SNOT bracket, plate and trans black tile. Half plate height of bracket, 1-1 plate height of black plate and trans-black tile (2,5 plates) gives the width of a single stud. Other solution I'm really proud of is the top of the doors. Door glasses are one plate higher then the top line of windows' glass, but doors wings are separated be only one SNOT plate, it was a hard quest to put one more layer glass to the top. On the top there is a SNOT tile locked between trans-black plates in the door, and the remaining stud of the tile is filled with half-plate bracket, 1×2 black plate and 1×2 trans-black tile (2,5 plate height, which works exactly the same as described above to have the 1 stud in height). Bracket is connected to white roof's SNOT 1×1 brick with one stud on side. The 1 plate gap between the two brackets is build leaving not 2, but 3 plates between the SNOT 1×1 bricks with one stud on side. Headlight bricks connect the SNOT roof to the non-SNOT roof-parts. Coupling in work. The tram is tested be now, and it is working on every single LEGO-track geometry. You can find a video here (Facebook-login required): https://www.facebook...53529083453657/ (and I'm not sure, maybe a Membership in LEGO Train Fan Club Facebook-group is also required, but basically every content is set to public in this group) Commenst and critics, as always, welcome.

Very nice and small build, really good job fitting all PF-parts in, especially the receiver is placed well.

The original 9V speed Regulator has a current limitation and perfomance limit as well, so it won't help in this case in the exception of connecting 3-4 9V Speed regulators paralell to the train track. We had to use two modified ones (with 3A limitation) to drive 12 of 9V train motors. SBrick's each output hangles 3A by specification. Maybe SBrick instead of IR Receiver?

Very nice 6W MOC except the four 4×4 tiles with 4 studs, they break the clear lines. Is there a real prototype for this MOC and it also have a wider part or those plates are holding the sponge?

Very nice design. Please share traction experiences with us if you tested her!

Hi all, remember this topic at all? After one and half year finally I had the time and the money to take care of this MOC of mine, so I update it's topic as well. The body of the tram was almost finished, I didn't want to make any major changes on it, but I really wished for see it run on narrow gauge train track. To make this more fun, the tram runs on not the standard narrow gauge (2 studs between rails, like indiana jones tracks or alien base black track), but a brick built track with 3 studs between the rails. It was also a requirement from me to me not to consume noticable space from the indoors - I like to keep my train MOCs for passangers and not for electric parts. The first attempt for driving the wheels was this: The tram's body is 7 studs wide, on studs 1 and 7 are the technic bricks holding the axles, the remaining 5 studs inside is divided in the following order: half stud wide technic bush, train wheel, gap, train wheel, half stud wide bush. The bushes are connected with rubbers to other ones on 5 studs long axles, put inside a train motor placed on the roof, not sacrificing interior. I experienced two major problem with this setting. 1. Not fitting on the track I designed - unfortunately the width of the train wheels are not one stud and not a half, but the two PF train wheels' width together is 1.5 studs. So using two half technic bushes as spacing on the two end of a 5 stud long place makes the tram's gauge less then the track - and it falls between the rails. 2. No space for battery in that car where the train motor is mounted without sacrificing interior - putting a battery pack in other tram modul will result in no adherence between the driven axles and the track, because no weight over the driven axles is. So I had to figure out something else. I was sure that I have to mount the battery pack, the IR-receiver and some kind of motor to the first car - enough weight, close receiver for lights and motor as well. But how? Then I discovered one of these nice PF M-motors at home, I was afraid that it can't pull the whole tram, but I gave a try to it. Battery pack and IR-receiver on the top. Due to the 4 bricks height of the rechargeable battery pack it takes up a little space from the inside, but it is a reasonable compromise for me. M-motor attached to one axle. First I planned to drive both axles in the first modul of the tram, but I experienced only troubles to do that since I'd never built technic stuff before. It took five hours first to figure out how to lock the motor with couple of stud-connections to the totally brick-based tram body without falling or moving after 5-6 second of working. When the motor was finally locked well, it started to push down the closer driven axle, since it was held by only two 1×1 technic bricks to the tram body. Finally I decided to give up both axles driven, and made stronger connection to the tram body for the only driven axle. There was a 2 hour long build where to exactly put the battery box, first it was above the driven axle, but all front of the tram became to light in weight, so frist axle derailed in curves, when I put the battery on the top of the first axle - then the driven one couldn't make the tram run. Finally I designed a little different and stronger coupling between the tram modules and put back the battery pack to the top of the driven axle. Every modules are connected with two technic beams - one end fixed, other end can turn around using a simple pin. The structure of the coupling allows the 5 stud wide interior all along the length of the tram. Then I put everything together... and of course, it didn't move on the oval track built from 16 pieces of 12V track gray curves and 2 pieces of straights. Then I remembered to remove the adherence rubber from all train wheels, still not working. So, photo of the driven modul's bottom once again: If you look closely, you can see that the tram's wheel arrangement on the axle is not totally symmetric. As I wrote above, if I put half technic bushes on both sides on the axle, the wheels will fall between the rails, and unfortunately no quarter bush exist to put it on both sides. Later I discovered that if I leave the wheels at exactly the same distance from each other as the track gauge is then the friction will make the tram stop in curves. So with the exception of the driven axle I put the wheels on the axles a little closer to each other, with the bush-less gap on themselves axles can move a little bit sideways in their blue technic bricks holding them - and magically the tram started to operate finally. With only one little M-motor. That's for today, in couple of days I'll upload a video of the tram running and photos of my track design - I'm just waiting for more tracks, these 12V track segments are a perfect way to create your own gauge LEGO train track. I also plan to make a brick built 90 degrees level crossing between my normal gauge and narrow gauge track - I'm waiting for it to see it once in real operation. :) Comments and critics always welcome.

3 studs = 7,5 plates. You can't avoid using panel 1×2×1 or brackets. These parts have half plate (0,5 plate) sides as well. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/OtherTrainMOC/RHB-StadlerAllegra/allegra04_wip.png From left to right on the door: SNOT bracket (0,5), white plate (1), one trans-clear brick (3), trans-clear plate (1), white plate (1), white tile (1), equals to 7,5 plates.

The other "locomotive" is my Tatra T5C5 type tram from Budapest. I used it in the LDD-model for height and lenght reference since I'm trying to create my models to be proportional to each other as well. You can find pictures of it in this folder: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=544071 For coupling I used technic beams, one end is put on studs (jumper plates), other end is on 2×2 tile with technic pin. See the picture at the end of this post. This tram also exist for real, but unfortunately I have simply taken no photos since I finished it last year Christmas. I changed some details, especially the coupling on the tram, later I'll upload the updated LDD-file and screenshots as well. I guess this tram will cost around 200€ for me, just parts (trans black 1×2 plates could be really expensive and I need 12 of them for each door), and it will need two PF-motors, receiver and battery box as well. I hope I'll find money for this project this summer, but truly said, with salaries in Hungary, paying the same price for LEGO-products as everyone else around the globe, it takes sometimes years for me to get the money for my designs. Thanks you, interior is always really important for me, I can't imagine my MOCs without trying to give inside details as well. Thanks for comment, the driver's cab's side window has a trans black 1×2 plate inside, and the glass is connected to the yellow part inside the driver's cab. I think it won't be fragile, but fortunately there is enough space inside for more strengthening if it needs it. Thanks you! Yes, actually the longest tram all around the world with its 56 metres. OF course, I designed it in my LDD, too. Fun fact, the tram section with two doors is shorter than the other one with one door, and has a third type window, with different size from the other two. :D Unfortunately money is object, I hope I can finish with the shorter one this summer, and then maybe I'll upgrade it to the longer version. It is really simple, just an 1×4 hinge plate which can be turned into 2×2 plate.

Hello everyone, new year, time for a new train MOC, which is actually a tram. Budapest bought last your 37 new trams from the spanish CAF vechile manufacturer, some of the trams arrived by now and working with passangers as well. There are 25 shorter ones from the Urbos 3 type trams, with 5 sections, 3 with wheels and 2 just suspended between the other three sections. Longer ones are now actually the longest trams of thw world with their 56 meters, 9 sections with similar arrangement to the shorter ones. I've designed the shorter tram in my Lego Digital Designer and used technical drawings to replicate the tram as good as possible from LEGO-bricks. 1. Side view. Maybe you notice that the windows have different sizes and positioning, according to the technical drawing I got (unfortunately I'm not allowed to publicate it) there are two different sizes for windows. Another difficulty was the height of the glass in the doors, it obviously end higher than the glass of the windows on the real thing. 2. The entire row for windows is built in SNOT. The SNOT row has 6 studs height, 4 studs for glass, 1-1 studs are black. Doors' SNOT tehcnique is connected to the main SNOT row, but the top of the door is 1 half plate and two plates instead of one stud to insert a trans black tile there for the door's glass. 3. Half plates are connected to the roof. Driver's cab's door is able to opened manually. 4. Driver's cab. 5. Approx. 2300 parts. Won't be a cheap MOC, will it be? Comments and critics, as always, welcome.

For me I try to find the best solution between being to realistic or focusing on play values. For me the best play value is making the train move along the layout (or even better, on the club layout), but running them for days without problems means not to include all details from the real thing, because the LEGO-model can simply be to fragile to run it without any problems for a long time. So I build everything as detailed as it could be until it is working without even minor problems (derails, falling parts, etc). The opening doors you mentioned, it is really hard to build a working _and_ not too ugly door mechanism. The best solution I've ever seen was the video I linked below, but this solutions still needs a 'cut' on the side of the waggons ('cut'=the little narrow space left open with cheese slopes to make space for the train door while opening/closing), and the door still opens only to one direction, not both like real ones. So for me, I leave openable doors for more realism - the train has its play value with making it run around, and most of my designs includes easily removeable roofs to put minifigers inside as 'play'.

I have two different type of IC-waggons for years by now, but I still haven't take photos of them, or their inside. So here are some pictures from the long (60 stud) passanger cars I own. First set of photos about the 3G (third generation) IC-passanger cars of the Hungarian State Railway. Only 10 of these cars were built as rebuilds of old waggons from Poland. (Then the management changed after elections, and the project was over... ) 1. Three waggons, two of them 2nd class, one of the 1st class. The train cars didn't need any "excellent" LEGO-solutions, they are really easy-to-build, brick and slope-built things. 2. Insides have more details and brick-built chairs, according to waggon class and real colours. Green chairs in 2nd class, brown ones in 1st class cars. 3. Every first class chair needed 5 parts (the fifth one under the hinge part is not visible) 4. Three waggons together. The other type of IC-waggons I have is not hungarian, just Hungary-related, since until the arrival of RailJet trains many of austrian IC/EC passanger cars ran on hungarian rails. This first class IC-waggon is one of the oldest austrian IC-Bpmz cars, which got a nice renovation couple of years ago. 1. The waggon itself. 2. Inside... this type of waggons have a corridor on one side, and seats in little rooms on the other. 3. How to separate the rooms without taking one stud from the limited amount of space inside? Technic beam holds the 2×4 plate (which holds the roof as well, making it easily removeable), and a 2×2 plate inserted between the studs of the 2×4 plate. 2×2 tile works as well with this technique, but I found that it falls out more easily. And where I'am now? If I had all my Hungary-related trains out of their boxes, here is a picture of them (currently all working):

I have seen this locomotive before... where it was? Of course, temofeszt! ;) Nice work anyways, as I told you in person, but you should do something about the gears to make it run a little faster. Of course, if you plan to built a dozen of heavy freight waggons for it, the current gear ratio will give enough power to the locomotive to pull almost everything. For me the best part is the framework around the bogies.

Truly said I didn't save the .bbm file, because it was just a draft... but following this image you can reproduce it in less then 5 minutes. (If you are looking for the coloured track segments for different radius, look up for TrackSchematic-v.1.1., it's a quite nice addition to Bluebrick. I found it in the LEGO Train Fan Club facebook group, but I can't remember who made it and when the post occured to the group.)