Ashi Valkoinen

My Koncar tram's design is almost finished, now only slight changes could occur. I faced serious problems with making the tram motorised, one single RC or PF train motor can't even move the tram, so at least two, or maybe three motors needed to give the proper speed to the tram. Placing train motors or other motors above the driven axles will consume all the space for designed interior, so I decided to try something unconventional: The train motor could be totally hidden in the roof, while only those rubbers will take some place from the interor, but I can still keep all the seats! Placing the battery box and the IR receiver into the roof of this section worked, while pulling only this section, I hope three motors will make it run.

I've built a new addition to my locomotive fleet recently, the ÖBB Siemens Taurus loco. Design almost based on my previous MÁV (Hungarian State Railway) Taurus with slight changes.

Hello, I did make some plans of Stadler GTW-s in 8W, but unfortunately they don't have any relation to Hungarian trains, and I'm building rolling stock for Hungary-theme displays. Maybe if once Arriva decides to have a LEGO-GTW, I'll make it. :)

Silly question, but did you check the frequency on the IR controller? Maybe it had been just accidentally changed, I have four of this PF-motors, pulling really heavy trains (2 motors for up to 4 kg) and none of them burnt out, even they are working for 3 years by now.

Folder: https://brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=546856

And now, second Stadler FLIRT for Stadler Trains Hungary with GySEV/ROeEE colouring finished. https://img2.indafoto.hu/4/9/2269_99ef04eb612baf0e86671a5109e22154/26776119_02f13281ad9c4a5fc9d44393217336ba_l.jpg

And first part of the Stadler order described in Railbricks #15 had been delivered to Stadler Trains Hungary Ltd: https://img1.indafoto.hu/4/9/2269_99ef04eb612baf0e86671a5109e22154/26776121_f21336eac0aa5a0fab2b27a57e302ebe_l.jpg

Some VIP photos of the tram, still lot of bricks missing:

Hi all, I've not written to these forums for a while, however I was reading it, now after the new RailBricks Issue 15 came out, including my Stadler FLIRTs I'd like to introduce an another LEGO creation of mine from the last weeks. I spent a long weekend in Zagreb and got inspired by the trams running in the city. they were produced by the croatian Koncar company and are 100% low floor, in 2007 more then 140 of these trams were operating in the capital of Croatia. Additionally, the whole tram network in Zagreb is narrow gauge (1000 mm), which means more fun while designing this tram. I used some solutions from my previous narrow gauge MOC, my Stadler GTW. Pictures, please note, that this tram is still in WIP phase, so slight changes will be made on it: View from the side, only three cars have boogies, two other sections are suspended: Front design, original tram has lot of curves, to make it harder to build from non-curved parts: Reference pictures for the tram: http://www.brickshel...-2200-b-800.jpg http://www.brickshel...k2200-a-600.jpg the gauge is still question for me, the train is 7W, so I could set up "standard" LEGO narrow gauge (when two studs between rail elements, like indiana jones and alien narrow gauge curved tracks), but it fits better to IRL 760 mm tracks than to 1000 mm. To create 1000 mm narrow gauge track I'll need to create tracks for the tram, with 3 studs between rail elements. For driving the tram I plan to use the Power Funtions system, driving the middle section of the train. The distance between the axles is the same what the PF Train Motor has, instead of using gearing and M-motors to drive the tram I'll try to set up with SNOT technique the PF Train Motor above the middle boogie, connecting it with simple 12 tooth bevels, so there will be less energy loss, keeping the speed of the dedicated train motor. Moar pictures later, I hope I will have the money to buy all the things I need for this creation. :) Please leave comments and critics!

I'm glad that I could help you. ;)

For signals read kvp's article in Railbricks Issue #9, it could be simply motorised and automatised!

First run of my FLIRTs coupled together:

I really had good luck with stadler, one their members have seen my very first FLIRT modell at an exhibition in 2010. Driver's cab is dark in my train, too, the light you can see on the picture above come from the bottom front lights, their light infiltrate to the cab.

I've posted this a week ago, then I had no time to reply. So my motivation of using and redesigning smooth curves is to make my display more close to reality. I really hate those sharp curves we got for the LEGO train track geometry, however, okay, it was invented as toy for kids and not for modelling railway. Creating homemade, larger radius switches are non-LEGO solutions, for stations I think original LEGO-switches are good enough, however, if you want to add more reality and playability to your layout you have to build your own track geometry from non-LEGO pieces. For me it's enough compromise to cut original LEGO-switches to make some new connections, but no non-LEGO parts. Aaron: it isn't harder to ballast this design than Holger's one, you just have to know, at which points you place only an 1×2 or 2×2 tile on the baseplate, insted of the two plates + 1 tile combination.

Hello, something went wrong with your pictures, I can't see them from any device or browser.

Yes, you are correct, I built my FLIRT a month earlier, but I was displayed to the public at the the first dipslay of the real train. :)

I was just driving LEGO trains on a LEGO-exhibiton here in Budapest when an idea came to my mind, I really would like to share it with the Train Tech community. I've read Holger Matthes' smooth curves article in Railbricks 1 long time ago, today I played with some straight track segments, building the well-known smooth curve using jumper plate, 1×2 plate and 1×4 plate. Then I looked at a really useful part in the display, this one: Bracket 1*2 - 2*2 And built it's narrower part between the track segments: The studs of the 4 LDU wide part perfectly holds the plate of the track segment (okay, it's illegal connection, but works perfectly), between the 1×2 plate part of the bracket and the other track segment you have to place a single 1×1 or 1×2 plate. The inner side of the curve can be connected with a single 1×2 plate below the track plates, or below and above them, too. Doing some math, calculating the theoretical radius: We have an isosceles triangle, equal sides with 140 LDU distance (LEGO Digital Unit, 1 stud = 20 LDU, 1 brick = 24 LDU, one plate = 8 LDU), the shortest side is 4 LDU long. (Please note, that the bracket brick is inserted by stud 2, not 1 between the tracks, counting studs from outer side of the curve). The half of the isosceles triangle described above is a right triangle, with hypotenuse 140 LDU long and a shorter leg 2 LDU (half of 4 LDUs). The angle opposite of the 2 LDU side is the half of the angle between the tracks, let's name it a. sin a = 2 LDU/140 LDU sin a = 0,0142857 a = 0.8185 degrees 2*a = 1.637 degrees, this is the angle between the two segments. For 90 degress you need 54,97, so 55 connections, which means 56 straight tracks. Lenght of 56 straight tracks is approx. 718 cm (including connections), so the radius is: 716 cm = ( 2*r*PI ) / 4 (it is only a quarter of a full loop) r = 456 cm It could be quite impressive, if you have enough space for a curve like this. If anybody has enough straight and parts to make a try, please do it, my train tracks are reserved for two more weeks. Please discuss!

Hi all, I'd like to introduce my new train creation. Maybe some of you faced the Brickshelf gallery of the new train, the next Stadler FLIRT EMU, built in different colouring. The new LEGO Stafler electric motor unit was introduced to public at the first offical display of the real train to the public, on the 19th March, 2014. Hungarian State Railway bought 42 pieces of Stadler EMU in 2013, expanding its fleet to the total of 102 FLIRTs (which is the largest fleet in Europe in one country). The new generation of hungarian FLIRTs have different colouring than the previous one, they have a blue-white pattern, with yellow doors and dark gray roof. It is almost similar to my red Stadler FLIRT, slight different building used on the white-blue pattern and at the front of the train. Of course, this train has direction dependent front/tail lights and indoor lights, too, using LEGO PF-LEDs. The two Stadler FLIRTs can be coupled together, in this case the front/tail lights can be turned of between the units. Leave your comments here!

Making them white wasn't a hard thing to do, I added 1×1 red brick with stud on one side bricks on the red 1×1 bricks on the side, they are holding white tiles. But because of this I had to do something with the seats inside, placing them on stud 2-3 and 6-7 didn't fit anymore, I solved this problem using jumper plates and tiles with center studs. Check it on this picture: https://img1.indafoto.hu/4/9/2269_99ef04eb612baf0e86671a5109e22154/26776107_c27188d00d799c8b1323e0364a556e7c_xl.jpg

If you have the money for it, then you should.

On the latest exhibiton I participated there was a double horizon express, with two 9V train motors under each power car. However there was double pulling power with the two motors, the train wheels were spinning, the train accelarated really bad. If you can have some, put train wieghts to the power car (or the battery box): http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=73090a Also rebuilding the unpowered bogie will help a lot.

Finally my red Stadler FLIRT (showed here years before) won't be modified anymore, couple of days ago I added the last electric part to it, two pieces of PF polarity reversal bricks (the pantograph is a new design, too): This polarity reversals goes for the front/tail lights, using them enables to switch front/tail lights individually, or turn them off, if two Stadler FLIRT units are coupled together. As at this point I won't modify it anymore, here is the final circuit diagram of the train: The train is 1.6 metres long and its weight is around 4 kilograms - four train motors needed to make it fast. To spare some cost, two 9V train motors give the power supply to two PF train motors. All the indoor details are built, seats in real arrangement, color scheme of the floor, and the side wall of the train is red on the outer side, white is on the inner side (white indoor walls help a lot to make the indoor lights more noticeable). Here is a picture of the indoor light in work: As i finalize the LDD-file of the train, I'll share it with Train Tech community.

Nice part usage here. I like the idea building the battery box around and not buying a thing which fits in color, too. Your solution will be acceptible for other MOCs not being red or DBG. However you solved the color problem, you created a new one, with the almost 6W body maybe you can try to build the cab part in seven wide. To make the windows on the other end in 7W will enable you to use more SNOT technique on this loco.

It's always interesting to see something made by a different person. I like the monorail-style of this train. This kind of articulation was made to fit all the requirements for the first tender that Stadler participated: requirement was for the vechile to be at least 66% low-floor, with wide doors and low entrance height, that's why they put all the engines to the center part of the train, keeping the other parts low-floor. They didn't stop to use this design, they're still selling GTWs and new FLIRT made for Estonia use something similar solution, but on Jacobs boogies: http://i49.tinypic.com/2irx7hf.jpg Here is my LEGO GTW 2/6 designed for narrow-gauge: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=76007

Great MOC, I'm happy to see that there are other not afraid of a little modification. To make your loco 0-6-0, use 7L (maybe 8L needed) long technic axles in the PF-train motor, put on the wheels, than connect the axles with a 7L long technic THIN liftarm, then close the original axles with these http://img.bricklink.com/P/9/4265c.gif To the center hole of the 7L technic liftarm put a 2L axle, to the inner part comes the third (centre) wheel), stabilizied by the hole on the PF-motor's side, closed from the outer side similar to the original axles. These center wheels won't be driven, but it will look like as a 0-6-0 engine.